The ongoing conflict between Thailand’s red shirt and yellow shirt parties is not purely political. This tension is rooted in a renewed awareness of regional economic and social inequality, a byproduct of rapid economic growth in the past. This thesis seeks to understand the overall consequences of unequal economic development in Thailand, as the rationale for asserting that a conditional cash transfer (CCT) program is an appropriate policy tool for the ongoing reconciliation efforts.

The purpose of this research was to evaluate and compare the performance, aesthetic and material properties of women’s t-shirts composed of three different sustainable fibers (lyocell, organic cotton, and viscose from bamboo) before and after repeated home laundering. A convenience sample was comprised of thirty-nine t-shirts. Thirteen black t-shirts from each fiber content were used for testing according to ASTM and AATCC standards. The evaluations and measurements were performed initially and after wash intervals one, five, ten, and twenty. The t-shirts were tested for fabric weight, fabric count, color fastness, smoothness appearance, pilling, dimensional stability and skewness.

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The purpose of this research was to evaluate the quality of design, materials, construction, appearance, and performance of mens 100% cotton jersey knit t-shirts from three retail categories: mass merchant, fast fashion, and better. These retail categories were represented by brands Fruit of the Loom, H&M, and Brooks Brothers, respectively. A convenience sample was comprised of 78 t-shirts. 13 white and 13 navy t-shirts from each brand were used for testing according to ASTM and AATCC standards and specifications. Evaluations and measurements were conducted before washing, and after one, five, ten, and twenty laundry cycles. The t-shirts were evaluated for fabric weight, fabric count, color change, whiteness change, crocking, smoothness appearance, bursting strength, pilling, dimensional stability, and skewness. The navy t-shirts in the ‘better’ retail category met five out of the six requirements specified by the ASTM standard. However, the navy t-shirts in the ‘fast fashion’ category met four out of five met by the ‘better’ category. In conclusion, the decision to purchase a t-shirt from these retail categories may depend on consumer expectations.

Los polos de algodón son uno de los principales productos con mayor exportación del sector textil debido a la calidad de su confección y fino acabado. El Perú, desde el 2009, cuenta con un acuerdo promocional comercial con EE.UU., principal importador de polos de algodón peruano, sin embargo las exportaciones a dicho destino no han tenido el crecimiento esperado. Por lo cual, la presente investigación tiene la finalidad de identificar si las reglas de origen negociadas en el APC Perú- EE.UU. son un condicionante en la competitividad de las exportaciones de polos de algodón, considerando el periodo de 10 años desde la entrada en vigencia de dicho acuerdo. Para llevar a cabo la investigación, se ha revisado los antecedentes históricos previos al APC, las reglas de origen y las reglas específicas, para tener un mejor panorama de la situación del problema, asimismo se realizó un análisis situacional global, regional y nacional. La presente es una investigación con enfoque cualitativo que recolecta los datos de forma primaria directamente de los principales actores de las exportaciones de polos de algodón hacia EE.UU., mediante entrevistas, de las cuales se obtuvo como resultado que si bien es cierto que las reglas de origen establecidas en el APC Perú – EE.UU., exigen el uso de hilado originario de una de las partes de los países miembros, y de cierta manera condiciona la competitividad, sin embargo es un punto que los exportadores pueden y han venido manejando desde antes de la entrada en vigencia del APC. / T- shirts cotton are one of the main products of the textiles market due to the quality of their clothing and use of fine raw materials Since 2009, Peru has had a commercial promotional agreement with the United States, the main importer of Peruvian t-shirts cotton, however, exports to that destination have not had the expected growth. Therefore, this research aims to identify whether the rules of origin negotiated in the Peru-US APC are a determining factor in the competitiveness to exports of t-shirts cotton, considering the 10-year period from entry into force mentioned agreement to carry out the research, the historical antecedents prior to the APC, the rules of origin and the specific rules have been reviewed to have a better overview of the problem situation, as well as a global, regional and national situational analysis. This is a research with a qualitative approach that collects data primarily directly from the main exporter of t-shirts cotton to the United States, through interviews, from which it was obtained as a result that the rules of origin established in the APC Peru - USA, require the use of yarn originating from one of the parts of the member countries, and in a certain way conditions competitiveness, however it is a point that exporters have already been considering since before entry into force of the APC. / Tesis

