An important dimension of contemporary capitalism is the global spread of intellectual property rights law, drawing new attention by governments and media to the unauthorized copying of fashion brands. In this dissertation, I draw on sixteen months of ethnographic research with small-scale, indigenous Maya garment manufacturers to examine the cultural and moral context of brand piracy in Guatemala. I analyze what practices of copying and imitation, some of which qualify as piracy under national and international law, among Maya manufacturers reveal about two aspects of the social field: first, changing economic and cultural conditions following waves of neoliberal economic and legal reform, and, second, the nonlinear reproduction of forms of moral and legal reckoning at the margins of the global economy and amidst mounting insecurities that include rising violent crime rates and legal impunity for violent crime. I examine how practices of copying and imitation among manufacturers and competitive behavior more generally are evaluated locally in light of kin relations that promote the sharing of knowledge and resources within a somewhat loose property regime and given ideologies of race and nation that encourage class-based solidarity among Maya people. I find that the normative models and business practices evident among these manufacturers parochialize official portraits of progress, business ethics, and development promoted in neoliberal policy agendas and international law. In addition, I analyze significant gaps between what fashion and branding mean in Guatemalan Maya communities and how they are understood in international projects of legal harmonization that are also about re-branding and re-imagining the Guatemalan nation. Neoliberal statecraft following a long internal armed conflict in Guatemala involves policy approaches that amplify the presence of global brands while compounding conditions of social and economic inequality that limit Maya men and women’s access to authorized goods. Meanwhile, Maya people are invited to participate in a modernist vision of citizenship and social progress that encourages a privatized model of indigenous identity mediated by branded commodities and formal market transactions. The brand emerges as a powerful medium through which claims to legitimacy and authority and senses of belonging are negotiated at national and local levels. / Anthropology

A global trend of decreased Willingness to pay(WTP) price premiums for national brands prevails.In this paper, the authors shed light on how national brands(NBs) can best defend their pricepremiums towards Private labels(PLs). This is done through studying what factors drives the WTPprice premiums for national brands and what attributes are important when consumers buy meatproducts.With inputs from the literature and conducted focus groups, a questionnaire testing our constructedhypothesis and the importance of attributes were collected from 163 respondents. A connection ismade to the theory of positioning using a customer-based brand equity concept.The results show that the WTP is driven by high perceived risk, perceived quality gap between NBsand PLs, is moderated by consumer involvement and mediated through PL experience. Swedishmeat, good animal husbandry, supporting farmers and locally produced meat were all importantattributes national brands should associate with their brands.

När ett företag väljer att utvidga sitt varumärke kan det av olika anledningar antingen gynna eller missgynna varumärkets värde. Risken att strategin påverkar varumärket negativt är större hos varumärken och det är svårt att implementera strategin rätt för att det inte ska skada imagen. Flera lyxvarumärken har någon typ av varumärkesutvidgning för att kunna öka sin tillväxt och det finns olika sätt att utföra strategin. Den här studien har fokuserats på vertikal varumärkesutvidgning nedåt hos lyxvarumärken inom modebranschen där utvidgningen erbjuder alternativ med lägre priser. Genom varumärkesutvidgningar kan det uppstå problem när företag sänker priset för att nå nya segment. Det kan då komma till en punkt där varumärket överexpanderas och exklusiviteten i märket påverkas negativt och därmed försvagas. Syftet med den här studien var att undersöka hur konsumenters attityder förändras när företag utvidgar sitt varumärke med ökad tillgänglighet för konsumenter till följd. I den teoretiska referensramen beskrivs begreppet varumärkesutvidgning och vilka faktorer som påverkar när det uppstår negativa effekter. Relevanta artiklar hjälper till att förstå bakgrunden till fenomenet och tidigare forskning visar hur varumärkesutvidgning kan vara ett problem för just lyxvarumärken. Metoden som har använts är av kvalitativ form där tio stycken intervjuer genomfördes. Respondenterna bestod av kvinnor i åldern 20-30 år och frågorna fokuserades på deras attityder mot varumärkesutvidgning som strategi och hur uppfattningen kring ett lyxvarumärke kan förändras när tillgängligheten ökar. Resultatet visar att det fanns både positiva och negativa uppfattningar om lyxvarumärken som blir mer tillgängliga. Respondenterna menade att då det skapas nya produkter till lägre priser får de själva möjlighet att konsumera märket, men samtidigt kan det också skada värdet och exklusiviteten. Ökad tillgänglighet kan ge nya målgrupper vilket också kan riskera att skada företagets image hos den ursprungliga målgruppen. I Resultatdiskussionen analyserades intervjuerna och tidigare teorier om varumärkesutvidgning kopplades till respondenternas svar. Diskussionen blev uppdelad utifrån resultatets fem olika kategorier där varje kategori analyseras enskilt. I avsnittet om studiens trovärdighet visas hur tillförlitlig undersökningen är i förhållande till det slutgiltiga resultatet. Där diskuteras kritiska synpunkter men också hur studien på ett positivt sätt kan bidra till vidare forskning. Slutsatsen från denna undersökning är att vertikal varumärkesutvidgning nedåt fungerar, under förutsättning att det finns en noggrann strategi för prisnivå och nya målgrupper. Förslagsvis kan strategin baseras på en ingående marknadsundersökning och med rätt underlag kan målgrupp och pris fastställas, för att undvika att varumärkets image skadas. / When a company chooses to extend their brand can it either favor or disfavor the brands’ value. The negative risk with this strategy is bigger when it comes to luxury brands and it is hard to implement the right strategy without damaging the image. There are several luxury brands that use some kind of brand extension to be able to increase the profit and there are different ways to perform the strategy. This study was focused on downward brand extensions for luxury brands in the fashion industry where the extension offers alternatives to a lower price. When a company that offers luxury brands lowers the price to reach new segment, problems can easily be developed. It can come to a point where the brand overextends and the exclusivity in the brand can be affected negatively and therefore be diluted. The purpose with this study was to investigate how consumers’ attitudes change when companies extend their brand and make it more accessible for everyone. The concept of brand extension is described in the theoretical framework and what factors affect when negative effects develop. Relevant articles assist to understand the background to this phenomenon and earlier research show how brand extension can be a problem specifically for luxury brands. The method that has been used is qualitative and ten interviews were made with women in the age of 20-30. The questions were focused on the respondents’ attitudes towards brand extension as a strategy and how the perception about a brand can change when it becomes more accessible. The result shows that there were both positive and negative perceptions about luxury brands when accessibility increases. The respondents meant that when new products are created to lower prices they get the opportunity to consume the brand themselves, but at the same time it can still damage the value and the exclusivity. An increase in accessibility can crate new target groups, which can also risk damaging the image of the company among the individuals in the original target group. In the results discussion the interviews were analyzed and earlier theories about brand extension were connected to the answers of the respondents. The discussion was divided into the five categories from the result where every category was analyzed separately. In the part where the methodology discussion is presented, it shows how reliable the research is relative to the final result. The critical standing points were discussed but also how the study in a positive way can contribute to further research. The conclusion from this study is that downward vertical brand extension works, subject to there is an accurate strategy for price level and new target groups. As a suggestion the strategy can be based on a more thorough market research and with the right foundation both target groups and price can be determined, to avoid damage of the brands’ image.

