Orientador: Sidney Chalhoub / Tese (doutorado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Instituto de Filosofia e Ciências Humanas / Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-20T04:25:17Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Xavier_Giovana_D.pdf: 23553159 bytes, checksum: 48455bff161cd53573e3132dfabc9ddd (MD5) Previous issue date: 2012 / Resumo: Esta tese investiga as representações femininas presentes em propagandas de produtos de clareamento de pele (bleachings) e crescedores capilares (hair growers) da indústria cosmética, veiculadas pela imprensa afro-americana em Boston, Chicago e Nova York, cidades que, entre os anos 1890 e 1930, passaram por uma série de transformações sociais por conta do fenômeno historicamente conhecido como Grande Migração Negra. Ao considerar o processo de urbanização vivenciado pela população de cor que chegava aos milhares no norte do país, enfatizamos a emergência de um capitalismo negro que tinha no "mercado da beleza" um de seus principais ramos comerciais. Nesse sentido, o estudo do papel de "empresárias da raça" como Annie Minerva Pope Turnbo-Malone e Madam C. J. Walker, à luz das contribuições da Business History, leva-nos a lançar mão do conceito de "cosmética negra", entendida aqui como um conjunto de pequenas, médias e grandes empresas, que conduzidas com o capital e a força de trabalho afro-americanos, tinham como um de seus principais objetivos associar lucro financeiro e defesa da "feminilidade negra", a partir da confecção e venda de manufaturados que prometiam uma "boa aparência" para suas consumidoras. Ao explorar associações ambíguas entre good look e pele clara, a pesquisa também examina a construção de uma noção racializada de beleza específica dos negros num contexto de pós-emancipação. Diferentemente do ocorrido na publicidade da cosmetologia branca, tal noção mostra que companhias afro-americanas como a Poro Hair Beauty Culture, a Overton Hygienic Company e a Madam C. J. Walker Manufacturing Company investiram severos esforços na construção de referenciais visuais que conjugassem honra, distinção e equidade social para as "mulheres da raça". Dentro de uma perspectiva que articula gênero, racialização, classe, cosmética e modernidade, observa-se que ser considerada uma "nova mulher negra", como se dizia à época, não era um feito para todas. Para gozar de tal status era necessário possuir visual discreto, comportamento recatado, alto grau de instrução, mas, sobretudo, pele clara. Assim, ao atrelar físico e comportamento, o referido protótipo marcava a preocupação da comunidade intelectual (editores, jornalistas, publicitários, colunistas, artistas, etc.) em criar representações condizentes com uma noção de "feminilidade respeitada", que, por seu turno, revelava o investimento numa "cultura da pele mulata", facilmente captada pelas inúmeras fotografias de mulheres quase brancas, predominantes nas páginas de dezenas de jornais, revistas e catálogos de beleza da "raça". Nesse sentido, a cosmetologia e a imprensa negras foram duas das maiores responsáveis pela produção de uma "beleza cívica" oriunda de um sistema "colorista" calcado na valorização das mulatas em detrimento das blacks (negras retintas). Fato ainda desconhecido pela historiografia brasileira, tais propagandas descortinam formas múltiplas pelas quais as classes alta e média negras criaram suas próprias interpretações e soluções para questões relacionadas à eugenia, ao higienismo, à miscigenação, à urbanização e à segregação racial, abrindo espaço para futuras investigações sobre uma História Social da Beleza Negra / Abstract: This dissertation examines representations of women in advertisements for skin-bleaching and hair-growing products in the cosmetics industry, which appeared in the African American press in Boston, Chicago and New York. Between the 1890s and 1930s, these cities underwent a series of social transformations as a result of the phenomenon referred to by historians as the Great African American Migration. Analyzing the process of urbanization experienced by the population of color, who arrived in their thousands in the north of the country, emphasis will be placed on the emergence of black capitalism, which one of its greatest commercial interests in the beauty industry. The study of the role of black businesswomen like Annie Minerva Pope Turnbo-Malone and Madam C. J. Walker, and their contributions to business history, leads us to the concept of "black cosmetics." This is herein understood as a group of small, medium and large businesses which, drawing on African American capital and labor, aimed to unite profit with the defense of "black femininity," via the production and sale of products that promised their consumers a "good appearance." By exploring the ambiguous associations between "looking good" and whiteness of skin, the study also examines the construction of a specifically racialized notion of beauty held by blacks in the post-emancipation United States. This notion reveals how, unlike white beauty advertisers, African American companies like Poro Hair Beauty Culture, Overton Hygienic Company and Madam C J Walker Manufacturing Company invested considerable efforts in constructing visual imagery which could confer honor, distinction and social equality on black women. Taking a perspective that brings together gender, racialization, class, beauty and modernity, the dissertation observes how being considered a "new black woman," as the phrase went at the time, was not attainable by all women. In order enjoy such a status, it was important to possess a visual image that emphasized discretion, modest behavior, a high standard of education, but, above all, light skin. Equating looks with behavior, this prototype demonstrated the desire of the intellectual community (editors, journalists, advertising companies, columnists, artists, etc) to create images that chimed with a notion of "respectable femininity." This, in turn, demonstrated a deep investment in a "mulatto culture," easily captured by innumerable photographs of nearly-white women which dominated the pages of dozens of African American newspapers, magazines and beauty catalogues. Thus, the cosmetics industry and the black press were two of the most influential entities in the creation of "civic beauty," derived from a colorist system which favored mixed-race women over black women. Brazilian historiography has yet to examine how such advertisements reveal the many ways in which the black upper and middle classes created their own interpretations and solutions for issues of eugenics, hygiene, miscegenation, urbanization and racial segregation. This, in the future, might lead us to a social history of black beauty / Doutorado / Historia Social / Doutor em História

