This thesis addresses the negative cultural and social connotations of natural hair for African American women. This issue is examined throughout history from slavery to present day with a visual analysis of hair care advertisements. Presently, natural hair is gaining more positive implications; which can be affected by creating more positive images with natural hair. Using art as the vehicle for social change and using research to inform art has a positive impact on teaching and learning in the art classroom.

This thesis addresses the negative cultural and social connotations of natural hair for African American women. This issue is examined throughout history from slavery to present day with a visual analysis of hair care advertisements. Presently, natural hair is gaining more positive implications; which can be affected by creating more positive images with natural hair. Using art as the vehicle for social change and using research to inform art has a positive impact on teaching and learning in the art classroom.

O uso de cosméticos com a finalidade de alterar a cor e o formato dos cabelos, como tintura ou alisantes químicos, ocorre com elevada frequência, principalmente entre o público feminino. Porém, esses tratamentos, devido aos seus mecanismos de ação, podem causar danos a estrutura da fibra capilar. Assim, este trabalho teve como objetivo avaliar a extensão dos danos provocados pelo tratamento com tintura capilar oxidativa associado ou não ao uso de alisantes químicos a base de tioglicolato de amônio, hidróxido de sódio ou hidróxido de guanidina. Foram desenvolvidas formulações de tintura capilar oxidativa na cor castanho natural nas formas de emulsão, gel e solução, que foram aplicadas a mechas de cabelo virgens. Após nove procedimentos de lavagem, verificou-se qual formulação apresentava maior poder de cobertura e manutenção de cor e brilho. A formulação escolhida (emulsão) foi aplicada a mechas de cabelo virgens associado ou não aos alisantes químicos. As mechas foram avaliadas quanto a alterações de características como diâmetro, resistência à tensão/deformação, perfil térmico de degradação e perda proteica pelo método BCA, validado conforme os parâmetros linearidade, precisão, exatidão, limite de detecção e de quantificação, e especificidade. Observou-se redução do diâmetro do fio (14%) após a aplicação da tintura. Os alisamentos com o hidróxido de guanidina e tioglicolato de amônio promoveram aumento de diâmetro do fio (124,2 e 25,7%, respectivamente), sendo que após aplicação da tintura houve redução (10,7 e 18,8%, respectivamente). O hidróxido de sódio também provocou aumento inicial no diâmetro (106,1%), mas com posterior aumento após aplicação da tintura (8,8%). Quanto aos ensaios de resistência, observou-se elevação de resistência mecânica nas mechas tingidas, em comparação às virgens, o que pode sugerir aumento na massa interna da córtex, devido à deposição dos polímeros coloridos no interior do fio do cabelo. Nas mechas tratadas com os alisantes, houve redução desse parâmetro. Na análise térmica por TG/DTG foram observados quatro picos, sendo que em mechas tingidas houve deslocamento do pico do quarto evento, provavelmente devido à presença do polímero sintético formado no interior do fio de cabelo. O perfil da curva DTA de todos as mechas tratadas com alisante