Two experiments were conducted to investigate how performance on a primary rock climbing task is affected by the inclusion of a secondary word memory task. In Experiment 1, twelve experienced rock climbers completed a dual traverse climb and word memory task, with participants’ performance analysed relative to their single task performance (climbing alone and word memory alone). Participants’ climbing efficiency and word recall were significantly lower in the dual-task condition. Experiment 2 examined the effects of emotional content on climbing performance. Fifteen experienced rock climbers completed two dual-tasks, in which they were asked to recall negatively valenced or neutral words. Climbing efficiency, climbing distance, and word recall were all significantly lower in the dual-task conditions, relative to the single-task conditions. Climbing efficiency and climbing distance were also significantly lower in the negative word dual-task, relative to the neutral word dual-task. The findings from these two experiments have important human factors implications for occupational settings that require climbing-like operations, including search and rescue and fire-fighting.

Rock climbing is thought to rely upon the interaction of various performance components, and has previously been described as a complex multi-faceted sport. It has been suggested that psychological aspects of performance, such as task perception and the interaction of resulting pre-climb anxieties, contribute greatly to the physiological responses and the overall performance during ascent. However, research which seeks to investigate both psychological and physiological responses during specific bouts of rock climbing are few in number. This thesis attempts to contribute to the novel yet limited body of field based psychophysological research relating to rock climbing. To this end, the studies contained within this thesis investigated psychological and physiological responses as a result of difficult on-sight rock climbing. Elaborating upon previous research, additonal factors which are thought to influence these responses were explored. More specifically, differences in responses between ability groups, style of ascent, and route type were investigated. In study one, differences in psychological and physiological responses with respect to ability level and ascent style were investigated, during a single on-sight ascent. Seventy-two climbers were split into ability groups defined as lower-grade, intermediate, advanced and elite based on self-reported on-sight grades (Ewbank) of ≤17, 18-20, 21-24 and ≥ 25 respectively. Each climber attempted an on-sight ascent of a designated test route set on an indoor artificial climbing wall. A separate test route was set for each ability group which targeted their self-reported ability with respect to best on-sight. Participants were randomly assigned to either a lead or top-rope ascent and climbers were not informed of their style of ascent until 15 min prior to climbing. Responses to the climbing task were measured pre, during, and post-climb using a number of psychological and physiological markers. In total fifty-two participants successfully completed their on-sight ascents, and data for successful ascents were analysed and compared. Pre-climb variables were considered together in order to investigate pre-climb state, more specifically levels of anxiety, prior to ascent. Results indicated that there were no significant differences for grouped pre-climb variables with respect to ascent style. These results suggest that irrespective of ascent style, successful climbers exhibited similar psychophysiological responses prior to attempting an on-sight ascent. Furthermore, this trend was replicated across all ability groups. These findings were thought to be indicative of the high demand and level of uncerainty imposed by the on-sight condition of ascent, lending support to previous suggestion that an on-sight ascent induces the highest anxiety response. During the climb, HR and were measured and averaged across the entirety of the ascent. When expressed as a percentage of and the average HR and responses during ascent were found to be comparable across ability groups. As such, all ability groups appeared to utilise similar fractions of maximal capacity, with elite climbers successfully ascending a route up to eight difficulty grades harder than those of lower ability, whilst still performing at the same workload intensity. It would appear that oxygen uptake during rock climbing may not be directly related to difficulty or personal ability. A technical advantage, personal climbing style, and possible physiological adaptations may be contributors to more strategic and efficient ascents resulting in the capacity to climb at higher grades of difficulty. The second study presented within this thesis was comprised of two phases of investigation; (1) to investigate whether psychological and physiological responses to competition-style climbing differed with respect to ability level, and (2) to investigate potential psychological and physiological differences based on route type and outcome (success and failure). In phase 1 of study two, intermediate, advanced and elite climbers attempted an lead on-sight ascent of a competition-style route which increased in difficulty as the climber progressed. The route was set with the intention of being just beyond the upper limits of the elite climbers self-reported best on-sight ability (~26 Ewbank). This was done in order to ensure that a fall from the route was highly likely, even for the elite climbers. All climbers failed to successfuly ascend the test route and as such all climbed to the point of failure resulting in a fall. The results obtained both prior to, and during ascent suggest that the intermediate and advanced climbers in the current study may have been limited by technical ability as opposed to physical exhaustion, or increased levels of anxiety. Elite climbers were to be able to maintain a more sustained physical effort during the more difficult phases of the climb. This appeared to be reflected in post-climb blood lactate concentration and ratings of task demand with respect to both physical demand and effort. As such it may be that elite climbers are more accustomed to maximal effort and demonstrate an increased tolerance to the higher exercise intensity required during more difficult ascents. In the second phase of study two the psychological and physiological responses of climbers in a competitive setting obtained in phase 1, were compared with those exhibited by participants during both successful and unsuccessful lead on-sight ascents in study one. The aim of study two phase 2 was to determine whether the responses of successful climbers differed from those who succeeded by reaching the top of a route, and performances in a competitive context where success is denoted by the distance achieved by a climbers on their ascent. The main findings in this instance were that although there were no significant differences observed between categories of ascent (successful, unsuccessful and competition) for grouped pre-climb variables, trends in CSAI-2R responses indicated high cognitive anxiety coupled with lower self-confidence prior to unsuccessful ascents. As such it may be that self-confidence acts as a buffer in moderating success in rock climbing, demonstrating the role of positive emotions and their impact upon performance as opposed to the detrimental effect of the negative. A second finding of this study was that there appeared to be a differing HR- relationship based on ascent category. Modest increases in were shown for all ascents, irrespective of ability level. A plateau in response was accompanied by a similar plateau in HR response during successful ascents, yet HR was shown to increase in a linear fashion until point of failure during unsuccessful ascents. It is possible that these findings highlight the presence of a climbing specific limitation.

