Laboratory experiments were conducted to investigate the effect of low relative depth and high Froude number on the dimensionless critical shear stress (Shields parameter). Spherical particles of four different densities and an 8mm diameter were used as movable test material. The relative depth ranged from 2 to 12 and the Froude number ranged from 0.36 to 1.29. The results show that the traditional Shields diagram cannot be used to predict the incipient motion of coarse sediment particles when the relative depth is below 10 and the Froude number is above 0.5, approximately. Experiments using glass balls, whose density is almost identical to that of natural gravel, show that the Shields parameter can be twice as large in shallow flows than in deep flows. The results also show that the Shields parameter is dependent on the density of the particles. Data obtained from other studies support the findings of the present work. These findings can result in significant cost savings for riprap. Additionally, velocity profiles using a laser-Doppler velocimeter (LDV) were taken for the glass ball incipient motion experiments. The purpose of this was to study possible changes in the velocity distribution with decreasing relative depth and increasing Froude number. The results show that the von Karman and integral constants in the law of the wall do not change in the range of relative depths and Froude numbers tested. / Master of Science

Over a decade ago, it was discovered that the earth’s natural seismic wavefields, propagating as seismic noise, can be processed using correlation methods to produce surface waves, similar to those generated by earthquakes. This discovery represents a paradigm shift in seismology and has led to several tomographic studies of earth structures, at different scales and resolutions, in previously difficult-to-study areas around the world. This PhD dissertation presents research results on multi-scale and multi-purpose applications of ambient seismic noise wavefields under three topics: (1) Imaging of sedimentary basins and sub-basin structures in eastern and western Canada using ambient seismic noise, (2) Combining measurements from ambient seismic noise with earthquake datasets for imaging crustal and mantle structures, and (3) Temporal variation in cultural seismic noise and noise correlation functions (NCFs) during the COVID-19 lockdown in Canada. The first topic involved imaging the sedimentary basins in eastern and western Canada using shear wave velocities derived from ambient noise group velocities. The results show that the basins are characterized by varying depths, with maximums along the studied cross-sections in excess of 10 km, in eastern and western Canada. Characteristics of accreted terranes in eastern and western Canada are also revealed in the results. A seismically distinct basement is imaged in eastern Canada and is interpreted to be a vestige of the western African crust trapped beneath eastern Canada at the opening of the Atlantic Ocean. In western Canada, the 3D variation of the Moho and sedimentary basin depths is imaged. The thickest sediments in eastern Canada are found beneath the Queen Charlotte, Williston and the Alberta Deep basins, while the Moho is the deepest beneath the Williston basin and parts of Alberta basin and northern British Columbia. For the second topic, I worked on improving the seismological methodology to construct broadband (period from 2 to 220 s) dispersion curves by combining the dispersion measurements derived from ambient seismic noise with those from earthquakes. The broadband dispersion curves allow for imaging earth structures spanning the shallow crust to the upper mantle. For the third topic, I used ambient seismic data from the earlier stages of the COVID-19 pandemic to study the temporal variation of seismic power spectra and the potential impacts of COVID-19 lockdown on ambient NCFs in four cities in eastern and western Canada. The results show mean seismic power drops of 24% and 17% during the lockdown in eastern Canada, near Montreal and Ottawa respectively and reductions of 27% and 17% near Victoria and Sidney respectively. NCF signal quality within the secondary microseism band reached maximum before the lockdown, minimum during lockdown and at intermediate levels during the gradual reopening phase for the western Canada station pair. / Graduate

Thesis (Ph. D.)--Joint Program in Applied Ocean Science and Engineering (Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Dept. of Ocean Engineering; and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution), 2000. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves 134-141). / by Nicole Marie Suoja. / Ph.D.

