Le littoral méditerranéen oriental du Maroc compris entre l’oued Kiss et le Cap des Trois Fourches s’étire sur près de 120 km. Ce littoral, objet de notre étude, est caractérisé par des unités morphologiques variées : embouchure, baies, lagune, plages, flèches sableuses, tombolo, falaises (vives et mortes). C’est une zone particulièrement intéressante pour l’étude et la compréhension de l’influence des processus naturels et anthropiques sur la dynamique sédimentaire. L’augmentation des activités industrielles et l’urbanisation croissante ont conduit ces dernières années à la construction de nombreux ouvrages le long de la côte, conduisant à des modifications dans la distribution des sédiments et à une dégradation de l’environnement naturel de certaines plages. L’étude sédimentologique couplée à l’analyse des photos aériennes de plusieurs missions a permis de caractériser les différents environnements de ce littoral, de reconstituer la dynamique des différents environnements sédimentaires et de souligner les facteurs, les processus hydrologiques et hydrographiques qui contrôlent ce littoral méditerranéen. Les analyses minéralogiques, en particulier l’étude des minéraux lourds, nous ont fourni des indications sur l’origine des sédiments, la nature du bassin versant fournisseur, également ont permis de mettre évidence deux secteurs morphosédimentaires de part et d’autre de l’embouchure de la Moulouya. Á l’Est, on trouve un secteur en démaigrissement et un secteur en accrétion est situé dans la partie Ouest de l’embouchure de la Moulouya. L'évolution morphodynamique de chacun de ces deux secteurs résulte des interactions entre les facteurs naturels et l’impact des aménagements réalisés sur cette portion de littoral / The Eastern Mediterranean coastline of Morocco ranging between Kiss and the Cap of the Three Fourches is stretched along nearly 120 km. This littoral, the object of our study, is characterized by varied morphological units: mouth, bays, lagoon, beaches, sand, tombolo, cliffs (formed and dead). It is a particularly interesting zone for the study and the comprehension of the influence of the natural and anthropic processes and sedimentary dynamics. During the last few years the increase in the industrial activities and the increasing urbanization led to the construction of many works along the coast, leading to modifications in the distribution of the sediments and to a degradation of the natural environment of certain beaches. The sedimentological study coupled with the analysis of aerial photographs (of several missions) made it possible to characterize the various environments of this littoral, to reconstitute the dynamics of the various sedimentary environments and to underline the factors, the hydrological and hydrographic processes which control this Mediterranean coastline. The mineralogical analysis, the study of heavy minerals in particular, provided indications on the origin of the sediments, the nature of the catchment supplier area and made it possible to put two morphosedimentary sectors obvious on both sides of the mouth of Moulouya. The morphodynamic evolution of each one of these two sectors results from the interactions between the natural factors and the impact from the installations carried out on this portion from littoral

O estudo de três testemunhos rasos (até 2,5m de profundidade) coletados na região de Jaguaruna, litoral centro-sul de Santa Catarina, permitiu reconstituir parte da história de evolução sedimentar holocênica na área. Para isso, foi feita a análise integrada de quatro tipos de variáveis: sedimentológicas, diatomológicas, palinológicas e geoquímicas (Ctotal, Ntotal, 13C e 15N). Os dados de micropaleontologia foram tratados por métodos de estatística mutivariada (análise fatorial de correspondência, análise de componentes principais e classificação ascendente hierárquica), que evidenciaram agrupamentos significativos entre os microfósseis e, desse modo, auxiliaram nas interpretações. A ca. 5000 anos AP, a área de estudo deveria ser ocupada por um conjunto de lagunas interconectadas, cuja existência pôde ser atestada pelos sedimentos de fundo lagunar, na base de um dos testemunhos, em zona atualmente colonizada por mata de restinga. A ligação da laguna com o mar, nesta época, é verificada pela presença de diatomáceas marinhas e pelo sinal isotópico e elementar da matéria orgânica preservada nos sedimentos, indicativo de origem algácea, com valores de 13C de fitoplâncton marinho. A perda da conexão da laguna com o oceano ocorreu em diferentes momentos nos três testemunhos, sendo o último registro de desconexão da laguna observado a ca. 2740-2370 anos cal AP. Variações nas assembléis de diatomáceas no registro da fase lagunar (de 5500 até 2740-2370 anos cal AP) indicaram pelo menos dois períodos de mudanças maiores na salinidade da paleolaguna. Estes períodos puderam ser comparados a dados de paleoprecipitação, publicados em trabalhos anteriores, obtidos para o Estado de Santa Catarina. Observou-se boa correlação entre períodos com maior precipitação e períodos de diminuição na salinidade das águas da laguna, o que seria relacionado à sua diluição por maior aporte fluvial, sem excluir, no entanto, a possibilidade de menor influência marinha devido a dinâmica de abertura e fechamento das conexões da laguna com o oceano. O registro da vegetação através da analise palinológica auxiliou na elaboração do modelo evolutivo da área e permitiu reconstituir parte da história da vegetação no contexto de preenchimento da bacia lagunar. O desenvolvimento da vegetação de restinga em áreas antes ocupadas por vegetação característica de borda lagunar reforçaria a idéia de progradação das fácies costeiras assoreando por completo a paleolaguna na área. A síntese dos dados palinológicos entre os três testemunhos permite interpretar que, pelo menos desde 4000 anos cal AP, a vegetação na área de estudo não sofreu grandes modificações, o que sugere clima semelhante ao presente. A análise integrada dos diferentes indicadores paloambientais sugere que a dinâmica sedimentar deve ser a maior responsável pelas mudanças observadas nos três testemunhos, com evolução dos ecossistemas ligada, principalmente, a variações no regime e substrato deposicionais, relacionadas à progradação costeira. / Sediments from three cores collected in Jaguaruna (south Brazilian coast, Santa Catarina state) were analyzed, in order to reconstruct the Holocene sedimentary evolution of the area. The palaeoenvironmental reconstruction was based on microfossil