This thesis examines the multiple meanings attached to risk by a small group of climbers based in the North of England. The study is anchored, empirically in sustained observational fieldwork, and in-depth interviews with adult subjects (9 females aged 22-77, 14 males aged 20-70). In completing this thesis, I believe I have made an original contribution to knowledge in three areas. In re-imagining risk in climbing, I argue that climbers do not participate in climbing because of a desire to take risks, rather, they make every effort to assess, manage and control risks when climbing. In reconceptualising risk in climbing, I present a conceptual model derived from the interviewees’ accounts of risk. This model situates risk in climbing with risk in everyday life. The basis of my third original contribution to knowledge lies in the relationship between risk and identity. The interviewees differentiated between safe and unsafe climbers through reference to embodied climbing practices. The way a climber in this study assessed and managed risk marked them as a safe climber or conversely an unsafe climber. Furthermore, the data revealed both a gendered and an age-related dimension to the relationship between risk and identity. The desire to retain the identity of a climber over time was so strong that older climbers reported modifying their practices to sustain their status as a member of the insider group. In addition, the female interviewees described how perceived family responsibilities mediated membership of the insider group, and their identity as a safe and qualified climber. The female climbers in this study described how such responsibilities led them, like older climbers, to draw back from the edge. These findings have implications beyond the sport of rock climbing and its participants. This research has the potential to inform and enhance our appreciation of risk in other lifestyle sports and moreover, whilst there is a tendency to distinguish between lifestyle and traditional sports, there may be some application of the account of risk presented here to an exploration of risk in traditional sports. The arguments presented in this study also contribute to an understanding or risk more generally. A key conclusion from this study is that risk is best understood where the meanings attached to it are derived from individuals’ everyday lived experience and relatedly where risk is situated within the broadest context of their lives. Finally, the data reported here suggests that risk activities and risk-taking should be explored in relation to an individual’s perceived identity and crucially, the significance of risk for the construction of that identity.

