A indústria têxtil busca recuperar a diminuição do ritmo dos negócios, notado principalmente em países desenvolvidos devido ao cenário da economia mundial, por meio da elaboração de têxteis com maior valor agregado. A microencapsulação é uma técnica versátil e flexível que apresenta diversas vantagens, como evitar que o princípio ativo reaja com outros compostos presentes no sistema e possibilitar a liberação controlada, que aumenta potencialmente a eficiência do produto. O principal objetivo deste trabalho foi desenvolver microcápsulas de quitosana e alginato com incorporação de Triclosan, que possui propriedades bactericida e fungicida, para aplicação em substratos têxteis para utilizações médicas. As microcápsulas foram produzidas a partir do método de emulsificação e reticulação, e caracterizadas por Termogravimetria (TG), Calorimetria Exploratória Diferencial (DSC), Espectroscopia no Infravermelho com Transformada de Fourier (FTIR), capacidade de absorção de água e perda de massa, Microscopia Eletrônica de Varredura (MEV), ensaio de atividade bactericida e liberação in vitro. Após caracterizadas, as microcápsulas foram impregnadas em tecidos 100% algodão com ligamentos tela e sarja. Estes foram submetidos a testes físicos e análise de resistência à lavagem. As microcápsulas produzidas apresentaram forma esférica e tiveram 80,78% de eficiência de encapsulação do fármaco. Os ensaios de liberação mostraram que o fármaco não foi liberado em 24h, entretanto, o material apresentou atividade bactericida contra a bactéria gram-positiva S. aureus, com halo de inibição de até 60 mm e também contra a bactéria gram-negativa E. coli, com halo de até 25 mm. Os resultados de resistência à lavagem avaliados por MEV mostraram que as microcápsulas não permenceram no substrato. Entretanto, o material apresentou atividade antibacteriana podendo ser interessante para aplicação em materiais têxteis descartáveis, como bandagens utilizadas na área médica / The textile industry seeks to recover the decrease of the pace of business, noted mainly in developed countries due to the scenario of the world economy, through the development of textiles with higher added value. The microencapsulation is a versatile and flexible technique that presents several advantages such as to avoid that the active ingredient react with other compounds present in the system, and allow controlled release that potentially increases the efficiency of the product. The main objective of this work was to develop microcapsules of chitosan and alginate with incorporation of triclosan, which has bactericidal and fungicide properties, for use in textile substrates for medical uses. The microcapsules were produced from the method of emulsification and crosslinking, and characterized by Thermogravimetry (TG), Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC), Infrared Spectroscopy Fourier Transform (FTIR), water absorption capacity and mass loss, Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM), bactericidal activity assay and in vitro release. After characterized, the microcapsules were impregnated in 100% cotton twill and taffeta woven. Physical tests and analysis of resistance to washing were carried out. The microcapsules produced presented spherical shape and had 80.78% of drug encapsulation efficiency. Release tests showed that the drug was not released in 24 hours, however, the material presented bactericidal activity against the gram-positive bacterium S. aureus, with inhibition halo up to 60 mm and also against the gram-negative bacterium E. coli, with halo of up to 25 mm. The results of washing resistance evaluated by SEM showed that the microcapsules did not remain in the substrate. However, the material showed antibacterial activity and may be interesting for application in disposable textiles, such as bandages used in the medical field

