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This master’s thesis deals with analytical and numerical description of surface gravity waves. Wave theories and their influence on water particle movement is described in the theoretical part of the thesis. Water particle moves in the same direction as wave propagation and this phenomenon is called Stokes drift. It has a significant influence on sediment transport and floating particle movement at water free surface. The experimental part consists of wave profile monitoring and water particle tracking in a wave flume with wave generator and beach model. The experimental results are compared with numerical simulation performed in the ANSYS Fluent software. Finally, the wave profiles obtained from simulation are compared with experimental wave profiles extracted by digital image processing.

Anthropogenic changes to the landscape, storm events and sea level rise are contributing to the erosion of beaches leading to an increase of the sediment load in near shore marine environments. Palm Beach, Florida is host to unique near shore hardbottom habitats. These areas are distinct from the vast expanses of surrounding sediments and play and important role of habitat and shelter for many different species. In this study, remotely sensed images from 2000-2015 were used to look at the movement of sediment and how it contributes to exposure rates of near shore hardbottom habitats in Palm Beach, Florida and how these factors affect the benthic community. GIS was used to determine areas of hardbottom with high exposure (exposed in >60% of aerial images), medium exposure (40-60%), and low exposure ( I strived to determine if one can detect a successional relationship of benthic communities in a dynamic environment with annual mapping. I also examined if areas with higher exposure rates have more complex successive communities than those with lower exposure rates, and what implications this has on near shore benthic communities. In situ surveys conducted at 117 sites determined the community structure (corals, octocorals, macroalgae, and hydroids). This study confirmed that periodic mapping was successful in identifying hardbottom burial and exposure, which fluctuate both spatially and temporally. This periodic mapping along with manual delineation did identify hardbottom burials and exposures that fluctuate between years and relate to benthic community differences. The near shore hardbottom coral reef communities aligned with the observed exposure categories with the greater coral species richness and octocoral morphologies found at sites classified as highly exposed. Statistical analyses showed differences in communities shallower and deeper than three meters’ depth. Increasing the frequency of imagery captures and in situ observation would further increase our comprehension of the metrics of hardbottom exposures in reference to community structure.

Many numeric models simulate the transport of sediment within rivers and streams. Engineers use such models to monitor the overall condition of a river or stream and to analyze the impact that the aggradation and degradation of sediment has on the stability of bridge piers and other features within a stretch of a river or stream. A model developed by the Federal Highway Administration, FST2DH, was recently modified to include the simulation of sediment movement within a channel. The tools for modeling sediment movement with FST2DH remain unproven. This thesis examines the sediment capabilities of FST2DH. It evaluates the sediment results for reasonableness and compares the results to those obtained from a sediment transport model developed by the Army Corps of Engineers, SED2D WES. Resulting concentrations from another program created by the Army Corps of Engineers, SAMwin, provide additional data comparison for FST2DH sediment solutions. Several test cases for laboratory flumes give additional insight into the model's functionality. Finally, this thesis suggests further enhancements for the sediment capabilities of the FST2DH model and provides direction for future research of the sediment transport capabilities of FST2DH. Results show that FST2DH appropriately models sediment movement in channels with clear-water and equilibrium transport rate inflow conditions. Transport formulas found to be functional include the Engelund—Hansen, Yang sand and gravel, and Meyer-Peter—Mueller equations. FST2DH has difficulty modeling channels with user-specified inflow concentrations or transport rates, models with very small particles, models containing hydraulic jumps, and models with small elements. The test cases that successfully run to completion provide appropriate patterns of scour and deposition. Other trends in the results further verify the functionality of many of the sediment transport options in FST2DH.