Dans cette thèse, nous avons démontré la faisabilité de la préparation de polymères à empreinte moléculaires (MIP) hautement sélectifs pour la reconnaissance dans des matrices aqueuses complexes avec des applications dans les cosmétiques et en technologie alimentaire. Les MIP (de l'anglais molecularly imprinted polymers) sont des récepteurs synthétiques comparables aux anticorps, qui sont synthétisés par co-polymérisation de monomères fonctionnels et réticulants en présence d'un gabarit moléculaire. Leurs propriétés de reconnaissance moléculaire, associées à leur grande stabilité, robustesse mécanique, faible coût et leur synthèse facile les rendent extrêmement intéressants comme matériaux de capture sélective, avec des applications dans les séparations analytiques, la détection et la vectorisation des médicaments. Cependant, leur reconnaissance sélective dans des milieux aqueux reste toujours problématique et c'est l'une des raisons de leur expansion commerciale restreinte. Dans une première partie, nous avons développé un MIP fonctionnant en milieu aqueux pour son application comme ingrédient actif dans un déodorant. Les odeurs corporelles sont principalement dues à des acides gras volatils générés à partir de leurs précurseurs, des conjugués de glutamine par des enzymes hydrolytiques produites à partir de bactéries présentes sur la peau. La plupart des anti-transpirants et des déodorants actuellement commercialisés contiennent des sels d'aluminium et des agents antibactériens non spécifiques, respectivement. Cependant, l'utilisation extrêmement étendue de ces produits nécessite des solutions alternatives en ce qui concerne divers problèmes (environnement, respect de l'écosystème de la peau, toxicité, etc.). Pour cette raison, un MIP a été synthétisé pour capturer les précurseurs conjugués de glutamine afin qu'ils ne soient plus disponibles aux bactéries, empêchant ainsi leur transformation en composés malodorants. Afin de générer des liaisons sélectifs dans des environnements aqueux, un monomère à base d'amidinium qui peut former une interaction électrostatique stoechiométrique forte avec les groupes carboxyle sur le gabarit moléculaire a été synthétisé. Le MIP, mélangé dans une formulation dermo-cosmétique, pourrait capter sélectivement les précurseurs conjugués de glutamine, au milieu d'une multitude d'autres molécules présentes dans la sueur humaine. En outre, le MIP n’affecte pas les bactéries de la peau, ouvrant la voie à des déodorants innovateurs de nouvelle génération, moins problématiques pour la santé. Dans une deuxième partie, nous avons développé une procédure rapide et efficace basée sur l'extraction en phase solide à empreinte moléculaire (MISPE) pour la purification sélective de la bétanine et de son stéréoisomère l’isobétanine à partir d'extraits de betterave. La bétanine est un pigment naturel ayant un fort pouvoir antioxydant et dont les propriétés pharmacologiques sont de plus en plus étudiées. Ce pigment est actuellement utilisé comme simple colorant alimentaire. Dans notre étude, l'acide dipicolinique a été utilisé comme gabarit moléculaire pour la synthèse de MIP, en raison de sa similarité structurelle avec le groupe chromophore de la bétanine. Les procédures MISPE ont été optimisées permettant l'élimination presque complète des glucides issus de la matrice végétale ainsi que la majorité des protéines, ce qui permet d'obtenir un rendement élevé d'extraction de la bétanine / isobétanine en une seule étape. De plus, toute la procédure d'extraction a été réalisée dans des solvants respectueux de l'environnement, tels que l'éthanol ou l'eau. Pour conclure, nous sommes convaincus que ce travail pave le chemin au développement d'une nouvelle génération des MIP fonctionnant en milieu aqueux avec des propriétés de reconnaissance améliorées dans des environnements complexes, qui pourra s'appliquer également à d'autres domaines biotechnologiques et biomédicaux. / In this thesis, we have demonstrated the feasibility of preparing highly selective molecularly imprinted polymers (MIPs) for recognition in complex aqueous matrices with applications in cosmetics and food technology. MIPs are synthetic tailor-made receptors, with binding affinities and specificities comparable to those of natural antibodies. Their molecular recognition properties, combined with their high stability, mechanical robustness, low cost and easy synthesis make them extremely attractive as selective capture materials with applications in analytical and preparative separations, sensing and drug delivery, among others. However, their selective recognition in aqueous samples still remains problematic and is one of the reasons for their so far lilited commercial expansion. In the first part, we developed a water compatible MIP for its application as an active ingredient in a deodorant. Body odors are mainly due to volatile fatty acids generated from their glutamine conjugate precursors by hydrolytic enzymes from bacteria present on the skin. Most currently marketed anti-perspirants and deodorants contain, respectively aluminum salts and unspecific antibacterials. However, the extremely wide use of these products requires alternative solutions with regard to various problems (environmental, respect of skin ecosystem, toxicity, etc.). For this reason, a MIP was developed to capture the glutamine conjugate precursors so that they are no longer available to the bacteria, thus preventing their transformation to malodorous compounds. In order to generate binding selectivity in aqueous environments, an amidinium-based monomer which can form a strong stoichiometric electrostatic interaction with the carboxyl groups on the template, was synthesized. The MIP, blended in a dermo-cosmetic formulation, could capture selectively the glutamine precursors, amidst a multitude of other molecules present in human sweat. Furthermore, the MIP did not affect the skin bacteria, paving the way to an innovative and 'safer ' future-generation deodorant. In the second part, we developed a fast and efficient procedure based on molecularly imprinted solid­ phase extraction (MISPE) for the selective clean-up of betanin and its stereoisomer isobetanin from red beetroot extracts. Betanin is a natural pigment with significant antioxidant and biological activities currently used as food colorant. Dipicolinic acid was used as template for the MIP synthesis, because of its structural similarity to the chromophore group of betanin The MISPE procedures were optimized allowing the almost complete removal of carbohydrates and the majority of proteins, resulting in high extraction recovery of betanin / isobetanin in a single step. Moreover, the whole extraction procedure was performed in environmentally friendly solvents with either ethanol or water. To conclude, we believe that this study paves the way towards the development of a new generation of water compatible MIPs with improved recognition properties in highly complex aqueous environments, and should be applicable to other biotechnological and biomedical areas as well.