Wave heights and periods of surface waves in the Baltic Sea have been modelled for a two-year period (1999-2000) with the wave model Hypas on an 11x11-km grid scale. There is a clear seasonal variation with higher waves during winter and lower during summer. This is mainly a reflection of the wind climate in the area where the winters are windier than the summers. The largest waves are found in the Skagerrak and over the deeper, eastern areas in the Baltic Proper. In the Baltic Sea, the surface waves influence the bottom sediment by initiating resuspension down to 80 m depths. This process is dependent not only on the waves but also on the varying grain size diameters. Fine and medium sand resuspend more often than other sediment types, and these sediments cover together about 25% of the Baltic Proper area. On average sediment is here resuspended 4-5 times per month with a duration for each event of 22 hours. The highest resuspension frequencies are found on the eastern and southern side of the Baltic Proper. During resuspension sediment grains are lifted up into the water mass and matters earlier bound in the sediment can be released. This may stimulate both production and degradation of organic matter.

Remote sensing is a powerful tool for studying the marine environment; however, many images are contaminated by sun glint, the specular reflection of light from the water surface. Improved radiative transfer modelling could lead to better methods for estimating and correcting sunglint. This thesis explores the effect of using detailed numerical models of the sea surface when investigating the transfer of light through the atmosphere-ocean system. New numerical realisations that model both the shape and slope of the sea surface have been created; these contrast with existing radiative transfer models, where the air-water interface has slope but not elevation. Surface realisations including features on a scale from 3 mm to 200 m were created by a Fourier synthesis method, using up to date spectra of the wind-blown sea surface. The surfaces had mean square slopes and elevation variances in line with those of observed seas, for wind speeds up to 15 m/s. Ray-tracing using the new surfaces gave estimates of reflected radiance that were similar to those made using slope statistics methods, but significantly different in 41% of cases tested. The mean difference in the reflected radiance at these points was 19%, median 7%. Elevation-based surfaces give increased sideways scattering and reduced forward scattering of light incident on the sea surface. The elevation-based models have been applied to estimate pixel-pixel variation in ocean colour imagery and to simulate scenes viewed by three types of sensor. The simulations correctly estimated the size and position of the glint zone. Simulations of two ocean colour images gave a lower peak reflectance than the original values, but higher reflectance at the edge of the glint zone. The use of the simulation to test glint correction methods has been demonstrated, as have global Monte Carlo techniques for investigating sensitivity and uncertainty in sun glint correction. This work has shown that elevation-based sea surface models can be created and tested using readily-available computer hardware. The new model can be used to simulate glint in a variety of situations, giving a tool for testing glint correction methods. It could also be used for glint correction directly, by predicting the level of sun glint in a given set of conditions.

Although the leading-order motion of waves is periodic - in other words backwards and forwards - many types of waves including those driven by gravity induce a mean flow as a higher-order effect. It is the induced mean flow of three types of gravity waves that this thesis examines: surface (part I), internal (part II) and interfacial gravity waves (part III). In particular, this thesis examines wave groups. Because they transport energy, momentum and other tracers, wave-induced mean flows have important consequences for climate, environment, air traffic, fisheries, offshore oil and other industries. In this thesis perturbation methods are used to develop a simplified understanding of the physics of the induced mean flow for each of these three types of gravity wave groups. Leading-order estimates of different transport quantities are developed. For surface gravity wave groups (part I), the induced mean flow consists of two compo- nents: the Stokes drift dominant near the surface and the Eulerian return flow acting in the opposite direction and dominant at depth. By considering subsequent orders in a separation of scales expansion and by comparing to the Fourier-space solutions of Longuet-Higgins and Stewart (1962), this thesis shows that the effects of frequency dis- persion can be ignored for deep-water waves with realistic bandwidths. An approximate depth scale is developed and validated above which the Stokes drift is dominant and below which the return flow wins: the transition depth. Results are extended to include the effects of finite depth and directional spreading. Internal gravity wave groups (part II) do not display Stokes drift, but a quantity analogous to Stokes transport for surface gravity waves can still be developed, termed the “divergent- flux induced flow” herein. The divergent-flux induced flow it itself a divergent flow and induces a response. In a three-dimensional geometry, the divergent-flux induced flow and the return flow form a balanced circulation in the horizontal plane with the former transporting fluid through the centre of the group and the latter acting in the opposite direction around the group. In a two-dimensional geometry, stratification inhibits a balanced circulation and a second type of waves are generated that travel far ahead and in the lee of the wave group. The results in the seminal work of Bretherton (1969b) are thus validated, explicit expressions for the response and return flow are developed and compared to numerical simulations in the two-dimensional case. Finally, for interfacial wave groups (part III) the induced mean flow is shown to behave analogously to the surface wave problem of part I. Exploring both pure interfacial waves in a channel with a closed lid and interacting surface and interfacial waves, expressions for the Stokes drift and return flow are found for different configurations with the mean set-up or set-down of the interface playing an important role.