An emerging literature stream posits that drawing on users rather than internal designers in new product creation may benefit firms because the resulting products effectively satisfy consumer needs. Four studies conducted in the context of the luxury fashion industry uncover an important conceptual boundary condition of this positive user-design effect. Contrary to extant research, the results show that being "close" to users does not help but rather harms luxury fashion brands. Specifically, the authors find that user design backfires because consumer demand for a given luxury fashion brand collection is reduced if the collection is labeled as user (vs. company) designed. The results further reveal the underlying rationale for this reversal: user-designed luxury products are perceived to be lower in quality and fail to signal high status, which results in a loss of agentic feelings for the consumer. The authors explore several strategies luxury brands can pursue to overcome this negative user-design effect. Finally, they find that negative outcomes of user design are attenuated for luxury fashion products that are not used for status signaling - that is, product categories of a luxury brand that are characterized by lower status relevance for the consumer. (authors' abstract)

This study focuses on the importance of clothing brands on the purchasing decisions of Generation Y individuals. The research concentrates specifically on university students aged between 17 to 26 years, located in the Vaal Triangle Area. This study aims to determine if this group of Generation Y members are brand conscious in their choices of clothing brands and what influences or motivates them to buy clothing brands. The findings suggest that Generation Y students are brand conscious, in that the right choice of clothing helps them create an image and identity for themselves. Peer and family influences play a crucial role in their choice of brands as it aids in their socialisation process. In addition, advertising is an important variable in communicating brand values and establishing an image for the brand. Celebrities also have an impact on branded clothing as they promote certain attributes such as image, quality and status. However, the results of this study are limited given that the study was only conducted amongst students in the Vaal Triangle area. Furthermore, the research does not follow the individuals over time to see how their brand choices might have changed. In order to maintain Generation Y students’ loyalty, it is recommended that brand managers focus on building an emotional attachment to make their brands special and bring a lasting competitive advantage. In addition, advertising should be used not only to create awareness but also to influence brand image and preference. Generation Y individuals establish their brand preferences at an early age especially during their years of study and, therefore, targeting this consumer group may be rewarding because with careful promotions, marketers can create a group of brand loyal customers for the future. / MCom (Business Management), North-West University, Vaal Triangle Campus, 2014

In China, an increasing number of individuals and companies are adopting microblogging, a popular form of social media, in order to connect and interact with other people, and recent online events indicate the power of microblogging in Chinese society. Holding the belief that microblogging brings out the interactive nature of new media as well as the audiences, many companies are exploring microblogging in order to better communicate with their audiences. However, very little is known about how those brands use microblogging to promote themselves and what the audiences’ preferences are on this platform. Employing uses and gratifications and feminism theories, this study examined how fashion brands use Weibo.com, one of the main microblogging platforms in China, to promote themselves and what the Chinese women, the main audience of both Weibo.com and fashion brands, ask for from fashion brands’ tweets. The quantitative content analysis of the tweets of three major fashion brands, namely Burberry, Louis Vuitton, and Bvlgari, shows the general pattern of how microblogging are being deployed. A further investigation was conducted through ethnographic content analysis in order to examine the implicit values conveyed by fashion brand’s tweets and the audiences’ preferences towards these values. Results from the analyses revealed that the prevailing topics covered in the fashion brands’ tweets included their products, related celebrities, and the brands’ events or projects, and fashion brands usually combined several topics in one tweet in order to provide more information to the audiences. Taken a deeper look at the latent message of the tweets, fashion appears to play a positive role in emancipating contemporary Chinese women.

