Orientador: Ana Lucia Gonçalves da Silva / Tese (doutorado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Instituto de Economia / Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-18T02:29:04Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Pirola_ErikaNogueira_D.pdf: 3343637 bytes, checksum: e6e8ac5ce6a7c7610f4b682f5326a996 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2011 / Resumo: O presente trabalho procura avançar no entendimento da cadeia produtiva de higiene pessoal, perfumaria e cosméticos (HPPC), levando em conta seu padrão de concorrência e formas de segmentação do mercado. O grau de importância dos fatores competitivos entre os diferentes tamanhos de empresas é bastante diverso. Em geral, os fundamentos da competitividade estão apoiados em um conjunto de atributos impulsionados principalmente por modismos, que requerem investimentos em inovação. Ao mesmo tempo crescem vantagens cumulativas apoiadas em economias de escala e escopo, que remetem à dimensão global da concorrência. Apesar do atomismo típico do setor, quem domina são grandes corporações multinacionais. A facilidade de entrada de pequenas empresas é contrastada com a dificuldade de permanência e ascensão decorrente da ausência de escala. As vantagens inerentes ao crescente tamanho das empresas líderes são geradoras de cumulatividades inacessíveis às pequenas. Assim, transitar de pequenos para grandes tamanhos é quase impossível. Esse movimento torna-se mais progressivo com as constantes fusões e aquisições que têm ocorrido nas últimas décadas. As pequenas empresas, para se manterem no mercado, têm se valido das terceirizações onde se especializam nas operações ligadas à produção, enquanto a contratante direciona o foco no core business. A formação de pólos de competitividade é um fator positivo para as pequenas e médias empresas permanecerem no setor. Nesse sentido, fez-se um esforço de incorporar ao trabalho a dimensão territorial, de modo a contribuir para o estudo da relação entre indústria e território. Por fim, procurou-se incorporar um olhar sobre as tendências recentes e os desafios para o Brasil. Os produtos verdes ou orgânicos, em alta nos quatro cantos do mundo, podem vir a constituir um motor do crescimento da indústria brasileira de HPPC, dada a rica biodiversidade que o país possui. Mas se trata de uma cadeia complexa onde existe uma ponta atomizada, basicamente os nativos da floresta, que cuidam do extrativismo, cultivo e coleta e que, em geral, estão subordinados ao poder de comando de uma grande empresa; e as grandes corporações que possuem escala para trabalhar com as complexidades que esse setor impõe, que impedem que pequenas empresas desempenhem o papel de articular essa cadeia. Cabe ao Estado a tarefa de promover uma política que leve em conta essa questão e que permita que empresas nacionais consigam se internacionalizar e expandir suas fronteiras geográficas / Abstract: The present work aims to improve the comprehension of the productive chain of personal hygiene, perfumery and cosmetics (HPPC), by analysing its competitiveness pattern and means of market segmentation. The degree of relevance of competitive factors amongst companies with different dimension is quite diverse. In general, competitiveness standards are based on a set of attributes which are mainly driven by trends and require investments in innovation. Simultaneously, cumulative benefits experience a growth supported by scale and scope economies, which refer to the global dimension of competition. Despite the typical atomism of the sector, big multinational corporations rule. The ease of entry of small companies contrasts with the difficulty in permanency and ascent deriving from the absence of scale. Benefits inherent to the increasing dimension of leading companies generate cumulativities which are inaccessible to small companies. Therefore, the transition from small to big sizes is almost impossible. This movement becomes more progressive with continuing mergers and acquisitions taking place over the past decades. In order to stay on the market, small companies have to resort to outsourcing specializing in production operations, while the contracting party focuses on core business. The creation of poles of competitiveness is a positive factor which allows small and medium-sized companies to remain within the sector. Accordingly, an effort has been made to incorporate territorial dimension into work, in order to contribute to the study of the interrelationship between industry and territory. Finally, we tried to include a perspective on the recent trends and challenges Brazil is facing. Green or organic products, increasing all over the world, may become a key driver for the growth of the Brazilian industry of HPPC, considering the enormous potential in biodiversity this country has. But this is a complex chain with an atomized tip, basically the forest natives, who take care of the extractivism, growing and harvesting and who are, in general, under the control of a big company; we also have to consider the big corporations which have enough scale to work with the complexities imposed by this sector and which prevent small companies from developing the role of coordinators of this chain. The State is responsible for the task of promoting a policy which takes this issue into account and which allows national companies to internationalize and expand their geographic borders / Doutorado / Desenvolvimento Economico, Espaço e Meio Ambiente / Doutor em Desenvolvimento Economico