Clothing is the primary means that wilderness backpackers have to protect themselves from injuries and illnesses that can occur while hiking in the cold. The current method of layering clothing may not meet backpackers' needs for both thermal insulation and heat dissipation, particularly in areas of the body that produce greater sweat, and during times of high physical exertion. No previous studies have addressed backpackers' needs for thermal and moisture comfort in different body areas within a single layer garment. The purpose of this study was to design and evaluate a single-layer garment of different textiles, to improve the physiological comfort of male backpackers hiking in cold winter weather conditions. The objectives of this study were to identify the physiological comfort needs of male backpackers hiking in the cold, to design a prototype backpacking shirt to improve comfort, and to evaluate the comfort and performance of the prototype over time, in comparison to a control. Male backpackers were recruited from a wilderness therapy company in Bend, Oregon, where subjects' employment duties included regularly backpacking in the cold. Qualitative data was collected by interviewing the subjects about their physiological comfort needs, types of garments and materials worn, dissatisfactions and preferences with hiking clothing, and locations on the body that need better attention to thermal and moisture comfort. Information provided by the qualitative interviews was used to develop design criteria. From the guarded hot plate and moisture management testing, results were used to select one thermal insulation, moisture management, and control fabric for the garment design. Based on the design criteria, a prototype shirt was developed. A prototype garment was constructed using the combination of the thermal, moisture, and control fabrics; while a control garment was constructed in an identical style using only the control fabric. The prototype and control garments were worn and tested by subjects while they backpacked. Additionally, comparisons of thermal insulation data between the prototype and control garment were collected on a thermal manikin. Major findings from the qualitative interviews were that subjects preferred base layer shirts made with synthetic fibers and style features that helped retain body heat. Subjects preferred to have greater thermal insulation in the chest and the arms, and less thermal insulation in the underarms and upper back area. Additionally, subjects were concerned about durability. A polyester fleece pile-knit was selected for the thermal insulation fabric and located in the arms and chest of the prototype. The moisture management fabric selected was a polyester fiber mesh knit fabric and was located in the upper back, underarms, and side seams of the garment. The control fabric was a brushed polyester double knit fabric and was located in all other body areas of the prototype and in the entire control garment. The wear test data indicated that both the control and prototype garments were perceived to be comfortable. The prototype had slightly better overall comfort than the control, and there were significant differences found between the prototype and the control in the areas of overall comfort, combined thermal comfort, and combined moisture comfort. The prototype did not consistently have better comfort performance than the control in each trial and for each subject. It was found that the prototype and control shirts could be worn without additional layers when the temperatures were above 35 ��F and 40 ��F, respectively. Thermal manikin testing results confirmed that the overall thermal insulation of both test shirts was equal, but that the prototype had greater or less thermal insulation than the control in specific body areas, depending on the placement of the thermal insulation or moisture management fabric. In summary, the prototype shirt designed in this study has accomplished the goal of providing backpackers' physiological comfort needs identified in the qualitative interviews.�� The design prototype, when worn alone, is able to keep backpackers comfortable when hiking in cold conditions, particularly in temperatures above 35��F. Although not intended to be worn as part of a layer system, the prototype also keeps backpackers comfortable when they are wearing multiple clothing layers. The use of different fabrics in different body areas satisfies the backpackers' needs of both retaining and dissipating body heat with changes in physical activity. Although both the prototype and the control shirts were found to have good thermal, moisture, and overall comfort, the prototype had slightly higher overall comfort ratings than the control.�� In addition, both the prototype and the control were perceived to be better than the subjects' own base layer shirts, and all subjects were willing to recommend the shirts to other hikers. / Graduation date: 2013