El presente trabajo de investigación tiene como objetivo elaborar una Propuesta de Rediseño Organizacional en la Asociación de Textileros Artesanales Awakuq Makikuna de Porcón Alto - Cajamarca”, con la finalidad de mejorar su nivel de competitividad en el mercado actual, para lo cual se utilizaron técnicas las cuales fueron entrevistas aplicadas a todos los miembros que conforman la asociación, para recabar información de todos y obtener un mejor diagnóstico de los obstáculos y/o problemas que enfrentan. Con la información obtenida fue necesario realizar un análisis del entorno externo e interno de la asociación de Textileros Artesanales, así como el análisis FODA, el cual sirvió para identificar los puntos fuertes y débiles de la Asociación. Otro instrumento que se utilizó fue el análisis de Porter, para conocer su nivel de competitividad frente a otras asociaciones. Para determinar la estructura organizacional actual, se desarrolló el MOF (Manual de Organización y Funciones) para que todos los socios tengan conocimientos de sus funciones diarias, evitando así la duplicidad de tareas; logrando el éxito de la asociación. Con la información recopilada a partir de los instrumentos utilizados, se ha logrado encontrar respuestas a los objetivos planteados, estableciendo como conclusión principal la carencia de un diseño organización formal el cual permita a los asociados la posibilidad de tener los conocimientos que le permita implementar las estrategias necesarias para el funcionamiento y buen direccionamiento de la Asociación de los Textileros Artesanales de Porcón Alto-Cajamarca, brindando la posibilidad de crecer empresarialmente, llegando a nuevos mercados y llegar a posicionarse a largo plazo en el mercado textil, mejorando el crecimiento personal, profesional y economía de cada socio y de sus familias. / Tesis

Evaluar las opciones de Producción más Limpia para el control significativo de residuos y la optimización del consumo de energía en la empresa textil consorcio "Alta Moda” S.R.L. Método: La investigación es de tipo aplicada con un diseño pre-experimental. Resultados: Durante el periodo 2017 – 2018, en la empresa “Consorcio Alta Moda”, aplicamos las opciones de Producción Más Limpia: a) Mejor Control de los Procesos y b) Cambio de Tecnología, determinando así que la opción a) Mejor Control de los Procesos logrará un mejor control de la materia prima y la optimización del consumo de energía.

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El presente trabajo de tesis tiene como propósito conocer aquellos factores que limitan las importaciones de ropa de diseñador para niños desde la Unión Europea hacia Perú, en particular a la ciudad de Lima. En el capítulo dos, se describe el marco teórico que detallan los conceptos y teorías consideradas como una referencia para desarrollar el estudio y una presentación del entorno comercial tomado de fuentes secundarias que permiten entender mejor el ambiente en el que se desarrolla el sector de confecciones del Perú. En el capítulo tres, se presentan tanto la pregunta de investigación, los objetivos como las hipótesis planteadas que luego se procederán a contrastar. En el capítulo cuatro, se explica la metodología de la investigación, el tipo de la investigación, la técnica y el instrumento utilizado, además se identificó la muestra y las categorías empleadas en el estudio. En el capítulo cinco, se realizó el análisis de los datos y los resultados de las entrevistas realizadas a los segmentos de importadores, consumidores, diseñadores, representantes de entidades gubernamentales y especialistas del sector privado. Finalmente en el capítulo seis, se presentaron los hallazgos, las barreras y brechas de la investigación, las conclusiones y las recomendaciones resultado de la presente investigación. / The purpose of this thesis is to know those factors that limit imports of designer clothes for children from the European Union to Peru, in particular to the city of Lima. In chapter two, we describe the theoretical framework that details the concepts and theories considered as a reference to develop the study and a presentation of the commercial environment taken from secondary sources that allow us to better understand the environment in which the clothing sector of the Peru. In chapter three, we present both the research question, the objectives and the hypotheses that will then be tested. In chapter four, the research methodology, the type of research, the technique and the instrument used are explained, the sample and the categories used in the study were also identified. In chapter five, the analysis of the data and the results of the interviews with the segments of importers, consumers, designers, representatives of government entities and specialists from the private sector was carried out. Finally, in chapter six, the findings, barriers and gaps of the investigation, the conclusions and the recommendations resulting from the present investigation were presented. / Tesis