químico foi semelhante e observou-se que para as mechas submetidas à tintura capilar, foi necessária maior energia para ocorrer o último evento exotérmico próximo a 600ºC. A aplicação da tintura teve grande influência sobre a perda proteica na mecha virgem, aumentando este parâmetro em 48%. Entre os produtos de alisamento testados, hidróxido de sódio promoveu maior perda de proteína, cerca de 276% maior do que o cabelo virgem e 207% maior do que o cabelo tingido. Estes resultados podem indicar que, quando se desejar aplicar os dois tipos de produto (alisante e tintura), o tioglicolato de amônio ou hidróxido de guanidina podem ser opções mais interessantes / The use of cosmetics in order to change the color and shape of the hair, such as dye or chemical straighteners, occurs with high frequency , especially among women. However, these treatments, due to their mechanisms of action, can damage the structure of the hair fiber. This study aimed to evaluate the extent of damage caused by treatment with oxidative hair dye with or without the use of chemical straighteners based on ammonium thioglycolate, sodium hydroxide or guanidine hydroxide. Oxidative hair dye formulations in natural brown color were developed in emulsion, gel and solution and were applied to virgin hair tresses. After nine washing procedures, tresses were analyzed in relation to brightness and color maintenance. The chosen formulation (emulsion) was applied to virgin hair tresses associated or not to chemical straighteners. They were evaluated for characteristics such as diameter, tensile stress/strain, thermal degradation profile and protein loss by the BCA method, validated according to the parameters linearity, precision, accuracy , limit of detection and quantification, and specificity. It was observed reduction of the diameter (14%) after application of the dye hair. The straightening with guanidine hydroxide and ammonium thioglycolate caused an increase in diameter of the fiber (124.2 and 25.7%, respectively), while both treatments reduced this parameter (10.7 and 18.8%, respectively). The sodium hydroxide also caused an initial increase in diameter (106.1%), but with further increase after application of the dye (8.8%). In relation to mechanical properties, it was observed increase of resistance in comparison to virgin, which might suggest an increase in mass of the inner cortex due to the deposition of the pigment. In tresses treated with the straighteners, it was observed a reduction of this parameter. In the thermal analysis by TG/DTG four peaks were observed, including a peak shift of the fourth event in dyed tresses probably due to the presence of the synthetic polymer formed within the hair. The profile of the DTA curve of all tresses was similar, except for dyed hair because more energy was required for the last exothermic event at 600°C. The application of the dye had great influence on protein loss in the virgin tresses, increasing this parameter by 48%. Among the straightening products tested, sodium hydroxide promoted greater loss of protein, about 276% greater than the virgin hair, and 207% greater than the dyed hair. These results may indicate that when it is desired to apply both types of product (straightening and dye), ammonium thioglycolate or guanidine hydroxide can be most interesting options.

