The use of knitting technology with advanced fibres such as glass, carbon and aramid, to produce near-net-shape fabrics has in recent years received increasing interest from the composite materials community. Knitted fabrics have the potential of being used in engineering structures with complex shapes in conjunction with a suitable liquid moulding technique, such as Resin Transfer Moulding (RTM), due to their excellent drapeability and manufacturability. During previous studies in textile reinforced composites, an intimate relationship between the fabric architecture and the damage development has been demonstrated. In this work, the quasi-static tensile loading deformation behaviour and the relation between the fabric architecture and damage development have been studied for a weft knitted glass fabric. Tensile properties have been examined and the failure mechanisms have been identified experimentally by analysing the damage process in-situ with a camera and by studying fracture surfaces using scanning electron microscopy (SEM). The acoustic emission technique was used to support the microscopic analysis. The work has investigated the tensile properties and failure mechanisms of three knitted fabric reinforced composite laminates reinforced with a Milano weft knitted glass fabric. The three composites were (i) a single layer of fabric reinforcing epoxy resin, (ii) a single knitted fabric layer sandwiched between 0° glass fibre unidirectional plies (again with the glass reinforcing epoxy resin), and (iii) the same knitted glass fabric but this time used as the reinforcement in commercially produced high fibre volume fraction composites (using the RTM technique). The variation of mechanical properties with angle (from wale to course) has been measured for the single layer of the fabric reinforcing epoxy resin by orientating the wale direction of the fabric at different angles. Mechanical properties have been measured for each angular orientation and comparisons were made between them, especially with regard to the planes of final failure. The single layer composites failed as soon as the first damage was initiated. Hence, to investigate damage accumulation, a novel technique was employed to manufacture a sandwich laminate, which consisted in placing a single knitted fabric layer between 0° glass fibre unidirectional plies. The success of this method is that the accumulation of damage in the knitted architecture was allowed to be studied and some characteristics of crack initiation and crack propagation could be related to the fabric geometry and structure. Experiments on these model transparent materials have been complemented by tests on two types of commercial knitted fabric composite manufactured by the RTM process. Characterization of these materials under tensile loading has been carried out for monotonic and cyclic loading and the results have been compared with those found for the single layer and the sandwich model material. Various failure mechanisms such as cracking at loop cross-over points, resin matrix cracking, fibre bundle debonding and tensile fracture of fibre bundles in failed specimens were observed. The behaviour of the commercial RTM specimens has been discussed in the light of the results obtained from the model single layer and sandwich specimens.

Made available in DSpace on 2016-12-08T16:19:04Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Elke.pdf: 9748460 bytes, checksum: 80b7b93161d2a69664be1cdc4748bc50 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2009-06-30 / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / Tapestry is one of the oldest artistic languages that survived through time and is revealing in the world s distinct regions. This work aims to watch anachronically the Middle Ages tapestries series denominated The Lady and the Unicorn and examples of contemporary tapestries, both starting from a card and using materials and colors compatible to its time of execution. In a second moment it intends to analyze the narrator s figure, enunciated by Walter Benjamin, doing a parallel with the tapestry weaver when this passes along the technical knowledge to young tapestry weavers. This process repeats itself through time and is adapted to the realities of the many regions where it is done. Watching many examples of contemporary tapestries images it is possible to perceive a dialogue with the painting. Such the trompe l oeil as the reticule are features that appear in both languages. Maybe in the Middle Age painting was at service of the tapestry, but through time this process has changed and today tapestry searches its own identity. The first hypothesis due to this supposed change occurred in the centuries is the anachrony which Georges Didi-Huberman describes in many other artistic manifestations. The second hypothesis is that the technical resources used in the Middle Age still are the reference to the contemporary tapestry weaver. Perhaps semblance is the best definition in the search for the contemporary tapestry s identity. The third hypothesis shows that the tapestry demands an exhaustive learning time, other of card creation and work execution. Maybe the small tapestries or mini-textiles are the solution found nowadays such in factor time as the work s final costs. The research is theoretical, but is only completed through analysis of images