In recent years, femvertising has become a new issue of interest for companies, specifically in areas targeting women. Indeed, some companies in the cosmetics industry, such as Dove - a pioneer in the field - have been addressing the representation of women in advertising by tackling issues of equality, inclusiveness, and self-acceptance. Defined as female empowerment advertising, femvertising remains an issue that has been little studied in the literature. While some studies conclude that such a strategy is effective on the corporate side, we want to study this issue from a consumer perspective. Since this new marketing strategy is part of the 4th wave of feminism – which stands out from the other waves with a strong online orientation – the prism of social media constitutes the field of study of this thesis, and more specifically Instagram, a social network where the image concern rules. Generation Y, considered as digital natives, being particularly present on these social networks and relatively aware of global issues, we thus focus our research on these people aged between 21 and 41 years old. In order to shed light on this recent topic, we aim to investigate the attitude of Generation Y toward femvertising in the cosmetics industry. Through this thesis, we try to develop a deeper understanding of if and how the feminist stance of cosmetic brands in their online marketing affects the behaviour of consumers from Generation Y. Besides, this study intends to investigate if, among millennials, there are differences in perception and attitudes towards femvertising according to the cause commitment and activist knowledge of consumers. For this purpose, we developed three research questions that allowed us to study this attitude from exposure to this specific type of advertising, to catch millennials'perception and the way this type of ad affects them, up to their purchase intention. To gather the necessary insights for this research project, a qualitative study through semi-structured interviews among twelve millennials sensitive to cosmetics and/or the feminist movement were conducted, supported by five selected cases of femvertising displayed by cosmetics brands on social media. The findings of this study revealed three key insights regarding Generation Y attitudes towards femvertising. First, these new representations are perceived rather positively among millennials since it breaks codes, stereotypes, and offers more inclusive representations as requested by these consumers. Secondly, Generation Y consumers being rather committed to social causes, they raise their skepticism, are rather cautious about the honesty of this approach, or even react unfavorably to femvertising. Despite this, this marketing strategy using feminist speech and values that are dear to millennials make them hold a positive purchase intention towards cosmetic brands using these claims. This has obvious practical implications for brands to consider. More generally, this bridged some of the identified gaps in the literature and raise important questions for societal and ethical considerations.

Background: Today as awareness about sustainable development increases, more attention is drawn towards sustainability strategies of the companies. However, prior research has not investigated the formulation and implementation of sustainability strategies within companies of different size and scope as existing studies are skewed towards the perspectives of large firms even though SMEs mark up more than 90% of the market.  Purpose: The main objective of this study is to gain an in-depth understanding of sustainability strategy formulation and implementation within the cosmetics industry from the perspectives of both MNCs and SMEs.   Method: To fulfil the purpose of the study, exploratory qualitative research is performed, using a multiple-case study design where several cases are selected to develop a more in-depth understanding of the research topic.  Conclusion: Based on the collected data, it can be concluded that sustainability strategies are initially driven by an environmentally conscious founder who has translated personal beliefs into the organizational culture. Furthermore, the analysis results show the relationship between the driver of sustainability with formulation and implementation mechanisms applied within the company.

