The production of polyethylene terephthalate (PET) textiles, commonly known as polyester, is an energy and water-intensive process, particularly during the dyeing and finishing stages, leading to significant carbon emissions and wastewater filled with toxic chemicals. Conventional dyeing processes consume large volumes of water and energy, making them environmentally harmful. Innovative methods like hydraulic spray atomizer offer a more sustainable alternative by reducing water and chemical usage, thus minimizing waste and environmental impact. This study explores the hydraulic spray dyeing process parameters, including pre-treatment, dyeing, pre-drying, and fixation steps for three different polyester fabrics. The objective is to achieve resource-efficient dyeing with comparable results to traditional methods, and to compare effectiveness of a combined pre-treatment and dyeing approach with a two-step spray application of pre-treatment and dyeing. Pre-treatment of the polyester fabrics with chemical hydrophilizing agents by spray application showed to improve the hydrophilic character and wetting capacity of three polyester fabrics—P75, P600, and Kibo based on reduced water contact angle measurements and increased vertical wicking rates. A pre-treatment also showed to enhance the K/S values of the three different polyester fabrics. The addition of a pre-drying step showed some indication of reducing disperse dye migration, and enhanced color strength of the Kibo fabrics. Spray dyed samples maintained dyeing quality comparable to padded samples. One-step spray processes demonstrated comparable or improved color properties and durability to fastness to washing and abrasion in comparison to two-step processes. The results demonstrate that the hydraulic spray atomizing system is viable for both dyeing and pre-treatment of polyester fabrics. Furthermore, this lays the groundwork for innovation in wet textile processes of polyester fabrics using this resource-efficient alternative, aiming towards sustainable textile production and dyeing.

Les effluents industriels issus des activités de textile présentent souvent une importante charge polluante colorante difficilement biodégradable. Des travaux antérieurs ont montré le potentiel des argiles naturelles non traitées à dépolluer ces effluents teinturiers alors qu’ils sont généralement composés de colorants anioniques difficilement adsorbables sur ces supports. Or, les effluents contiennent également d’autres composés chimiques utilisés dans les différentes étapes du procédé de teinture, et qui sont de natures variées (sels, acides, bases, détergents, dérivés enzymatiques, etc…). Il semblerait que ces produits auxiliaires jouent un rôle dans l'adsorption de colorants anioniques sur l'argile non traitée. Cependant, aucune étude connue à ce jour, n'a porté sur l'effet des additifs de teinture dans le processus de décoloration par des absorbants en général, et par les argiles en particulier. Cette étude est la première à s’intéresser au système colorant-additif-argile. Des tests d’adsorption / désorption en batch ont été menés en considérant différents systèmes colorant-additif-argile. Les résultats des tests montrent que les additifs de type enzymatique favorisent l’adsorption de colorant anionique sur l’argile en neutralisant les charges négatives et en renforçant les liaisons argile-colorant. D’autres additifs ont un effet contraire mais n’annulent pas l’effet positif des additifs enzymatiques lorsqu’ils sont mélangés dans l’effluent. Des hypothèses d’interactions mises en jeu lors de l’adsorption de colorant ont été faites en s’aidant des résultats de la spectrométrie infra-rouge et de masse, de la zétamétrie et de la modélisation des isothermes d’adsorption. / Industrial effluents from textile activities often have a high pollution load readily biodegradable. Previous work has shown the potential of natural untreated clays to clean up these dyers effluents although anionic dyes are not easily absorbable on these media. The effluents also contain other chemical compounds used in the different stages of the dyeing process, and which are of various natures (salts, acids, bases, detergents, enzyme derivatives, etc ...). It appears that these auxiliary products play a role in the adsorption of anionic dyes on untreated clay. However, no currently known study has examined the effect of the additives from the dyeing process on the adsorption of dye onto clay. This is the first study to focus on the dye-clay-additive system. Adsorption / desorption batch tests were conducted considering different dye additive-clay systems. The tests’ results show that the enzyme like additives enhance the adsorption of anionic dye on the clay by neutralizing the negative charges and reinforcing clay-dye links. Other additives have the opposite effect, but do not offset the positive effect of enzyme like additives when mixed in the effluent. Assumptions of interactions involved in dye adsorption were made with the help of the results of infrared and mass spectrometry, zetametry and the modeling of adsorption isotherms.

