Em 2014, foi criado pela ABNT (Associação Brasileira de Normas Técnicas), um grupo de trabalho, autointitulado GT- Segurança Química em Têxteis, vinculado ao CB-17 ABNT Comitê Brasileiro de Têxteis ao qual,sua premissa, é criar normalizações nacionais por meio do estudo das legislações e normas internacionais vigentes que versam sobre as questões de toxicidade de produtos têxteis e confeccionados. Onde, sua adaptação, atua diretamente às condições tecnológicas das indústrias nacionais e das necessidades de proteção da saúde dos consumidores. Onze grupos de substâncias, consideradas perigosas, foram inicialmente foco das discussões, que deram origem às sistemáticas de definição qualitativa e quantitativa da presença de classes de produtos químicos em produtos têxteis e confeccionados. No entanto, em razão do volume e da complexidade total do estudo, o objetivo deste projeto foi identificar e quantificar a presença de formaldeído utilizada nos processos de obtenção de fibras, fios, ou tecido, bem como nos processos de beneficiamentos têxteis, com ênfase no residual presente em artigos têxteis e confeccionados, produto este que pode ser encontrado em muitos artigos têxteis e couros, devido a sua presença na composição de uma variedade de auxiliares químicos utilizados no beneficiamento. A Metodologia utilizada foi a pesquisa bibliográfica constituída em procedimento básico para os estudos monográficos, a pesquisa tecnológica que visa à materialização de um produto, protótipo, processo, instalação piloto ou um estudo de viabilização desses e, para análise de dados, utilizou-se a pesquisa quantitativa e os resultados experimentais mostraram que o método adotado foi adequado para a proposta do estudo / In 2014, was established by ABNT (Associação Brasileira de Normas Técnicas), a working group, self-titled GT-chemical safety in textile, linked to the CB-17-ABNT-Brazilian Committee of textiles which, your premise is to create national normalizations through the study of existing laws and international standards relating to the issues of toxicity of textile and made-up. Where your adaptation, acts directly to the technological conditions of national industries and the needs of protection of consumer health. Eleven groups of substances considered dangerous, were initially focus the discussions, giving rise to systematic qualitative and quantitative definition of classes of chemicals in textiles and made-up. However, due to the volume and the total complexity of the study, the objective of this project was to identify and quantify the presence of formaldehyde used in the process of getting fiber, yarn, or fabric, as well as in cases of processed textiles, with emphasis on the present in residual textile and made-up, this product can be found in many textile and leather due to your presence in a variety of auxiliary chemicals used in processing. The methodology used was bibliographical research consists in basic procedure for the monographic studies, technological research aimed at the materialization of a product prototype, pilot installation process or a feasibility study of these and, for data analysis, quantitative research and experimental results showed that the method adopted was suited to the proposal of the study

[pt] Esta tese discorre sobre a relação entre design e indústrias maduras com ênfase em um agir projetual estratégico e orientado para contextos de mudança que incorporam obsolescência e inovação. A abordagem teórica está alinhada com as noções de acumulação criativa do conhecimento, rejuvenescimento e inovação endógena de indústrias no estágio de maturidade do ciclo de vida. Nesse sentido, defende-se que o design é capaz de gerar conhecimento novo para que essas indústrias possam se preparar para inovar sem desprezar o conhecimento existente endogenamente e questiona-se como isso é possível. Foi realizado levantamento bibliográfico sobre Design e Gestão, conciliando três matrizes de pensamento e cultura: de projeto, da gestão do processo de design e da gestão de empresa. Para a condução da pesquisa, também foram adotados os métodos Design Science Research, Material Driven Design e estudo de caso. No âmbito das indústrias maduras, a tese contribui ao caracterizar as atividades projetuais como design pendular; apontar desafios da Gestão do Design; consolidar e propor Capacidades Dinâmicas baseadas no conhecimento do Design, incluindo o transver como síntese; sugerir perspectivas para a relação entre design e a indústria-caso, especializada em materiais têxteis para piso residencial e, principalmente, propor uma abordagem de Design Estratégico com estrutura matricial que abrange bens de consumo, tecnologias e princípios culturais. Por fim, aborda-se neste texto o fato de reflexões sobre um design que enfatiza a sua intenção estratégica ao construir espaços de pesquisa, criação e crítica serem consideradas fundamentais para a transformação de ambientes industriais caracterizados por práticas consolidadas, possivelmente obsoletas. / [en] This study aims to analyze the relationship between design and Mature Industries, focusing on Strategic Design, oriented to changing contexts that incorporated obsolescence and innovation. The theoretical approach is aligned with the notions of creative accumulation of knowledge, dematurity and endogenous innovation for industries in the maturity stage of the Life Cycle. Considering these circumstances, the study discusses and questions how design is capable of generating novelties to prepare these industries for innovation without disregarding the existing endogenous knowledge. For such, bibliographic references in the areas of Design and Management, combining 3 lines of thinking and culture matrices were consulted, including design, design process management, and business management. Moreover, the Design Science Research and Material Driven Design methods, and a case study were also used during the research. Within the scope of Mature Industries, the thesis contributes by distinguishing design activities as pendulum design; by highlighting Design Management challenges; by strengthening and proposing Dynamic Capabilities based on design knowledge, which includes to see beyond as a synthesis; and, finally, by suggesting perspectives for the relationship between design and the industry case specialized in textiles for residential flooring and, mainly, by proposing a Strategic Design approach with a matrix structure that encompasses consumer goods, technologies and cultural principles. Reflections about Design that features its strategic intent in the development of spaces for research, creativity and criticism are considered essential to change industrial environments characterized by conventional practices, possibly obsolete.

