In this study the potential use of thermochromic colorants in swimwear garments was investigated and the effectiveness of a colour transition in and out of water as a result of changes in temperature assessed. This project considers the use of thermochromic colorants for end use application in Speedo brand swimsuits for women and the opportunity for producing multiple colour transitions or even changes in design pattern. Prior to the application of thermochromic colorants to swimwear, a number of factors must be considered, most importantly, the colorimetric properties and fastness properties of thermochromic colorants applied to the textiles. Currently there is limited information available relating to the colorimetric and fastness properties of thermochromic colorants, particularly where applied to textile substrates. A novel colour measurement methodology suitable for the dynamic colour measurement of thermochromic colorants applied to textiles was developed. Investigations showed that thermochromic colorants exhibited different rates of decolourisation and re-colourisation as well as varying colorimetric behaviour depending on the maximum exposure temperature. The developed colour measurement methodology was used to investigate the fastness properties of thermochromic colorants applied to a polyamide/elastane swimwear fabric. The test samples were found to have varying wash fastness properties depending on the colour of the thermochromic colorant. Furthermore, samples were found to have unsatisfactory fastness to a simulated sunlight (xenon arc light source). However, it was found that by removing specific wavelengths of visible light, using a filter, the rate of degradation was reduced. Rub fastness properties in the dry state were acceptable, though loss of the thermochromic colorants was observed in the wet state. Exposure to chlorinated water adversely affected the test samples causing yellowing, particularly in the thermochromic decolourised state. Thermography and pressure testing techniques were employed in order to identify the areas of Speedo swimsuits most suitable for the placement of thermochromic print motifs. Garment pressure test results showed that the shape of a swimsuit and the fabric from which it was made was found to impact the fit. Thermography testing identified that the fit of a swimsuit had an effect on the convection of heat from the body to the swimsuit. The test results also showed that temperature distribution varied depending on the distribution of muscle and fat on the body. Thermochromic colorants were screen printed on to digitally printed ground substrates to investigate the colour transition effects achievable. Due to the translucency of thermochromic colorants colour mixing with the colour of the ground substrate occurred in the thermochromic coloured state. Print motifs suitable for use in Speedo swimwear were developed and conceptual diagrams showing dynamic thermochromic placement prints for swimwear were created.

Diversas vezes, como artifício de cura de algumas doenças do aparelho intestinal ou do trato urinário, um procedimento cirúrgico nomeado por estomia é uma técnica médica utilizada para manter o paciente em vida. Este procedimento acarreta em uma série de questões físicas e psicológicas para o estomizado, cuja falta de informação e de produtos modernos disponíveis no mercado podem agravar a situação. Através destas constatações, surgiu a intenção de criar produtos de moda, no segmento moda praia, para mulheres que passaram pela cirurgia em questão. Mas o intuito de desenvolvimento de tais produtos fez surgir, ainda, a constatação de outro problema: a carência de um método específico da moda que levasse em consideração as necessidades reais do usuário em questão. Enquanto as metodologias de design de produto têm focado no usuário, os métodos de projeto de moda costumam ignorar a pesquisa e as necessidades humanas, identificando o desenvolvimento com o estilo de quem o projeta. A possibilidade da constatação de necessidades reais do usuário, em projetos de moda, pode ser um caminho promissor se forem considerados os princípios do design. Sendo assim, o presente estudo teve como objetivo geral: desenvolver um método adaptado, embasado em métodos já consagrados do design e da moda, destinado para a criação de produtos de moda que possam atender às necessidades reais do usuário. Neste caso, para a criação de produtos no segmento moda praia que contemplem os anseios de mulheres com estoma. A criação e a aplicação da referida adaptação propiciou o desenvolvimento facilitado dos produtos pretendidos. Pretende-se que o método gerado seja válido para projetos de moda que, assim como este, possuam uma problemática bem definida e uma verificação de necessidade do usuário, assim como acontece nos projetos de design. / In the curing process of many diseases of the intestinal or urinary system, several times a surgical procedure known as ostomy is the only way to keep the patient alive. This procedure includes a series of physical and psychological issues, whose the lack of information and modern products available on the market can aggravate the situation. Through these findings, the intention was to create fashion products, in the beachwear segment, for women with stoma. But the development of these products led to the discovery of another problem: the lack of a specific fashion method that takes into account the real needs of the user. While product design methodologies have focused on the user, fashion design methods have ignored research and human needs. So, the development is identified in the style of the designer. The possibility of verifying the user's real needs in fashion projects can be a promising way if the designer considers the principles of design. Therefore, the present study aimed to develop an adapted method, based on methods of design and fashion, aimed at the creation of fashion products that can meet the real needs of the user - in this case, for the creation of products in the beachwear segment that contemplate the desires of women with stoma. The creation and implementation of this adaptation has facilitated the further development of products. It was intended that the method created be valid for fashion projects that, like this one, have a well-defined problem and a user need, as well as in the design projects.