which allow a bigger approximation to the process. This is a basic research and the theoretical-methodological references are structured in the Brazilian tapestry weaver s reality that has access to this content via Internet, books and imported magazines; however there are lacks of living changes. To present this research maybe renews and instigates the local tapestry weaver / A tapeçaria é uma das mais antigas linguagens artísticas que ao longo dos séculos vem se manifestando em regiões distintas do mundo. Este trabalho tem por objetivo observar anacronicamente a série de tapeçarias da Idade Média, denominadas A Dama e o Unicórnio e exemplares de tapeçarias contemporâneas, partindo ambas de um cartão e usando materiais e cores compatíveis com sua época de execução. Num segundo momento pretende analisar a figura do narrador, enunciado por Walter Benjamin, fazendo um paralelo com o tapeceiro quando esse repassa o conhecimento técnico aos jovens tapeceiros. Esse processo se repete ao longo dos séculos e adapta-se às realidades das diversas regiões onde é executado. Observando muitos exemplares de imagens de tapeçarias contemporâneas é possível perceber um diálogo com a pintura. Tanto o trompe l oeil como a retícula são características que se manifestam nas duas linguagens. Talvez na Idade Média a pintura estivesse a serviço da tapeçaria, mas ao longo dos tempos esse processo se modificou e hoje a tapeçaria busca sua identidade. A primeira hipótese decorrente dessa suposta mudança ocorrida ao longo dos séculos é a anacronia que Georges Didi-Huberman descreve em várias outras manifestações artísticas. A segunda hipótese é de que os recursos técnicos usados na Idade Média ainda hoje são o referencial para o tapeceiro contemporâneo. Talvez o simulacro seja a melhor definição na busca pela identidade da tapeçaria contemporânea. A terceira hipótese mostra que a tapeçaria exige um tempo exaustivo de aprendizagem, outro de criação do cartão e da execução da obra. Talvez as pequenas tapeçarias ou mini-têxteis sejam a solução encontrada na atualidade tanto no fator tempo como custo final da obra. A pesquisa é teórica, mas só se completa através da análise das imagens que possibilita uma aproximação maior com o processo. Trata-se de uma pesquisa básica e as referências teórico-metodológicas fundamentam-se na realidade do tapeceiro brasileiro que tem acesso aos conteúdos via internet, livros e revistas importadas, mas existem carências de trocas vivenciais. Apresentar essa pesquisa talvez renove e instigue o tapeceiro local

[pt] O presente estudo tem como objetivo investigar o modo como se constitui o casal a partir da escolha amorosa, com base no enfoque psicanalítico. Nele, valorizamos os aspectos intrapsíquicos e intersubjetivos como condições constitutivas do sujeito. A formação do casal tem como base os investimentos narcísicos e libidinais que cada parceiro forma para si como representação vincular. É, então, no momento da escolha amorosa que se instaura a conjugalidade e que os inconscientes individuais dos parceiros são mobilizados, dando origem ao nascimento do casal. Portanto, nosso interesse neste trabalho sobre a formação do casal e a escolha amorosa é a centralidade dos anseios edípicos no conteúdo inconsciente do desejo erótico. Podemos, assim, dizer que no plano individual, a escolha do objeto sexual permite uma saída conveniente para o complexo de Édipo e a interdição do incesto. O estudo sobre a escolha amorosa valoriza a trama edípica que marca a história do sujeito na sua alteridade, inserindo-o no campo do outro. Do ponto de vista da psicanálise de casal, na constituição da conjugalidade coexistem duas subjetividades envolvidas, nos aspectos conscientes e inconscientes, formando uma estrutura dinâmica, cujo espaço psíquico forma o núcleo eu-casal. Este espaço compartilhado em que o casal se constitui é, portanto, continente e fonte de soluções inovadoras e criativas. / [en] The present study aims to investigate how a couple is constituted from the point of view of their love choice, based on the psychoanalytic approach. In the study, we value the intrapsychic and intersubjective aspects as constitutive conditions of the subject. The constitution of the couple is based on the narcissistic and libidinal investments that each partner establishes for himself/herself as a bonding representation. At the moment of the love choice conjugality is installed and the partners individuals unconscious are mobilized bringing forth the rising of the couple. Therefore, our interest in this work on the formation of the couple and the love choice is the central role of oedipal longings in the unconscious content of erotic desire. We can say that on the individual level, the choice of the sexual object allows a convenient solution to the Oedipal complex and the interdiction of incest. The study of the love choice values the Oedipal weft that marks the subject s history in its otherness, inserting it in the field of the other partner. From the couples psychoanalytic perspective, in the constitution of conjugality two subjectivities are involved, coexisting, in the conscious and the unconscious aspects, forming a dynamic structure, whose psychic place constitutes the I-couple nucleus. This shared place in which the couple is constituted is, therefore, the continent and source of innovative and creative solutions.

