O glutaraldeído tem sido amplamente utilizado para reticulação química da gelatina, no entanto, substâncias de origem natural têm sido propostas como agentes reticulantes de melhor biocompatibilidade. Uma alternativa viável são os polifenois tais como os flavonois que também apresentam o potencial de sinergia com filtros solares e agentes antioxidantes utilizados em formulações cosméticas. No presente trabalho, microesferas de gelatina obtidas por polimerização em emulsão utilizando tensoativo e extração com solvente foram reticuladas com 10 mM de glutaraldeído (GTA) ou com 10 mM rutina (RUT) dissolvidos em acetona:NaOH 0,01 M. As características físico-químicas foram avaliadas por meio de: microscopia eletrônica de varredura, determinação do potencial de intumescimento por microscopia óptica comum, determinação de grupos aminos livres por reação com ácido 2,4,6- trinitrobenzenossulfônico, determinação de área superficial e porosidade por adsorção gasosa, determinação de densidade verdadeira por picnometria de gás hélio, distribuição granulometria por difração a laser, termogravimetria e análise térmica diferencial. Devido a interferentes, não foi possível mensurar a extensão de reticulação das microesferas reticuladas com RUT, porém os demais resultados obtidos sugerem que ocorreu reticulação mas em menor extensão que o GTA. A aplicabilidade em fotoproteção foi avaliada in vitro por espectrofotometria de refletância difusa em dispersões oleosas contendo benzofenona-3 e/ou octilmetoxicinamato. Os resultados observados indicaram que na concentração de 5% p/p as microesferas não reticuladas ou reticuladas com GTA ou RUT não apresentam eficácia fotoprotetora ou efeito sinérgico com os filtros químicos estudados. / Glutaraldehyde has been widely used as gelatin chemical cross-linking agent. However new natural cross-linking agents has been proposed as a more biocompatible source. Polyphenols are feasible candidates and the flavonols also exhibit potential synergism with sunscreens and antioxidant agents used in cosmetics formulations. In this study, gelatin microspheres obtained by polymerization in water-in-oil emulsion technique with tensoative and extraction with solvent were crosslinked with glutaraldehyde 10 mM (GTA) or with rutin 10 mM (RUT) solved in acetone:NaOH 0,01M. The physicochemical properties were evaluated by: scanning electron microscopy, swelling potential by optical microscopy, degree of cross-linking by 2,4,6-trinitro-benzensulfonic acid, surface area and porosity by gas adsorption, true density by hellium pycnometry, granulometry by laser light diffraction, thermogravimetry and differential scanning calorimetry. Due to interferents, was not possible to measure degree of cross-linking of gelatin microspheres crosslinked with RUT, however other findings suggest that crosslinking has occurred but in a lower degree than GTA crosslinking. Applicability in sun protection was evaluated in vitro by diffuse transmitance measurements in oily dispersion with benzophenone-3 and/or octyl methoxycinnamate. These results showed that at 5% w/w gelatin microspheres crosslinked with GTA or RUT did not exhibit sun protection efficacy or synergism with UV chemical filters that were evaluated.