Diversas vezes, como artifício de cura de algumas doenças do aparelho intestinal ou do trato urinário, um procedimento cirúrgico nomeado por estomia é uma técnica médica utilizada para manter o paciente em vida. Este procedimento acarreta em uma série de questões físicas e psicológicas para o estomizado, cuja falta de informação e de produtos modernos disponíveis no mercado podem agravar a situação. Através destas constatações, surgiu a intenção de criar produtos de moda, no segmento moda praia, para mulheres que passaram pela cirurgia em questão. Mas o intuito de desenvolvimento de tais produtos fez surgir, ainda, a constatação de outro problema: a carência de um método específico da moda que levasse em consideração as necessidades reais do usuário em questão. Enquanto as metodologias de design de produto têm focado no usuário, os métodos de projeto de moda costumam ignorar a pesquisa e as necessidades humanas, identificando o desenvolvimento com o estilo de quem o projeta. A possibilidade da constatação de necessidades reais do usuário, em projetos de moda, pode ser um caminho promissor se forem considerados os princípios do design. Sendo assim, o presente estudo teve como objetivo geral: desenvolver um método adaptado, embasado em métodos já consagrados do design e da moda, destinado para a criação de produtos de moda que possam atender às necessidades reais do usuário. Neste caso, para a criação de produtos no segmento moda praia que contemplem os anseios de mulheres com estoma. A criação e a aplicação da referida adaptação propiciou o desenvolvimento facilitado dos produtos pretendidos. Pretende-se que o método gerado seja válido para projetos de moda que, assim como este, possuam uma problemática bem definida e uma verificação de necessidade do usuário, assim como acontece nos projetos de design. / In the curing process of many diseases of the intestinal or urinary system, several times a surgical procedure known as ostomy is the only way to keep the patient alive. This procedure includes a series of physical and psychological issues, whose the lack of information and modern products available on the market can aggravate the situation. Through these findings, the intention was to create fashion products, in the beachwear segment, for women with stoma. But the development of these products led to the discovery of another problem: the lack of a specific fashion method that takes into account the real needs of the user. While product design methodologies have focused on the user, fashion design methods have ignored research and human needs. So, the development is identified in the style of the designer. The possibility of verifying the user's real needs in fashion projects can be a promising way if the designer considers the principles of design. Therefore, the present study aimed to develop an adapted method, based on methods of design and fashion, aimed at the creation of fashion products that can meet the real needs of the user - in this case, for the creation of products in the beachwear segment that contemplate the desires of women with stoma. The creation and implementation of this adaptation has facilitated the further development of products. It was intended that the method created be valid for fashion projects that, like this one, have a well-defined problem and a user need, as well as in the design projects.

