Tesis por compendio / [ES] La integración de electrónica en los tejidos para obtener nuevas funcionalidades es una de las apuestas de futuro de la industria textil y de la moda. Al estar compuestos parcialmente por tejido, los textiles electrónicos proporcionan a los usuarios un mayor confort, durabilidad y ligereza que otros dispositivos, manteniendo al mismo tiempo las propiedades electrónicas. No obstante, conseguir estas nuevas funcionalidades, a un coste asequible y asegurando la flexibilidad y ligereza propias de los tejidos, sigue siendo un reto para el sector. El área de la electrónica impresa ha permitido el desarrollo de una electrónica flexible combinando métodos de impresión tradicionales con el uso de tintas electrónicas. La técnica de impresión flexográfica destaca entre las demás por ofrecer altas velocidades de fabricación, calidad y alta productividad a bajo coste. En el ámbito textil, sin embargo, su incorporación es todavía muy reciente y no hay suficientes estudios para su aplicación. En este contexto, esta tesis doctoral tiene como objetivo fundamental estudiar la novedosa aplicación de la técnica de la flexografía sobre materiales textiles. Para ello, se ha tomado como base los actuales conocimientos de la autora en el área de la electrónica impresa textil empleando la tecnología serigráfica. Con este fin, durante el desarrollo de la tesis se realiza, en primer lugar, el estudio de los parámetros necesarios para la aplicación de dicha tecnología en diferentes substratos. Del estudio se obtienen diferentes valores adecuados para la impresión mediante flexografía según si el sustrato se trata de un tejido, un no-tejido, un sustrato polimérico o un papel siliconado. En segundo lugar, se definen los protocolos que permiten la integración de tintas con características eléctricas en las telas empleando la tecnología flexográfica. Por un lado, se estudia el impacto de los parámetros estructurales de un tejido de calada en la conductividad de la tinta impresa y, por otro lado, la influencia del material de la trama en la conductividad de elementos conductores-resistivos. Para ello, se realiza una impresión controlada sobre tejidos de calada utilizando la misma tinta conductora de plata y se analizan las propiedades físicas y eléctricas de las muestras resultantes. Se concluye que, cuanto mayor sea la densidad del textil, menor es la conductividad final de la impresión, y que el algodón es el material menos recomendable para la impresión electrónica mediante la técnica de la flexografía. Finalmente, se trabaja en el objetivo de desarrollar un sistema de medición de temperatura continuo mediante impresión electrónica sobre sustratos flexibles y elásticos mediante serigrafía para su traslación a flexografía. Se consigue desarrollar con éxito un sistema robusto, de bajo consumo y confortable para los pacientes que permite la adquisición de los datos de temperatura de forma continua. / [CAT] La integració d'electrònica en els teixits per a obtenir noves funcionalitats és una de les apostes de futur de la indústria tèxtil i de la moda. A l'estar compostos parcialment per teixit, els tèxtils electrònics proporcionen als usuaris un major confort, durabilitat i lleugeresa que altres dispositius, mentre mantenen les mateixes propietats electròniques. No obstant això, aconseguir aquestes noves funcionalitats, a un cost assequible i mantenint la flexibilitat i lleugeresa pròpies dels teixits, continua sent un repte per al sector. L'àrea de l'electrònica impresa ha permès el desenvolupament d'una electrònica flexible combinant mètodes d'impressió tradicionals amb l'ús de tintes electròniques. La tècnica d'impressió flexogràfica destaca entre les altres per oferir altes velocitats de fabricació, qualitat i alta productivitat a baix cost. En l'àmbit tèxtil, no obstant això, la seua incorporació és encara molt recent i no hi ha suficients estudis per a la seua aplicació. En este context, esta tesi doctoral té com a objectiu fonamental estudiar la nova aplicació de la tècnica de la flexografia sobre materials tèxtils. Per a això, s'ha pres com a base els actuals coneixements de l'autora en l'àrea de l'electrònica impresa tèxtil emprant la tecnologia serigràfica. Amb este fi, durant el desenrotllament de la tesi es realitza, en primer lloc, l'estudi dels paràmetres necessaris per a l'aplicació de la dita tecnologia en diferents substrats. De l'estudi s'obtenen diferents valors adequats