Chan, Chun Hung. / Thesis (M.Phil.)--Chinese University of Hong Kong, 2008. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves 77-84). / Abstracts in Chinese and English. / Acknowledgment: --- p.i / 摘要 --- p.ii / Abstract --- p.iv / List of Figure --- p.vi / List of Table --- p.viii / Content Page --- p.ix / Chapter Chapter 1 --- Introduction --- p.1 / Chapter 1.1 --- The Difficulties --- p.1 / Chapter 1.2 --- The Solution --- p.2 / Chapter 1.3 --- Goal of the Present Work --- p.2 / Chapter Chapter 2 --- Background and Methodology --- p.3 / Chapter 2.1 --- Hypertension Situation and Problems Around the World --- p.3 / Chapter 2.1.1 --- Blood Pressure Variability (BPV) --- p.4 / Chapter 2.2 --- Blood Pressure Measuring Methods --- p.5 / Chapter 2.2.1 --- Traditional Blood Pressure Meters --- p.6 / Chapter 2.2.2 --- Limitation of Commercial Blood Pressure Meters --- p.7 / Chapter 2.2.3 --- Pulse-Transit-Time (PTT) Based Blood Pressure Measuring Watch --- p.7 / Chapter 2.3 --- Wearable Body Sensors Network / System --- p.8 / Chapter 2.4 --- Current Status of e-Textile Garment --- p.9 / Chapter 2.4.1 --- Blood Pressure Measurement in e-Textile Garment --- p.13 / Chapter 2.5 --- Wearable Intelligent Sensors and System for e-Health (WISSH) --- p.15 / Chapter 2.5.1 --- "Monitoring, Connection and Display" --- p.15 / Chapter 2.5.2 --- Treatment --- p.16 / Chapter 2.5.3 --- Alarming --- p.17 / Chapter Chapter 3 --- "A h-Shirt to Non-invasive, Continuous Monitoring of Arterial Blood Pressure" --- p.18 / Chapter 3.1 --- Design and Inner Structure of h-Shirt --- p.18 / Chapter 3.1.1 --- Choose of e-Textile Material --- p.21 / Chapter 3.1.2 --- Design of ECG Circuit --- p.23 / Chapter 3.1.3 --- Design of PPG Circuit --- p.26 / Chapter 3.2 --- Blood Pressure Estimation Using Pulse-Transit-Time Algorithm --- p.28 / Chapter 3.2.1 --- Principal --- p.28 / Chapter 3.2.2 --- Equations --- p.29 / Chapter 3.2.3 --- Calibration --- p.29 / Chapter 3.3 --- Performance Tests on h-Shirt --- p.30 / Chapter 3.3.1 --- Test I: BP Measurement Accuracy --- p.30 / Chapter 3.3.2 --- Test I: Procedure and Protocol --- p.30 / Chapter 3.3.3 --- Test I-Results --- p.31 / Chapter 3.3.4 --- Test II: Continuality BP Estimation Performance --- p.31 / Chapter 3.3.5 --- Test II - Experiment Procedure and Protocol --- p.32 / Chapter 3.3.6 --- Test II - Experiment Result --- p.33 / Chapter 3.3.7 --- Test II 一 Discussion --- p.43 / Chapter 3.4 --- Follow-up Tests on ECG Circuit --- p.47 / Chapter 3.4.1 --- Problems --- p.47 / Chapter 3.4.2 --- Assumptions --- p.48 / Chapter 3.4.3 --- Experiment Protocol and Setup --- p.48 / Chapter 3.4.4 --- Experiment Results --- p.53 / Chapter 3.4.5 --- Discussion --- p.56 / Chapter Chapter 4: --- Hybrid Body Sensor Network in h-Shirt --- p.59 / Chapter 4.1 --- A Hybrid Body Sensor Network --- p.59 / Chapter 4.2 --- Biological Channel Used in h-Shirt --- p.60 / Chapter 4.3 --- Tests of Bio-channel Performance --- p.62 / Chapter 4.3.1 --- Experiment Protocol --- p.62 / Chapter 4.3.2 --- Results --- p.62 / Chapter 4.4 --- Discussion and Conclusion --- p.63 / Chapter Chapter 5: --- Conclusion and Suggestions for Future Works --- p.66 / Chapter 5.1 --- Conclusion --- p.66 / Chapter 5.1.1 --- Structure of h-Shirt --- p.66 / Chapter 5.1.2 --- Blood Pressure Estimating Ability of h-Shirt --- p.67 / Chapter 5.1.3 --- Tests and Amendments on h-Shirt ECG Circuit --- p.67 / Chapter 5.1.4 --- Hybrid Body Sensor Network in h-Shirt --- p.67 / Chapter 5.2 --- Suggestions for Future Work --- p.68 / Chapter 5.2.1 --- Further Development of Bio-channel Biological Model --- p.68 / Chapter 5.2.2 --- Positioning and Motion Sensing with h-Shirt --- p.69 / Chapter 5.2.3 --- Implementation of Updated Advance Technology into h-Shirt --- p.69 / Appendix: Non-invasive BP Measuring Device - Finometer --- p.71 / Reference: --- p.77

由於本文研究的主題，國內過去的研究非常地少，因此本文在章節安排上 除了側重法西斯主義對三○年代中國政治的影響外， 並嚐試將法西斯主 義傳入中國及其興起過程作一清楚釐清。全文共分六章， 第一章「緒論 」，簡述撰寫本文的動機、過去研究回顧及成果、 以及研究上所面臨的 限制等。第二章「法西斯主義的傳入」， 即是探討法西斯主義傳入中國 及三○年代興起的過程。第三章「國民黨內的態度與爭議」的內容， 即 是國民黨的重要人士的法西斯主義觀，及其在國民黨內引起的爭議， 和 中共在此問題上的因應與策略作一探討與分析。南京中央籌組「藍衣社」 中國的法西斯組織的傳言， 顯然是造成國民黨內反對派系激烈反對法西 斯主義主要原因。 本文第四章「三民主義力行社的成立」，主要係針對 被誤認為「藍衣社」的力行社，其成立的背景、經過、影響及其與法西斯 主義的關係作一釐清。三○年代中國知識份子與國民黨人的獨裁政治思想 內容及其動機分析，即是本文第五章「一元化領袖的確立」所要探討的問 題。第六章「結論」除了將法西斯主義在中國的發展型式， 與其他國家 的法西斯主義作一比較，試圖演繹出些新意之外，最後並對全文作一總結 ，看看法西斯主義對三○年代中國政治究竟發生了那些真正的影響。