proxies (diatoms, pollen and spores), analysis of sedimentary organic matter (13C, 15N and C/N ratios), and sedimentological analysis. From at least 5000 cal yr AP, the site was occupied by a system of interconnected lagoons, whose existence is verified in the core sediments by the record of paleolagoon sediments in area occupied by restinga forest nowadays. The existence of this lagoon and of its connection with the sea is indicated by the presence of marine diatoms and by the isotopic and elementary composition of the sedimentary organic matter, which is indicative of algal origin, with 13C values of marine phytoplankton. The end of the connection between sea and lagoon was registered in different moments in the three cores and the last record of disconnection is found in ca. 2740-2370 cal yr AP. The variations of the diatom assemblages from the lagoonal phase (between 5000 and 2740-2370 cal yr AP) indicated at least two periods of major changes in the paleolagoon salinity. These periods could be compared with the published paleoprecipitation data for the Santa Catarina state, which showed a good correlation between higher precipitation and reduction in the lagoon water salinity. This correlation would be related to dilution of water salinity by the greater fluvial discharges. However, it can not be exclude the possibility of a lower sea influence related with the dynamics of opening and closing connections between lagoon and ocean. The pollen analysis allowed the reconstruction of part of the vegetation history in the context of lagoon basin sedimentary filling. The development of the restinga forest in areas previously colonized by open vegetation around the lagoon suggested the progradation of coastal facies that completely filled paleolagoon in the area. The synthesis of the palinological data showed that no major changes of the mainland vegetation ecosystem took place at least since 4000 cal yr AP. The vegetation in the study area did not suffer great modifications; with no record of climatic changes. The multi-proxies analysis suggests that the sedimentary dynamics must be responsible for the greater changes observed in the core sediments. The evolution of ecosystems could be related to variations of the depositional process and modification in the character of the substratum, related to the coastal progradation.

Les écosystèmes côtiers méditerranéens sont soumis à de multiples sources de contamination (activités agricoles, industrielles et touristiques) impactant à des degrés divers les compartiments environnementaux (colonne d'eau, sédiments, biota, ...). En particulier, des études précédentes ont démontré que les sédiments de la Rade de Toulon présentent un niveau de multi-contamination très important, qui pourrait avoir des conséquences non-négligeables sur l'écosystème côtier, ce qui nécessite la réalisation de différentes études complémentaires visant à mieux comprendre les processus régissant le transfert potentiel des polluants vers le milieu environnant. Dans ce contexte, les objectifs de cette thèse consistent à étudier les processus contrôlant la dynamique des polluants inorganiques dans la colonne sédimentaire et à l'interface eau/sédiment et à évaluer leur remobilisation potentielle vers la colonne d'eau. Trois modes principaux de dispersion peuvent conduire à une remobilisation des contaminants: (1) la diagénèse précoce mobilisant des éléments nutritifs et des éléments traces métalliques et métalloïdes, (2) la remobilisation des contaminants lors de remises en suspension sédimentaire, et (3) le flux diffusif à l'interface eau/sédiment en lien avec la mobilité des contaminants dans la colonne sédimentaire. Pour atteindre ses objectifs, ce projet de thèse combine des approches in-situ (carottage d'interface, extraction de l'eau interstitielle, traitement/analyse des eaux interstitielles et des fractions solides, …), des expériences en laboratoire (suivi cinétique de la remobilisation des contaminants lors des mélanges eau/sédiment, extractions séquentielles…), des outils de modélisation (calcul de la spéciation chimique, simulation de la partition dissous/particulaire, simulation des profils sédimentaires, réactivité de la matière organique, …) ainsi que le traçage des sources de contamination et de leur transfert entre différents compartiments environnements à l'aide des isotopes stables du Pb. Ces travaux ont été réalisés en étroite collaboration avec le LASEM et avec la contribution de différents partenaires (EPOC/Université de Bordeaux, Ruđer Bošković Institut/Croatie, CAM/Université de Lausanne/Suisse, IFREMER, IRSN, …). / Mediterranean coastal ecosystems are exposed to several contamination sources (agricultural, industrial and touristic activities) impacting the environmental compartments (water column, sediment, biota ...) at various scales. Some previous studies showed, in particular, that the sediments of Toulon Bay present important contents of several contaminants, which may have non-negligible impacts on the coastal ecosystem, and which require further studies to better understand the processes governing the potential pollutants transfer to the surrounding environment. In this context, the objectives of this PhD are to study the processes controlling the inorganic pollutants dynamic in the sediment column and at the sediment/water interface and to assess their potential remobilization to the water column. Three main modes of dispersion can lead to contaminants remobilization : (1) the early diagenesis mobilizing nutrients, trace metals and metalloids, (2) the contaminants remobilization during sediment resuspension events, and (3) the diffusive flux from the sediment/water interface due to the sedimentary mobility of contaminants. To achieve its goals, this PhD project combines in-situ approaches (interface coring, extraction, treatment and analysis of porewater and solid fractions, ...), laboratory experiments (kinetic monitoring of contaminants remobilization during sediment resuspension, sequential extractions, ...), modeling tools (chemical speciation calculation, dissolved/particulate partition simulation, depth profiles simulation, organic matter reactivity, …) and contamination sources tracking and transfer between various environmental compartments using Pb stable isotopes. These studies were performed in close cooperation with the LASEM and with the contribution of different partners (EPOC/University of Bordeaux, Ruđer Bošković Institute/Croatia, CAM/University of Lausanne/Suisse, IFREMER, IRSN, …).