<p>Rural people around the 4 km2 Orathupalayam Dam in southern India live in one of India’s most polluted areas. The people were once restricted mainly by scarcity of water but today they cannot drink their well water or cultivate their soil. The dam, created to store floodwater from the Noyyal River, also stores effluent water from the more than 700 dyeing and bleaching industries situated in the town of Tiruppur, 20 km upstream. Although most industries have treatment plants they do not treat total dissolved solids (TDS) and thus NaCl becomes one of the major components of the effluent. 75 to 100 million litres of effluents are released every day.</p><p>Through water sampling in open and bore wells, and with the help of GPS, ArcView and Surfer it could be concluded that high TDS levels and concentrations of Cl-, Ca2+, Mg2+ and Na+ were associated with the dam. A definite spatial pattern of the spreading of polluted water could be determined. Water from the dam was fed to the ground water all around the dam and also affected the groundwater more than 4 km to the southeast. Soil samples and interviews with farmers made it clear that land irrigated with dam water or affected well water soon became uncultivable. The water destroyed the soil structure and seeds did not germinate after irrigation with polluted water.</p><p>Through interviews it could be concluded that the local people around the dam paid a large part of the externalities of the polluting activities of the textile industries in terms of negative health effects and lost agricultural land, water resources, fishing and working opportunities. These problems have mostly been caused by the high salt concentration in the effluents but it is unclear to what extent other substances have caused or might cause harmful effects to the environment, people and animals.</p>

This research explored a Digital Laser Dye (DLD) patterning process as an alternative coloration method within a textile design practice context. An interdisciplinary framework employed to carry out the study involved Optical Engineering, Dyeing Chemistry, Textile Design and Industry Interaction through collaboration with the Society of Dyers and Colourists. In doing so, combined creative, scientific and technical methods facilitated design innovation. Standardized polyester (PET) knitted jersey and plain, woven fabrics were modified with CO2 laser technology in order to engineer dye onto the fabric with high-resolution graphics. The work considered the aesthetic possibilities, production opportunities and environmental potential of the process compared to traditional and existing surface design techniques. Laser-dyed patterns were generated by a digital dyeing technique involving CAD, laser technology and dye practices to enable textile coloration and patterning. An understanding of energy density was used to define the tone of a dye in terms of colour depth in relation to the textile. In doing so, a system for calibrating levels of colour against laser energy in order to build a tonal image was found. Central to the investigation was the consideration of the laser beam spot as a dots-per-inch tool, drawing on the principles used in digital printing processes. It was therefore possible to utilise the beam as an image making instrument for modifying textile fibres with controlled laser energy. Qualitative approaches employed enabled data gathering to incorporate verbal and written dialogue based on first-hand interactions. Documented notes encompassed individual thought and expression which facilitated the ability to reflect when engaged in practical activity. As such, tacit knowledge and designerly intuition, which is implicit by nature, informed extended design experiments and the thematic documentation of samples towards a textile design collection. Quantitative measurement and analysis of the outcomes alongside creative exploration aided both a tacit understanding of, and ability to control processing parameters. This enabled repeatability of results parallel to design development and has established the potential to commercially apply the technique. Sportswear and intimate apparel prototypes produced in the study suggest suitable markets for processing polyester garments in this way.