Aspectos relacionados à percepção cognitiva do homem têm sido cada vez mais considerados em projetos de produtos e nos processos de seleção de materiais. Em especial, a seleção de materiais têxteis configura uma tarefa de alta complexidade tanto devido a aspectos técnicos, quanto a aspectos percebidos através dos sentidos. Por isso, esta pesquisa objetiva contribuir com a seleção de materiais têxteis para uso em calçados, através da proposição de um processo sistematizado. O presente estudo integra atributos percebidos de maneira visual e tátil a partir de superfícies de materiais e qualidades percebidas de produtos, encontrados em bibliografia especializada, a uma escala de diferencial semântico. Em etapa posterior, através de teste piloto com designers e especialistas e utilizando os dados coletados por meio de observação direta e questionários, este conteúdo foi avaliado de maneira qualitativa, gerando o referido processo, que utiliza a lista de atributos para a classificação de materiais têxteis para uso no PDP. Como resultado, é proposto um processo industrial patenteado, amparado por uma ferramenta que viabiliza a classificação de materiais têxteis, para uso específico no projeto de calçados. / Aspects related to the cognitive perception of man have been increasingly considered in product designs and materials selection processes. The selection of textile materials constitutes a task of high complexity both due to technical aspects and to aspects perceived through the senses. From this, this research aims to contribute with the selection of textile materials for use in footwear, through the proposition of a systematized process. For this, the present study integrates visually and tactile perceived attributes from material surfaces and perceived qualities of products, found in specialized bibliography, on a semantic differential scale. In a later stage, through a pilot test with designers and specialists and using data collected through direct observation and questionnaires, this content was evaluated in a qualitative way, generating the said process, which uses the list of attributes for the classification of textile materials for use in the PDP. As a result, a patented industrial process is proposed, supported by a tool that enables the classification of textile materials for specific use in shoe design.

L'objectif de cette thèse est de développer de nouveaux textiles biomimétiques pour réaliser des prothèses vasculaires au comportement mécanique proche de celui de l'aorte native, afin de limiter les problèmes post-opératoires observés actuellement. Afin d'établir le cahier des charges, un modèle de comportement de l'AA inspiré d'un modèle multicouches a été ajusté sur des essais biaxiaux de la littérature réalisés sur des échantillons d'AA excisés, pour trois groupes d'âge distincts. Ce modèle a ensuite été implémenté dans un code de calculs par éléments finis afin de simuler le comportement mécanique de l'aorte saine soumise à un ensemble de sollicitations mécaniques, tant à l'échelle du matériau (traction uni et biaxiale, flexion) qu'à celle de la structure (gonflement avec pré-élongation, flexion, compression diamétrale). Dans un second temps, des essais de caractérisation couplés à des mesures par imagerie ont été mis en œuvre sur des prothèses du commerce, avec les mêmes conditions limites et de chargement que les simulations numériques. Ces essais ont permis d'identifier les écarts de comportement mécanique entre les prothèses actuelles et l'aorte native. Afin de pallier à cela, la dernière partie de ce travail a été consacrée au développement de nouveaux textiles biomimétiques, i.e mimant le comportement mécanique de l'aorte native ainsi que ses principales caractéristiques histologiques (« ondulation » et « orientations de fibres privilégiées»), réalisables à l'échelle industrielle par technologie « tricot maille jetée ». Dans un premier temps, le comportement mécanique de plusieurs multifilaments en PET avec