A exposição crônica à radiação solar pode contribuir para o aparecimento do câncer de pele, sendo o uso de fotoprotetores um fator primordial na prevenção desses efeitos deletérios. Atualmente, substâncias bioativas tais como a rutina têm sido foco de interesse da comunidade científica graças às suas propriedades fotoprotetoras e antioxidantes, que podem promover aumento dos valores de FPS, além de conferir características multifuncionais às formulações. Achados in vitro recentes indicam que a rutina, quando incorporada em emulsões fotoprotetoras óleo em água, promove aumento da atividade antioxidante e aumento do FPS. No entanto, a realização de estudos clínicos é fundamental para confirmar e quantificar esses resultados, já que a metodologia in vitro possui baixa repetibilidade e ausência de correlação com ensaios in vivo, principalmente quando as formulações analisadas apresentam substâncias antioxidantes em sua composição. O objetivo deste estudo foi avaliar pela primeira vez a atividade da rutina frente ao FPS e sua segurança clínica através da comparação de formulações fotoprotetoras contendo rutina 0.1% (w/w), avobenzona 3.0% (w/w) e octil dimetil PABA 8.0% (w/w) com uma preparação similar sem o composto bioativo. Adicionalmente, hidratação cutânea, FPS in vitro e atividade antioxidante da rutina em associação com outros filtros foram investigados. O perfil de segurança das formulações qualificou as fórmulas para os testes de eficácia clínica. O teste de DPPH confirmou a capacidade antioxidante da rutina, demonstrando cerca de 40% de aumento na capacidade de sequestro de radicais livres na presença do composto bioativo. A rutina em combinação com os filtros UV aumentou o FPS clínico de 7.30 ± 0.60 para 12.37 ± 1.13, o que representa cerca de 70% de aumento. Os resultados encontrados provam que a rutina em combinação com outros filtros pode aumentar significativamente o valor do FPS e que a mesma é segura para uso clínico. / Unprotected chronic exposure to solar radiation can contribute to premature skin cancer and sunscreens are a key factor to avoid those detrimental effects. Currently, there is a growing interest in the photoprotector and antioxidant potential of bioactive substances, such as rutin, that could help to increase the SPF value and add multifunctional characteristics to the formulations. Recent in vitro findings indicated that rutin, when incorporated in oil-in-water photoprotective emulsions can provide antioxidant activity and SPF increase. However, clinical studies are fundamental to determine this activity duo to in vitro methodology lack of repeatability and correlation between the in vivo data, especially when the analyzed formulas contain antioxidant substances. The aim of this study was to evaluate for the first time to date the rutin in vivo SPF and clinical safety by comparing sunscreens formulations containing rutin 0.1% (w/w), butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 3.0% (w/w) and octyl dimethylPABA 8.0% (w/w) with a similar bioactive-free preparation. Additionally, skin hydration, in vitro SPF and in vitro antioxidant activity of rutin, in association with the UV filters were investigated. The safety profile of the formulations under sun-exposed skin conditions qualified the formulas for clinical efficacy assays. DPPH test confirmed rutin antioxidant properties, demonstrating about 40% increase in radical scavenging potential when the bioactive compound was present. Rutin in combination with the UV filters increased the clinical SPF from 7.30 ± 0.60 to 12.37 ± 1.13, representing about 70% growth in the SPF value. The results obtained proved that rutin in combination with UV filters can improve the SPF value significantly and is safe for clinical use.

In this thesis two issues in nanotechnology have been addressed. The first is the comprehensive characterization of engineered nanomaterials prior to their examination in toxicology and environmental studies. The second is the development of a method to produce nanostructure arrays over large areas and for low cost. A major challenge when assessing nanomaterial’s risks is the robust characterization of their physicochemical properties, particularly in commercial products. Such data allows the critical features for biological outcomes to be determined. This work focused on the inorganic oxides that were studied in powdered and dispersed forms as well as directly in consumer sunscreen products. The most important finding was that the commercial sunscreens that listed titania or zinc oxide as ingredients contained nanoscale materials. Cell free photochemical tests revealed that ZnO particles without any surface coating were more active at generating ROS than surface coated TiO2 nanoparticles. These studies make clear the importance of exposure studies that examine the native form of nanomaterials directly in commercial products. The second part of this thesis presents the development of a new method to fabricate gold nanoring and nanocrescent arrays over large areas; such materials have unique optical properties consonant with those described as metamaterials. A new shaped nanosphere lithography approach was used to manipulate the form of silica nanospheres packed onto a surface; the resulting array of mushroom structures provided a mask that after gold evaporation and etching left either golden rings or crescents over the surface. The structures had tunable features, with outer diameters ranging from 200 to 350 nm for rings and crescent gap angles of ten to more than a hundred degrees. The use of a double mask method ensured the uniform coverage of these structured over 1 cm2 areas. Experimental and theoretical investigations of the optical properties of the arrays revealed the optical resonances in the infrared region. Finally, in the course of developing the nanorings, etch conditions were developed to deposit large area arrays of polystyrene nanodoughnuts with diameters from 128 to 242 nm. These non-conductive structures provide an ideal template for further attachment of magnetic of optically emissive nanoparticles.