Bei der postmortalen Befunderhebung an Zähnen im Rahmen der Identifikation unbekannter Leichen besteht die Möglichkeit, dass zahnfarbene Füllungen übersehen oder fehlgedeutet werden. Daraus entstehende Diskrepanzen zu den antemortalen Daten können zu Problemen bei der Identifikation führen. Ziel der Ar-beit war daher die Ermittlung einer zuverlässigen und praxistauglichen Methode zum sicheren Erkennen von zahnfarbenen Zahnfüllungen bei der postmortalen Befunderhebung. Dazu wurden 50 menschliche Zähne mit zahnfarbenen Füllungen versorgt und mittels UV-Licht, digitaler IR-Fotografie, digitalem Röntgen, CT und einer Schmelzfärbemethode bezüglich der Erkennbarkeit der Füllungen untersucht. Die geeignetsten Methoden wurden zusätzlich anhand von Farbfotografien in Fragebögen beurteilt. Die Schmelzfärbemethode erwies sich als die genauste Methode, aber auch mit Hilfe der UV-Fluoreszenz konnten mit 97% nahezu alle Füllungen erkannt werden. Die Röntgendiagnostik ermöglichte das Erkennen von 80% der vorhandenen zahnfarbenen Füllungen. Das CT ist unzuverlässig und die Infrarot-Fotografie ist ungeeignet für diese Fragestellung. Im Ergebnis dieser Studie kann die verbesserte Schmelzfärbung als sicherste Me-thode zur postmortalen Identifikation von zahnfarbenen Füllungen empfohlen wer-den. Als zuverlässige und schnelle „Screening Methode“ ist die Untersuchung mittels UV-Fluoreszenz geeignet. Für den sicheren Einsatz der UV-Fluoreszenz in der Rechtsmedizin sollten die Fähigkeiten der Rechtsmediziner im Umgang mit dieser Methode anhand praktischer Übungen geschult werden.

This work examines sustainable functions for another workwear. It argues fora culture shift within many fields: private, politically, global, local as well as infashion. The background is earth and human beings current situation whichneeds to be changed in order to create a sustainable living. This is understoodin the ecological, sociocultural and economical sustainable model and contextualixedfor agricultural workwear.The issue of construction methods in workwear is examined and understoodin relationship to the non-rationale and aesthetical function; the need to workand the need to dwell.New ideas of rationale function workwear is proposed which argues for theneed of a greater look upon sustainability and non-rationale ideas within thefield of current workwear.This includes:1. Construction methods for a. Greater movement, b. Fewer stretch pointswithin garments and c. Advanced vs. simplicity.2. Aesthetic forms exploring a. Aesthetic as sustainable, b.The two natures ofworking and dwelling spoken is terms of construction and empty space, c.Different cultures of old and new.3. Material: a. sustainable raw fibers as organic Hemp and Cotton b. Secondhand material as deadstock, surplus and waste, c. Performing materials fordifferent occasions4.Colour and structure: a. Bio-organic natural Indigo dyeing vats, b. Dyeingwith natural dyes as Madder, Brazil Wood and Acorns on cellulose basedmaterial, c. D.I.Y coating with Beewax, Flax Oil and Parafine, d. The spectrumof new/clean and patina of age/worn.which all are used as expressive research tools to understand different perspectivesof sustainable function for another workwear within a culture shift;the background of the past, the beauty of life and finally proposals for a futureseen as the ecological age. / Program: Modedesignutbildningen

The aim of this research was to find a suitable alternative medium of scarce freshwater for textile dyeing, and to recycle and reuse the dyebath using a combined coagulation/flocculation and novel filter media. Simulated seawater (SSW) was tested as the alternative dyeing medium with a salt concentration of 3.5% where NaCl was the major component. Fibre/dye systems of wool/acid and metal complex, wool/reactive, polyester/disperse, nylon/acid and metal complex, and acrylic/cationicdyes were tested in simulated seawater and the performances of dyed fabric were compared to conventional dyeing system of distilled water (DSW). The study found that commercial dyeing processes were robust and can be practically transferable into the seawater medium. The dye exhaustions, build-up, colour characteristics, and fastness to wash, cross-staining, rub and light were satisfactory within the dye ranges studied, which covers commercially available monochromatic Red, Yellow and Blue at light, medium and deep shades. Although SEM micrographs didn't show any