L’amélioration des images sismiques peut aider à mieux contraindre l’exploration deshydrocarbures. Les ondes élastiques qui se propagent dans la Terre peuvent être classifiéescomme ondes de volume et ondes de surface. Si ces dernières sont les plus énergétiques,seules les ondes de volume sont couramment considérées comme des signaux utiles.Cependant, les ondes de surface sont utiles pour caractériser la proche sub-surface.Classiquement, les ondes de surface sont analysées dans des contextes de propriétésélastiques localement 1D.Nous proposons une modification de l’inversion des formes d’onde classique pourreconstruire des profils de propriétés 2D (la windowed-Amplitude Waveform Inversion, w-AWI). La w-AWI est spécialement robuste en ce qui concerne le choix du modèle initial.Nous appliquons la w-AWI aux données synthétiques ainsi qu’aux données réelles, montrantque cette approche permet de récupérer des propriétés 2D. / High-resolution seismic imaging is essential to improve results of hydrocarbon exploration.Elastic waves propagate in the Earth as body and surface waves, the latter being the mostenergetic ones. Body waves are preferred for exploration seismic imaging while surfacewaves are usually considered to be noise. However, it has been recognised that the nearsurface can be characterised by analysing surface waves and that such result may improvethe outcome of body-wave processing. Currently, surface waves analysis leads to retrievelocal 1D property profiles.We propose a waveform-based inversion procedure to derive 2D velocity models fromsurface waves. This method consists of a misfit functional modification of classical FullWaveform Inversion and we call it windowed-Amplitude Waveform Inversion (w-AWI). Weshow that w-AWI is robust regarding the choice of initial velocity model. We apply w-AWI tosynthetic and real data obtaining encouraging near-surface imaging results

Vertebrates are the most prodigious vocalizing animals in existence, and the most diverse methods of acoustic communication among vertebrates can be found in the ocean. Relatively many teleost fish are gifted with the ability to communicate acoustically, and the family of serranidae often performs this as a function of the swim bladder. Epinephelus Guttatus (E. guttatus), or more commonly the red hind grouper, is equipped with a drum shaped swim bladder acting as a monopole under typical ocean conditions. This configuration allows for what is understood to be omnidirectional projection of tones approximately centered between 40 and 440 Hz and spanning anywhere from 40 to 200 Hz of bandwidth and modulation effects based on observed data provided by researchers. Prior studies on many other fish show correlation in acoustic communication profile with length, size and sexual identity. In the red hind, sexual dimorphism leads to an inherent female identity in all juvenile fish which converts to male according to environmental factors, recommending at least consistent organs across both sexes be assumed even if not in use. Much research has been performed on male fish vocalization in terms of spectral content. Communication in fish is a complex multi-modal process, with acoustic communication being important for many of the species, particularly those in the littoral regions of the worlds’ oceans. If identifying characteristics of the red hind vocalization can be isolated based on detection, classification, tracking and localizing methodologies, then these identifying characteristics may indeed lead to passive feature identification that allows for estimation of individual fish mass. Hypotheses based on vector, cyclostationary and classical tonal mechanics are presented for consideration. A battery of test data collection events, applying pre-recorded fish vocalizations to a geolocated undersea sound source were conducted. The results are supplied with the intent of validating hypothesis in a non-expert system manner that shows how a series of biological metrics may be assessed for detection, classification, localization and mass estimation for an individual vocalizing red hind grouper / Includes bibliography. / Dissertation (Ph.D.)--Florida Atlantic University, 2017. / FAU Electronic Theses and Dissertations Collection