Der Baikalsee ist ein ideales Klimaarchiv für die Mitte Eurasiens. In dieser Arbeit wurde gesteinsmagnetische und paleomagnetische Analysen an hemipelagischen Sequenzen von vier Lokationen analysiert. Die Kerne erreichen ein Alter von maximal 300 ky. In Kombination mit TEM, XRD, XRF und geochemischen Analysen zeigt die gesteinsmagnetische Studie, dass detritischer Magnetit das magnetische Signal der glazialen Sedimente dominiert. Die magnetischen Signale der interglazialen Sedimente wurden durch diagenetische Prozesse verändert. Mittels HIRM können Hämatit und Goethit quantifiziert werden. Diese Methode eignet sich, den detritischen Eintrag in den Baikalsee abzuschätzen. Relative Paleointensitäten des Erdmagnetfeldes ergaben reproduizerbare Muster, welche in Korrelation mit gutdatierten Referenzproben die Ableitung eines alternativen Altersmodells für die Datierung der Baikalsedimente ermöglichten. Bei Anwendung des paleomagnetischen Altersmodells beobachtet man, dass die Abkühlung im Baikalgebiet und im Oberflächenwasser des Nordatlantiks wie sie aus den δ18 O-Werten planktonischer Foraminiferen abgeleitet werden kann, zeitgleich ist. Wird das aus benthischen δ18 O-Werten abgeleitete Altermdodell auf den Baikalsee angewandt, ergibt sich eine deutliche Zeitverschiebung. Das benthische Altersmodell repräsentiert die globale Veränderung des Eisvolumens, welche später als die Vänderung der Oberflächenwassertemperatur auftritt. Die Kompilation paleomagnetischer Kurven ergab eine neue relative Paleointensitätskurve “Baikal 200”. Mittels Korngrössenanalyse des Detritus konnten drei Faziestypen mit unterschiedlicher Sedimentationsdynamik unterschieden werden: 1) Glaziale Peroiden werden durch hohe Tongehalte infolge von Windeintrag und durch grobe Sandfraktion mittels Transport durch lokale Winde über das Eis charakterisiert. Dieser Faziestyp deutet auf arides Klima. 2) Während der Glazial/Interglazial-Übergänge steigt die Siltfraktion an. Dies deutet auf erhöhte Feuchtigkeit und damit verbunden erhöhte Sedimentdynamik. Windtransport und in den Schnee der Eisdecke eingetragener Staub sind die vorherrschenden Prozesse, welche den Silt in hemipelagischer Position zur Ablagerung bringen. 3) Während des klimatischen Optimum des Eeemian werden Grösse und Quantität des Silts minimal, was auf eine geschlossene Vegetationsdecke im Hinterland deutet. / Lake Baikal provides an excellent climatic archive for Central Eurasia as global climatic variations are continuously depicted in its sediments. We performed continuous rock magnetic and paleomagnetic analyses on hemipelagic sequences retrieved from 4 underwater highs reaching back 300 ka. The rock magnetic study combined with TEM, XRD, XRF and geochemical analyses evidenced that a magnetite of detrital origin dominates the magnetic signal in glacial sediments whereas interglacial sediments are affected by early diagenesis. HIRM roughly quantifies the hematite and goethite contributions and remains the best proxy for estimating the detrital input in Lake Baikal. Relative paleointensity records of the earth′s magnetic field show a reproducible pattern, which allows for correlation with well-dated reference curves and thus provides an alternative age model for Lake Baikal sediments. Using the paleomagnetic age model we observed that cooling in the Lake Baikal region and cooling of the sea surface water in the North Atlantic, as recorded in planktonic foraminifera δ18 O, are coeval. On the other hand, benthic δ18 O curves record mainly the global ice volume change, which occurs later than the sea surface temperature change. This proves that a dating bias results from an age model based on the correlation of Lake Baikal sedimentary records with benthic δ18 O curves. The compilation of paleomagnetic curves provides a new relative paleointensity curve, “Baikal 200”. With a laser-assisted grain size analysis of the detrital input, three facies types, reflecting different sedimentary dynamics can be distinguished. (1) Glacial periods are characterised by a high clay content mostly due to wind activity and by occurrence of a coarse fraction (sand) transported over the ice by local winds. This fraction gives evidence for aridity in the hinterland. (2) At glacial/interglacial transitions, the quantity of silt increases as the moisture increases, reflecting increased sedimentary dynamics. Wind transport and snow trapping are the dominant process bringing silt to a hemipelagic site (3) During the climatic optimum of the Eemian, the silt size and quantity are minimal due to blanketing of the detrital sources by the vegetal cover.