presence of salt, a typical wash-off process of 1gL-1 with a non-ionic detergent at 70°C was sufficient to remove any salt that could be present on the surface or sub-surface of the dyed fabric. At room temperature, some acid and metal complex dyes were only partially soluble in SSW but this improved with gentle heating and addition of levelling agents. At dyeing temperatures near the boil, these dyes were completely soluble. A saturation limit was found to be existed for acrylic dyeing of cationic dyes over 1.0% o.m.f. depth. Although ionic interaction was the dominant mechanism for dyeing of wool, nylon and acrylic fibre with acid, metal complex and cationic dyes, the adsorption in highly saline dyebath most likely depended on the combined effects of ionic and physical/hydrophobic interaction. The resultant effect was higher dye exhaustion and consequently higher colour difference in SSW for some dyes. Reactive dyes were known to be sensitive to hardness of water but this study confirmed that reactive dye could be an alternative for deep dyeing for wool fibre in SSW. Reactive dyeing of wool followed a similar mechanism of gradual phase transfer as was observed for disperse dyeing of hydrophobic fibres over 3.0% o.m.f. depth. In contrast disperse dyeing of polyester produced consistent results for all dyes but some black dyeings produced superior colour strength in SSW. The build-up of colour in SSW compared to DSW can be different depending on the application level. To improve permeate flux by reducing membrane fouling, a number of surface modification were carried out to introduce fluorine based functional groups. Gaseous fluorination, fluorocarbon finish (FC) and plasma polymerisation were performed to introduce hydrophilic and oleophobic properties on supplied Azurtex membrane. The fluorinated Azurtex media exhibited increased wettability although it was not directly proportional to an increase in the fluorination level and treatment time. The water and oil repellency of FC and plasma treated filter media provided a reasonable level of repellency while the contact angle remained in the range of 130 to 145°. Pre-fluorination of filter media before FC treatment didn't change the water and oil repellency. Surface characterisation of Azurtex media was performed with ATR-FTIR, XPS and SEM. An increased level of fluorination at 10%F2 and prolonged exposure showed a degradation of the surface along with colour change. The fluorinated, FC treated and plasma polymerised membrane showed a typical C-F stretching vibration in the region of 1100-1350 cm-1 and weakly at 400-800cm-1. The XPS study showed a gradual increase in the -CF2 and -CF3 functionality signal intensities that resulted in imparting hydrophobicity The benchmarking of these modified Azurtex filter media against newly developed materials proved that plasma treatment improved the flow, reduced turbidity and provided an easy cake removal compared to fluorinated and FC finished filter media. Recycling of exhausted dyebath using a dual component coagulant/flocculant system of Pluspac 2000 and polyanionic Hydrosolanum protein derivative (HPSS) and microfiltration with Azurtex filter media was investigated. The process parameters such as pH and dosage of coagulants/flocculants were very critical during coagulation/flocculation for overall colour removal. The trial with model dye solution in SSW showed that the system worked in the saline environment with a relatively high concentration ratio of coagulant/flocculants but highly depends on the class and structure of dyes. Maximum colour removal was achieved for Lanaset Blue 2R and Sandolan Red MF-GRLN dye and was 89% and 61%, respectively, based on a ratio of 15:10 and 15:15 for PP2000: HPSS at pH 4.0 and 5.0, respectively. The reuse of the dyebath with combined physico-chemical and micro-filtration treatment was demonstrated to be feasible with wool/acid dye system. The colour profile of Lanaset Blue 2R and Sandolan Red MF-GRLN dyed fabrics up to 12th dyeing, with dyebath filtration undertaken after the 3rd /4th/5th reuse of the dyebath, remained comparable to dyeing in fresh baths. The colour strength, K/S, decreased after every filtration and the colour differences, DeltaE increased, but reversed in subsequent dyeing in reused dyebath. The wash and dry rub fastness of the dyed fabrics remained comparable and significant improvements in the abrasion resistance were observed.