Insect repellent N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide (DEET) and sunscreen oxybenzone are commonly incorporated into commercially available repellent and sunscreen preparations. Both compounds have demonstrated an increased percutaneous permeation and systemic disposition after concurrent application in vitro and in vivo. The permeation enhancement between DEET and oxybenzone not only compromises their respective protective efficacy against biting insects and UV radiation, but also potentiates toxicological properties in susceptible subjects. The pharmacokinetic and toxicological profiles from concurrent use of DEET and oxybenzone were evaluated and compared in this thesis. DEET and oxybenzone were administered by intravenous and topical routes in rats, either alone and/or in combination, to compare the pharmacokinetics of parent compounds and their primary metabolites in vivo. To evaluate toxicological characteristics, rat primary cortical neurons and astrocytes, and rat hepatoma 1548 cells were exposed to DEET, oxybenzone and their metabolites in vitro, and cell viability was analyzed. Various behavioral testing protocols were also performed to assess arousal, locomotion, habituation, and motor coordination of rats over a 30-day study period. Concurrent topical application of DEET and oxybenzone enhanced the disposition of DEET and its metabolites in rats, but did not consistently affect the distribution of oxybenzone and its metabolites. The disappearance of DEET from skin application site was accelerated; its apparent elimination half-life was decreased while its plasma and tissue concentrations were predominantly increased. Cellular toxicity occurred at 1 μg/ml for neurons and 7-day exposure for both astrocytes and neurons. Viability of hepatoma cells was also reduced when treated with DEET, oxybenzone and their metabolites, either alone or in combination, most notably after 72 hours of exposure. However, no overt signs of toxicity were observed from behavioral testing in rats after a 30-day topical study. The pharmacokinetic data obtained was beneficial in understanding and elucidating absorption and biodistribution of DEET and oxybenzone in vivo. The toxicological data suggested that the risk for increasing adverse effects from concurrent skin application of repellents and sunscreens would be low and marginal in healthy individuals. Nevertheless, further studies should be carried out to assess the long-term health impact of these compounds in susceptible subjects, especially at higher application doses.

Insect repellent N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide (DEET) and sunscreen oxybenzone are commonly incorporated into commercially available repellent and sunscreen preparations. Both compounds have demonstrated an increased percutaneous permeation and systemic disposition after concurrent application in vitro and in vivo. The permeation enhancement between DEET and oxybenzone not only compromises their respective protective efficacy against biting insects and UV radiation, but also potentiates toxicological properties in susceptible subjects. The pharmacokinetic and toxicological profiles from concurrent use of DEET and oxybenzone were evaluated and compared in this thesis. DEET and oxybenzone were administered by intravenous and topical routes in rats, either alone and/or in combination, to compare the pharmacokinetics of parent compounds and their primary metabolites in vivo. To evaluate toxicological characteristics, rat primary cortical neurons and astrocytes, and rat hepatoma 1548 cells were exposed to DEET, oxybenzone and their metabolites in vitro, and cell viability was analyzed. Various behavioral testing protocols were also performed to assess arousal, locomotion, habituation, and motor coordination of rats over a 30-day study period. Concurrent topical application of DEET and oxybenzone enhanced the disposition of DEET and its metabolites in rats, but did not consistently affect the distribution of oxybenzone and its metabolites. The disappearance of DEET from skin application site was accelerated; its apparent elimination half-life was decreased while its plasma and tissue concentrations were predominantly increased. Cellular toxicity occurred at 1 μg/ml for neurons and 7-day exposure for both astrocytes and neurons. Viability of hepatoma cells was also reduced when treated with DEET, oxybenzone and their metabolites, either alone or in combination, most notably after 72 hours of exposure. However, no overt signs of toxicity were observed from behavioral testing in rats after a 30-day topical study. The pharmacokinetic data obtained was beneficial in understanding and elucidating absorption and biodistribution of DEET and oxybenzone in vivo. The toxicological data suggested that the risk for increasing adverse effects from concurrent skin application of repellents and sunscreens would be low and marginal in healthy individuals. Nevertheless, further studies should be carried out to assess the long-term health impact of these compounds in susceptible subjects, especially at higher application doses.