Este trabalho teve como objetivo a realização de um estudo sobre o método MASW (Análise Multicanal de Ondas de Superfície) avaliando-se comparativamente resultados obtidos por diferentes fontes (ativas e passivas), ondas Rayleigh e Love e diferentes modos de propagação das ondas de superfície. Dois ensaios sísmicos foram executados: com geometria de aquisição bidimensional e geofones triaxiais de 10Hz, e com geometria linear e geofones de componente vertical de 4,5Hz. Foram realizados estudos com as fontes marreta, compactador de solo, ruído ambiental e com o tráfego de veículos, a última através da técnica Passive Roadside MASW. Resultados de inversões com dados da componente vertical (ondas Rayleigh) das ondas de superfície foram avaliados com os de inversões conjuntas com a componente radial (ondas Rayleigh) e transversal (ondas Love). Analisou-se também os produtos de inversões da curva de dispersão do modo fundamental com os de inversões conjuntas com o primeiro modo superior. Os estudos foram realizados em frente ao Instituto de Astronomia, Geofísica e Ciência Atmosféricas (IAG) localizado no interior do campus Cidade Universitária Armando de Salles Oliveira (CUASO) da Universidade de São Paulo (USP) no bairro do Butantã, São Paulo. A área de estudo possui informações de sondagem mista com descrição geológica do material e valores SPT (Standard Penetration Test) que foram utilizados para validação dos resultados. O compactador de solo demonstrou ser uma melhor fonte ativa em relação a marreta através de diferentes aspectos: geração de maior energia tanto na componente vertical quanto na transversal; espectros (V,f) de melhor qualidade; os dados apresentam a vantagem de poderem ser processados através da técnica f-k beamforming. A aquisição com o ruído ambiental não possibilitou a interpretação de curvas de dispersão devido ao pouco tempo de aquisição utilizado. Os dados obtidos pela técnica Passive Roadside MASW contribuíram com os dados de ativa através do registro de frequências mais baixas. Além disso, devido a clara identificação do 1° modo superior em seu espectro (V,f) foi possível a identificação do mesmo modo no espectro (V,f) dos dados de ativa, interpretação até então duvidosa. No entanto, a inversão conjunta das curvas de dispersão dos dados Passive Roadside com as dos dados de ativa não resultou em uma melhor inversão comparada com a inversão obtida apenas pelas curvas de ativa. A inversão conjunta de curvas das componentes radial (ondas Rayleigh) e transversal (ondas Love) com as curvas obtidas da componente vertical (ondas Rayleigh) também não trouxe um melhor resultado quando comparada com a inversão alcançada apenas com as curvas da componente vertical. A utilização do primeiro modo superior com o modo fundamental, no entanto, mostrou trazer melhoras significativas nos resultados das inversões em comparação com inversões apenas da curva do modo fundamental. Considerando as incertezas envolvidas os melhores resultados deste trabalho são convergentes com os dados de sondagem da área de estudo. No atual estágio de desenvolvimento do método MASW diversas etapas são bastante dependentes do operador. Neste sentido os estudos realizados neste trabalho contribuem para um melhor entendimento do método nos seus fundamentos, parâmetros de aquisição e processamento. / This work aim to study the MASW (Multichannel Analysis of Surface Waves) method by comparing results obtained with different sources (active and passive), Rayleigh and Love waves and different modes of surface waves propagation. Two seismic tests were performed: one with two-dimensional acquisition geometry and 10Hz triaxial geophones, and the other with linear geometry and 4.5 Hz vertical component geophones. Studies were carried out with the following sources: sledgehammer, rammer compactor, ambient noise and vehicular traffic, the last through the Passive Roadside MASW technique. Inversions results with vertical component data (Rayleigh waves) were evaluated through joint inversions with the radial (Rayleigh waves) and transversal (Love waves) components. It were also analyzed the inversions results of the fundamental mode of the dispersion curve with the results of joint inversions with the first higher mode. The studies were carried out in front of the Instituto de Astronomia, Geofísica e Ciência Atmosféricas (IAG) (Institute of Astronomy, Geophysics and Atmospheric Science) located inside the university campus Cidade Universitária Armando de Salles Oliveira (CUASO) of Universidade de São Paulo (USP) (University of São Paulo) in the neighborhood of Butantã, São Paulo. The study area has information with a geological material description and SPT (Standard Penetration Test) values that were used to validate the results. The rammer compactor showed to be a better active source in relation to sledgehammer through different aspects: generation of greater energy in vertical and transverse components; better quality of (V,f) spectrum; the data have the advantage that they can be processed using the f-k beamforming technique. The acquisition with ambient noise did not allow the dispersion curves interpretation due to the short acquisition time used. Passive Roadside MASW data contributed to the active data through the lower frequency. Besides that, due to the clear identification of the 1st higher mode in its (V,f) spectrum it was possible to identify the same mode in the (V,f) spectrum of the active data, interpretation that was, until then, doubtful. However, the joint inversion of the Passive Roadside dispersion curves with the active curves did not produce better results compared to the inversion obtained only by the active curves. The joint inversion of dispersion curves from radial (Rayleigh) and transversal (Love waves) components with the curves obtained by the vertical component (Rayleigh waves) also did not bring a better result when compared with the inversion achieved only by the vertical component curves. The use of the first higher mode with the fundamental mode, however, showed significant improvements in the joint inversions results compared to inversions only of the fundamental mode curve. Considering the uncertainties involved, the best results of this work converge with the a priori information of the study area. At the current MASW method stage of development, several steps are quite dependent on the operator. Therefore, the studies carried out in this work contribute to a better understanding of the method in its fundamentals, acquisition parameters and processing.