by Chung Ho Yan. / Thesis (M.Phil.)--Chinese University of Hong Kong, 2003. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves 127-141). / Text in English; abstracts in English and Chinese. / by Chung Ho Yan. / Acknowledgments --- p.i / Abstract --- p.ii / Table of Contents --- p.v / List of Figures --- p.xi / List of Plates --- p.xiv / List of Tables --- p.xv / Chapter 1. --- INTRODUCTION --- p.1 / Chapter 1.1 --- Textile-Dyeing Industry in Hong Kong --- p.1 / Chapter 1.2 --- Processes Involved in Dyeing Industry --- p.3 / Chapter 1.2.1 --- Desizing --- p.3 / Chapter 1.2.2 --- Scouring --- p.3 / Chapter 1.2.3 --- Bleaching --- p.3 / Chapter 1.2.4 --- Mercerizing --- p.4 / Chapter 1.2.5 --- Dyeing and Printing --- p.4 / Chapter 1.2.6 --- Finishing --- p.4 / Chapter 1.3 --- Characterization of Wastewater of Dyeing Industry --- p.5 / Chapter 1.4 --- Toxicity of Effluent from Textile-Dyeing Industry --- p.9 / Chapter 1.5 --- Related Environmental Legislation --- p.9 / Chapter 1.6 --- Chemical Specific Approach and Toxicity Based Approach --- p.11 / Chapter 1.7 --- Whole-Effluent Toxicity (WET) Test --- p.13 / Chapter 1.8 --- Toxicity Identification Evaluation --- p.14 / Chapter 1.8.1 --- Phase I - Toxicity Characterization --- p.15 / Chapter 1.8.2 --- Phase II - Toxicity Identification --- p.15 / Chapter 1.8.3 --- Phase III - Toxicity Confirmation --- p.18 / Chapter 1.9 --- Toxicity Identification Evaluation on Effluent from Textile-Dyeing Industry --- p.19 / Chapter 1.10 --- Organisms Used for Toxicity Identification Evaluation --- p.20 / Chapter 1.11 --- Selection of Organisms for Bioassays --- p.20 / Chapter 2. --- OBJECTIVES --- p.24 / Chapter 3. --- MATERIALS AND METHODS --- p.25 / Chapter 3.1 --- Sources of Samples --- p.25 / Chapter 3.2 --- Whole Effluent Toxicity Test - Baseline Toxicity Test --- p.28 / Chapter 3.2.1 --- Microtox® test --- p.28 / Chapter 3.2.2 --- "Survival test of the marine amphipod, Hyale crassicornis" --- p.29 / Chapter 3.2.3 --- "Survival test of the brine shrimp, Artemia franciscana" --- p.33 / Chapter 3.2.4 --- "Survival test of the freshwater water flea, Daphnia magna" --- p.36 / Chapter 3.3 --- Toxicity Identification Evaluation ´ؤ Phase I Toxicity Characterization --- p.40 / Chapter 3.3.1 --- pH adjustment filtration test --- p.41 / Chapter 3.3.2 --- pH adjustment aeration test --- p.42 / Chapter 3.3.3 --- pH adjustment cation exchange test --- p.43 / Chapter 3.3.4 --- pH adjustment anion exchange test --- p.44 / Chapter 3.3.5 --- pH adjustment C18 solid phase extraction (C18 SPE) test --- p.45 / Chapter 3.3.6 --- pH adjustment XAD-2 solid phase extraction (XAD-2 SPE) test --- p.46 / Chapter 3.4 --- Toxicity Identification Evaluation - Phase II Toxicity Identification --- p.47 / Chapter 3.4.1 --- Determination of anions --- p.48 / Chapter 3.5 --- Toxicity Identification Evaluation ´ؤ Phase III Toxicity Confirmation --- p.50 / Chapter 3.5.1 --- Mase balance test --- p.50 / Chapter 3.5.2 --- Spiking test --- p.51 / Chapter 4. --- RESULTS --- p.52 / Chapter 4.1 --- Characteristics of Samples --- p.52 / Chapter 4.2 --- Whole Effluent Toxicity Test - Baseline Toxicity Test --- p.52 / Chapter 4.2.1 --- Toxicity of effluent sample determined by the Microtox® test --- p.52 / Chapter 4.2.2 --- Toxicity of effluent samples determined by Hyale crassicornis survival test --- p.52 / Chapter 4.2.3 --- Toxicity of effluent samples determined by Artemia franciscana survival test --- p.57 / Chapter 4.2.4 --- Toxicity of effluent samples determined by Daphnia magna survival test --- p.51 / Chapter 4.3 --- Toxicity Identification Evaluation - Phase I Toxicity Characterization --- p.57 / Chapter 4.3.1 --- Toxicity characterization of effluent samples determined by Hyale crassicornis survival test --- p.60 / Chapter 4.3.2 --- Toxicity characterization of effluent samples determined by Artemia franciscana survival test --- p.68 / Chapter 4.3.3 --- Toxicity