L'objectif de cette thèse était de comparer des mesures de flux sédimentaires et des évolutions morphologiques in-situ à des simulations numériques 2DH sur des plages macrotidales à barres intertidales. Ces comparaisons ont été réalisées sur deux plages de la région Nord Pas de Calais – Picardie, la plage de Zuydcoote et la plage de Hardelot. Ces plages sont caractérisées par un système barre-bâche sableux rectiligne.Ce travail a permis d'acquérir des données courantométriques et des données de houle sur le profil de chaque plage pendant une semaine ainsi que des données situées plus au large nécessaires pour le forçage du modèle numérique. Des mesures ponctuelles de flux sédimentaires ont également été réalisées à l'aide de pièges à sédiments ainsi qu'un suivi d'évolution du fond à l'aide de mesures DGPS en début et fin de campagnes de mesures.L'ensemble de ces données a été comparé aux résultats obtenus par un modèle numérique 2DH. Ce modèle numérique est composé de trois modules de la chaîne de calcul TELEMAC, un module pour la prise en compte des courants de marée, un module de propagation spectrale de la houle, et un module de transport de sédiments et d'évolution morphologique. A l'aide de ces modules, des simulations ont été réalisées sur la durée des campagnes de mesures afin de calibrer différents paramètres en comparant les résultats aux mesures in-situ, notamment le coefficient de Strickler, l'indice de déferlement des vagues, ainsi que différentes formules de transport sédimentaire.Ces simulations ont permis de montrer l'influence de l'indice de déferlement sur les résultats des simulations à la fois sur la partie hydrodynamique ainsi que pour le transport sédimentaire et l'évolution morphologique.Quatre différentes formules de transport sédimentaire ont été utilisés afin de déterminer leurs capacités à reproduire les mesures de transport sédimentaire et d'évolution in-situ en fonction de l'indice de déferlement.Ce modèle a permis de mettre en évidence le rôle des vagues et de leurs déferlements sur la direction et l'intensité du transport sédimentaire ainsi que des zones préférentielles d'accrétion et d'érosion. Cette étude a également montré certaines limites du modèle principalement sur les vitesses perpendiculaires à la plage suite à l'utilisation d'un modèle 2D, ainsi que des limitations induites par l'utilisation d'un indice de déferlement prenant en compte uniquement le rapport hauteur de vague sur profondeur, et limitant le déferlement sur la crête des barres et dans la pente entre la barre et la bâche supérieur sur la plage. / The objective of this thesis was to compare sediment flux measurements and in situ morphological changes with 2DH numerical simulations on macrotidal beaches with intertidal bars. These comparisons were made on two beaches in the Nord Pas de Calais - Picardie ,Zuydcoote Beach and Hardelot Beach. These beaches are characterized by a straight sandy bar-trough system.This work allowed to acquire current data and wave data on the profile of each beach and also offshore data for a period of one week. Sediment flux measurements were also conducted using sediment traps and by monitoring bottom evolution using DGPS measurements at the beginning and the end of the campaigns.All these data were compared with results obtained by a digital 2DH model. This digital model is composed of three modules of the TELEMAC calculation chain, a module for taking into account the tidal currents, a spectral propagation module for the waves, and a sediment transport module with morphological evolution. Using these modules, simulations were performed for the duration of measurement campaigns to calibrate various parameters by comparing the results with in-situ measurements, including the Strickler coefficient, the wave-breaking index and four different sediment transport formulas.These simulations show the influence of the breaker index on both the hydrodynamic part and the sediment transport and morphological evolution.The different sediment transport formulas were used to determine their ability to reproduce the sediment transport measurements and the evolution according to the breaker value.This model has helped to highlight the role of waves and surges on the direction and intensity of the sediment transport as well as preferential areas of accretion and erosion. This study also shows some limitations of the model mainly on the speed perpendicular to the beach and the limitations caused by the use of a breaker index taking only into account the ratio between wave height and the deep, and limiting the surge on the crest of the bars and into the slope between the bar and the top trough on the beach.

O estudo de três testemunhos rasos (até 2,5m de profundidade) coletados na região de Jaguaruna, litoral centro-sul de Santa Catarina, permitiu reconstituir parte da história de evolução sedimentar holocênica na área. Para isso, foi feita a análise integrada de quatro tipos de variáveis: sedimentológicas, diatomológicas, palinológicas e geoquímicas (Ctotal, Ntotal, 13C e 15N). Os dados de micropaleontologia foram tratados por métodos de estatística mutivariada (análise fatorial de correspondência, análise de componentes principais e classificação ascendente hierárquica), que evidenciaram agrupamentos significativos entre os microfósseis e, desse modo, auxiliaram nas interpretações. A ca. 5000 anos AP, a área de estudo deveria ser ocupada por um conjunto de lagunas interconectadas, cuja existência pôde ser atestada pelos sedimentos de fundo lagunar, na base de um dos testemunhos, em zona atualmente colonizada por mata de restinga. A ligação da laguna com o mar, nesta época, é verificada pela presença de diatomáceas marinhas e pelo sinal isotópico e elementar da matéria orgânica preservada nos sedimentos, indicativo de origem algácea, com valores de 13C de fitoplâncton marinho. A perda da conexão da laguna com o oceano ocorreu em diferentes momentos nos três testemunhos, sendo o último registro de desconexão da laguna observado a ca. 2740-2370 anos cal AP. Variações nas assembléis de diatomáceas no registro da fase lagunar (de 5500 até 2740-2370 anos cal AP) indicaram pelo menos dois períodos de mudanças maiores na salinidade da paleolaguna. Estes períodos puderam ser comparados a dados de paleoprecipitação, publicados em trabalhos anteriores, obtidos para o Estado de Santa Catarina. Observou-se boa correlação entre períodos com maior precipitação e períodos de diminuição na salinidade das águas da laguna, o que seria relacionado à sua diluição por maior aporte fluvial, sem excluir, no entanto, a possibilidade de menor influência marinha devido a dinâmica de abertura e fechamento das conexões da laguna com o oceano. O registro da vegetação através da analise palinológica auxiliou na elaboração do modelo evolutivo da área e permitiu reconstituir parte da história da vegetação no contexto de preenchimento da bacia lagunar. O desenvolvimento da vegetação de restinga em áreas antes ocupadas por vegetação característica de borda lagunar reforçaria a