per a la impressió per mitjà de flexografia segons si el substrat es tracta d'un teixit, un no-teixit, un substrat polimèric o un paper siliconat. En segon lloc, es defineixen els protocols que permeten la integració de tintes amb característiques elèctriques en les te les emprant la tecnologia flexogràfica. D'una banda, s'estudia l'impacte dels paràmetres estructurals d'un teixit de calada en la conductivitat de la tinta impresa i, d'altra banda, la influència del material de la trama en la conductivitat d'elements conductors-resistius. Per a això, es realitza una impressió controlada sobre teixits de calada utilitzant la mateixa tinta conductora de plata i s'analitzen les propietats físiques i elèctriques de les mostres resultants. Es conclou que, quant major siga la densitat del tèxtil, menor és la conductivitat final de la impressió, i que el cotó és el material menys recomanable per a la impressió electrònica per mitjà de la tècnica de la flexografia. Finalment, es treballa en l'objectiu de desenrotllar un sistema de mesurament de temperatura continu per mitjà d'impressió electrònica sobre substrats flexibles i elàstics per mitjà de serigrafia per a la seua translació a flexografia. S'aconsegueix desenrotllar amb èxit un sistema robust, de baix consum i confortable per als pacients que permet l'adquisició de les dades de temperatura de forma contínua. / [EN] Electronics' integration into textiles to obtain new functionalities is one of the bets for the future of the textile and fashion industry. Electronic textiles provide users greater comfort, durability, and lightness than other devices as they are partially made of fabric, while maintaining the same electronic properties. However, achieving these new functionalities, maintaining the flexibility and flexibility typical of the fabrics with at affordable cost, continues to be a challenge for the sector. The area of printed electronics has allowed the development of flexible electronics by combining traditional printing methods with the use of electronic inks. The flexographic printing technique stands out among the others for offering high manufacturing speeds, quality, and high productivity at low cost. In the textile field, however, its incorporation is still very recent and there are not enough studies for its application. In this context, this doctoral thesis fundamental objective is to study the novel application of the flexography technique on textile materials. For this, the current knowledge of the author about printed textile electronics using serigraphic technology has been taken as a basis. To this end, for the development of the thesis, in the first place the study of the necessary parameters for the application of this technology in different substrates has been carried out. Different suitable values for flexographic printing have been obtained from the study regarding whether the substrate is a fabric, a non-woven, a polymeric substrate or a silicone-coated paper. Secondly, the protocols that allow the integration of electrical inks with fabrics using flexographic technology have been defined. On the one hand, the impact of the structural parameters of a woven fabric on the conductivity of the printed ink has been studied. On the other hand, also the influence of the weft material on the conductivity of conductive-resistive elements was also studied. To do this, a controlled impression has been made on woven fabrics using the same conductive silver ink. Then both physical and electrical properties of the resulting samples have been analysed. It has been concluded that the higher the density of the textile, the lower final conductivity of the print is. Also, it has been defined that cotton is the least recommended material for electronic printing when using the flexography technique. Finally, towards the objective of developing a continuous temperature measurement system by electronic printing on flexible and elastic substrates, work has been carried out using screen printing for its translation into flexography. It has been possible to successfully develop a robust, low-consumption and comfortable system for patients that allows the continuous acquisition of temperature data. / Rodes Carbonell, AM. (2022). Dispositivos electrónicos impresos sobre sustratos textiles mediante la técnica de flexografía [Tesis doctoral]. Universitat Politècnica de València. https://doi.org/10.4995/Thesis/10251/189164 / Compendio