Thesis (M. Tech.) -- Central University of Technology, Free State, [2009] / Somatologists in South Africa no longer only practice beauty technology. They receive highly skilled training in the well being of the whole body, thus a more holistic approach is emphasized. Currently, stakeholders in the field of somatology are facing a number of challenges, which could impact greatly on the profession. The question of recurriculation, in order to align the training provided for somatologists with the new Higher Education Qualification Framework (HEQF) and the possible registration of the profession with a statutory body, are some of the challenges posed to the profession. In order to position the somatology profession favourably in South Africa, it was thus necessary to explore the current status of the profession through input from all stakeholders in the industry and to develop a possible framework. The objective of the study was firstly to obtain quantitative information from stakeholders in the field of somatology on matters related to their professional training, employment, recurriculation, referral trends to and from medical professionals and registration of the profession. Secondly, to obtain quantitative information from other medical professionals regarding referrals to somatologists and thirdly, to develop a possible framework that could facilitate the positioning of somatology more favourably as a profession in South Africa. Data were collected by means of two separate questionnaires, one sent to stakeholders in the somatology field and the other to medical professionals specializing in the fields of dermatology, plastic surgery and oncology. The results indicated that the stakeholders in the somatology field were satisfied with the current training provided by registered IX private providers and Universities of Technology. Job satisfaction was experienced by most, however, the hours and days worked could be improved. The need for short courses, as a means of staying in touch with the latest developments in the somatology industry, was identified. Currently, there exists a referral trend between somatologists and medical professionals, however, the frequency of referrals could be improved. The need for the somatology profession to register with a statutory body was identified by both somatologists and medical professionals. Two possible frameworks, with regards to the training provided for somatologists and the registration of the profession, were compiled based on the feedback obtained in the study, in order to position the profession somatology more favourably in South Africa.

Made available in DSpace on 2016-06-02T19:51:51Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 3779.pdf: 1426121 bytes, checksum: a6f8e39bedf841fb3a719a8979689441 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2011-07-06 / Nowadays, even small-sized enterprises are investing in integrated management systems, called ERP (Enterprise Resource Planning), as a way to solve planning problems and to better control their cash flow. However, these enterprises end up neglecting one of the main inputs to improve the PPC (Production Planning and Control): the demand forecast. Thus, planning and cash flow problems persist, and no matter how flexible the enterprise is, it cannot follow the demand due to limited resources. Another factor is related to the responsibility of elaborating the sales forecast, which a single area or department is in charge of and reflects all the development of the enterprise, in case values are not reliable. This work fits context, once its main goal is to present a process which combines various methods or forecasting techniques, integrating areas or departments as a whole, and sharing the responsibilities to obtain a consensual preview accepted by all. This process aims to align the revenue goals defined by the board and make possible actions with advance, in case it is seen that the objectives cannot be achieved in revenue terms, promoting coordinated actions between the commercial and productive areas, searching for a common outcome in financial terms. The proposed method also aims to improve the way of communication among areas, integrating the information and trying to suggest an evaluation and analysis process of the performed forecasts, apart from proposing an incentive to the commercial area to search for accuracy in the forecasts. The final outcome of demand forecast process will be a master production scheduling. A theoretical-empirical analysis is presented, and the research, based on literature, identifies, from the production system evolution, the production planning and control the demand forecast process, its forecasting techniques and the evaluation of errors. Next, demand forecasting processes is presented, as a way to improve the demand forecast identified in the case study and demonstrate the expected outcomes after the implementation of this demand forecast model. / Atualmente, mesmo