idéia de progradação das fácies costeiras assoreando por completo a paleolaguna na área. A síntese dos dados palinológicos entre os três testemunhos permite interpretar que, pelo menos desde 4000 anos cal AP, a vegetação na área de estudo não sofreu grandes modificações, o que sugere clima semelhante ao presente. A análise integrada dos diferentes indicadores paloambientais sugere que a dinâmica sedimentar deve ser a maior responsável pelas mudanças observadas nos três testemunhos, com evolução dos ecossistemas ligada, principalmente, a variações no regime e substrato deposicionais, relacionadas à progradação costeira. / Sediments from three cores collected in Jaguaruna (south Brazilian coast, Santa Catarina state) were analyzed, in order to reconstruct the Holocene sedimentary evolution of the area. The palaeoenvironmental reconstruction was based on microfossil proxies (diatoms, pollen and spores), analysis of sedimentary organic matter (13C, 15N and C/N ratios), and sedimentological analysis. From at least 5000 cal yr AP, the site was occupied by a system of interconnected lagoons, whose existence is verified in the core sediments by the record of paleolagoon sediments in area occupied by restinga forest nowadays. The existence of this lagoon and of its connection with the sea is indicated by the presence of marine diatoms and by the isotopic and elementary composition of the sedimentary organic matter, which is indicative of algal origin, with 13C values of marine phytoplankton. The end of the connection between sea and lagoon was registered in different moments in the three cores and the last record of disconnection is found in ca. 2740-2370 cal yr AP. The variations of the diatom assemblages from the lagoonal phase (between 5000 and 2740-2370 cal yr AP) indicated at least two periods of major changes in the paleolagoon salinity. These periods could be compared with the published paleoprecipitation data for the Santa Catarina state, which showed a good correlation between higher precipitation and reduction in the lagoon water salinity. This correlation would be related to dilution of water salinity by the greater fluvial discharges. However, it can not be exclude the possibility of a lower sea influence related with the dynamics of opening and closing connections between lagoon and ocean. The pollen analysis allowed the reconstruction of part of the vegetation history in the context of lagoon basin sedimentary filling. The development of the restinga forest in areas previously colonized by open vegetation around the lagoon suggested the progradation of coastal facies that completely filled paleolagoon in the area. The synthesis of the palinological data showed that no major changes of the mainland vegetation ecosystem took place at least since 4000 cal yr AP. The vegetation in the study area did not suffer great modifications; with no record of climatic changes. The multi-proxies analysis suggests that the sedimentary dynamics must be responsible for the greater changes observed in the core sediments. The evolution of ecosystems could be related to variations of the depositional process and modification in the character of the substratum, related to the coastal progradation.

L'estuaire du Mono est établi dans la partie occidentale du littoral béninois. C'est un estuaire microtidal à dominance de houle qui assure les échanges avec la mer par le biais d'une embouchure tidal connue sous le nom de "Bouche du Roi". Il forme un système hydrosédimentaire côtier associé à trois générations de cordons de barrières témoins des dernières oscillations marines du Quaternaire récent. Ce travail de thèse a permis d'étudier la dynamique des cordons de barrières de l'estuaire du Mono à diverses échelles temporelles et suivant une approche résolument pluridisciplinaire et instrumentale. Les résultats montrent que les deux anciens cordons barrières de l'estuaire se sont construits et détruits au rythme des variations du niveau marin du Quaternaire récent. Par contre, la dynamique contemporaine des cordons barrières actuels (plage actuelle) se traduit par la morphogénèse d'un système de flèche-crique, sous le contrôle du régime de houle et des conditions de marée d'une part, puis des saisons hyrdologiques du fleuve d'autre part. Avant la mise en service du barrage de Nangbéto, du fait du caractère temporaire des écoulements du Mono, la morphodynamique du couple flèche-crique était limitée dans l'espace et dans le temps. Mais depuis la mise en eau du barrage en 1987, cette morphodynamique est devenue persistante, en raison de la consistance et de la permanence des écoulements du Mono désormais régulés par le barrage. Les conséquences de cette morphodynamique anthropique sur l'environnement physique et humain sont incommensurables : pertes des plages à très hautes renommée touristique, engloutissement des terres et des cultures (salicultures, cultures agraires, aquacultures,...) par la mer, destruction d'habitations et autres infrastructures socio-communautaires (écoles, routes,...), déplacements de populations, exhumation des dépouilles de parents défunts,...La solution de mitigation proposée est le déplacement des populations de Hokoué et de Docloboé et la pratique périodiques (tous les 7 ans) des ouvertures mécaniques au niveau de la plage d'Avlo. / The Mono river estuary is established in the Western part of the Benin coastal zone. It's a microtidal estuary with predominance of swell. It ensures the exchanges with the sea by means of a tidal inlet named "Bouche du Roi". It forms a coastal hydro-sedimentary system associated with three generations of sand barrier which attest the last marine oscillations of the recent Quaternary. This thesis work studies the dynamics of these barriers-inlets on various temporal scales and according to a multi-field approach. The results show that the two old sand barriers are built and destroyed at the rhythm of marine level variations of recent Quaternary. On the other hand, the contemporary dynamics of the current barrier results in the morphogenesis of a spit-creek system, under control of littoral drift, tide conditions and hydrological seasons of the Mono river. Before the startup of Nangbeto dam, because of the temporary character of the Mono flows, the spit-creek morphodynamic was limited in space and time. But since the operating of the dam in 1987, the spit-creek morphodynamic became persistent, owing to consistency and permanence of Mono flows from now on controlled by the dam. The effects of this anthropic morphodynamics on the physical and human environment are immeasurable : loss of touristic beach, swallowing up of grounds and cultures (salt productions, agrarian cultures, aquacultures,...), destruction of dwellings and other socio-community infrastructures (schools, roads,...), populations displacements, exhumation of late parents remains,... The migration solution proposed consists in displacement of Hokoue and Docloboe populations and in periodical practice (every 7 years) of mechanical breaches on the level of Avlo beach.