The perfectly matched layer (PML) is a novel technique to simulate the absorption of waves in unbounded domains. The underlying equations are often a system of second order hyperbolic partial differential equations. In the numerical treatment, second order systems are often rewritten and solved as first order systems. There are several benefits with solving the equations in second order formulation, though. However, while the theory and numerical methods for first order hyperbolic systems are well developed, numerical techniques to solve second order hyperbolic systems are less complete. We construct a strongly well-posed PML for second order systems in two space dimensions, focusing on the equations of linear elasto-dynamics. In the continuous setting, the stability of both first order and second order formulations are linearly equivalent. We have found that if the so-called geometric stability condition is violated, approximating the first order PML with standard central differences leads to a high frequency instability at most resolutions. In the second order setting growth occurs only if growing modes are well resolved. We determine the number of grid points that can be used in the PML to ensure a discretely stable PML, for several anisotropic elastic materials. We study the stability of the PML for problems where physical boundaries are important. First, we consider the PML in a waveguide governed by the scalar wave equation. To ensure the accuracy and the stability of the discrete PML, we derived a set of equivalent boundary conditions. Second, we consider the PML for second order symmetric hyperbolic systems on a half-plane. For a class of stable boundary conditions, we derive transformed boundary conditions and prove the stability of the corresponding half-plane problem. Third, we extend the stability analysis to rectangular elastic waveguides, and demonstrate the stability of the discrete PML. Building on high order summation-by-parts operators, we derive high order accurate and strictly stable finite difference approximations for second order time-dependent hyperbolic systems on bounded domains. Natural and mixed boundary conditions are imposed weakly using the simultaneous approximation term method. Dirichlet boundary conditions are imposed strongly by injection. By constructing continuous strict energy estimates and analogous discrete strict energy estimates, we prove strict stability.