Gāpatia i Fa'anoanoaga is a general Samoan expression which literally means 'burden with sadness', which encompasses all aspects of loss and grief in relation to the burden of obligation to reciprocity. This project has functioned as lightening the load of the burden of grief and loss through the process of making an art installation exploring a migrant Samoan experience.My project is concerned with the exploration of Samoan matters of cultural significance such as heritage, religion, identity and family, in particular those customs pertaining to deaths and funerals. The mores and values implicit in these reflect the fundamental aspects of obligation and reciprocity in Samoan life and society. As a Samoan-born and New Zealand raised woman, my work and explorations tended to engage with the challenges of disrupting boundaries formed around ideas of cultural appropriation and cultural authenticity.Therefore this project investigates my position as a migrant Samoan living in New Zealand exploring notions of mobility and globalisation and the effects on the obligation to reciprocity through practical art means. Importantly my art practice intends to explore and position the installation of contemporary materials to speak metaphorically about my identity and issues significant to the obligation to reciprocity in the fa'aSamoa (the Samoan way or in the manner of the Samoans; according to Samoan customs and traditions) particularly the concept tautua aiga (tautua means functions or any service performed in order to support aiga or family)Conceptually my work addresses and brings forth for consideration the impact of mobility and globalisation on cultural issues and practices. Through engagement with contemporary materials and processes my work reflects a kind of 'story-telling', which in this instance is a lament for those who have passed on and for a way of life that is in flux

This thesis explores the desirability of Australia???s State museums to be inclusive of diverse cultures. In keeping with a cultural studies approach, and a commitment to social action, emphasis is placed upon enhancing the ability of State museums to fulfil obligations and expectations imposed upon them as modern collecting institutions in a culturally diverse nation. By relating the desirability and ability of State museums to attaining social justice in a multicultural Australia through broadening the concept of Australia???s heritage, the thesis is firmly situated within post-colonial discourse. The thesis analyses State multicultural, heritage, and museum legislation, in New South Wales, Victoria, and Queensland, with regard to State museums as agents of cultural policy. Results from a survey, Greeks and Museums, conducted amongst Australia???s Greeks in Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane, reveal an anomaly between their museum-going habits and the perception of those habits as expressed by government policies promoting the inclusion of Australians of a non-English speaking background in the nation???s cultural programmes. In exploring the issue of inclusiveness, the thesis highlights the need for cultural institutions to shift the emphasis away from audience development, towards greater audience participation. The thesis outlines an initiative-derived Queensland Model for establishing an inclusive relationship between museums and communities, resulting in permanent, affordable, and authoritative collections, while simultaneously improving the museums??? international reputation and networking capabilities. By using the example of one of the nation???s non-indigenous communities, and drawing upon material obtained through the survey, and a catalogue containing photographs and lists of Greek textile collections found in the Powerhouse Museum (MAAS), Sydney, the National Gallery of Victoria and the Immigration Museum, Melbourne, the Queensland Art Gallery and the Queensland Museum, Brisbane, as well as collections owned by private individuals, the thesis focuses on the role played by museums in constructing social cohesion and inclusiveness.

Views on the valuing and revitalization of textiles education in secondary schools in New South Wales (NSW) vary widely. NSW is unique in that it is the only state in Australia to have a discrete textiles related subject offered for their senior secondary qualifications. The introduction of a new syllabus for the upper secondary schools in 1999 saw the Higher School Certificate (HSC) subject of Textiles and Design become the fastest growing HSC subject from 2000 - 2004. The fact that the subject survived the review of the New HSC was a testimony to the support it received from all sectors of textiles education from secondary to tertiary level and from the professional associations representing the textiles industry. The main concern expressed by the teachers in the secondary schools was the ageing of the current teaching population and the inadequacy of the training institutions to train teachers in sufficient quantity and quality to replace those who are antici pated to retire over the next five years. The study aimed to identify the perceived value of textiles education as a means of supporting the promotion of the subject and to uncover any negative perceptions of the subject and its future so strategies could be developed to overcome any barriers to the revival and maintenance of the subject beyond 2010. Of particular interest was the value of textiles education in bridging a cultural divide between migrant students and the schools and its importance to students of all abilities for its development and expression of creativity. The negative aspects of the cost of resources and perception of low status as an academic subject in schools are addressed. The significance of the study is based in the inclusive nature of the participants represented in the study that include head teachers, secondary textiles teachers, student teachers and secondary textiles students. The diversity of perspectives gave richness to the data and provides some wonderful insights into the dynamic relationships that affect the effective presentation of textiles curriculum in secondary schools. Using models to analyse the historical influences on current perceptions of textiles, the study found evidence of the resilience and drive of new young teachers who are often not given the encouragement to develop their skills in preparation to support the future of textiles education in NSW.