Une crème solaire, ayant pour objectif de filtrer les UV, est un système complexe, à plusieurs phases, contenant deux types de filtres : des filtres dits chimiques - c'est-à-dire des molécules absorbantes - et des réflecteurs (comme le TiO2), protégeant par diffusion de la lumière. Afin d'évaluer l'efficacité des produits, des mesures d'indice de protection (IP ou SPF) existent ; la crème est placée in vivo sur différents phénotypes de peau ou in vitro sur un support plastique en PMMA.Afin de modéliser la protection solaire, nous avons cherché à connaitre la répartition de la crème sur son support. Nous avons pour cela utilisé l'OCT (Tomographie à Cohérence Optique) avec un support plastique métallisé, permettant d'améliorer le contraste des images.Ceci nous a alors permis, en connaissant les paramètres des différents filtres chimiques ou particulaires, de modéliser la transmission de la crème sur son support la peau ou le PMMA. Nous avons pour cela utilisé la méthode différentielle, une méthode de calcul de diffusion de la lumière permettant de traiter une structure bidimensionnelle.Nous avons alors pu comparer nos résultats de calcul avec des mesures de protection, étudier l'influence de quelques caractéristiques des particules comme la taille ou le matériau utilisé, ou bien encore évaluer l'effet de l'hydratation de la couche la plus externe de la peau sur la protection solaire. Nous avons par ailleurs cherché à améliorer la vitesse et le champ d'application des calculs en comparant les résultats obtenus par la méthode différentielle avec d'autres modèles (diffusion de la lumière par des tiges ou théorie de Mie). / Sunscreens, an emulsion of several phases, are used as UV filters in order to protect people from sun damages. Filters can be divided in two types: the chemical ones which are organic molecules that absorb selectively ultraviolet light and the physical ones (such as TiO2) which are inorganic particles that scatter and may absorb some of the UV radiation. The sunscreen quality is given by the sun protection factor (SPF), measured in vivo. In order to avoid long and complicated tests, a quick and simple in vitro method, using a plastic substrate, has been established, which gives an approximation of the SPF. In order to model the sunscreen protection, we had to evaluate the sunscreen distribution. We used an OCT (for Optical Coherence Tomography) device, after having spread a metallic thin on the substrate before applying the sunscreen. Theses images helped us to model the cream transmission on the skin or the plastic substrate, using the differential method which can calculate the scattering of light through a 2D structure.We then compared our results to measurements, but also studied the impact of several particles specifications, such as the size or the material of the particle, or study the effect of the skin hydration on the UV protection.Furthermore, we have compared our results to other calculation methods (Mie scattering or scattering by a set of parallel cylinders) in order to improve the calculation time and try a 3D-method.