Para o presente trabalho, três testemunhos foram amostrados nos manguezais João Cardoso (JC), Ipaneminha (IPA) e Perequê (PE), localizados na face norte da llha do Cardoso. Estudo interdisciplinar envonveldo descrições faciológica, análise granulométrica, datação 14C, análises isotópicas e elementares de C e N e palinologia foram realizados com o objetivo de descrever a evolução sedimentar e da vegetação, com inferâncias climáticas. Entre 250 a 166 cm, o testemunho JC é composto de areia média creme-acinzentada base gradando para areia muito-fina cinza, com idades de 33.000 (198cm) e 29.400 anos cal. A.P. (166cm), carbono orgânico total (COT) de 0,044 a 0,633%, nitrogênio total (NT) de 0,002 a 0,017%, C/N de 7 a 30, \'delta\'13C de -18,49 a -24,46%o e \'delta\'15N de 2,48 a 8,13%o), indicativos de matéria orgânica terrestre de plantas C3 e C4 e algas/fitoplâncton. A palinologia mostra predomínio de elementos arbóreos dos táxons Alchornea, Drymis, Ilex, Myrsine, Myrtaceae, Podocarpus e Weinmannia (até 10%, cada) e esporos de Cyathea e Polypodiaceae (30%), característico de clima frio e úmido. De 166 a 70 cm a fácies apresenta areia média com estratificação cruzada plano-paralela marcada por areia/argila cinza escura, indicando ambiente praial de inframaré. Esta camada representa um hiato de ~27.000 anos cal. A.P. de sedimentação original, provavelmente erodidos durante transgresão Santos. Os testemunhos IPA e PE apresentam camada semelhante, iniciando na base (170 e 140cm, respectivamente), até aprox. 60 cm. A 163 cm no testemunho IPA foi obtida idade de ~2200 anos AP e ausência de palinomorfos. Sobre a camada da areia, nos três testemunhos, depositam-se sedimentos arenosos/argilosos bioturbados, com abundantes fragmentos/raízes vegetais e conchas. A partir de ~850 anos cal. A.P. (testemunho IPA - 50cm), a variação nos valores elementares e isotópicos de C e N indicam a substituição do predomínio de M.O. fitoplanctônica para M.O. de plantas C3, ainda com influência do fitoplâncton (COT: 0,15 a 12,8%; NT: 0,01 a 0,48%; \'delta\'13C: - 21,00 até - 29,00%o; \'delta\'15N: 8,00 a 3,40%o). A palinologia mostra um padrão semelhante nos três testemunhos. Os táxons Alchornea, Arecaceae, Fabaceae, Hedyosmum, Myrsine, Myrtaceae, Podocarpus, Sloanea, Weinmannia são os mais representativos entre os arbóreos (até 10%). Esporos de Cyathea e Polypodium e grãos de pólen de Poaceae e Cyperaceae correspondem a aprox. 30% da soma total, pouco variando. Estes valores indicam a presença das formações da Floresta Atlântica e da Restinga na região durante todo o período. O táxon Rhizophora sofre aumento neste período de 5 para até 22% nos dias atuais. Infere-se presença de manguezal na região e seu subsequente estabelecimento no local. Palinoforaminíferos e dinocistos são abundantes (até 15%) na base da camada, diminuindo em frequência para o topo (4%). Estes dados mostram uma progressiva diminuição na influência marinha, evoluindo de ambientes intermaré para ambiente de supramaré, devido à redução do nível marinho local durante o Holoceno tardio. Estes dados contribuem para o entendimento da evolução paleoambiental no litoral sul do Estado de São Paulo desde o Pleistoceno Tardio / For the present work, three cores where sampled on the \"João Cardoso (JC)\", \"Ipaneminha (IPA)\" and \"Perequê (PE)\" mangroves, located at the northern face of the Cardoso Island. A interdisciplinary study involving facies, radiocarbon dating, elementary and isotopic carbon and nitrogen, granulometric and palynological analysis were carried with the objective of describing the vegetation and sedimentary evolution, with climatic inferences. Between 250 and 166 cm, the JC core is primarily constituted by grayish medium sand progressing to very fine sand, with ages of ~33.000 (198cm) and ~29.450 (166) cal yr AP. Total Organic Carbon (TOC) of 0,044% to 0,633%, Total Nitrogen (NT) of 0,001 to 0,017%, C/N ratios of 7 to 30, \'delta\'13C of -18,49 to -24,46%o and \'delta\'15N of 2,48 to 8,13%o indicates mixture of C3and C4 terrestrial plants and phytoplantonic sources. Palynology show predominance of the arboreal elements Alchornea, Drymis, Ilex, Myrsine, Myrtaceae, Podocarpus e Weinmannia (up to 10% of total, each) , Cyathea and Polypodium spores (up to 20%), caracteristic of humid and cold climate. From 166 to 70 cm the facies show plane-paralell cross-bedded stratification marked by dark gray medium sand, indicating an inter-tidal environment. This layer represents a hiatus of ca. ~27.000 yr of original sedimentation, probably eroded on the Santos marine transgression. Cores IPA and PE presents similar facies at their bases (170 and 140 cm, respectively) up to near 60 cm. At 163 cm, the IPA core shows age of ~2.000 cal yr AP, and no palynomorphs. On top of this sandy facies are layers of sandy/silty/clayey bioturbated sediments, with an abundance of root, shells and plant debris. Since . ~850 cal yr AP, the isotopic and elementary values show a gradual substitution of the phytoplanctonic source of the sedimentary organic matter to a terrestrial C3 plant