différents titres, nombres de filaments et différentes textures, a été étudié après plusieurs traitements (thermique…). Ceci a permis de sélectionner un fil en particulier pour la réalisation des textiles. Par la suite, une première optimisation des paramètres de fabrication (armure, densité de mailles, jauge) a été réalisée pas-à-pas à travers plusieurs campagnes de réalisations et de caractérisations de tricots plans en sollicitation uniaxiale et biaxiale. Enfin, des premiers essais de mise en forme tubulaire ont été réalisés à partir des textiles optimisés. Deux procédés de mise en forme ont été développés : tubes cousus / tubes tramés. La production de « tubes tramés » continus est une technologie innovante à notre connaissance, et prometteuse. Le comportement mécanique des tubes réalisés a été caractérisé en gonflement pour une première évaluation. Plus spécifiquement, l'effet des procédés appliqués sur les textiles médicaux (lavage, traitement thermique, enduction) a été testé sur des échantillons de tube tramé et de textiles plans. Ces premiers essais ont montré qu'en pilotant les paramètres de ces différents traitements et plus particulièrement ceux du traitement thermique, il est possible de moduler le comportement mécanique des tricots afin qu'il s'approche au mieux de celui de l'AA. / This thesis aims at developing new biomimetic textiles to design vascular prostheses with a mechanical behavior close to the one of the host aorta, in order to reduce current post-operative problems. To define the ideal target properties, a AA mechanical model was chosen, based on a multi-layered model from the literature. The model parameters were adjusted on biaxial tensile data reported in the literature, performed on excised AA samples for three different age groups. Then, this model was implemented in a finite element code in order to simulate the mechanical behavior of the healthy aorta submitted to various mechanical loadings, both at the material's scale (uni- and biaxial tensile tests, bending) and at the structure's scale (inflation with prestretch, bending, diametric compression). Secondly, several commercial prostheses were characterized using dedicated experimental devices combined with image recordings. The prostheses were tested under the same boundary and loading conditions as the ones used in the numerical simulations. These tests showed that the actual prostheses are not fully mechanically compatible with the host aorta. In order to solve this problem, the last part of this work was dedicated to the design of new biomimetic textiles, i.e. mimicking the healthy aorta's mechanical behavior and main histologic properties (“wavy fibres” and “preferred fiber orientations”), which can be produced industrially using “warp knitting” technology. Firstly, the mechanical behavior of several PET yarns made of different titers, filament numbers and textures were characterized after several treatments (thermal, etc.). This step enabled to identify one specific yarn to produce the biomimetic textiles. Then, a first optimization of the manufacturing parameters (weave, gauge, density, etc.) was made step by step by means of several textile production and planar tests (uni- and biaxial tensile tests). Finally, several trials were conducted to design tubular structures from the optimized textiles. Two shaping methods were developed: sewed tubes / weaved tubes. The continuously “weaved tubes” production is an innovative and promising technology as far as we know. The mechanical behavior of the new tubes was characterized using inflation tests for a first assessment. More specifically, the effect of the treatments usually applied on medical textiles (cleaning, thermal treatment, coating) was tested on weaved tubes and planar textiles samples. By adjusting the parameters of the several processes - and mostly those of thermal treatments – it was possible to adjust the textiles' mechanical behavior in order to make it the closest to the AA's one.

