Thesis (Ph. D.)--Columbia University, 1998. / Description based on print version record. Includes bibliographical references (p. [181]-186) and index.

Zugl.: München, Techn. Univ., Diss., 2005 u.d.T.: Schier, Michaela: Arbeitsformentscheidungen von Frauen in der Modebranche

Thesis (Ph. D.)--State University of New York at Binghamton, Department of History, 2008. / Includes bibliographical references.

Thesis (Ph.D.)--Columbia University, 1998. / Includes bibliographical references (p. [181]-186) and index.

M.A. (Sociology) / The increasing deployment of clothing factories in the border industrial areas, has resulted in an increase in the demand for black female labour in this industry. This need, together with a sharp decline in the number of black male employees in the clothing industry, traditionally employed in all functional levels, forced employees to invest in black female labour on a large scale. It is practice to select first level supervisory staff from the higher operator levels, but a shortage of male workers in these positions created opportunities for black female operators to fulfil the need for supervisory staff. This however resulted in complications for both black women and employers, since factors emerged that could affect the black woman's achievement orientation. The objective of this research is to determine a job profile for the black woman in terms of her achievement orientation and also to investigate other variables that relate to her job profile and achievement orientation. Research conducted in this field on the European woman's achievement orientation, provided a framework for an explorative and qualitative research study on the achievement orientation of 15 non-supervisory and 15 supervisory black women. In order to gather sufficient information, interview guides were developed as an aid to conducting personal interviews with the sample group. A similar method was applied in investigating the attitude towards black female supervision, of 15 black male supervisors and 4 employers. From the case studies, three job profiles were distinguished namely a high achievement/high economical, a moderate achievement/moderate economical and a non-achievement/low economical orientated profile. For purposes of analysis the three profiles were reduced to two, namely an achievement/economical and a non-achievement/low economical orientated profile.

The purpose of the present study is to determine what per cent of dresses manufactured by Dallas dress manufacturers is produced to meet the needs of tall women.

Denna studie är en kandidatuppsats inom ämnet textilteknologi med inriktning på designteknik. Studien undersöker skillnader mellan två olika graderingsmetoder. Undersökningen görs på uppdrag av ett svenskt modeföretag som vill undersöka om kundernas returer med anledningen ”fel storlek”, kan bero på graderingen. Syftet är att hitta en metod som gör att proportionerna i grundstorleken bibehålls även i de större storlekarna. Men också undersöka rörelseviddens roll för god balans i såväl grundstorleken som i största storleken. De två graderingsmetoder som jämförs är proportionell gradering och gradering med procentuell rörelsevidd. Som utgångspunkt skapas olika måttlistor anpassade efter de olika metoderna. Sedan graderas en tunika och en kofta, tillhandahållna från företaget. En 3D-avprovning görs för att utvärdera den visuella passformen, skillnaden mellan metoderna samt hur lik passformen blev den ursprungliga passformen för grundstorleken. Plaggmåttlistor jämförs samt visuella skillnader på mönsterdelar. En passformsjustering på en av modellerna görs för att undersöka hur det påverkar passformen i den största storleken. Resultatet av studien visar att det blir skillnad mellan de olika metoderna både visuellt på 3D-avprovningen, på mönsterdelarna samt värdemässigt i måttlistorna. Hur stora skillnaderna blir mellan metoderna beror på mängden rörelsevidd i grundstorleken. Dessutom observerades att skillnaderna mellan metoderna ökade ju längre ifrån grundstorleken en storlek befann sig. Resultatet av 3D-avprovningen visade att det är viktigt att passformen i grundstorleken är god innan gradering påbörjas och att det är fördelaktigt för plagg med mycket rörelsevidd att gradera med procentuell rörelsevidd. / This study is a bachelor's thesis in the field of textile technology with focus on design technology. The study examines differences between two different grading methods. The survey is carried out on behalf of a Swedish fashion company that wants to investigate whether the customers' returns for the "wrong size" reason may be due to the grading. The aim is to find a method that keeps the proportions in the basic size even in the larger sizes. But also investigate the role of ease for good balance in both the basic size and the largest size. The two grading methods that are compared are proportional grading and grading with percentage ease. As a starting point, different measurement lists are created adapted to the different methods. Then a tunic and a cardigan, provided by the company, are graded. A 3D fitting is done to evaluate the visual fit, the difference between the methods and how similar the fit became the original fit for the basic size. Garment measurement lists are compared as well as visual differences on pattern parts. A fit adjustment on one of the models is done to investigate how it affects the fit in the largest size. The result of the study shows that there is a difference between the different methods, both visually on the 3D test, on the pattern parts and in terms of value in the measurement lists. The magnitude of the differences between the methods depends on the amount of ease in the basic size. In addition, it was observed that the differences between the methods increased the further from the basic size. The result of the 3D test showed that it is important that the fit in the basic size is good before grading and that it is preferable for garments with a lot of ease to be graded with a percentage ease.

Thesis (Ph.D.)--University of California, Berkeley, 1994. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves 354-392).

Thesis (Ph.D.)--Columbia University, 1998. / Includes bibliographical references (p. [181]-186) and index.