Shippagan Gully is a tidal inlet located near Shippagan, New Brunswick on the Gulf of Saint Lawrence. It is a particularly complex tidal inlet due to the fact that its tidal lagoon transects the Acadian peninsula and is open to the Bay des Chaleurs at its opposite end. As such, two open boundaries with phase lagged tidal cycles drive flow through the inlet, alternating direction with each tide and reaching velocities in excess of 2m/s. Hydrodynamic and morphological processes at the site are further complicated by the presence of a highly variable wave climate. Presently, shipping practices through the inlet are limited due to continual sedimentation within and immediately offshore from Shippagan Gully. As such, an extensive field study, desktop analysis and numerical and morphological modeling of Shippagan Gully have been conducted in order to provide guidance for future works. Modeling was conducted using the CMS-Wave and CMS-Flow numerical modeling system.

Shippagan Gully is a tidal inlet located near Shippagan, New Brunswick on the Gulf of Saint Lawrence. It is a particularly complex tidal inlet due to the fact that its tidal lagoon transects the Acadian peninsula and is open to the Bay des Chaleurs at its opposite end. As such, two open boundaries with phase lagged tidal cycles drive flow through the inlet, alternating direction with each tide and reaching velocities in excess of 2m/s. Hydrodynamic and morphological processes at the site are further complicated by the presence of a highly variable wave climate. Presently, shipping practices through the inlet are limited due to continual sedimentation within and immediately offshore from Shippagan Gully. As such, an extensive field study, desktop analysis and numerical and morphological modeling of Shippagan Gully have been conducted in order to provide guidance for future works. Modeling was conducted using the CMS-Wave and CMS-Flow numerical modeling system.

A numerical model based on one-line theory is developed to evaluate the wind wave driven longshore sediment transport rate and shoreline change. Model performs wave transformation from deep water through the surf zone and computes the breaking parameters. The formula of longshore sediment transport rate used in the numerical model is selected as a result of comparative studies with the similar expressions and the field measurements. Offshore breakwater module of the numerical model is developed to compute the change of shoreline behind single or multiple offshore breakwaters. The validity of the numerical model was confirmed by comparing model results with the shoreline change given within the sheltered zone behind the offshore breakwaters. A series of offshore breakwaters are hypothetically proposed for a case study where a series of groins were constructed whose numerical model results qualitatively matched well with the field measurements. The results of the influences of offshore breakwaters on the shoreline predicted by the model are discussed comparatively with the case study.

In this study the incipient motion of coarse solitary particles having different specific weights and shapes was investigated. A tilting flume of rectangular cross-section having a net working length of 12 m was used through the experiments. The slope of the channel and the discharge in the channel are the two basic variable parameters that determine the initiation of motion. Particles made of cement and mixture of cement and iron dust in certain ratios were used in the experiments with an obstructing element of various heights right behind the particles. Dimensionless hydraulic parameters determined from theoretical analysis were related to each other. Velocity profiles over the flow depths were measured and flow conditions corresponding to critical conditions were evaluated in terms of critical velocities and shear velocities. The findings of this study were compared with the results of similar studies given in the literature.

In this study, a qualitative and comparative investigation on sediment transport equations used in prediction of rserevoir sedimentation is presented. 32 sediment transport equations, which are selected by literature review on sand and gravel size ranges, grouped according to the median particle sizes on which their derivation based. In order to compare these equations computer program DELTA, which is a one dimensional simulation program developed by Graf and Altinakar (1998) for the prediction of delta formation in resrvoirs, is used. Computer simulation is performed within each group of sediment transport equations in order to determine the most suitable equation for corresponding median diameter of sediment particles. 8 of the equations gave simulation results that are in good agreement with average values related to delta deposition extent, height and location in the reservoir. The effects of river slope change and median diameter change on delta deposition also investigated and simulation results are compared with previous model studies.