Tillsammans med företaget Houdini Sportswear har det här projektets ämne och avgränsningar tagits fram. Houdini är ett svenskt klädföretag som designar friluftskläder av hög kvalitet och med stort fokus på funktion och komfort. De letar ständigt efter nya lösningar för utveckling kring smartare materialval, förbättrad funktion och komfort och mindre materialåtgång. I det här projektet vill Houdini undersöka hur man kan utveckla förhållandet mellan värmeisolering och vikt i flatstickade textila strukturer. Genom att öka textilens värmeisolerande förmåga med fokus på minskad vikt kan både materialåtgång och ökad funktion och komfort nås. En av de viktigaste faktorerna som bidrar till hög värmeisolerande förmåga är mängden instängd stilla luft i den textila strukturen. En tät ytstruktur och mycket volym med många luftfickor är därför intressant för att behålla och immobilisera luften i varan. Syftet med studien är att undersöka hur justeringar av parametrar i en distanstextil, stickad på flatstickmaskin påverkar den värmeisolerande förmågan. Tillsammans med Houdini har en viktbegränsning satts på 400 g/m2 och genom hela studien används endast en typ av ullgarn med garngrovlek Nm 48/2 för att skapa en vara som är i monomaterial och som relativt lätt kan brytas ner.   För att testa den värmeisolerande förmågan hos textilier idag använder Houdini och flera andra företag standardiserade testmetoder. På forskningsinstitutet Swerea IVF finns möjligheten att testa sina textilier med vald testmetod. Dessa metoder är dock otillgängliga och kräver avancerad utrustning som kan försvåra processen och ta lång tid. Studiens syfte är därför även att ta fram och jämföra en egen, mer lättillgänglig, framtagen testmetod för värmeisolering med två standardiserade testmetoder, SS-­ISO 5085-­1:2004 och ISO 11092:2014, för att se om och hur resultaten varierar mellan dem.   En förstudie genomförs där olika bindningar och två egna testmetoder för värmeisolering tas fram. En av testmetoderna och en distanstextil utvecklas vidare i huvudstudien. Fokus ligger på variationer av distanstrådens masklängd och placering. Samtliga prover från huvudstudien testas på den egna testmetoden och vissa utvalda prover testas på de två nämnda standardiserade testmetoderna på Swerea IVF. Sedan görs en jämförelse mellan resultaten.   Resultatet visar att det inte finns något tydligt samband mellan ökad masklängd och ökad värmeisoleringsförmåga. Däremot kan vissa slutsatser dras om att ökade intervaller av distanstrådens placering kan öka den värmeisolerande förmågan. Detta ökar dock även vikten. Resultat från mätningar med tre olika testmetoder visar att rangordningen av provers värmeisolerande förmåga skiljer sig mellan de olika metoderna. Den egna testmetoden bör därför vidareutvecklas men anses ändå ha potential för att jämföra provers värmeisolerande förmåga. / This study is a collaboration with the sportswear company Houdini Sportswear. They are looking for new ways to improve function and comfort in their garments with less material waste and choosing more sustainable materials. The aim of this study is to investigate the relationship between heat and weight in flat bed knitted spacer structures and what parameters that affects it. By creating a material with high heat insulating properties and with focus on reducing the weight it is possible to reduce the material waste and to achieve an improved function. One of the most important factors contributing to high insulation value is the amount of entrapped still air within the textile structure. This project therefore investigates how the stitch length and the placement of the spacer thread can affect the amount of air within the structure and thereby the thermal insulation. Together with Houdini a weight limit has been set to 400 g/m2 and only one type of wool yarn is used throughout the project in order to make a mono-­material fabric that can more easily degrade.   When measuring the thermal insulation properties of a fabric standardized methods are often used. These might have advanced equipment and be hard to access.The second aim of this project is therefore to develop a more accessible test method for measurement of thermal insulation in textiles and also to compare the results from the own method with the results from two standardized methods.   A pre study is made where different structures and two own developed test methods are being investigated. One of the test methods and a spacer binding is further developed in the main study where focus lies on reproducibility of the tests, and variations of the spacer thread stitch length and placement. All of the samples from the main study is tested on the own developed test method and some chosen samples are tested on two standardized test methods: ISO 5085-­1:2004 and ISO 11092:2014 at the Swedish research institute Swerea IVF. A comparison is made between the results from the three methods.   The results show that tests with our own developed test method has not been able to show a clear relationship between heat insulation and the changes of parameters in different textiles. Although, the samples that have been tested indicate that there might be a relationship between high heat insulating properties when the spacer thread is knitting more frequently. When comparing the results from the three different test methods the own developed method show different raking from the two standardized methods. The own developed test method should therefore be further developed. But still, after discussion with Valter Dejke, researcher at Swerea IVF, and Sibel Okcabol, quality manager at Swerea IVF, it is believed that the own test method could be used for comparing thermal insulating properties between textiles.