Call number: LD2668 .T4 1979 B69 / Master of Science

Call number: LD2668 .T4 1985 P68 / Master of Science

The manufacturing and characterisation of piezoelectric textile fibres are described in this thesis. A piezoelectric material is one that generates an electric voltage when deformed, a property which exists in a number of materials. The polymer with the strongest known piezoelectric effect today is poly(vinylidene fluoride) (PVDF), however it must be processed under certain conditions to become piezoelectric. This study shows that piezoelectric bicomponent PVDF-based fibres can be produced by melt spinning, which is a common and relatively simple fibre spinning method. The melt spinning process must include cold drawing, as this introduces a polar crystalline structure in the polymer. The fibres must also be electroded, which is done by producing bicomponent fibres with a core-and-sheath structure. The core is electrically conductive and constitutes an inner electrode consisting of a carbon black/polymer compound, whereas the sheath is PVDF and constitutes the piezoelectric component. Being sensitive to both deformation and temperature changes, these fibres are anticipated to be useful in a number of sensor applications. The flexibility and small size of the fibres makes it possible to include them as miniature-sensors in structures or garment without affecting the shape or comfort.

I have explored the combination of sound, textile and space. How can one create textiles to use as sound dampening material in an arts and craft practice? To enhance the architectural aspect of textile as one of the five building materials I have chosen to weave walls. Walls don´t have to be straight or go from floor to ceiling but they should somehow create room and divide the space. I felt the need of walls working within Konstfack because of the distraction of fellow students in the open space classroom. Torn walls tells a story, we see the left traces. These traces I wanted to convert into woven textile. Sounds of people and objects in public spaces bounces between hard surfaces often without dampening, this creates an environment that causes stress and distraction. In Virginia Wolf´s essay “A room of Ones Own” (1929) she points at how important it is to create a workspace for the professional you, to take place and be part of the public realm. A big part of this master project has been making the actual materials to build with and executing fibre. Does the material do the job of sound absorption? Wool and silk both have a fibrous cell, which is suitable for sound absorption they also have low flammability and is biodegradable; therefore I chose to work mainly with these fibres. I share my knowledge through the experience of the space I create. How to create o Room of one´s own in an open office.

This essay is a study of Agnes Martin (1912-2004), a Canadian-born and American-based contemporary artist, and her earlier painting practice including, but not limited, to her work Falling Blue of 1963. The exploration of this piece and others frames Martin’s early work as a process of material exploration analogous to weaving and fiber art. This framing is enhanced by the friendship and professional exchange between Martin and artist Lenore Tawney (1907-2007). The textile lens, as explored in this paper, has been undeveloped compared to other approaches to Martin’s early work and practice.

El contenido esta basado en un programa de capacitación estructurado para operarios de confección Textil, cuyo objetivo es desarrollar destrezas y habilidades por medio de una metodología que consiste en una serie de pasos y se adapta al producto específico. El aspecto técnico de la capacitación se complementa con componentes de recursos humanos que enfatizarán la comunicación y la motivación.