characterization of effluent samples determined by Daphnia magna survival test --- p.68 / Chapter 4.4 --- Toxicity Identification Evaluation ´ؤ Phase II Toxicity Identification --- p.72 / Chapter 4.4.1 --- Baseline anion concentrations in effluent samples --- p.75 / Chapter 4.4.2 --- Sample1 --- p.75 / Chapter 4.4.3 --- Sample2 --- p.75 / Chapter 4.4.4 --- Sample3 --- p.75 / Chapter 4.4.5 --- Sample4 --- p.81 / Chapter 4.4.6 --- Sample5 --- p.81 / Chapter 4.4.7 --- Sample6 --- p.81 / Chapter 4.5 --- Toxicity Identification Evaluation 一 Phase III Toxicity Confirmation --- p.85 / Chapter 4.5.1 --- Mass balance test results --- p.85 / Chapter 4.5.2 --- Spiking test results --- p.96 / Chapter 5. --- DISCUSSION --- p.102 / Chapter 5.1 --- Whole Effluent Toxicity Test ´ؤ Baseline Toxicity Test --- p.102 / Chapter 5.1.1 --- Toxicity of effluent sample determined by the Microtox® test --- p.102 / Chapter 5.1.2 --- Toxicity of effluent samples determined by Hyale crassicornis survival test --- p.103 / Chapter 5.1.3 --- Toxicity of effluent samples determined by Artemia franciscana survival test --- p.104 / Chapter 5.1.4 --- Toxicity of effluent samples determined by Daphnia magna survival test --- p.104 / Chapter 5.2 --- Toxicity Identification Evaluation ´ؤ Phase I Toxicity Characterization --- p.105 / Chapter 5.2.1 --- pH adjustment filtration test --- p.105 / Chapter 5.2.2 --- pH adjustment aeration test --- p.106 / Chapter 5.2.3 --- pH adjustment cation exchange test --- p.106 / Chapter 5.2.4 --- pH adjustment anion exchange test --- p.106 / Chapter 5.2.5 --- pH adjustment C18 solid phase extraction (C18 SPE) test --- p.107 / Chapter 5.2.6 --- pH adjustment XAD-2 solid phase extraction (XAD-2 SPE) test --- p.107 / Chapter 5.3 --- Toxicity Identification Evaluation - Phase II Toxicity Identification --- p.107 / Chapter 5.3.1 --- Efficiency on chemical reduction of pH adjustment filtration test --- p.109 / Chapter 5.3.2 --- Efficiency on chemical reduction of pH adjustment aeration test --- p.109 / Chapter 5.3.3 --- Efficiency on chemical reduction of pH adjustment cation exchange test --- p.109 / Chapter 5.3.4 --- Efficiency on chemical reduction of pH adjustment anion exchange test --- p.109 / Chapter 5.3.5 --- Efficiency on chemical reduction of pH adjustment CI8 SPE test --- p.109 / Chapter 5.3.6 --- Efficiency on chemical reduction of pH adjustment XAD-2 SPE test --- p.110 / Chapter 5.4 --- Toxicity Identification Evaluation - Phase III Toxicity Confirmation --- p.110 / Chapter 5.4.1 --- Mass balance test results --- p.110 / Chapter 5.4.2 --- Spiking test results --- p.114 / Chapter 5.5 --- Comparison of Toxicant(s) Identified in the Six Dyeing Industrial Effluents --- p.117 / Chapter 5.6 --- Toxicant(s) Identified in Textile-Dyeing Industrial Effluent --- p.119 / Chapter 5.7 --- "Sources, Fate and Treatment of Sulfite Ion" --- p.120 / Chapter 5.8 --- Toxicity of Sulfite Ion --- p.121 / Chapter 5.9 --- Effect of Salinity on the Toxicity of Sulfite Ion --- p.122 / Chapter 5.10 --- Recommendation --- p.123 / Chapter 6. --- CONCLUSIONS / Chapter 7. --- REFERENCES / Chapter 8. --- APPENDICES

Textile processing methods such as conventional exhaustion dyeing, pre-treatments and printing consume high amounts of water and use partly toxic and hazardous chemicals which are non-degradable. These chemicals (e.g. excess amount of dye, additives and catalysts) remain partially in the waste-water which is drained out and ends up polluting the environment. The supercritical carbon dioxide dyeing technology presents an eco-friendly and water-free method with reduced use of chemicals and energy. The benefits of such technology are currently not overcoming the relative high investment costs which impede its full implementation into the textile industry. This study presents an approach to extent the application of the eco-friendly supercritical carbon dioxide technology. It combines the