The purpose of this research was to explore two ways of the application of chitosan, a biopolymer, for ink jet printing of textiles. 1) To apply chitosan as a post-treatment on the fabric ink jet printed with pigment based inks for the fixation of pigments on the fabric. 2) To incorporate chitosan as a binder in pigment based ink jet ink formulations. The incorporation of chitosan was carried out in two ways. 1) Direct addition of chitosan into the ink formulations containing surface modified pigments. 2) Preparation of chitosan encapsulated pigment nanoparticles using complex coacervation technique and using these nanoparticles for the formulation of ink jet ink. The degree of deacetylation (DD) was determined using FTIR spectroscopy. Various protocols proposed by researchers were used to determine the DD of chitosan samples used in the present study. The protocol proposed by Raut was found to be fairly accurate in determining the DD of chitosan samples. The molecular weight of chitosan was estimated using dilute solution viscometry method. The characterisation of the film forming ability of chitosan was evaluated using scanning electron microscopy (SEM). The colour strength (K/S), colour difference, colour characteristics and colour fastness to laundering and rubbing of ink jet printed fabrics post treated with chitosan were evaluated using standard methods. Post-treatment (pad-dry-cure method) of cotton fabric ink jet printed with pigment based inks revealed that chitosan could effectively fix the pigments on cotton compared to the commercial textile binders and the water-soluble derivative of chitosan. The chemical interaction between chitosan and cotton fabric was illustrated by FTIR-ATR analysis and through determination of carboxyl group content. The ink jet printed cotton fabric post treated with 3gpl chitosan (MW 156,156) maintained almost 86% of bacterial reduction against Klebsiella Pneumoniae even after 50 launderings. Inks containing chitosan were formulated and were found to be stable in terms of mean particle size and viscosity over a period of one month and for 4 freeze/thaw cycles. A magenta ink containing chitosan was selected for ink jet printing of cotton fabric. It was found that the DF was around 97% for magenta ink containing chitosan compared to around 53% fixation for magenta ink without chitosan on cotton fabric. Surface modified carbon black pigment with carboxylated (COO-) surface functionality was selected to prepare chitosan encapsulated pigment nanoparticles by complex coacervation technique. Chitosan encapsulated pigment nanoparticles with mean particle size diameter of 876 nm and 742 nm were formed when 5 ml of 0.1% w/v pigment was mixed with 2ml and 3ml of 0.1% w/v chitosan, respectively. However, no correlation was found between the particle size of the nanoparticles formed and the concentration of chitosan. The DF with ink containing chitosan encapsulated pigment nanoparticles was found to be around 98% while the blank ink with only surface modified carbon black pigment showed 44% fixation.

As science and technology has developed, the manner by which drugs can be delivered has grown. This research explores an alternative method for the delivery of therapeutic compounds to the body. The basis of the study involves the application of traditional medicines on textiles. Boswellia Serrata Extract (B.S.E.) is a common traditional medicine used for curing body pains. The most common form of B.S.E. based products are creams that are applied directly to the skin. Experiments show that these creams were not suitable as a basis for applying to textile materials because the creams contain highly volatile compounds, which on drying the treated textile, post application, cause almost total loss of the B.S.E. The approach used was the application on textiles of a 'commercial' topical medicine applied as a cream for, where B.S.E. is a major constituent. Cotton woven fabric was padded with this cream and tested for washing and rubbing fastness. The presence of highly volatile substances in the topical cream resulted in a negligible amount of the medicine on the dried treated fabric. Another approach was used for the application of B.S.E. onto the textile substrate. A commercially available B.S.E. powder was applied to woven fabric using a pad mangle. Tests were carried out to validate the