Made available in DSpace on 2014-06-11T19:29:09Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 0 Previous issue date: 2008-08-21Bitstream added on 2014-06-13T20:38:28Z : No. of bitstreams: 1 cruz_fml_me_araiq.pdf: 1321120 bytes, checksum: 97fc084280e39f22c4717c39c1381965 (MD5) / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES) / O estudo de protetores solares, através da obtenção de novos filtros orgânicos, inorgânicos ou híbridos tem atraído atenção nos últimos anos para a ampliação da faixa de reflexão e absorção da radiação UV. Neste trabalho, partículas de sílica com tamanho médio em torno de 100 nm, 150 nm e 250 nm, foram obtidas pelo método sol-gel a partir do precursor tetraetilortossilicato, TEOS e foram feitas tentativas de reação com o filtro orgânico acido p-amino benzóico, PABA, seguindo diferentes procedimentos. As técnicas de caracterização utilizadas foram espectroscopias de absorção, vibracional no infravermelho e eletrônica na região do visível e ultravioleta, ressonância magnética nuclear de silício, microscopia eletrônica de transmissão e medidas de potencial zeta. Observa-se que quanto maior o diâmetro médio das partículas melhor é sua formação e maior a relação de grupos ≡SiOH em relação aos grupos ≡SiOSi≡. Dentre todos os métodos testados para a ligação direta entre PABA e as partículas de sílica, observa-se através de espectroscopias de absorção, eletrônica e vibracional, que mesmo sob refluxo em diferentes tempos e atmosferas, há a presença do PABA apenas nos casos em que o numero de lavagens é menor. A funcionalização da sílica com o 3-cloropropil-trimetoxissilano para atuar como ponte entre o PABA e a sílica não ocorreu como observado através da ressonância magnética nuclear de Si, embora de acordo com medidas de potencial zeta as partículas tenham se mostrado reativas em uma faixa grande de pH. Fez-se formulações de foto protetor utilizando PABA e as amostras de sílica com tamanho de aproximadamente 150 nm e 250 nm. Destas formulações fez-se apenas observações qualitativas. / The sunscreens study, through the acquisition of new organic, inorganic or hybrid filters is attracting attention in recent years to expand the range of reflection and absorption of UV radiation. In this work, silica particles with average size around 100 nm, 150 nm, and 250 nm were obtained by the sol-gel method from the parent tetraethyl orthosilicate, TEOS and attempts have been made to react with the organic p-amino benzoic acid, PABA, filter following different procedures. The techniques, infrared vibrational spetroscopy and electronic spectroscopy in the region of the visible and ultraviolet, nuclear magnetic resonance of silicon, transmission electron microscopy and zeta potential measurement were used to characterize the samples. It appears that the higher the average diameter of the particles is better their training and greater respect for the ≡SiOH groups, for ≡SiOSi≡ groups. Among all tested methods for the direct bond between PABA and silica particles, it is seen through the absorption spectroscopy, electronic and vibrational, that even under reflux time and in different atmospheres, there is the presence of PABA only in cases where the number of sample washes is lower. The functionality of silica with the 3-cloropropil-trimetoxissilano to act as a bridge between the PABA and silica did not occur as observed by nuclear magnetic resonance of Si. According to measures of the zeta potential negative charged particles have been shown on a large range pH. There was a picture formulation using protective PABA and the samples of silica with a size of approximately 150 nm and 250 nm. These formulations made up allow only qualitative observations.