Background Handgrip strength claims to reflect general strength and correlates with tests of strength, particularly to the lower extremity. Few studies examine correlations between Jamar and the upper body and mainly focus on populations with lower strength. Climbers were assumed to have higher levels of strength. Purpose The purpose was to investigate grip strength, 1RM pull-up and 1RM leg extension in climbers in Uppsala and examine the relationship between grip strength and the 1RM tests to further evaluate grip strength as a measure of general strength. Method The study is a descriptive cross-sectional study testing 25 climbers. Jamar, 3-5RM pull-up and 3-5RM leg extension are done in succession with protocols for standardisation and 1RM is calculated based on Epley's formula. The descriptive measurements are then analyzed and put in correlation.  Results The relationship between 1RM pull-up and grip strength was moderately strong and statistically significant, r = 0.597 (p = 0.002). The relationship between 1RM leg extension and grip strength was moderately strong and statistically significant r = 0.446 (p = 0.026). Conclusion Handgrip strength measured with Jamar in climbers doesn’t deviate from the general population. A moderately strong relationship was found between Jamar and the 1RM tests. Further studies should put Jamar in relation to different tests of muscle strength in populations with varying levels of strength to evaluate Jamar as a measure of general muscle strength. Protocols for standardization of Jamar needs to be further developed. / Bakgrund Handgreppsstyrka hävdas kunna avspegla generell muskelstyrka och har visats korrelera med olika test av maximal styrka, i synnerhet i nedre extremitet. Få studier undersöker samband till den övre extremiteten och fokuserar uteslutande på populationer med låg muskelstyrka. Klättrare antogs initialt ha högre muskelstyrka i samtliga test. Syfte Syftet med denna studie var att hos klättrare i Uppsala undersöka greppstyrkan respektive 1RM pull-ups och 1RM benspark samt att studera respektive samband mellan greppstyrka och 1RM-testen för vidare undersöka handgreppsstyrka mätt med Jamar som ett mått på generell muskelstyrka.  Metod Studien är en deskriptiv tvärsnittsstudie som testar 25 klättrare. Jamar, 3-5RM i pull-up samt 3-5RM i benspark testas i succession utifrån standardiseringsprotokoll och 1RM, den maximala vikt som en repetition kan utföras med beräknas sedan utifrån Epleys formel. De olika deskriptiva måtten analyseras samt ställs i korrelation till varandra.  Resultat Sambandet mellan 1RM-pull-up och maximal handgreppsstyrka mätt med Jamar var måttligt starkt och statistiskt signifikant, r=0.597 (p=0.002). Sambandet mellan 1RM benspark och maximal handgreppsstyrka mätt med Jamar var måttligt starkt och statistiskt signifikant r=0.446 (p=0.026). Slutsats Handgreppsstyrka mätt med Jamar hos klättrare avviker inte från den generella populationen. Handgreppstyrkan hade ett måttligt stark samband till både 1RM benspark och 1RM pull-up. Vidare studier krävs som ställer Jamar i relation till olika muskeltester och styrkenivåer för vidare utvärdera mätresultat från Jamar som ett mått på generell muskelstyrka. Standardiseringsprotokoll för Jamar behöver vidareutvecklas.

No description available.

Access Points explores the different relationships that humans have to land, focusing on the various ways that the area known as the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge is used, appreciated, and preserved by disparate groups. The natural beauty of this Wildlife Refuge and its striking appearance amidst encircling plains makes it a popular destination for many groups of people, including the local rock-climbing community and generations of indigenous peoples whose connection with this land is as deep as it is longstanding. While climbing organizations have long had to negotiate access and rules regarding climbing within the park, members of the Kiowa community negotiate a much different relationship to a natural area that is now managed by the United States government. These disparate voices, identities, and ways of thinking about land all impact the modern-day Wildlife Refuge in terms of its appearance, individuals' access to the land, and the conservation efforts happening there.

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The main objective of the thesis is to work out the proposal that should develop the rock-climbing as a tourist activity in the region of Adršpach and Teplice nad Metují. The thesis focused on the situational analysis of the destination which uncovered a lot of conflicts. Based on the results of the situational analysis of the destination (especially SWOT) the strategic objectives, strategy and the next steps were worked out. These measures should solve the mentioned conflicts in the given territory. The main focus of the thesis is to propose the new product aimed at organization of the rock-climbing triathlon of couples in the given region.

No description available.

Thesis (Ph. D.)--University of Connecticut, 2003. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves 104-112). Also available online (PDF file) by a subscription to the set or by purchasing the individual file.