source on the three cores. Palynology also shows a similar pattern between the three records?, with Alchornea, Arecaceae, Fabaceae, Hedyosmum, Myrsine, Myrtaceae, Podocarpus, Sloanea, Weinmannia taxons the most well represented between the trees, with Cyathea e Polypodium, Poaceae e Cyperaceae with up to 30% of the total. These are characteristic of the Pluvial and sandbank forests. Rhizophora show an increase in this period from 5 to 22%, indicating the establishment and evolution of the mangrove vegetation on the area since ~850 cal yr AP. Palinoforaminifera and dinocyst show a diminishing pattern (from 15 to 4%) through this period, indicating a progressive decrease of the marine influence at the area, evolving an intertidal to a supratidal zone, following a decrease of local sea level during the late Holocene. This data contributes to a better understanding of the late Pleistocene environment evolution in the southeastern Brazilian coast

Para o presente trabalho, três testemunhos foram amostrados nos manguezais João Cardoso (JC), Ipaneminha (IPA) e Perequê (PE), localizados na face norte da llha do Cardoso. Estudo interdisciplinar envonveldo descrições faciológica, análise granulométrica, datação 14C, análises isotópicas e elementares de C e N e palinologia foram realizados com o objetivo de descrever a evolução sedimentar e da vegetação, com inferâncias climáticas. Entre 250 a 166 cm, o testemunho JC é composto de areia média creme-acinzentada base gradando para areia muito-fina cinza, com idades de 33.000 (198cm) e 29.400 anos cal. A.P. (166cm), carbono orgânico total (COT) de 0,044 a 0,633%, nitrogênio total (NT) de 0,002 a 0,017%, C/N de 7 a 30, \'delta\'13C de -18,49 a -24,46%o e \'delta\'15N de 2,48 a 8,13%o), indicativos de matéria orgânica terrestre de plantas C3 e C4 e algas/fitoplâncton. A palinologia mostra predomínio de elementos arbóreos dos táxons Alchornea, Drymis, Ilex, Myrsine, Myrtaceae, Podocarpus e Weinmannia (até 10%, cada) e esporos de Cyathea e Polypodiaceae (30%), característico de clima frio e úmido. De 166 a 70 cm a fácies apresenta areia média com estratificação cruzada plano-paralela marcada por areia/argila cinza escura, indicando ambiente praial de inframaré. Esta camada representa um hiato de ~27.000 anos cal. A.P. de sedimentação original, provavelmente erodidos durante transgresão Santos. Os testemunhos IPA e PE apresentam camada semelhante, iniciando na base (170 e 140cm, respectivamente), até aprox. 60 cm. A 163 cm no testemunho IPA foi obtida idade de ~2200 anos AP e ausência de palinomorfos. Sobre a camada da areia, nos três testemunhos, depositam-se sedimentos arenosos/argilosos bioturbados, com abundantes fragmentos/raízes vegetais e conchas. A partir de ~850 anos cal. A.P. (testemunho IPA - 50cm), a variação nos valores elementares e isotópicos de C e N indicam a substituição do predomínio de M.O. fitoplanctônica para M.O. de plantas C3, ainda com influência do fitoplâncton (COT: 0,15 a 12,8%; NT: 0,01 a 0,48%; \'delta\'13C: - 21,00 até - 29,00%o; \'delta\'15N: 8,00 a 3,40%o). A palinologia mostra um padrão semelhante nos três testemunhos. Os táxons Alchornea, Arecaceae, Fabaceae, Hedyosmum, Myrsine, Myrtaceae, Podocarpus, Sloanea, Weinmannia são os mais representativos entre os arbóreos (até 10%). Esporos de Cyathea e Polypodium e grãos de pólen de Poaceae e Cyperaceae correspondem a aprox. 30% da soma total, pouco variando. Estes valores indicam a presença das formações da Floresta Atlântica e da Restinga na região durante todo o período. O táxon Rhizophora sofre aumento neste período de 5 para até 22% nos dias atuais. Infere-se presença de manguezal na região e seu subsequente estabelecimento no local. Palinoforaminíferos e dinocistos são abundantes (até 15%) na base da camada, diminuindo em frequência para o topo (4%). Estes dados mostram uma progressiva diminuição na influência marinha, evoluindo de ambientes intermaré para ambiente de supramaré, devido à redução do nível marinho local durante o Holoceno tardio. Estes dados contribuem para o entendimento da evolução paleoambiental no litoral sul do Estado de São Paulo desde o Pleistoceno Tardio / For the present work, three cores where sampled on the \"João Cardoso (JC)\", \"Ipaneminha (IPA)\" and \"Perequê (PE)\" mangroves, located at the northern face of the Cardoso Island. A interdisciplinary study involving facies, radiocarbon dating, elementary and isotopic carbon and nitrogen, granulometric and palynological analysis were carried with the objective of describing the vegetation and sedimentary evolution, with climatic inferences. Between 250 and 166 cm, the JC core is primarily constituted by grayish medium sand progressing to very fine sand, with ages of ~33.000 (198cm) and ~29.450 (166) cal yr AP. Total Organic Carbon (TOC) of 0,044% to 0,633%, Total Nitrogen (NT) of 0,001 to 0,017%, C/N ratios of 7 to 30, \'delta\'13C of -18,49 to -24,46%o and \'delta\'15N of 2,48 to 8,13%o indicates mixture of C3and C4 terrestrial plants and phytoplantonic sources. Palynology show predominance of the arboreal elements