This diploma thesis looks at lobbying as one of the tools for shaping European legislation. Lobbyists are often perceived as carriers of valuable information that make it possible for decision-makers to get expert opinions and perspectives directly from the industry. Lobbyists can therefore make a significant contribution to policy making and to improving European legislation that meets the needs of stakeholders. The main objective of the thesis is to find out in what way and at what stages the interest groups participate and intervene in the EU decision-making process and identify the access points through which they can enter into the legislative process. For the sake of clarity, this research is applied to a particular case of lobbying in the field of animal testing of cosmetics, which has greatly influenced the legal regulation of the area.

A basic assumption in the thesis is that the expansion of production and consumption in the Swedish society during the first half of the 20th century involved market as well as consumer activities of a new kind. The thesis explores the development and practice of marketing towards consumers as a main activity of actors in the market, how it was formulated in textbooks an trade journals and followed up in the activity of two Swedish companies (Barnängen and MEA, Militärekiperingsaktiebolaget). The focus is on the period 1920-1965. In the first part the main lines of the dissertation is drawn. The second part focus on texts on marketing and the main characteristics of the period is discussed. It covers the topics of marketing, distribution, advertising and selling on a general level. In two more detailed chapters, the topics of market analysis and the marketing problems and praxis in retailing is dealt with. The third part focus on the practice in the two companies. Market research from the company of Barnängen is examined with the focus on products, groups of consumers, which technique was used, how and if recommendations were followed up in product politics or advertising. The results showed a shift in the use of techniques and product politics towards more sophisticated instruments and a closer relation to a wider market. Retailers use of marketing practice is examined in the company of MEA (Militär Ekiperings Aktiebolaget). The result showed a shift in both use of advertising and advertised products over the period 1930-1960. It was also detected a shit in the relation to the market that went from customer relation to a more anonymous consumer market. The fourth part ties the normative and practical levels together. The consequences for the consumers are also taken in for discussion. It showed that in the overall perspective a change towards a wider consumer market took place.