well-studied supercritical carbon dioxide dyeing process for polyester with the functionalisation process to obtain water repellent surface properties. As water repellent (substance) environmentally benign silicones are used. Results showed that the simultaneous dyeing and functionalisation process was feasible assessed by the compatibility of the dye and silicone in the system. Silicone and dye did not interfere in each other’s functionality (colour strength and water contact angle). Further the process temperature and silicone molecular weight showed no influence on the colour strength of the fabric whereas the water contact angle (water repellence) increased with increasing temperature. The resulting polyester fabric showed acceptable colour strength yet did not obtain sufficient water repellent properties despite the increase in water contact angle of the treated samples to the untreated reference sample. The poor water repellence is suggested to be caused by the hydrophobic functional groups of the silicones oriented towards each other rather than toward the outer fabric surface. Overall the thesis is promoting research which combines eco-friendly technologies including environmental benign chemicals for the textile industry. Silicones are widely used in textile processing not only as water repellents, but also as anti-foaming agents, lubricants and softeners. Therefore a water-free and eco-friendly application method can benefit a wide range of finishing processes.

Centrée sur l'espace constitué par le royaume de France et ses colonies, cette thèse met en évidence les structures et les dynamiques du marché de l'indigo, entre le milieu du XVIIe et la fin du XVIIIe siècle. Colorant exotique principalement employé en teinture, l'indigo fait partie de ces nouveaux produits qui transforment la palette des couleurs à l'époque moderne. Le secteur de la finition des étoffes est alors un secteur fondamental de la production textile. Il est réglementé afin de garantir aux consommateurs la solidité et la beauté des couleurs, mais au cours du XVIIIe siècle, devient aussi le cœur de l'innovation textile afin de répondre aux nouvelles demandes d'une population qui a adopté la « culture des apparences » (Daniel Roche). La France est au cœur du marché de l'indigo européen et atlantique en raison de sa position dominante dans la production et redistribution du colorant bleu, Saint-Domingue étant le principal producteur d'indigo pendant tout le XVIIIe siècle. La longue distance et le grand nombre d'intermédiaires entre les utilisateurs et les producteurs, limite les moyens dont disposent les acteurs pour relayer leurs attentes. Le rôle des grands négociants des ports du royaume est essentiel, à l'interface entre production et consommation. La grande hétérogénéité des qualités des indigos mis sur le commerce, l'existence de réputations de qualité associées aux différentes zones de production pour l'Europe, qui recoupent des filières de distribution distinctes par empire, invite à s'interroger sur l'éventuelle segmentation des marchés, en fonction des effets recherchés en teinture et des réseaux de redistribution. / From the middle of the 17th to the end of the 18th century, the French empire had a dominant position in the market for indigo in Europe. From Saint-Domingue, indigo was imported in France and then reexported to the Mediterranean and North European countries. Indigo was a tropical dyestuff that was widely used in the textile industry on cotton, silken and woolen textiles. The dyeing industry was one of the most innovative sectors in the textile industry, closely connected with new inflows of tropical dyestuffs, technical exchanges with Asia and the Americas and the birth of modem chemistry. This dissertation aims at showing how in the long distance trade, producers and users of indigo were able to communicate, considering that indigo was a highly heterogeneous dyestuff.