Diversas vezes, como artifício de cura de algumas doenças do aparelho intestinal ou do trato urinário, um procedimento cirúrgico nomeado por estomia é uma técnica médica utilizada para manter o paciente em vida. Este procedimento acarreta em uma série de questões físicas e psicológicas para o estomizado, cuja falta de informação e de produtos modernos disponíveis no mercado podem agravar a situação. Através destas constatações, surgiu a intenção de criar produtos de moda, no segmento moda praia, para mulheres que passaram pela cirurgia em questão. Mas o intuito de desenvolvimento de tais produtos fez surgir, ainda, a constatação de outro problema: a carência de um método específico da moda que levasse em consideração as necessidades reais do usuário em questão. Enquanto as metodologias de design de produto têm focado no usuário, os métodos de projeto de moda costumam ignorar a pesquisa e as necessidades humanas, identificando o desenvolvimento com o estilo de quem o projeta. A possibilidade da constatação de necessidades reais do usuário, em projetos de moda, pode ser um caminho promissor se forem considerados os princípios do design. Sendo assim, o presente estudo teve como objetivo geral: desenvolver um método adaptado, embasado em métodos já consagrados do design e da moda, destinado para a criação de produtos de moda que possam atender às necessidades reais do usuário. Neste caso, para a criação de produtos no segmento moda praia que contemplem os anseios de mulheres com estoma. A criação e a aplicação da referida adaptação propiciou o desenvolvimento facilitado dos produtos pretendidos. Pretende-se que o método gerado seja válido para projetos de moda que, assim como este, possuam uma problemática bem definida e uma verificação de necessidade do usuário, assim como acontece nos projetos de design. / In the curing process of many diseases of the intestinal or urinary system, several times a surgical procedure known as ostomy is the only way to keep the patient alive. This procedure includes a series of physical and psychological issues, whose the lack of information and modern products available on the market can aggravate the situation. Through these findings, the intention was to create fashion products, in the beachwear segment, for women with stoma. But the development of these products led to the discovery of another problem: the lack of a specific fashion method that takes into account the real needs of the user. While product design methodologies have focused on the user, fashion design methods have ignored research and human needs. So, the development is identified in the style of the designer. The possibility of verifying the user's real needs in fashion projects can be a promising way if the designer considers the principles of design. Therefore, the present study aimed to develop an adapted method, based on methods of design and fashion, aimed at the creation of fashion products that can meet the real needs of the user - in this case, for the creation of products in the beachwear segment that contemplate the desires of women with stoma. The creation and implementation of this adaptation has facilitated the further development of products. It was intended that the method created be valid for fashion projects that, like this one, have a well-defined problem and a user need, as well as in the design projects.

Syftet med studien är att genom en semiotiskt bildanalys och genusvetenskaplig ansats undersöka hur det kroppspositivistiska bikiniföretaget Elsa and Rose Swimwear framställer kvinnan i sin marknadsföring på Instagram. Då tidigare forskning kring kvinnlig framställning i reklam till stor del fokuserat på endast kroppsstorlek och attraktivitet har vi valt att inkludera analysverktyg som pose, gaze, samt etnicitet och hud. Detta för att bidra med ny kunskap om kvinnlig framställning inom reklam och sociala medier. Genom att studera sju bilder, som alla publicerades under 2018, på Elsa and Rose Swimwears Instagram-konto har vi undersökt hur kvinnan framställs, samt om och hur denna framställning av kvinnan skiljer sig från den normativa kvinnan som vanligtvis syns i media. Studiens resultat visar att ingen av de sju bilder som ingick i analysen demonstrerar “den perfekta kvinnan”, som vanligtvis syns i medier och reklamsammanhang. Ingen av kvinnorna i bilderna innehar alltså alla normativa attribut, som till exempel både en extremt smal kropp och perfekt hud. Bildernas huvudsakliga syfte är således inte att marknadsföra sina produkter med hjälp av normativa kvinnokroppar, utan att genom sin marknadsföring även sprida budskap om att alla kroppar är värda att synas i media, oavsett storlek, hudton och utseendemässiga attribut. Slutligen sänder kvinnorna huvudsakligen signaler av självsäkerhet och kontroll genom sina blickar och poseringar, vilket demonstrerar deras medvetenhet om åskådaren. Resultatet i den här studien visar således att det kroppspositivistiska bikiniföretaget Elsa and Rose Swimwears huvudsakliga framställning av kvinnan skiljer sig från den traditionella och normativa kvinnan som vanligtvis syns i media. / The purpose of the study is to, through semiotic analysis and gender theory, investigate in which way the body-positive bikini company Elsa and Rose Swimwear is representing women in their Instagram marketing. Since earlier research on female representation in advertising is largely focused on body size and attractiveness, we have in this study chosen to include analysis tools such as pose, gaze, as well as ethnicity and skin. This will contribute to new knowledge on female representation in commercials and on social media. By studying seven images, all posted in 2018, on Elsa and Rose Swimwear's Instagram account, we have investigated how women are represented as well as whether and how this representation differs from the normative female image usually seen in media. The result of the study shows that none of the seven images included in the analysis display "the perfect woman" that is usually seen in media and advertising. None of the women in the pictures possess all the normative attributes, such as both an extremely thin body and perfect skin. We find that the main purpose of the images is not to for the company to market their products with normative women's bodies, but rather market their products while spreading a message saying that all bodies are worth being seen in media, regardless of size, skin tone and appearance. Finally, the women in the pictures communicate self-confidence and control through their gazes and poses, and therefore demonstrating their consciousness of the observer. The result of the study shows that the body-positive bikini company Elsa and Rose Swimwear's main representation of women differs from the traditional and normative female image.