At the beginning of the twenty-first century British costume museums were failing to attract audiences; consequently, all but the Gallery of Costume, Manchester and the Fashion Museum, Bath were closed to the public. This thesis has sought to examine the traditional display methodologies of historic costume museums, using the Gallery of Costume as its primary case study of practice. This investigation problematises the theoretical assumptions upon which the gallery’s display methodologies are founded and compares its approaches to those taken in contemporary displays of historic dress. The findings of this investigation have been used to propose new approaches to the display of historic dress that aim to engage contemporary audiences. Using the research methods of participant observation, interviews and archival research the first chapter of this thesis outlines the development of the Gallery of Costume’s display methodologies, highlighting the agency of individual curators. The next two chapters explore the ways in which curators of dress reconstruct the bodies and personalities that give form to worn dress in the museum. The thesis moves on to examine both the methods by which the Gallery of Costume’s constructed history in its displays of history and the theoretical assumptions underlying its historiography. This chapter is followed by an exploration of the performance of fashion within the museum, attending to the way in which exhibitions can express dress as ‘living’ concept within accepted conservation guidelines. Finally, this thesis outlines a framework upon which reflexive exhibitions of historic dress can be built.

Terror in the African Anglophone novels of Chinua Achebe, Doris Lessing, J.M. Coetzee and Laila Lalami originated as a consequence of a breakdown in the family structure. Traditionally, conventional patriarchy, in addition to securing the psychological and material needs of the family, has served as one of the building blocks of tribes and nations. Since the father figure within narrative is allegorized as a metonym of the state, the absence of patriarchal authority represents the disintegration of the link between individuals and national institutions. Consequently, characters may also turn to committing acts of terror as a rejection of the dominant national ideology. This dissertation aims to demonstrate how the breakdown of the family and the conventional gendering of roles may give rise to terrorist violence in the African setting. To recontextualize the persistence of the Conradian definition of terror as an Anglo-European phenomenon brought to Africa, I contrast the ways in which the breakdown of the family affects both indigenous and Anglo-European households in Africa across generations. I suggest that, under the reinvention of older gender norms, the unfulfilling Anglo-European patriarchy exposes Anglo-European women to indigenous violence. Moreover, I theorize that the absence of patriarchal authority leads indigenous families to seek substitutions in the form of alternative family institutions, such as religious and political organizations, that conflict with the national ideology. Furthermore, against the backdrop of globalized capitalism, commodity fetishism emerges as a substitute to compensate for the absent father figure. Therefore, this project demonstrates the indisputable relationship between the breakdown of the family structure and individual acts of terror that aim at the fulfillment of capitalist fetish or individual desire, and at the expense of national security. Finally, the rhetorical dimension of terror against family and women in Africa will be proven to be the allegorized norm of globalized terror in the twenty-first century.

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This thesis investigates representations of happiness in recent German literature and film. The interpretations focus on how happiness is negotiated in the context of home and travel, of Heimat and Fremde, in order to understand happiness, not only insofar as it contributes to “the good life”, but also as an element that shapes public discourses. My readings of works of fiction take into account how notions of happiness have shifted since the turn of the millennium. One reason for this shift is the heightened interest in happiness research, one of the most thriving interdisciplinary research fields of the last decade, which includes disciplines such as psychology, neurosciences, political science, sociology and economics. The following texts and films are examined in this context: Sommerhaus, später (1998) and Nichts als Gespenster (2003) by Judith Hermann, Transfer Lounge (2003) by Gregor Hens, Die Habenichtse (2006) by Katharina Hacker, Head-On (German: Gegen die Wand, 2004) by Fatih Akın, When We Leave (German: Die Fremde, 2010) by Feo Aladağ, Der Blick hinab (2007) by Shirin Kumm, Unveiled (German: Fremde Haut, 2005) by Angelina Maccarone, Cherry Blossoms (German: Kirschblüten – Hanami, 2008) by Doris Dörrie and Zehn (2010) by Franka Potente. My theoretical framework is informed in part by Sara Ahmed’s 2010 influential study, The Promise of Happiness, which takes a critical view toward recent happiness research from a cultural studies perspective. My analysis is directed at the ways in which concepts of happiness are narrated, negotiated and challenged within the context of transnational stories, which are inscribed with the effects of “supermodernity” (Augé) in a globalized world. I show how these works subvert themes and motifs that are associated with happiness, such as home and Heimat and travel or migration into the West. Finally, my readings show how these works mediate and reflect public dialogues and traditional notions about what makes us happy or unhappy, and I demonstrate how new configurations of happiness arise from these narratives. / Thesis (Ph.D, German) -- Queen's University, 2013-05-30 17:42:26.632