A fibra capilar está exposta a danos diários, como radiação solar, poluição, ato de pentear, higienização e fatores endógenos, além de tratamentos químicos, com o alisamento capilar. Assim, os produtos cosméticos possuem grande importância, uma vez que são desenvolvidos de forma a restaurar a fibra capilar danificada, que é mais porosa e hidrofílica, e proteger os cabelos de danos futuros. Os óleos vegetais destacam-se como importantes constituintes de produtos cosméticos, seguindo uma tendência mundial de incorporar ingredientes naturais em formulações para cuidados da pele e cabelos. Nesse contexto, o objetivo do presente trabalho foi desenvolver formulações cosméticas contendo óleos vegetais para a proteção e reparação capilar. Para tal, foram selecionados os óleos vegetais de abacate, argan e moringa, e desenvolvidas formulações contendo os óleos isolados ou associados, para aplicação em cabelos submetidos ao alisamento químico. Além disso, na etapa de pré-tratamento, foi incorporado um filtro solar às formulações. Em seguida, foi feito um direcionamento racional da escolha da formulação com maior potencial para ser utilizada nas etapas posteriores, usando a análise sensorial em mechas de cabelo e avaliação das propriedades mecânicas do fio. A formulação contendo a associação dos 3 óleos vegetais foi selecionada e, então, submetida aos estudos de estabilidade e reologia. Ao final das análises, as formulações mais adequadas à proposta do estudo foram selecionadas e aplicadas em mechas de cabelo submetidas a radiação solar, em duas etapas: pré e pós-tratamento, em relação à indução do dano. Com isso, o objetivo foi verificar se os cosméticos desenvolvidos teriam efeitos na prevenção ou recuperação dos danos causados pela radiação solar. Assim, foram avaliadas imagens obtidas por meio de Microscopia Eletrônica de Varredura, além da resistência mecânica do fio, dosagem da perda de triptofano por avaliação da intensidade de fluorescência e medidas da variação da cor da fibra capilar. Observou-se que os melhores resultados obtidos com os óleos vegetais foi na avaliação da resistência capilar, enquanto a adição do filtro solar teve impacto positivo também na redução da degradação do triptofano. Além disso, de maneira geral, os resultados indicam que o pré-tratamento foi mais eficaz em proteger a fibra capilar, quando comparado à capacidade de recuperar os danos por meio do pós-tratamento. Entretanto, o pós-tratamento foi importante para melhoria das propriedades sensoriais e para proteção de danos futuros. Com isso, dentre as formulações desenvolvidas, a que continha a associação dos óleos vegetais e do filtro solar, utilizada na etapa de prétratamento, foi a que levou aos melhores resultados, quando aplicada em mechas de cabelo. / Hair is a very important and distinctive feature that plays a major role in self perception and is part of the individual\'s identity. The hair fiber is exposed to daily damage, such as solar radiation, pollution and grooming, and endogenous factors, besides chemical treatments such as hair straightening. Therefore, cosmetic products are of great importance, since they are developed to restore the damaged hair fiber and to protect the hair from further damage. Vegetable oils stand out as important cosmetic ingredients, following a global trend to add natural ingredients in formulations for skin and hair care. In this context, the aim of this study was to develop cosmetic formulations containing vegetable oils for hair protection and repairing . For this purpose, three vegetable oils (avocado, argan and moringa oil) were selected for the development of cosmetic formulations for use in straightened hair. After that, the most suitable formulation was selected based on the results of sensory analysis and mechanical properties evaluation on hair tresses. The formulation containing the combination of 3 vegetable oils was selected and then evaluated in terms of stability studies and rheological behaviour. This way, the most appropriate formulations were selected and applied to strands of hair exposed to solar radiation in two different stages: pre and post-treatment in relation to the induction of the damage. Thus, the objective was to verify if the developed formulations would have effects in the prevention or repairing of solar damage hair. For this purpose, observations in Scanning Electron Microscopy, tensile properties evaluation, tryptophan degradation, and color measurements of the hair fiber were performed. Regarding the vegetable oils, the best results were found in the the tensile properties evaluation, whereas the addition of sunscreen had a positive impact on the assessment of the tensile properties evaluation and in the tryptophan degradation analysis, as well. Moreover, the results indicate that the pre-treatment was most effective than the post-treatment. Nevertheless, the posttreatment was important to improve the sensory properties. Thus, among the developed formulations, the one containing the combination of vegetable oils and the sunscreen, used in the pre-treatment, led to the best results when applied to hair tresses.