as empresas de pequeno porte estão investindo em sistemas de gestão integrados, chamados de ERP (Enterprise Resources Planning), como uma forma de resolver problemas de planejamento e controlar melhor seu fluxo de caixa. Porém, essas empresas acabam negligenciando um dos principais insumos para melhorar o PCP (Planejamento e Controle da Produção): a previsão de demanda. Assim, persistem os problemas de planejamento e de fluxo de caixa, e por mais flexível que seja a empresa, ela não consegue acompanhar a demanda em função de recursos limitados. Outro fator está relacionado à responsabilidade de elaborar a previsão de vendas, que fica a cargo de uma única área ou departamento e reflete todo o desempenho da empresa, caso os valores não sejam confiáveis. Este trabalho se insere neste contexto, uma vez que tem como objetivo principal apresentar um processo que combine vários métodos ou técnicas de previsão, integrando as áreas ou departamentos como um todo, e dividindo as responsabilidades pela obtenção de uma previsão de consenso aceita por todos. Este processo busca alinhar as metas de faturamento definidas pela diretoria e tornar possíveis ações com antecedência, caso se perceba que os objetos podem não ser alcançados em termos de faturamento, promovendo ações coordenadas entre a área comercial e produtiva, em busca de um resultado comum em termos financeiros. O método proposto também almeja melhorar a forma de comunicação entre as áreas, integrando as informações e procura sugerir um processo de avaliação e análise das previsões realizadas, além de propor um incentivo à área comercial para que busque uma acuracidade das previsões. O resultado final do processo de previsão de demanda será um programa mestre de produção. Uma análise teórico empírica é apresentada, e a pesquisa, com base na literatura, identifica, desde a evolução dos sistemas de produção, o planejamento e controle da produção, o processo de previsão de demanda, suas técnicas de previsão e a avaliação dos erros. Em seguida, apresenta-se uma proposta de método de previsão de demanda, como forma de melhorar a previsão de demanda identificada no estudo de caso e demonstra os resultados esperados após a implantação deste modelo de previsão de demanda.

The primary objective of this study is to determine the viability of opening a speciality top end, Ethnic cosmetic and toiletry retailer in the Greenacres Mall of Port Elizabeth, in order to meet the cosmetic and toiletry needs of Ethnic consumers, having moved from rural places of work and dwelling, to urban areas of work and dwelling. In order to achieve the above mentioned primary objective, the following secondary objectives will be pursued: • To investigate the current and forecast Ethnic cosmetic and toiletry trends in the United States of America, in order to serve as a benchmark in the development of a top end, speciality Ethnic cosmetic and toiletry retail store model, for the Greenacres Shopping Mall in Port Elizabeth, South Africa; • to identify whether a top end, speciality Ethnic cosmetic and toiletry store model for the Greenacres Shopping Mall in Port Elizabeth, South Africa, would be a viable business venture; • to investigate current and forecast Ethnic cosmetic and toiletry trends in South Africa, in order to reveal the shortfalls of retailers targeting this market segment; and • to identify the best business model for an organisation or individual wanting to grow their business through targeting the Ethnic cosmetic and toiletry consumer

Submitted by Pablo Possamai (pablopossamai@hotmail.com) on 2018-10-18T10:10:22Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Pablo Possamai_ Dissertacao MPA.pdf: 1765131 bytes, checksum: 4e094916d32dc4277f82617c65e9b309 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Mayara Costa de Sousa (mayara.sousa@fgv.br) on 2018-10-25T15:10:05Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 Pablo Possamai_ Dissertacao MPA.pdf: 1765131 bytes, checksum: 4e094916d32dc4277f82617c65e9b309 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Suzane Guimarães (suzane.guimaraes@fgv.br) on 2018-10-26T12:47:47Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 Pablo Possamai_ Dissertacao MPA.pdf: 1765131 bytes, checksum: 4e094916d32dc4277f82617c65e9b309 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2018-10-26T12:47:47Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Pablo Possamai_ Dissertacao MPA.pdf: 1765131 bytes, checksum: 4e094916d32dc4277f82617c65e9b309 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2018-09-20 / A busca por eficiência e constante redução de custos tem levado muitas organizações a reestruturarem seus processos e suas atividades de compras com o objetivo de gerar maior competitividade para o negócio a partir de processos mais robustos. As compras estratégicas de bens e serviços indiretos têm ganhado espaço nas organizações, o que pode ser explicado, em parte, pela competitividade global, pressão por resultados