by Li Tsui-yan. / Thesis (M.Phil.)--Chinese University of Hong Kong, 1999. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves 100-105). / Abstracts in English and Chinese. / Chapter Chapter One --- The Dilemma of Liberation and Confinement: Female Subjectivity in Comparative Perspectives --- p.1 / Chapter Chapter Two --- Deconstructing Patriarchal Discourse: Female Subjectivity in Doris Lessing's The Golden Notebook and The Summer Before the Dark --- p.18 / Chapter Chapter Three --- "Resistance to the Stereotypes of Femininity: Female Subjectivity in Zhang Jie's “Love Must Not be Forgotten"" and “The Ark´ح" --- p.50 / Chapter Chapter Four --- The Multiple and the Dynamic: Doris Lessing and Zhang Jie's Strategies in the Construction of Female Subjectivity --- p.73 / Notes --- p.86 / Works Cited --- p.99

<p>The predominant focus on the male protagonist in the <em>Bildungsroman</em> genre has provoked feminist critics to offer a re-definition of the genre, claiming that the female protagonist's development differs in significant ways from the traditionally expected course of development (i.e. male). A feminist comparison between <em>A Portrait of the Artist As a Young Man</em> and <em>Martha Quest</em> found, unexpectedly, that the female protagonist follows the traditional <em>Bildungsroman</em> trajectory in several respects, whereas the male protagonist deviates from it. <em>A Portrait</em> emphasizes the themes of childhood, formal education and religion, while in <em>Martha Quest</em> the themes of family relations, informal education, sexuality and marriage are treated at length. <em>Martha Quest </em>as an example of a female <em>Bildungsroman</em> deals specifically with the issues of role models, gender roles and gender inequality, which neither the traditional <em>Bildungsroman</em> nor <em>A Portrait </em>does.</p><p> </p>

La vitesse de convergence intersismique de l'Himalaya - paramètre essentiel dans l'étude du cycle sismique - est débattue depuis plusieurs années. Pour contraindre cette dernière, nous avons combiné avec succès des données géodésiques de campagne, de stations cGPS et de stations DORIS, pour déterminer le mouvement de la plaque indienne ainsi que la déformation crustale actuelle au travers de l'Himalaya du Népal. Il ressort que le mouvement de l'Inde par rapport à l'Eurasie, que nous estimons à 35mm.an-1, est significativement moins rapide que celui déduit des modèles géologiques globaux de tectonique des plaques. Le modèle de déformation crustale au travers de l'Himalya oriental et central indique que le MHT est bloqué sur une distance d'environ 115 km, de la surface jusqu`à une profondeur d'environ 20 km sous le front de la haute chaîne. Le raccourcissement horizontal, induit par un fluage ductile le long de la partie la plus profonde du MHT, correspond<br /> à 19 ± 2.5 mm.an-1 dans le Centre-Est Népal. Au travers du Népal occidental, le modèle de la déformation et le taux de raccourcissement évalué sont de 13.4 ± 5 mm.an-1, taux moins contraint, par manque de stations cGPS.<br /><br /> L'analyse des séries temporelles GPS a montré, outre le terme séculaire, des variations saisonnières importantes, notamment sur la composante horizontale perpendiculaire à la chaîne himalayenne. Nous avons pu mettre en évidence que ces variations saisonnières ne<br /> provenaient pas d'un artéfact de traitement, mais de la réponse flexurale de la croûte continentale à un chargement des aquifères situés dans la plaine du Gange. La réponse élastique de la lithosphère à cette charge saisonnière induit des variations de <br /> contrainte de Coulomb au niveau des l'essaim microsismique mi-crustal himalayen. Ces variations permettent d'expliquer au premier ordre les variations de taux de sismicité saisonnières<br /> mises en évidence à l'échelle du catalogue de sismicité népalais.<br /> <br /> L'étude microstructurale de quartzites nous a, par ailleurs, permis d'estimer les contraintes différentielles présentes autour de la transition fragile-ductile. A partir de la combinaison de données thermométriques, structurales, géodésiques et paléopiézométriques,<br /> une loi rhéologique expérimentale des quartzites du Moyen-Pays himalayen a pu être définie. La détermination de cette loi de fluage apporte une contrainte supplémentaire à la connaissance de la structure rhéologique de la lithosphère continentale himalayenne,<br /> un paramètre essentiel dans les modèles mécaniques du cycle sismique.