Ce travail constitue une contribution à l'étude de l'influence de la déformation libre des fibres textiles sous l'effet des contraintes hydriques sur la structure globale d'un tricot Jersey et d'un tissu Toile en coton, ayant subi les mêmes traitements de finition. Une comparaison entre les capacités de sorption du Jersey et des fils défilés de leur structure montre que le serrage géométrique limite les capacités de sorption du Jersey. Les coefficients du tenseur déformation plane du Jersey sous l'effet d'un cycle d'adsorption/désorption montre un gonflement croissant en fonction de l'humidité au moment de l'adsorption et un rétrécissement presque linéaire au moment de la désorption pour reprendre ses valeurs initiales marquant ainsi l'effet mémoire de l'état relaxé de la structure. L'influence du repassage sur le comportement de la Toile en coton sous l'effet de deux cycles continus successifs d'adsorption/désorption est étudiée. Les résultats montrent que l'aplatissement des fils dans la structure génère une amplification de la déformation plane résultante. Un deuxième cycle d'adsorption successif montre l'annulation complète de l'effet de repassage. Une comparaison entre les isothermes d'adsorption et de désorption d'un tissu Toile repassé et non repassé montre que les isothermes de sorption de la Toile repassée et non repassée se collent dés la troisième zone de l'isotherme du premier cycle d'adsorption, ce qui explique que l'encombrement stérique des molécules d'eau dans la structure de la Toile repassée génère un réarrangement stéréochimique de la structure supramoléculaire pour reprendre une forme similaire à la Toile non repassée. / The 2D deformation of bleached plain weave and Jersey cotton ready to wear clothing was measured during adsorption and desorption cycles. The strain along warp and weft directions and the shear deformation were evaluated by image correlation process. The dimensional variations are explained by geometrical consideration of the structure at microscopic (fibers scale) and macroscopic levels (yarns scale). Indeed, the reaction between water vapor molecules and material enlightens two steps. At first, the swelling fibers fill the micro pores inside the yarns. Then, the yarns swell and push on their neighbors to fill up the macro pores and cause the macroscopic swelling of the overall structure. During the desorption phase, the fibers shrink to create a free space inside the plain weave structure that will be relaxed to find its initial state. The shear deformation is related to the cohesion by twist between cotton fibers. The ironing generates flattened yarns and increases their friction which amplifies the deformation during the first adsorption cycle. However, this effect is cancelled at the end of the first adsorption / desorption cycle with no memory effect of the ironing process. These results are confirmed by comparison between sorption isotherms of ironed and not ironed plain weave samples. A comparison between the sorption capacity of Jersey and yarn made of the same structure shows that the geometric form decreases the sorption capacity of jersey especially at high humidity. Then knitting infects the swelling of yarns and decreases their sorption capacity.

This thesis contributes towards the knowledge of post conflict crafts of Kashmir and the role women play in this sector. It proposes crafts to be a culturally relevant activity which could generate income for people living in Kashmir. It analyses the impact of the conflict on the crafts of Kashmir from the perspective of the craftspeople. The research is based on fieldwork conducted in Srinagar, Kashmir (2003-2006). Here craftsmen’s groups were studied and a craftswomen’s organisation – Zanana Dastakari was used as a case study. Fieldwork techniques allowed the voices of crafts people to be heard, allowing this study to be conducted from their perspective. Supporting literature was used to place Kashmir within the larger context of crafts, gender and conflict. The research found the crafts of Kashmir to have changed in response to the conflict, the most significant shift being of women joining the crafts sector as stakeholders. Women have selected the area of crafts due to their subjective preferences, which often stem from their identity as Muslim women. This work proposes links between poverty, unemployment and conflict and suggests that culture can play a role in economic development. In Kashmir economic development and reconstruction could be boosted through promotion of this sector. The implications of this research in light of other research indicates a need for deeper understanding of identities and needs of women in conflict zones and the evolution of coping mechanisms used by them to generate sustainable incomes.

The contemporary world landscape is epitomised by a highly globalised world economy, where neo-liberal agendas push for ultimate competitiveness and much of the manufacturing and production processes have been relocated from core to semi-peripheral countries. To be able to compete in the global arena, many developing nations and newly emerging economies have sacrificed an approach to sustainable development by neglecting social and ecological aspects. A showcase of such unsustainable growth in recent years can be observed in Tirupur, South India. Tirupur’s heavy export orientation of ready-knitted garments transformed it into a major textiles cluster for fashion retailers and buyer groups worldwide. However, the substantial pollution of water resources due to the discharge of raw effluents by processing units into the Noyyal river and the overexploitation of groundwater cast a shadow on the city’s economic expansion. In order to tackle these challenges, a number of regulatory directives were issued from the mid 1990’s onwards, leading to the enforcement of strict Zero Liquid Discharge norms in the cluster. This study investigates whether intervention efforts directed at Tirupur’s textiles sector have been able to address inherent challenges impacting the local environment and population. The findings gathered from an extensive literature review and a field study to Tirupur suggest that while some problems of the past have been attended to, major sustainability issues remain. Serious concerns such as a shift in pollution and economical uncertainty in the cluster have been identified as consequences from the policy interventions.