3D woven composites, due to the presence of through-thickness fibre bridging, have the potential to improve damage tolerance and at the same time to reduce the manufacturing costs. However, the ability to withstand damage depends on weave architecture as well as the geometry of individual tows. A substantial amount of research has been performed to understand in-plane properties as well as the performance of 3D woven composites exposed to impact loads, but there is limited research on the damage tolerance and notch sensitivity of 3D weaves and no work is reported on the damage tolerance of 3D weaves with a weft binding pattern. In view of the recent interest in 3D woven composites, the influence of weft binder on the tensile, open hole tensile, impact resistance and subsequent residual compressive strength properties and failure mechanisms of 3D woven composites was investigated against equivalent UD cross-ply laminate. Four different 3D woven architectures; layer-to-layer, angle interlocked, twill angle interlock and modified angle interlock structures were produced under identical weaving conditions. All the above mentioned tests were performed in both the warp and weft directions on 3D woven and UD cross-ply laminates. Stress concentration and yarn waviness due to through-thickness reinforcement led to lower mechanical properties compared with the UD cross-ply laminate. However, improved in-plane and damage tolerance properties of 3D woven composites under tensile loads were achieved by modifying the weave architecture. The influence of the weave architecture and binder yarn orientation on the notch insensitivity and damage tolerance of 3D woven composites was less significant for compressive loads. Despite the lower undamaged compression strength of 3D woven structures, their residual compressive strength was found to be superior to their equivalent UD cross-ply laminates. The lower rate of strength reduction in the 3D woven fabrics laminates was attributed to a crack bridging mechanism, effectively inhibiting delamination propagation.

Im Rahmen der vorliegenden Arbeit wird das Versuchskonzept für zweiaxiale Zug-Zug-Versuche an textilbewehrten Betonscheiben behandelt. Diese Arbeit soll einen Beitrag leisten, die Kenntnisse aus dem Maschinenbau, der Mechanik in den Bereich der Bauingenieure und Baustoffe umzusetzen, um alle Effekte, die vom Versuchstand verursacht werden, öffentlich zu machen. Es ist ein Versuchskonzept zu erarbeiten, wie ein experimenteller Zug-Zug-Versuch optimal zu gestalten ist, um das Tragverhalten des textilbewehrten Betons genau zu ermitteln. Die Arbeit ist hauptsächlich in zwei Teile gegliedert. Der erster Teil befasst sich mit dem Thema „Versuchsvorbereitung“. Es beinhaltet folgende Hauptpunkte: • Der erste Punkt beschäftigt sich mit der Auswertung durchgeführter Versuche und deren Versuchsaufbauten. Hier werden Aspekte von der konstruktiven Auslegung der Rahmen bis zur Steuerung der Prüfmaschine behandelt. Es wird diskutiert, welche Effekte auf das Versuchsergebnis vom gewählten Hydrauliksystem bzw. von den Hydraulikzylinder und der Steuerung des Öldrucks ausgehen können. • Im zweiten Punkt wird eine Finite–Element–Simulationen durchgeführt, um die zweiaxialen Zug-Zug-Versuchskörper zu konzipieren. Mit Hilfe von einem Finite–Element– Programm, hier ATENA, wird die Probengeometrie mit den Randbedingungen des Versuchs nachgebildet und optimiert. • Der dritte Punkt beschäftigt sich mit dem Thema „Lasteinleitung“. Ein