Today is on products from the perspective of quality placed an increasing emphasis. This work is focused to the analyze of cross roll straghtening of long semifinished products with a circular cross-section. This process increased quality of semifinished products from the perspective of their curvature, because they do not reach the required limit values. Curvature of the semifinished product is due to residual stress, which is during straghtening using plastic deformation of the material redistributed and the semifinished product is leveled. This work analyzes the effect of rotation of straightening rolls on the distributiom of contact pressure between the straightening semifinished product and the roll of straightener. Author then analyzes effect of input parameters of program to straightening at the final curvature of the semifinished product. With the experience gained, then try to adjust some input parameters.

The objective of this master´s thesis is to design machines for straightening rods of circular cross section with a diameter of 10 mm to 50 mm, length 6 m to 9 m. Machine concept is as the simplest as possible with a large proportion of welded elements

The increasing demands for lightweight designs with high strength call for improved manufacturing processes regarding heat treatment of steel. The manufacturing process has considerable potential to improve the mechanical performance and to obtain more reliable results with less variation. The goal of this thesis is to establish new knowledge regarding improved manufacturing processes in industrial heat treatment applications. Three research questions with associated hypotheses are formulated. Process experiments, evaluation of the mechanical performance, and modelling of the fatigue behaviour assist in answering the questions. The gas quenching procedure following low-pressure carburising differs from the conventional procedure of gas carburising and oil quenching. It is shown that the introduction of a holding time during the low-temperature part of the quench has a positive effect on mechanical properties, with some 20 percent increase in fatigue strength. This is attributed to increased compressive surface residual stress and stabilisation of austenite. Tempering is a common manufacturing process step following hardening in order to increase the toughness of the steel. However, the research shows that the higher hardness from eliminating tempering from the manufacturing process is beneficial for contact fatigue resistance. The untempered steel showed not only less contact fatigue damage but also a different contact fatigue mechanism. Straightening of elongated components is made after heat treatment in order to compensate for distortions. The research shows that straightening of induction hardened shafts may lead to lowering of the fatigue strength of up to 20 percent. A fracture mechanics based model is developed to estimate the effects of straightening on fatigue strength. / Ökande krav på höghållfasta lättviktskonstruktioner kräver förbättrade tillverkningsprocesser för värmebehandling av stål. Det finns stor potential att förbättra mekanisk prestanda och att erhålla mer tillförlitliga resultat med mindre variation genom att förbättra tillverkningsprocessen. Målet med denna avhandling är att etablera ny kunskap kring tillverkningsprocesser inom industriella värmebehandlingsapplikationer. Tre forskningsfrågor med tillhörande hypoteser formuleras. Processexperiment, utvärdering av mekanisk hållfasthet och modellering av utmattningsbeteende bygger upp besvarandet av frågorna. Gaskylning som följer lågtrycksuppkolning skiljer sig från det konventionella förfarandet med gasuppkolning och släckning i olja. Resultaten visar att en hålltid i den nedre delen av kylningsförloppet har positiv inverkan på utmattningshållfastheten. Orsaken till förbättringen hänförs till ökade tryckrestspänningar samt stabilisering av austenit. Anlöpning är en vanlig tillverkningsprocess som efterföljer härdning för att öka stålets seghet. Forskningen visar däremot att den högre hårdheten för oanlöpt stål är fördelaktig för motstånd mot kontaktutmattning. Oanlöpt stål visade mindre mängd kontaktutmattningsskador och även en annan skademekanism. Riktning av långa komponenter görs efter värmebehandling för att kompensera för de formförändringar som uppstår. Forskningen visar att riktning av induktionshärdade axlar kan leda till sänkning av utmattningshållfastheten med upp till 20 procent. En brottmekanisk modell som uppskattar effekten av riktning på utmattningshållfasthet presenteras. / <p>QC 20150410</p>

Analytical methods or implicit finite element method (FEM) with beam elements to model straightened bar were used to analyze straightening process in multi-staggered cross-roll straighteners up to now. These are effective but require certain simplifications. Aim of this thesis is to create an explicit FEM model allowing usage of solid elements for circular bar without disproportional increase of computational time. This may lead to deeper understanding of the straightening process. The model is to be verified using straightening tables and then used to quantify influence of rollers configuration on results of the straightening process.

В работе приведены основные свойства и виды плоских полуфабрикатов из алюминия и алюминиевых сплавов. Рассмотрена технология производства плоских полуфабрикатов, технология и оборудование для проведения правки растяжением. Приведены новые патентные разработки в области прокатки плоских полуфабрикатов из алюминиевых сплавов. Представлены результаты исследования неравномерности деформации в процессе правки растяжением листового проката из алюминиевых сплавов. Приведено решение задачи правки растяжением полос из алюминиевых сплавов методом конечных элементов в программном комплексе ABAQUS с целью определения уровня деформаций. Выполнен анализ распределения деформаций при правке растяжением горячекатаных полос из алюминиевых сплавов. Неодинаковые значения деформаций по координатным направлениям объяснены с позиций анизотропии свойств прокатанных полос. / The paper presents the main properties and types of flat semi-finished products made of aluminum and aluminum alloys. The technology of production of flat semi-finished products, technology and equipment for straightening by stretching are considered. New patent developments in the field of rolling flat semi-finished products from aluminum alloys are presented. The paper presents the results of a study of the non-uniformity of deformation in the process of tensile straightening of sheet metal made of aluminum alloys. The solution of the problem of tensile straightening of strips of aluminum alloys by the finite element method in the ABAQUS software package is presented in order to determine the level of deformations. The analysis of the strain distribution during tensile straightening of hot-rolled strips of aluminum alloys is carried out. Unequal values of deformations along coordinate directions are explained from the standpoint of anisotropy of properties of rolled strips.

No description available.