Submitted by Lara Oliveira (lara@ufersa.edu.br) on 2017-05-24T20:47:48Z No. of bitstreams: 1 JuanRFG_DISSERT.pdf: 3346003 bytes, checksum: 0b61d81493463a07bc096fa6a4a756d6 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Vanessa Christiane (referencia@ufersa.edu.br) on 2017-05-26T11:52:59Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 JuanRFG_DISSERT.pdf: 3346003 bytes, checksum: 0b61d81493463a07bc096fa6a4a756d6 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Vanessa Christiane (referencia@ufersa.edu.br) on 2017-05-26T11:53:54Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 JuanRFG_DISSERT.pdf: 3346003 bytes, checksum: 0b61d81493463a07bc096fa6a4a756d6 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2017-05-26T11:54:25Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 JuanRFG_DISSERT.pdf: 3346003 bytes, checksum: 0b61d81493463a07bc096fa6a4a756d6 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2016-05-20 / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / The flexible microstrip antennas are devices that guarantee the development of communications systems with greater adaptability to the different types of microwaves applications .The possibility of an antenna be designed using textile materials facilitates their conditioning on systems that need is in contact or very close to the human body. The mesh fabric offers greater adaptability to the application due its flexibility. To build the antenna, is necessary check the compatibility between the knitted fabrics available and project needs. Therefore, is essential study the behavior of the electrical and physical features of each structure, analyzing also the influence of synthetic and organic fibers in performance. The characterization allows choice which fabrics is better to manufacture the antenna, is designed and built one microstrip antenna with classic rectangular geometry using the knitted fabric with better performance. The synthetic fibers have better physical characteristics that improve the adaptability of the tissue as a substrate. The electrical characteristics of the mesh fabrics they presented similar behavior as the frequency variation. In the frequency 2.45 GHz knitted fabric composed of polyester and spandex has the best actual values of relative permittivity and loss tangent thus constructed is used in the antenna design. The results show that the resonance frequency is approximately 2.68 GHz, a variation near 230 MHz, this is due to aspects of the test antenna construction / As antenas de microfitas flexíveis são dispositivos que garantem o desenvolvimento de sistemas de comunicações com maior adaptabilidade aos diversos tipos de aplicações em microondas. A possibilidade de uma antena ser projetada utilizando materiais têxteis facilita seu condicionamento em sistemas que necessitem estar em contato ou muito próximo ao corpo humano. O tecido de malha oferece maior adaptabilidade à aplicação devido a sua flexibilidade. Com o objetivo de construir a antena, é necessário verificar a compatibilidade entre os tecidos de malha disponíveis e as necessidades do projeto. Assim, é indispensável estudar o comportamento das características elétricas e físicas de cada estrutura. Analisando também, a influência das fibras sintéticas e orgânicas no desempenho. A partir da caracterização e escolha dos tecidos que comporão a antena, é projetada e construída uma antena de microfita com geometria retangular clássica utilizando o tecido com melhor desempenho. Os tecidos que contém fibras sintéticas apresentam características físicas que aumentam a adaptabilidade do tecido como substrato. As características elétricas dos tecidos apresentam comportamento semelhante quanto à variação da frequência. Na frequência de 2,45 GHz o tecido de malha composto por Poliéster e Elastano apresenta os melhores valores de permissividade relativa real e tangente de perdas, assim, é utilizado no projeto da antena construída. Os resultados demonstram que a frequência de ressonância é aproximadamente 2,68 GHz, representando uma variação aproxima de 230 MHz, isso ocorre devido a aspectos ligados a fase de construção da antena teste / 2017-05-24

Aspectos relacionados à percepção cognitiva do homem têm sido cada vez mais considerados em projetos de produtos e nos processos de seleção de materiais. Em especial, a seleção de materiais têxteis configura uma tarefa de alta complexidade tanto devido a aspectos técnicos, quanto a aspectos percebidos através dos sentidos. Por isso, esta pesquisa objetiva contribuir com a seleção de materiais têxteis para uso em calçados, através da proposição de um processo sistematizado. O presente estudo integra atributos percebidos de maneira visual e tátil a partir de superfícies de materiais e qualidades percebidas de produtos, encontrados em bibliografia especializada, a uma escala de diferencial semântico. Em etapa posterior, através de teste piloto com designers e especialistas e utilizando os dados coletados por meio de observação direta e questionários, este conteúdo foi avaliado de maneira qualitativa, gerando o referido processo, que utiliza a lista de atributos para a classificação de materiais têxteis para uso no PDP. Como resultado, é proposto um processo industrial patenteado, amparado por uma ferramenta que viabiliza a classificação de materiais têxteis, para uso específico no projeto de calçados. / Aspects related to the cognitive perception of man have been increasingly considered in product designs and materials selection processes. The selection of textile materials constitutes a task of high complexity both due to technical aspects and to aspects perceived through the senses. From this, this research aims to contribute with the selection of textile materials for use in footwear, through the proposition of a systematized process. For this, the present study integrates visually and tactile perceived attributes from material surfaces and perceived qualities of products, found in specialized bibliography, on a semantic differential scale. In a later stage, through a pilot test with designers and specialists and using data collected through direct observation and questionnaires, this content was evaluated in a qualitative way, generating the said process, which uses the list of attributes for the classification of textile materials for use in the PDP. As a result, a patented industrial process is proposed, supported by a tool that enables the classification of textile materials for specific use in shoe design.