Konzept für die Verbindung und Kraftübertragung von Stahlplatten (Stahllasche) zur Lasteinleitung in „Beton“ soll entwickelt werden. • Der vierte Punkt beschreibt die gewählte Messmethode der Versuchsdurchführung, und wertet deren Potenzial und Möglichkeiten . Der zweiter Teil der vorliegenden Arbeit beschreibt detailliert die fünf durchgeführten zweiaxialen Zug–Zug–Versuche an mit AR-Glas textilbewehrten Betonscheiben. Die textilbewehrten Betonscheiben werden am Rahmen der zweiaxialen Prüfmaschine eingehängt und zweiaxial mit jeweils konstantem Verhältnis der Beanspruchung in Zug–Zug Richtung belastet, um den Versuchstand zu erproben und auszutesten. Die Gedanken, Ergänzungen und Erkenntnisse der Autorin im Zusammenhang mit dem textilbewehrten Beton und die hier auftretenden Effekte werden auch in diesem Kapitel behandelt. Das Schlusskapitel der Arbeit beinhaltet die Zusammenfassung und den weiteren Ausblick. Aus diesem Anlass werden die wissenschaftlichen Erkenntnisse der vorliegenden Arbeit zusammengefasst. / This doctoral thesis pertains to the conception for Bi–axial Tension–Tension Tests of thin textile reinforced concrete plates. This dissertation contributes to the application of mechanical engineering knowledge into the specific area of Material–Construction Engineering; all results obtained from experimental conditions will be released to the public. The conception of this testing regime is presented, as well as the manner in which an experimental Tension–Tension Test can optimally ascertain and accurately predict and describe load-bearing behaviour of textile reinforced concrete (TRC). This thesis is generally subdivided into two parts –“Test Preparation” and the detail of Bi-axial Tension-Tension testing on AR-Glass TRC plates. The “Test Preparation” component of this document includes the following four principal points. The first point is concerned with the assembly of testing equipment. Problems stemming from framework or lack of control over the testing machine are examined here. Negative effects on test results induced by the Hydraulic cylinder and related oil pressure are investigated and complemented in this section. The second point focuses on the numerical simulation used in order to determine the Bi–axial Tension–Tension Test samples. The specimen geometry given the testing boundary conditions was copied and optimized by means of a Finite–Element–Program (ATENA). The third point is concerned with the notion of “load application”. It was necessary to develop a premise for the loading transmission and connection between steel plates (steel mounting plates) and concrete cogs. The final point takes into account the methods used for measuring the Bi–axial Tension–Tension–test of this work. The second component present in this thesis describes in detail the five Bi–axial Tension–Tension–Tests conducted on AR–Glass TRC plates utilized to prove and ensure the accuracy of the experimental equipment. The TRC plate was built on frame of the bi-axial testing machine and received tensile loading in both directions. This loading relationship was held constant in both directions during the test. Furthermore, the author presents her own thoughts, as well as supplemental commentary, associated with textile reinforced concrete and the resulting experimental outcomes. The last chapter closes this doctoral thesis and includes the abstract of and further prospects for this study. All scientific cognitions are summarised in this chapter.