Made available in DSpace on 2014-06-11T19:29:10Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 0 Previous issue date: 2010-12-20Bitstream added on 2014-06-13T20:19:01Z : No. of bitstreams: 1 pasqualotto_s_me_araiq.pdf: 3001560 bytes, checksum: 03f70975a62c3defd4e56c0d98704458 (MD5) / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES) / A preocupação com a radiação ultra-violeta (UV) do espectro eletromagnético que atinge a superfície terrestre, devido ao aumento do índice de câncer de pele, tem incentivado a pesquisa de produtos para a proteção da pele. Este trabalho tem como objetivo a obtenção e estudo do filtro inorgânico ZnO:Ti4+ com 1, 5, 10, 20, 40, 50% em mol do dopante e a associação dos filtros dopados obtidos com o filtro orgânico 1-(4-terc-butilfenil)-3-(4- metoxifenil)propano-1,3-diona ou butil metoxi dibenzoil metano (bmdm), comercialmente denominado Eusolex 9020. Os filtros dopados foram obtidos pelo método sol-gel, com razão de hidrólise de 0,1 e de 0,01. As amostras foram caracterizadas por espectroscopia de absorção através de medidas de refletância difusa (RD), espectroscopia na região do infravermelho (IV), espectroscopia na região do ultravioleta – visível (UV-Vís), difratometria de raios X (DRX), colorimetria, medidas de potencial zeta, razão UVA/UVB e comprimento de onda crítico foram calculados para conhecer o desempenho dos filtros na região do UVA. Os resultados de DRX indicam a formação da fase ZnO wurtzita para dopagens de até 10%. Acima dessa porcentagem de “dopante”, observa-se a formação de fases de titanatos de zinco (Zn2TiO4 e ZnTiO3). Os espectros no IV apresentam bandas referentes à ligação metaloxigênio deslocadas para maiores números de onda com o aumento da quantidade de dopante, devido ao efeito da força de ligação e do tamanho do íon de titânio em relação ao de zinco nas interações metal-oxigênio. Os espectros de RD apresentam deslocamento das bandas para a região do visível. Os filtros dopados obtidos foram, então, associados com o filtro orgânico bmdm. Os filtros associados foram caracterizados pelas mesmas técnicas acima descritas. Nos espectros IV dos filtros... / The concern with UV radiation of the electromagnetic spectrum that reaches the earth's surface has encouraged the research of products for skin protection due to increased rates of skin cancer. This study aims to obtain and study the inorganic filter ZnO:Ti4+ with 1, 5, 10, 20, 40, 50 at% of doping and the association with doped filters developed through organic filter 1 - (4-tert- butyl phenyl) -3 - (4-methoxyphenyl) propane-1 ,3-dione or butyl methoxy dibenzoyl methane (bmdm), trade name Eusolex 9020®. Doped filters were obtained by the sol-gel method, with hydrolysis ratio of 0.1 and 0.01. The samples were characterized by absorption spectroscopy using diffuse reflectance (DR), infrared (IR) spectroscopy, ultraviolet - visible (UV-Vis), X-ray diffraction (XRD), colorimetric and zeta potential measurements. UVA/UVB ratio and critical wavelength were calculated to know the filter’s performance in the UVA region. XRD results indicate the ZnO wurtzite phase formation step for doping levels up to 10%. Above this percentage of doping, phases of zinc titanates (Zn2TiO4 and ZnTiO3) we observed. The IR spectra show bands of the metal-oxygen shifted to higher wave numbers and an increasing amount of dopant due to the bond strength and size effects of the titanium ion compared to zinc ion in metaloxygen interactions. The RD spectra show shifts of bands for the visible region. Doped filters were then associated with the bmdm organic filter. The associated filters were characterized by the same techniques just described above. In the IR spectra of the associated filters, there is also the band on the metal-oxygen, splitting and shifting of the band related to the carbonyl group when compared with the free bmdm, that indicates an association between the filters. The absorption bands of doped filters do not cover... (Complete abstract click electronic access below)