Aspectos relacionados à percepção cognitiva do homem têm sido cada vez mais considerados em projetos de produtos e nos processos de seleção de materiais. Em especial, a seleção de materiais têxteis configura uma tarefa de alta complexidade tanto devido a aspectos técnicos, quanto a aspectos percebidos através dos sentidos. Por isso, esta pesquisa objetiva contribuir com a seleção de materiais têxteis para uso em calçados, através da proposição de um processo sistematizado. O presente estudo integra atributos percebidos de maneira visual e tátil a partir de superfícies de materiais e qualidades percebidas de produtos, encontrados em bibliografia especializada, a uma escala de diferencial semântico. Em etapa posterior, através de teste piloto com designers e especialistas e utilizando os dados coletados por meio de observação direta e questionários, este conteúdo foi avaliado de maneira qualitativa, gerando o referido processo, que utiliza a lista de atributos para a classificação de materiais têxteis para uso no PDP. Como resultado, é proposto um processo industrial patenteado, amparado por uma ferramenta que viabiliza a classificação de materiais têxteis, para uso específico no projeto de calçados. / Aspects related to the cognitive perception of man have been increasingly considered in product designs and materials selection processes. The selection of textile materials constitutes a task of high complexity both due to technical aspects and to aspects perceived through the senses. From this, this research aims to contribute with the selection of textile materials for use in footwear, through the proposition of a systematized process. For this, the present study integrates visually and tactile perceived attributes from material surfaces and perceived qualities of products, found in specialized bibliography, on a semantic differential scale. In a later stage, through a pilot test with designers and specialists and using data collected through direct observation and questionnaires, this content was evaluated in a qualitative way, generating the said process, which uses the list of attributes for the classification of textile materials for use in the PDP. As a result, a patented industrial process is proposed, supported by a tool that enables the classification of textile materials for specific use in shoe design.

Depuis des millénaires, le chanvre est cultivé pour ses fibres. Longues et résistantes, elles peuvent notamment entrer dans la composition de matériaux textiles et composites, secteurs industriels en plein essor. Cependant, leur manque d’homogénéité et la complexité de leur affinage ne leur permettent pas encore d’être compétitives face aux fibres synthétiques ou de coton. Mais des fibres de chanvre fines pourraient être produites à partir de fibres brutes en utilisant un traitement par explosion à la vapeur à bas coût, faible consommation d’énergie et avec un faible impact environnemental. Une caractérisation morphologique, chimique et mécanique des fibres a été réalisée avant et après traitement dans le but d’optimiser les paramètres de ce procédé, selon une méthodologie de plan d’expériences. Ces essais ont montré que l’explosion à la vapeur pouvait être utilisée pour produire des fibres correspondant aux critères imposés par l’industrie textile et des matériaux composites. Des éléments ont aussi été apportés sur une éventuelle industrialisation de l’explosion à la vapeur. Là encore, les résultats montrent que ce procédé pourrait être industriellement compétitif en termes de coûts, de consommation en eau et en énergie, et de rendements. Enfin, des fibres ont été produites à partir de sols pollués contenant des métaux lourds. Les teneurs en métaux dans les différentes parties de la plante et dans les fibres ont été mesurées avant et après explosion à la vapeur. Les résultats obtenus ouvrent de nouvelles perspectives quant à un usage durable de Technosols (notamment des friches industrielles) pour la production de fibres de chanvre à usage industriel / Hemp plants have been cultivated for their usable fibers for thousands of years. The fibers are long and resistant and can be utilized for creation of textile and composite materials, relevant to burgeoning industrial sectors. However, due to their lack of homogeneity and the complexity of their refining, hemp fibers are unable to compete with synthetic and cotton fibers. But fine hemp fibers could be successfully produced from technical fibers using a steam explosion treatment at a low cost, a low energy consumption and with a low environmental impact. To optimize the parameters of this process, a morphological, chemical, and mechanical characterization was performed before and after steam explosion using a design of experiments methodology. These experiments showed that this process can be used to produce hemp fibers with the standards defined by the textile and composite materials industries. Some features have also suggested some prospects in the industrialization of steam explosion for fibers production. These results showed that this process could be industrially competitive in terms of costs, water and energy consumption and yield. Finally, phytoremediation-borne hemp fibers were produced from soils contaminated with trace elements. The metals concentrations in plant components and in the fibers were measured before and after steam explosion treatment. The results offer new insights and prospects for a sustainable use of Technosols (in particular brownfield sites) by the production of hemp fibers

The thesis topic is "Possibilities of Textile Materials in Practical Activities Subject in Primary School". The theoretical part is focused on the historical origin and evolution of textiles, summary of textile techniques, sorting and its use mainly with pupils in the primary school. It also deals with project based learning and conceptions, objects and competences of a pupil in the primary school in technical education in czech system of Framework Educational Programme for Elementary Education. In the practical part there are designed textile techniques that are processed into the original teaching projects. The functionality of the project was detected by using questionnaires for teachers of primary school. Some of the projects were realized in teaching in the 2nd, 3rd and 4th year of the primary school.