Alchornea, Drymis, Ilex, Myrsine, Myrtaceae, Podocarpus e Weinmannia (up to 10% of total, each) , Cyathea and Polypodium spores (up to 20%), caracteristic of humid and cold climate. From 166 to 70 cm the facies show plane-paralell cross-bedded stratification marked by dark gray medium sand, indicating an inter-tidal environment. This layer represents a hiatus of ca. ~27.000 yr of original sedimentation, probably eroded on the Santos marine transgression. Cores IPA and PE presents similar facies at their bases (170 and 140 cm, respectively) up to near 60 cm. At 163 cm, the IPA core shows age of ~2.000 cal yr AP, and no palynomorphs. On top of this sandy facies are layers of sandy/silty/clayey bioturbated sediments, with an abundance of root, shells and plant debris. Since . ~850 cal yr AP, the isotopic and elementary values show a gradual substitution of the phytoplanctonic source of the sedimentary organic matter to a terrestrial C3 plant source on the three cores. Palynology also shows a similar pattern between the three records?, with Alchornea, Arecaceae, Fabaceae, Hedyosmum, Myrsine, Myrtaceae, Podocarpus, Sloanea, Weinmannia taxons the most well represented between the trees, with Cyathea e Polypodium, Poaceae e Cyperaceae with up to 30% of the total. These are characteristic of the Pluvial and sandbank forests. Rhizophora show an increase in this period from 5 to 22%, indicating the establishment and evolution of the mangrove vegetation on the area since ~850 cal yr AP. Palinoforaminifera and dinocyst show a diminishing pattern (from 15 to 4%) through this period, indicating a progressive decrease of the marine influence at the area, evolving an intertidal to a supratidal zone, following a decrease of local sea level during the late Holocene. This data contributes to a better understanding of the late Pleistocene environment evolution in the southeastern Brazilian coast

Le phénomène global d’érosion côtière, notamment sur les rivages d’accumulation, tend à accroître les risques côtiers (érosion et submersion) dans les secteurs à enjeux. Dans ce contexte, les stratégies visant à la gestion des stocks sableux côtiers au sein même des cellules hydro-sédimentaires apparaissent comme une réponse potentielle à la gestion locale de l’érosion des accumulations littorales, et au-delà à la gestion de ces risques. Ces perspectives se heurtent encore à une insuffisance de connaissance des dynamiques géomorphologiques des avant-plages (partie immergée de la cellule). Pour autant, la connaissance des échanges au sein de la cellule et avec le large sont au coeur de la compréhension du fonctionnement des systèmes littoraux sableux. Les objectifs de cette thèse sont de renforcer les connaissances géomorphologiques des stocks sableux et de leur mobilité au sein des cellules littorales et, par l’amélioration de cette connaissance, de contribuer à l’élaboration de stratégies de gestion des risques côtiers.La comparaison de levés bathymétriques multi-temporels sur le temps long (séculaire) et court (annuel) à une échelle régionale et locale met en évidence les évolutions des avant-plages sur les côtes bretonnes du début du XXème siècle à nos jours. Ainsi, un des résultats majeurs est une inversion des tendances d’évolutions au milieu du XXème siècle. Une situation d’accrétion ou de stabilité relative laisse place à une érosion généralisée des avant-plages sur les côtes bretonnes. L’interprétation et la discussion de ces résultats permettent d’avancer des facteurs explicatifs de ces évolutions tels que les forçages météo-marins et anthropiques et les contraintes structurales. / The global phenomenon of coastal erosion, occurring especially on sandy coasts, tends to increase coastal risks in areas with key issues and concerns. In this context, stocks management strategies within sandy hydro-sedimentary coastal cells have appeared to be potential solutions to the local management of coastal erosion and their associated risks. However, despite their importance to determine management strategies, the dynamics of nearshore (submerged part of the cell) geomorphology remain poorly studied and partially understood. This PhD thesis aims to provide a better understanding of nearshore geomorphology in some specific sites and to contribute to the development of coastal risk management strategies.The study of multi-temporal bathymetric surveys at century-scale and annual-scale highlights significant evolution of the Brittany nearshore morphology from the beginning of the 20th century until today.In particular, a striking result is the reversal of the morphological evolution tendency in the mid-20th century. During the first half-century, the situation is steady, though nearshore morphology has a slight tendency toward accumulation. During the second half-century, we measured a net erosion tendency for all the survey sites. Interpretation and discussion of these results allow to determine the forcing of the nearshore morphodynamics, among which are climatic (coupled ocean-atmosphere) events, anthropogenic impacts and structural constraints.