FundaÃÃo Cearense de Apoio ao Desenvolvimento Cientifico e TecnolÃgico / As cactÃceas sÃo compostas por um grupo de plantas abundantes nas regiÃes do semiÃrido. Demonstram bastante especificidade com relaÃÃo ao seu habitat e possuem uma sÃrie de adaptaÃÃes morfolÃgicas e fisiolÃgicas que permitem a sua sobrevivÃncia em ambientes com dÃficit em nutrientes e Ãgua, alÃm de suportar intensa radiaÃÃo solar (FPS). Dessa forma o objetivo deste trabalho foi avaliar o efeito do Fator de ProteÃÃo Solar possivelmente presente em hastes de Cereus jamacaru, verificar a sua porcentagem de atividade antioxidante, testar a toxicidade atravÃs do teste preliminar com Artemia salina e verificar a composiÃÃo quÃmica do extrato atravÃs do infravermelho. Primeiramente foi preparado o material vegetal de Cereus jamacaru resultando em extrato bruto, derivado de coletas durante o dia (11h) e coletas durante a noite (23h). ApÃs isso foi realizado extraÃÃes com etanol a 70% e 95% v/v para ambos os horÃrios de coleta. Resultando em: ECD 95%, ECD 70%, ECN 95% e ECN 70%. Os espectros no infravermelho foram verificados tanto para o extrato bruto, quanto para as fraÃÃes liofilizadas, as bandas de absorÃÃo foram obtidas em comprimento de onda na faixa de 4000 a 400 cm-1. Para o teste de FPS in vitro, as amostras foram diluÃdas atà a concentraÃÃo final de 0,2 mg/mL, e as absorbÃncias determinadas na faixa de 220 a 450 nm, com intervalos de 2 nm. A atividade antioxidante foi avaliada atravÃs do mÃtodo de sequestro de radicais livres DPPH (2,2-difenil-1-picrilhidrazila), sendo realizados testes para as quatro amostras nas concentraÃÃes de 5 a 2000Âg.mL-1 em triplicata. As leituras das absorbÃncias foram realizadas a 517 nm. A partir do resultado foi calculado a porcentagem de atividade antioxidante (AA%). Todas as amostras foram submetidas ao teste de toxicidade com Artemia salina, nas seguintes concentraÃÃes de (1000, 500, 250, 125 e 62,5μg.mL-1). Logo apÃs verificada a mortalidade dos nÃuplios com 24 e 48h. Com relaÃÃo ao infravermelho foram verificados picos de absorÃÃo diferentes quando comparados tanto o horÃrio de coleta quanto a porcentagem de diluiÃÃo do solvente. Para o teste de FPS todas as amostras demonstraram atividade fotoprotetora sendo que na amostra (ECD 95%) foi verificado uma maior absorÃÃo na regiÃo do ultravioleta (UV) com FPS-15,72. As amostras demonstraram uma maior atividade antioxidante comparado ao β-caroteno, na maioria das concentraÃÃes testadas. Os testes de toxicidade com Artemia salina resultaram em valores para a concentraÃÃo letal mÃdia (CL50), >1000; 906,32; 622,30; 762,44 Âg mL-1 para os extratos (ECD 95%, ECD 70%, ECN 95% e ECN 70%) respectivamente, apÃs 24h. A amostra ECD 95% mostrou ser atÃxica atà a concentraÃÃo testada. As demais amostras demonstraram toxicidade de acordo com o que à relatado na literatura, em que concentraÃÃes de CL50 abaixo de 1000 à considerado tÃxica. Considerando que, para os experimentos em estudo foi verificado tanto efeito fotoprotetor quanto atividade antioxidante em concentraÃÃes bem abaixo dos valores de CL50, assim podemos considerar o extrato como atÃxico, embora sejam necessÃrios outros testes de toxicidade, in vitro e in vivo buscando descartar o efeito tÃxico que possa vir a ter, viabilizando a utilizaÃÃo de seus princÃpios ativos em fÃrmacos ou produtos cosmÃticos. / Cactaceae is family of plants abundant in semi-arid regions. They present a number of morphological and physiological adaptations that allow their survival in environments with a deficit in nutrients and water, and supports intense solar radiation. The aim of this study was to evaluate the chemical composition (by spectroscopy Fourier transform infrared), toxicity (essays with Artemia salina) and potential photoprotective and antioxidant of ethanol extract (95 and 70%) of Cereus jamacaru stems collected in the periods of day and night. The results of the study of the chemical composition showed variation in the composition according to the sampling period and the process of extracting ethanol (95 or 70%). The 95% ethanol extract of stems collected during the day (ECD 95%) showed no toxicity while others showed toxicity. All the extracts showed photoprotective and antioxidant (as compared to beta carotene) activity. However, the highest activities were observed in the ECD 95%. These results demonstrate the potential photoprotective and antioxidant of ethanol extracts of Cereus jamacaru stems in the production of biotechnological products.