Im Rahmen der vorliegenden Arbeit wird das Versuchskonzept für zweiaxiale Zug-Zug-Versuche an textilbewehrten Betonscheiben behandelt. Diese Arbeit soll einen Beitrag leisten, die Kenntnisse aus dem Maschinenbau, der Mechanik in den Bereich der Bauingenieure und Baustoffe umzusetzen, um alle Effekte, die vom Versuchstand verursacht werden, öffentlich zu machen. Es ist ein Versuchskonzept zu erarbeiten, wie ein experimenteller Zug-Zug-Versuch optimal zu gestalten ist, um das Tragverhalten des textilbewehrten Betons genau zu ermitteln. Die Arbeit ist hauptsächlich in zwei Teile gegliedert. Der erster Teil befasst sich mit dem Thema „Versuchsvorbereitung“. Es beinhaltet folgende Hauptpunkte: • Der erste Punkt beschäftigt sich mit der Auswertung durchgeführter Versuche und deren Versuchsaufbauten. Hier werden Aspekte von der konstruktiven Auslegung der Rahmen bis zur Steuerung der Prüfmaschine behandelt. Es wird diskutiert, welche Effekte auf das Versuchsergebnis vom gewählten Hydrauliksystem bzw. von den Hydraulikzylinder und der Steuerung des Öldrucks ausgehen können. • Im zweiten Punkt wird eine Finite–Element–Simulationen durchgeführt, um die zweiaxialen Zug-Zug-Versuchskörper zu konzipieren. Mit Hilfe von einem Finite–Element– Programm, hier ATENA, wird die Probengeometrie mit den Randbedingungen des Versuchs nachgebildet und optimiert. • Der dritte Punkt beschäftigt sich mit dem Thema „Lasteinleitung“. Ein Konzept für die Verbindung und Kraftübertragung von Stahlplatten (Stahllasche) zur Lasteinleitung in „Beton“ soll entwickelt werden. • Der vierte Punkt beschreibt die gewählte Messmethode der Versuchsdurchführung, und wertet deren Potenzial und Möglichkeiten . Der zweiter Teil der vorliegenden Arbeit beschreibt detailliert die fünf durchgeführten zweiaxialen Zug–Zug–Versuche an mit AR-Glas textilbewehrten Betonscheiben. Die textilbewehrten Betonscheiben werden am Rahmen der zweiaxialen Prüfmaschine eingehängt und zweiaxial mit jeweils konstantem Verhältnis der Beanspruchung in Zug–Zug Richtung belastet, um den Versuchstand zu erproben und auszutesten. Die Gedanken, Ergänzungen und Erkenntnisse der Autorin im Zusammenhang mit dem textilbewehrten Beton und die hier auftretenden Effekte werden auch in diesem Kapitel behandelt. Das Schlusskapitel der Arbeit beinhaltet die Zusammenfassung und den weiteren Ausblick. Aus diesem Anlass werden die wissenschaftlichen Erkenntnisse der vorliegenden Arbeit zusammengefasst. / This doctoral thesis pertains to the conception for Bi–axial Tension–Tension Tests of thin textile reinforced concrete plates. This dissertation contributes to the application of mechanical engineering knowledge into the specific area of Material–Construction Engineering; all results obtained from experimental conditions will be released to the public. The conception of this testing regime is presented, as well as the manner in which an experimental Tension–Tension Test can optimally ascertain and accurately predict and describe load-bearing behaviour of textile reinforced concrete (TRC). This thesis is generally subdivided into two parts –“Test Preparation” and the detail of Bi-axial Tension-Tension testing on AR-Glass TRC plates. The “Test Preparation” component of this document includes the following four principal points. The first point is concerned with the assembly of testing equipment. Problems stemming from framework or lack of control over the testing machine are examined here. Negative effects on test results induced by the Hydraulic cylinder and related oil pressure are investigated and complemented in this section. The second point focuses on the numerical simulation used in order to determine the Bi–axial Tension–Tension Test samples. The specimen geometry given the testing boundary conditions was copied and optimized by means of a Finite–Element–Program (ATENA). The third point is concerned with the notion of “load application”. It was necessary to develop a premise for the loading transmission and connection between steel plates (steel mounting plates) and concrete cogs. The final point takes into account the methods used for measuring the Bi–axial Tension–Tension–test of this work. The second component present in this thesis describes in detail the five Bi–axial Tension–Tension–Tests conducted on AR–Glass TRC plates utilized to prove and ensure the accuracy of the experimental equipment. The TRC plate was built on frame of the bi-axial testing machine and received tensile loading in both directions. This loading relationship was held constant in both directions during the test. Furthermore, the author presents her own thoughts, as well as supplemental commentary, associated with textile reinforced concrete and the resulting experimental outcomes. The last chapter closes this doctoral thesis and includes the abstract of and further prospects for this study. All scientific cognitions are summarised in this chapter.