The predominant focus on the male protagonist in the Bildungsroman genre has provoked feminist critics to offer a re-definition of the genre, claiming that the female protagonist's development differs in significant ways from the traditionally expected course of development (i.e. male). A feminist comparison between A Portrait of the Artist As a Young Man and Martha Quest found, unexpectedly, that the female protagonist follows the traditional Bildungsroman trajectory in several respects, whereas the male protagonist deviates from it. A Portrait emphasizes the themes of childhood, formal education and religion, while in Martha Quest the themes of family relations, informal education, sexuality and marriage are treated at length. Martha Quest as an example of a female Bildungsroman deals specifically with the issues of role models, gender roles and gender inequality, which neither the traditional Bildungsroman nor A Portrait does.

La presente tesis es una lectura del poemario Diario de la mujer es ponja de Doris Moromisato, en donde busco analizar la constitución identitaria del sujeto poético, él cual se caracteriza por ser un sujeto no estable; en el sentido que no puede definirse dentro de un discurso ni dentro de una realidad social y cultural, es decir, es un sujeto marginal y transgresor desde diversos aspectos, como su opción sexual, su visión de la realidad, su constante lucha subversiva contra la sociedad paternalista, etc. Esto provoca que no tenga una identidad determinada, lo que hará que busque incesantemente un modelo para poder construir su identidad

Ce mémoire entend analyser et mettre en perspective la présence, début des années 2020, des films de Doris Wishman dans les catalogues des plateformes de streaming cinéphile Criterion Channel et MUBI. La réalisatrice officiait dans le genre tabou et discrédité de la sexploitation. Elle ne prétendait pas à la grille auteuriste revendiquée par les deux sites de vidéo-à-la-demande. Le phénomène à l’étude est donc celui d’un déplacement de son cinéma vers une sphère de réception nouvelle. Pour en comprendre les enjeux, je propose une double recherche-terrain. Elle consistera d’abord en l’étude de la façon dont Criterion Channel et MUBI s’approprient et valorisent ces films auprès de leurs abonnés. Elle sera ensuite discutée par la conduction d’entretiens, menés avec des professionnels du streaming et des spécialistes de Doris Wishman. Plus largement, l’analyse de phénomène cherche à comprendre comment l’expérience d’un spectateur peut différer selon le contexte de visionnement, et comment un film peut être détourné, ou non, de son intention originelle. / This thesis aims to analyze and put into perspective the presence, in the early 2020s, of Doris Wishman’s films in the catalogs of cinephile video-on-demand platforms MUBI and Criterion Channel. The director was working in the taboo and discredited genre of sexploitation. She had no pretensions to the auteur-oriented positioning of the two VOD sites. The phenomenon under study is therefore a shift of her cinema towards a new sphere of reception. To understand what’s at stake, this thesis proposes a double field research. First, it will study how Criterion Channel and MUBI appropriate and promote these films among their subscribers. It will then discuss the findings through interviews with streaming professionals and Doris Wishman specialists. More broadly, this analysis seeks to understand how a viewers’s experience can differ depending on the viewing context, and how a film can be diverted from its original intention.