A associação de filtros solares a compostos bioativos tem sido estudada com ênfase na última década. Contudo, a solubilidade limitada dos compostos naturais, tais como a rutina, restringe o desenvolvimento de preparações cosméticas seguras, funcionais e estáveis. A proposta deste estudo envolveu a obtenção de nanoestruturas de gelatina (contendo ou não rutina) para aplicação em protetores solares. Os objetivos específicos foram: (1) preparar partículas de gelatina; (2) realizar a caracterização física, físico-química, morfológica, térmica e funcional (in vitro); (3) avaliar a citotoxicidade e a penetração/permeação curtânea in vitro dos sistemas; (4) desenvolver fotoprotetores bioativos de eficácia estimada in vitro; e (5) determinar a segurança e eficácia clínica fotoprotetora das preparações contendo as estruturas proteicas. As nanopartículas apresentaram-se esféricas e com diâmetro médio e índice de polidispersividade variando entre 318,9 ± 6,9 (B-NC) a 442,8 ± 4,9 nm (R-NC) e 0,06 ± 0,03 (B-NC) a 0,12 ± 0,01 (R-NC), respectivamente. Os valores do potencial zeta apresentaram-se entre -28,5 ± 0,9 mV (B-NC) e -26,6 ± 0,5 mV (R-NC). R-NC apresentou eficiência de associação equivalente a 51,8 ± 1,4%. Os ensaios de segurança das nanopartículas evidenciaram perfil citotóxico adequado para aplicação cosmética, bem como, a ausente tendência de penetração/permeação cutânea. Tendo em vista os resultados obtidos in vitro, as nanopartículas contendo rutina apresentaram capacidade antioxidante 74% superior à rutina em seu estado livre e contribuíram para o aumento de 48% do fator de proteção solar (FPS) quando associada à avobenzona (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), ao p-metoxicinamato de octila (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) e ao octil dimetil PABA (ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA). A avaliação da eficácia clínica das formulações evidenciou a influência da nanopartícula, sem adição do flavonoide, na proteção da pele contra a formação do eritema UV induzido. Por meio da avaliação dos aspectos funcionais, foi possível constatar, in vitro e in vivo, que a adição das nanopartículas em sistemas fotoprotetores influenciou seu perfil de transmitância da radiação UV, bem como, seus efeitos sobre o eritema UV induzido. Os resultados obtidos apresentaram perspectivas de aplicação prática no desenvolvimento de produtos cosméticos fotoprotetores associados a substâncias bioativas, por meio de plataforma nanotecnológica. / Especially, in the last decade, the association of chemical filters and bioactive compounds has been studied by several authors. However, the limited solubility of natural compounds, such as rutin restricts the development of safe and stable cosmetic preparations. The aim of this work was the development of gelatin nanoparticles (with or without rutin) as an ingredient in sunscreens. The specific goals were: (1) the development of rutin-loaded gelatin nanoparticles; (2) to perform the physical, physical-chemical, morphological, thermal and functional (in vitro) analysis; (3) to assess the cytotoxicity and skin penetration / permeation in vitro of the nanoparticles; (4) to develop bioactive sunscreens and to perform the in vitro photoprotection efficacy assay; and (5) to evaluate the in vivo sun protection factor (SPF) of the formulations. The nanoparticles were spherical with an average size and polydispersive index between 318.9 ± 6.9 nm (B-NC) at 442.8 nm ± 4.9 (R-NC), and 0.06 ± 0, 03 (B-NC) to 0.12 ± 0.01 (R-NC). The zeta potential values were high and negative, ranging from - 28.5 ± 0.9 mV (B-NC) and -26.6 ± 0.5 mV (R-NC). R-NC entrapment efficient was 51.8 ± 1.4%. The nanoparticle safety assessment showed a cytotoxic profile suitable for cosmetic application, as well as the absent trend of penetration/ permeation of the skin. The in vitro results indicated that the rutin-loaded gelatin nanoparticles increased 74% the antioxidant profile in comparison with free rutin and also increased 48% the SPF (in vitro) when combined with butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA. The assessment of the clinical efficacy assays showed the influence of blank nanoparticle in the protection of the skin against UV-induced erythema response. It was established in vitro and in vivo that the addition of gelatin nanoparticles in sunscreens influenced its UV transmittance profile, as well as its anti-erythema effects on the skin. The results have practical application in the development of sunscreen with bioactive ingredients and at the design of an innovative ingredient with a chemopreventive profile.