Nearshore processes on barred beaches are studied with a process-based numerical model. The two major goals of the study are to expand the body of knowledge about nearshore processes on barred beaches gaining a better understanding of the physical mechanisms affecting bar migration events and to enhance the numerical model in order to accomplish realistic simulations of bar migration events on storm time scales. The numerical model is used to study the effect of physical processes on the hydrodynamics and morphodynamics in the nearshore environment. The numerical model system consists of a linear spectral refraction-diffraction model, REF/DIF S, a quasi-3D nearshore circulation module, SHORECIRC, energetics-based sediment transport models, and a morphological evolution model. A laboratory experiment with an offshore bar migration case followed by an onshore bar migration case is used for modeling purposes and verifications. A number of enhancements are made to the wave and circulation modules of the numerical model system specifically for simulations on barred beaches. The model modifications and enhancements are: a combined breaking wave parameter with a spatial variation in the wave model, a method accounting for breaking wave persistence in the wave model, a method accounting for the new breaker roller lag in the wave model, the dynamic pressure component in the radiation stress forcing, a roller contribution with different depth variation options for the short wave forcing in the circulation model, wave height instead of water depth as the turbulent length scale in the eddy viscosity calculations in the circulation model, and a slope term for the default sediment transport formula. The effect of surface shape parameter and the roller face angle on radiation stress and mean water level predictions are investigated. In reality, the organized wave energy is transferred to roller development over a transition distance and the roller does not immediately contribute to the radiation stresses; therefore, showing the importance of the roller lag mechanism for mean water level predictions. The cross-shore variation of the vertical momentum balance is studied to observe the variation of forcing agents of the undertow current. The cross-shore pressure gradient is the most dominant forcing term affecting the depth structure of the undertow current. The effect of different depth variations of the roller contribution to the short wave forcing on the undertow current is investigated. The mechanism accounting for breaking wave persistence and the mechanism accounting for the roller lag are shown to be important for predictions of the undertow currents on barred beaches. The skewed wave orbital velocities are introduced to the linear wave model by an empirical parametrization method and are found to contribute strongly to the onshore bar migration. The enhancements made to the wave dissipation and roller are found to significantly affect the predicted migration of the bar as well as the maintainance of the trough.

The lower Da-An River in western Taiwan was uplifted ~10 during the 1999 Mw 7.6 Chi-Chi earthquake, resulting in a 20- to 30-m-deep bedrock gorge. However, the amount of coseismic displacement along the channel bed does not fully explain the resulting bedrock channel incision. Using a series of aerial photographs, digital terrain models (DEM), and real-time kinematic global positioning system (RTK GPS) surveys, we characterized knickpoint retreat and fluvial incision in the Da-An River gorge. We also analyzed discharge and precipitation data and collected measurements of rock strength and joint plane orientations to understand the climatic, lithological, and structural influence on the evolution of the actively incising gorge. Two stages of fluvial incision and knickpoint migration are identified in the gorge following surface uplift during the Chi-Chi earthquake. From 1999 to 2004, 3 to 5 m of alluvium was removed from the channel bed, followed by 3 to 4 m of bedrock channel incision. The knickpoint generated immediately after the earthquake stayed where the uplift occurred at this time. Since 2005, the channel bed has lowered rapidly with local incision rate as high as 15 m/yr in terms of knickpoint migration. The average knickpoint migration rate over the period 2005 to 2009 was 238 m/yr; total upstream migration from the location of knickpoint formation was 1190 m. While tectonic uplift formed the knickpoint and set the stage for channel incision, climate played a critical role in accelerating the fluvial response to coseismic displacement. More than 20 m of bedrock channel incision and 1180 m knickpoint migration occurred during the post-2004 typhoon seasons (May-October). Based on repeat surveys of the Da-An River longitudinal profile and analysis of precipitation and discharge data, we suggest that a discharge threshold of 1200 to 2600 m³/s is required to initiate upstream knickpoint migration. However, once the threshold is exceeded, bedding dip becomes the primary control on rates and patterns of knickpoint propagation. Rotation occurred in a hinge zone where the bedding dips change from horizontal to upstream-dipping, while replacement was observed in the strata dipping upstream. The highest knickpoint migration rates (> 300 m/yr) were recorded in flat-lying, horizontal strata (< 10º) where parallel retreat was the dominate process. Overall, the knickpoint propagation followed the process of replacement behavior, in which the height of knickpoint decreases while migrating upstream. Thus, while tectonic processes set the initial conditions for knickpoint propagation in the Da-An River, the response time of the fluvial system to this forcing is strongly dependent on climate and local structure.

Dredging is often conducted to maintain authorized depths in coastal navigation channels. Placement of dredged sediment in the form of nearshore berms is becoming an increasingly popular option for disposal. Compared to direct beach placement, nearshore berms have fewer environmental impacts such as shore birds and turtle nesting, and have more lenient sediment compatibility restrictions. Understanding the potential morphological and sedimentological evolution is crucial to the design of a nearshore berm. Furthermore, the artificial perturbation generated by the berm installation provides a unique opportunity to understand the equilibrium process of coastal morphodynamics. Matanzas Pass and Bowditch Point, located on the northern tip of Estero Island in west-central Florida were dredged in October 2009. The dredged material was placed approximately 600 ft offshore of Fort Myers Beach and 1.5 miles southeast of Matanzas Pass, in the form of an artificial berm. Time-series surveys and sediment sampling were conducted semi-annually in order to quantify sedimentological characteristics and morphological changes within the first year after construction of the berm. The artificial berm at Fort Myers Beach is composed mainly of fine sand. Patches of mud were found throughout the study area, with the highest concentrations being in the trough landward of the berm, and offshore southeast of the berm area. The highest concentration of carbonates was found in the swash zone, as well as at the landward toe of the berm, which coincides with the coarsest sediment. The overall mud content of the berm is lower than that of the dredged sediment, thus indicating a coarsening of the berm over time. The reduction in fines as compared to the original dredged sedimet could also indicate a selective transport mechanism that moves finer material offshore, and coarser material landward, a desirable trend for artificial berm nourishment. During the course of the first year, the berm migrated landward and increased in elevation. Onshore migration occurred mostly within the first 6 months. Along with onshore migration, the shape of the berm changed from a symmetrical bell curve to an asymmetrical shape with a steep landward slope. There is no clear spatial trend of volume change alongshore within the berm area, indicating that sediment transport is mostly cross-shore dominated. A salient was formed landward of the northern portion of the berm. Several gaps were created during berm construction due to dredging and placement techniques. These dynamic gaps are likely maintained by rip currents through them. This study showed that the Fort Myers Beach berm is active, due to its landward migration during the first year after construction.