financeiros e mudanças estruturais na indústria. O objetivo deste trabalho foi demonstrar, mediante estudos de caso centrados em serviços de marketing, jurídico e de logística internacional, como as compras indiretas podem ser gerenciadas de forma mais estratégica, para tanto, analisando como esses processos são conduzidos em uma indústria de cosméticos e como se comparam com a literatura. Este estudo abordou as diferentes situações de gastos indiretos, nesse sentido, identificando os gaps e as oportunidades existentes que possam ser explorados. Neste estudo foi abordado como o gerenciamento por categorias de compras, de acordo com a Matriz de Kraljic (1983), comparase com a classificação interna da empresa segundo as áreas clientes e compras. Demonstra-se que as compras de bens e serviços, quando realizadas de forma estratégica, com o uso de tecnologia e uma estrutura independente, geram ganhos competitivos por meio da redução de custos e permite que as áreas funcionais concentrem seus esforços na atividade principal da área. Os campos analisados foram: gerenciamento por categoria, processo de compras e como compras se relaciona com as outras áreas. Na conclusão, algumas recomendações são propostas para aumentar a efetividade da gestão de compras indiretas de serviços. / The search for efficiency and constant cost reduction has led many organizations to restructure their processes and their sourcing activities in order to generate greater competitiveness for the business thru more robust processes. Strategic sourcing of indirect goods and services have gained space in organizations, which can be partly explained by global competitiveness, pressure for financial results and structural changes in industry. The objective of this work was to demonstrate, through case studies focused on marketing, legal and international logistics services, how indirect sourcing can be managed in a more strategic way, by analyzing how these processes are conducted in a cosmetics industry and how they are compared to the literature. This study addressed the different situations of indirect costs, in this sense, identifying the existing gaps and opportunities that can be explored. In this study it was approached how the category management, according to the Kraljic Matrix (1983), compares with the internal classification of the company according to the internal customers and sourcing areas. It is demonstrated that the sourcing of goods and services, when carried out in a strategic way, using technology and an independent structure, generates competitive gains through cost reduction and allows the functional areas to concentrate their efforts on thei main activities. The fields analyzed were: category management, sourcing processes and how the sourcing interacts with the other areas in the organization. In the conclusion, some recommendations are proposed to increase the effectiveness of indirect sourcing management.

Indiana University-Purdue University Indianapolis (IUPUI) / This dissertation employs a historical approach to the philanthropic activities of Madam C.J. Walker, an African American female entrepreneur who built an international beauty culture company that employed thousands of people, primarily black women, and generated hundreds of thousands of dollars in annual revenues during the Jim Crow era. The field of philanthropic studies has recognized Walker as a philanthropist, but has not effectively accounted for how her story challenges conventional understandings of philanthropy. I use historical methods and archival research to determine what motivated and constituted Walker’s philanthropic giving to arrive at three main conclusions. First, Walker’s philanthropy can be best understood as emerging out of a moral imagination forged by her experiences as a poor, black, female migrant in St. Louis, Missouri during the late 1800s dependent upon a robust philanthropic infrastructure of black civil society institutions and individuals who cared for and mentored her through the most difficult period of her life. Second, she created and operated her company to pursue commercial and philanthropic goals concurrently by improving black women’s personal hygiene and appearance; increasing their access to vocational education, beauty culture careers, and financial independence; and promoting social bonding and activism through associationalism, and, later, fraternal ritual. Third, during her lifetime and through her estate, Walker deployed a diverse array of philanthropic resources to fund African American social service and educational needs in networks with other black women. Her giving positions her philanthropy as simultaneously distinct from the dominant paradigm of wealthy whites and as shared with that of other African Americans. Her approach thus ran counter to the racialized and gendered models of giving by the rich white male and female philanthropists of her era, while being representative of black women’s norms of giving.