The topic of the thesis is launching a new brand of decorative cosmetics on the Czech market. The goal is to summarize and critically evaluate the whole process and the marketing mix of the brand. The focus will be mainly on the activities realized as a part of the communication mix. The evaluating methods will be market research (sell out and competitors' activities analysis) that provides us with the information about sales, market shares and competitors. The other method will be consumer research (questionnaire, focus groups, observing) that informs us about opinions, attitudes and preferences of the consumers. Based on these findings there is a list of recommendations concerning marketing mix, which should help the brand to achieve stability and continuous development.

This is a step-by-step cosmetology handbook with instructions and techniques employed by professional makeup artists to transform a woman from average to gorgeous.

El presente trabajo de investigación busca sustentar el emprendimiento de un proyecto empresarial dentro del rubro cosmético basado en la elaboración de una crema facial dirigido al segmento masculino de los distritos top de Lima. La ventaja competitiva del producto radica en su componente principal, siendo la manteca del cacao blanco piurano, extraído de los valles de la zona norte del Perú, por sus cualidades antioxidantes, hidratantes y rejuvenecedoras. Esta idea de negocio surge por la necesidad de los varones, que al igual que las mujeres, cada día buscan verse mejor en el cuidado de su piel y por ello dentro de su presupuesto destinan una parte para el cuidado de su rostro. Asimismo, ante esta situación de pandemia que vivimos por el Covid-19, el reto es aún mayor ya que los efectos de la cuarentena han ocasionado estrés, alergias y resequedad de la piel en el rostro. La empresa está conformada por profesionales, cada uno especialista en su disciplina, que con sus conocimientos y pasión en lo que hacen lograrán que la empresa surja, se consolide y se mantenga en el tiempo haciendo uso responsable de los recursos y enfocándose en el cliente. En ese sentido, para el desarrollo del proyecto, y sobre todo para la comercialización y distribución del producto se necesita una inversión de S/.70,502 Soles, de los cuales se está solicitando un financiamiento bancario del 30% y 70% con capital propio. / This research work seeks to support the business project entrepreneurial in the cosmetic field based on the elaboration of a facial cream aimed at the male segment of the top districts of Lima. The competitive advantage of the product lies in its main component, being the white cocoa butter, wich is from Piura, extracted from the valleys of the north of Peru, for its antioxidant, moisturizing and rejuvenating qualities. This business idea arises from the need of men, who, like women, seek to see themselves better in the care of their skin every day and therefore, within their budget, they allocate a part for the care of their face. Likewise, in the face of this pandemic situation that we are experiencing due to Covid-19, the challenge is even bigger since the effects of the quarantine have caused stress, allergies, and dry skin on the face. The company is made up of professionals, each one specialized in their own discipline, who with their knowledge and passion, will ensure that the company emerges, consolidates and maintains itself over time, making responsible use of resources and focusing on the client. In this sense, for the development of our project, and especially for the commercialization and distribution of the product, an investment of.70,502 soles is required, of of 30% will be financed by an financial entity and the rest will be from company partners´ capital. / Trabajo de investigación

The diploma thesis is focused on the creation of a marketing plan for dog’s shampoos launch. The shampoos will be launched on the Slovak market by Palma a.s. company. The design of marketing activities is based on both theoretical background and relevant analysis. The marketing plan is focused primarily on the printed form of advertising and also on advertising on the internet.

This thesis is focused on aroma compounds which are presented in a wide variety of products including perfume, cologne, cosmetics, toiletries, laundry products and detergens. The widespread use and exposure to aroma compounds of aforementioned products could cause a range of the adverse reactions such as contact dermatitis, asthma, eczema and breathing problems. There are a lot of aroma compounds triggering negative allergic reactions but EU regulations limit 26 the most important fragrance allergens. The presence of these substances has to be declared on the product label if a limit of 0,01 % for rinse off and 0,001 % for leave-on products is exceeded. Of these 26 substances, a methodology was elaborated for determination of 12 allergens in a experimental part of this thesis. A method by solid-phase microextraction (SPME) and gas chromatography-flame ionization detection (GC-FID) was applied for fragrance allergens identification, extraction and measurement. The optimal extraction conditions of SPME-GC method were investigated including equilibrium time, extraction time and extraction temperature to increase extraction efficiency. Another important point is the method by SPME-GC-FID was validated and following performance parameters were determined: repeatability, linearity, limit of detection (LOD) limit of quantitation (LOQ). SPME-GC-FID was tested and applied to real samples.

The project design processes multifunctional center for leisure and sports. The center is situated in Šternberk and its capacity is about 150 people. There is inter alia the wellness center, with saunas and whirlpool, a fitness, gym and a beauty salon. Architecturally, the object is conceived as paralell blending of three units of a different colors and sizes. As well as all construction compositions are more developed basis for air conditioning systems. Documentation is processed at the level of documentation for building permit.