The two-dimensional depth-averaged shallow water equations have attracted considerable attentions as a practical way to solve flows with free surface. Compared to three-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations, the shallow water equations give essentially the same results at much lower cost. Solving the shallow water equations by the Godunov-type finite volume method is a newly emerging area. The Godunov-type finite volume method is good at capturing the discontinuous fronts in numerical solutions. This makes the method suitable for solving the system of shallow water equations. In this dissertation, both the shallow water equations and the Godunov-type finite volume method are described in detail. A new surface flow routing method is proposed in the dissertation. The method does not limit the shallow water equations to open channels but extends the shallow water equations to the whole domain. Results show that the new routing method is a promising method for prediction of watershed runoff. The method is also applied to turbulence modeling of free surface flow. The κ - ε turbulence model is incorporated into the system of shallow water equations. The outcomes prove that the turbulence modeling is necessary for calculation of free surface flow. At last part of the dissertation, a total load sediment transport model is described and the model is tested against 1D and 2D laboratory experiments. In summary, the proposed numerical method shows good potential in solving free surface flow problems. And future development will be focusing on river meandering simulation, non-equilibrium sediment transport and surface flow - subsurface flow interaction.

The complex interaction between flow, vegetation and sediment drives the never settled changes of riverine system. Vegetation intercepts rainfall, adds resistance to surface flow, and facilitates infiltration. The magnitude and timing of flood flow are closely related to the watershed vegetation coverage. In the meantime, flood flow can transport a large amount of sediment resulting in bank erosion, channel degradation, and channel pattern change. As climate changes, future flood frequency will change with more intense rainfalls. However, the quantitative simulation of flood flow in vegetated channel and the influence of climate change on flood frequency, especially for the arid and semi-arid Southwest, remain challenges to engineers and scientists. Therefore, this research consists of two main parts: simulate unsteady flow and sediment transport in vegetated channel network, and quantify the impacts of climate change on flood frequency. A one-dimensional model for simulating flood routing and sediment transport over mobile alluvium in a vegetated channel network was developed. The modified St. Venant equations together with the governing equations for suspended sediment and bed load transport were solved simultaneously to obtain flow properties and sediment transport rate. The Godunov-type finite volume method is employed to discretize the governing equations. Then, the Exner equation was solved for bed elevation change. Since sediment transport is non-equilibrium when bed is degrading or aggrading, a recovery coefficient for suspended sediment and an adaptation length for bed load transport were used to quantify the differences between equilibrium and non-equilibrium sediment transport rate. The influence of vegetation on floodplain and main channel was accounted for by adjusting resistance terms in the momentum equations for flow field. A procedure to separate the grain resistance from the total resistance was proposed and implemented to calculate sediment transport rate. The model was tested by a flume experiment case and an unprecedented flood event occurred in the Santa Cruz River, Tucson, Arizona, in July 2006. Simulated results of flow discharge and bed elevation changes showed satisfactory agreements with the measurements. The impacts of vegetation density on sediment transport and significance of non-equilibrium sediment transport model were accounted for by the model. The two-dimensional surface flow model, called CHRE2D, was improved by considering the vegetation influence and then applied to Santa Cruz River Watershed (SCRW) in the Southern Arizona. The parameters in the CHRE2D model were calibrated by using the rainfall event in July 15th, 1999. Hourly precipitation data from a Regional Climate Model (RCM) called Weather Research and Forecasting model (WRF), for three periods, 1990-2000, 2031-2040 and 2071-2079, were used to quantify the impact of climate change on the magnitude and frequency of flood for the Santa Cruz River Watershed (SCRW) in the Southern Arizona. Precipitation outputs from RCM-WRF model were bias-corrected using observed gridded precipitation data for three periods before directly used in the watershed model. The watershed model was calibrated using the rainfall event in July 15th, 1999. The calibrated watershed model was applied to SCRW to simulate surface flow routing for the selected three periods. Simulated annual and daily maximum discharges are analyzed to obtain future flood frequency curves. Results indicate that flood discharges for different return periods are increased: the discharges of 100-year and 200-year return period are increased by 3,000 and 5,000 cfs, respectively.