Syfte & forskningsfråga Uppsatsens syfte har varit att, ur ett företagsperspektiv, undersöka och analysera vad som motiverar företag att använda kändisar som talespersoner i sina reklamfilmer. Vi ville undersöka hur företag väljer vilken kändis de ska samarbeta med och vad som krävs av kändisen vid ett samarbete. Vi ville även identifiera vilka positiva och negativa effekter det kan ge för varumärken, samt vilka risker det finns med att använda kändisar i sina reklamfilmer. Utifrån vårt syfte formade vi vår forskningsfråga: Hur påverkas varumärken av att använda kändisar som talespersoner?   Metod Uppsatsen är skriven med en kvalitativ forskningsmetod och en induktiv ansats. Vårt empiriska material har samlats in genom sju kvalitativa intervjuer med respondenter som vi anser är relevanta för ämnet, både via telefon och personliga intervjuer. Vi har under hela uppsatsens gång strävat efter att våra teoretiska källor ska vara så aktuella och ämnesspecifika som möjligt. Därför har vi lagt stor vikt vid att i största möjliga mån använda oss utav artiklar publicerade i vetenskapliga tidsskrifter.   Slutsatser I vår uppsatsprocess har det framkommit att kändissamarbeten är en mycket lyckad marknadsföringsstrategi eftersom det kan ge varumärket uppmärksamhet, ökad varumärkeskännedom och ett ökat kundintresse. Det har även tydliggjorts att om matchningen mellan kändisen och varumärket inte stämmer överens kan detta ge negativa effekter för företaget. Trots det har ändå studien visat att fördelarna med kändissamarbeten väger över de eventuella riskerna.   Nyckelord: Kändisar, talespersoner, varumärken, reklam. / The purpose of this study has been to analyze, through a business perspective, how brands get affected by using a celebrity as a spokesperson and what motivation factors that drives the collaboration. We wanted to examine how brands choose which celebrity to collaborate with and what is required from the celebrity. We also wanted to identify the positive and negative effects as well as the risks that may occur when using a celebrity as a spokesperson.   In relation to our purpose we have chosen the following question: How do brands get affected by using celebrities as spokespersons? This study is based on a qualitative research methodology with an inductive approach. To gather our empirical material we conducted seven interviews with respondents relevant to our essay. Throughout the essay process our mission has been to gather theoretical sources that are up-to-date and as relevant as possible. That is why we have aimed to use articles published in scientific publications as widely as possible.   Our essay process has revealed that celebrity endorsement is a very successful advertising strategy, since it can increase brand attention, brand awareness and create customer interest. It has also emerged that if the match does not fit between the brand and the celebrity, negative effects for the brand may occur. Despite this, the study has shown that the benefits with celebrity endorsement overcome the potential risks.       Keywords: Celebrities, spokespersons, brands, advertising.

Diss. (sammanfattning) Uppsala : Uppsala universitet, 2007. / Härtill 4 uppsatser.

Diss. Jönköping : Internationella handelshögskolan, 2009.

This submission for PhD by publication consists of a portfolio of nine peer reviewed and published papers. The research presented in the portfolio contributes to theory, knowledge and discussion in the area of retail marketing. The common theme of the papers is competition in grocery retailing, and specifically the way that retail marketing strategy and supply chain relations affects retail competition and outcomes for consumers. While the nine papers share a common approach in how grocery retailers compete through pricing and product choices along with their trading terms with suppliers, each individual paper addresses a distinctive central question: How does pricing competition change in the wake of a major merger in the retail grocery sector? How do grocery retailers respond in their pricing, promotion and advertising to the onset of a macro-economic crisis? Do grocery retailers encourage excessive consumption of alcohol by under-shifting excise duty increases on cheap alcohol? Why do retailers use value size pricing and offer bargain prices on jumbo-sized sugary drinks that encourages harmful excessive consumption? Is retail buyer power over suppliers detrimental to competition? In what circumstances might the development and promotion of brands and private labels be deleterious to consumers interests? How should competition authorities and practitioners assess the extent of competition between brands and private labels? How can the development of copycat private labels directly mimicking leading brands result in higher overall prices for consumers? Do retailers manipulate grocery prices to favour private labels over brands? Beyond their academic research contribution, the findings and insights provided in the papers both individually and collectively have relevance to retailers, suppliers, consumers, regulators and policymakers in desiring to see an efficient, well-functioning and dynamic grocery retail sector.