Made available in DSpace on 2016-04-26T18:15:12Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Jorge Godoy de Oliveira.pdf: 16800648 bytes, checksum: f0a44c392337b42e3c5efe0ca1d2631a (MD5) Previous issue date: 2015-06-30 / Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico / Printed T-shirt is analyzed in this research as main garment of the subject s clothing composition. Among many brands in fashion market, the US online shop of printed Tshirts Threadless distinguishes itself by its online community, which promotes participation of graphic artists, communication field professionals and general users in several stages of its printed T-shirts production. This process starts by creation of new designs which are submitted to community s polls, goes on by election of designs that most identify with it and results in production and shopping availability of most voted designs. Approved artists are rewarded financially and symbolically by community. Approved designs carry most often pop and popular cultural themes. In Brazil, the online shop of printed T-shirts Chico Rei bets on an own creation team that also products printed T-shirts with the already shown themes, plus it invests on its Country s regional culture as differential mark of its creations. The research corpus is composed by these two shops and analyzed by the period of twelve months. This research s main objective is to inspect how a printed T-shirt becomes a garment that constitutes identities of personal/individual and/or of belonging groups, and how online interactions turned available by both shops intensify their relations with the user. It was verified that signification and meaning construction of a T-shirt design, whether elected by interaction of a potential user inside a community (Threadless) or by a set curatorship with sanction power (Chico Rei) potencialize this T-shirt to act as an actant in interaction with another actant (the one that wears it). There is then a subjectal interaction that unleashes a to feel both concerning the self as concerning the other, able to make the subject to rearrange himself to his everyday life, to put himself in the world with a visuality that holds identity possibilities of belonging to a group, of social prestige and of discoveries of the very subject. The theoretical framework used is discursive semiotics developed by A. J. Greimas and expanded on its narrative and discursive unfoldings by Eric Landowski, and on its plastic and sensible unfoldings by J.-M. Floch and A. C. de Oliveira. Through analysis regarding interaction regimes of the brands in their online shops and of their digital communication it was possible to realize how interaction inside a community builds and supports shared tastes among its members / A camiseta estampada é analisada nesta pesquisa como peça principal da composição vestimentária do sujeito. Entre tantas marcas no mercado da moda, a loja online de camisetas estampadas estadunidense Threadless se destaca por sua comunidade online que estimula a participação de artistas gráficos, profissionais da área da comunicação e usuários em geral em diversas etapas na produção de suas camisetas estampadas. Este processo se inicia pela criação de novas estampas que são submetidas à votação da comunidade, passa pela eleição das estampas que mais se identificam com ela e resulta na produção das estampas mais votadas e sua disponibilização para compra. Os artistas aprovados são premiados financeira e simbolicamente pela comunidade. As estampas aprovadas trazem na maioria dos casos a temática da cultura pop e da cultura popular. No Brasil, a loja online de camisetas estampadas Chico Rei aposta em uma equipe própria de criação que também produz estampas com as temáticas já apresentadas, e investe ainda na cultura regional de seu país como diferencial de suas criações. O corpus é composto por essas duas lojas e analisado pelo período de doze meses. O objetivo principal da pesquisa é investigar como uma camiseta estampada se torna peça vestimentária constitutiva de identidade pessoal/individual e/ou de grupos de pertencimento, e como as interações online disponibilizadas por ambas as marcas intensificam suas relações com o usuário. Constatou-se que a significação e construção de sentido de uma camiseta estampada elegida pela interação de seu potencial usuário em uma comunidade (Threadless) ou por uma curadoria sancionadora estabelecida (Chico Rei) potencializam esta camiseta a atuar como um actante em interação com o outro actante (o que a veste). Tem-se então uma interação subjetal que desencadeia um sentir tanto em relação a si mesmo como em relação ao outro, capaz de fazer o sujeito rearranjar-se para o seu dia a dia, pôr-se no mundo com uma visualidade que guarda possibilidades identitárias, de pertencimento a um grupo, de prestígio social e de descobertas do próprio sujeito. O arcabouço teórico utilizado é da semiótica discursiva desenvolvida por A. J. Greimas e expandida em seus desdobramentos narrativo e discursivo por Eric Landowski e plásticos e sensíveis por J.-M. Floch e A. C. de Oliveira. Pelas análises dos regimes de interação das marcas em suas lojas online e de sua comunicação digital foi possível perceber como a interação em uma comunidade constrói e sustenta gostos compartilhados entre seus membros

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