This thesis is an investigation into woven textile structures and weave construction methodologies. The main question at the heart of this research is what are smart textiles and what role/s can weaving play in the creation of such textiles in the future? A critical review of the literature led to a grammatical investigation and interpretation of the term smart textiles, and as a result a key differentiator between superficial and deep responsivity in textiles is made: the latter is henceforth used to describe the uniqueness of smart textiles (chapter 3). The thesis proceeds to explore the fundamental engineering of textiles as material systems, and by doing so, provide clues as to how fabrics could themselves be considered smart. Through this exploration, an original ‘textile anatomy’ mapping tool is presented with the aim to enhance and deepen current understanding of textiles and represent them as material systems instead (chapters 4 and 5). The hybrid research methodology that governed this investigation is unique. It relies on the creative tools of Design while also inherently applies the investigative methods of Science, Technology and Engineering (chapter 2). Weaving is explored through processes of making as an approach to develop smart textiles following an extensive historical review revealing that although methods of weave production have much evolved, the weave structures themselves have not changed at all for thousands of years (chapter 5). A series of experimental case studies are presented, which therefore seek to explore and challenge current limitations of weaving for the creation of a new generation of material systems (chapter 6). As part of this practical work the alternative fabrication technology of additive manufacturing was considered, but its role as substitute manufacturing technique for textiles was accordingly rejected. This research finds that since weaving has become solely dependent on its machines, the structures produced through these processes of manufacturing are governed by such same specifications and limitations. As a result, in order to step away from current constraints, new assembly methodologies need to be revised. This is particularly applicable within the context of future (smart) material systems, and micro and nano fabrication techniques (chapters 7, 8 and 9).

There is an intertextual web unique to Andean culture that goes beyond references to literary texts. This dissertation analyzes an alternative text, Andean textiles, two intimately related textual practices: Andean cosmology and story telling variants, and two written texts: the XVI century quechua manuscript Gods and Men from Huarochirí and José María Arguedas’ last novel The Fox from Up Above and the Fox from Down Below. In this analysis, I place the oral trace of the fox character, shared by the textualities consulted, at the center of an intertextual web that gives us an Andean perspective on the concept of cultural encounter. Through the reconstruction of this intertextual web that shares the common ground of orality, it can be said that the fox character is capable of traversing opposite spaces and inhabiting areas of contact, and we find that all of the textualities where he is to be found share the recurring tropes of origin, immigration and mestizaje. As a central conclusion of my study in regards to the relationship between textuality and identity, I propose that the way in which the fox has been textualized expresses with an admirable constancy the dilemma of a subject that transits and therefore belongs to two different worlds: condemned to lose yet destined to survive. This dissertation intends to lead to a new perspective on two literary classics, to open up space for other kinds of textualities and textual practices, to redefine the theory of intertextuality paying attention to the text and context dynamic and most importantly to stress the influence of textuality in identity formation. This dissertation is written in Spanish.

This thesis explores how women form, perceive and communicate their sense of identity by hand knitting for leisure. Leisure, defined here as time outside of work or caring responsibilities, was selected as the focus of this research because women have some choice over how they spend this time and express themselves. Writing on contemporary knitting has tended to frame knitting within political, artistic or commercial contexts (such as Black, 2005, 2012 and Elliot, 2015). This leaves a gap in our understanding of why women who knit for leisure do so. This is partially addressed by recent empirical research (for example Fields, 2014) that has studied social processes within knitting groups. However, research has devoted less attention to the wider motivations of women who knit alone or in groups. This is important if we consider that identity formation happens in a broader context, and may involve a constant interaction with people (Jenkins, 2004), objects and ideas, as is suggested by the findings of this study. The research employs a qualitative approach based on Charmaz’s (2006) grounded theory by way of a staged design which aims to respond to the data and minimise the influence of preconceived ideas. This aim is particularly important given the historical and contemporary stereotypes associated with knitting, and my own background as a textile historian and maker. Application of social research methods also aims to further develop the role played by empirical research in the area of textile scholarship. Data was collected in three stages; a pilot study, questionnaires with women textile bloggers and the main research stage which consisted of semi-structured interviews with knitters living in Edinburgh. Interviewees were contacted by volunteer and snowball sampling. Content analysis was supported by QSR*NVivo and involved descriptive and theoretical coding in order to identify themes in the data. Analysis suggests knitting provides immediate social interaction and support. This could be associated with Jenkins’ (2004) proposition that identity is formed by ongoing social interaction. However, there is another dimension here as knitting also enables the solitary knitter to access interactions with ideas and other people through objects and the personal memories held within them as well as through online communities. Three key findings are that knitting presents a way to be creative, productive and social. Firstly, respondents describe knitting as a balance between challenge and perceived ability, as might be described as ‘flow’ (Csikszentmihalyi, 2002 [1992]). Secondly, this meets a need for a leisure activity that produces a tangible manifestation of effort and skill. However, the process of knitting is also seen to be as important, if not more so, than the final product. This insight reinforces the usefulness of empirical study of the experience of making textiles, and reveals additional data than studying only the final object. Thirdly, knitting is presented as a means to access meaningful social interactions and a sense of belonging to a community whether or not the knitter is a member of a knitting group. Such interactions might be online or provide a sense of continuity with previous generations of knitters in their families or women in general. Knitters see this as a way of building social capital and support. Overall, findings suggest that identity formation and communication should be seen as a complex process that does not only involve direct social interactions but interaction with the idea of other knitters, past and present, and the practical experience of making.

L'objectif de cette étude est d'élaborer une membrane thermosensible permettant une perméabilité à la vapeur d'eau contrôlée pour améliorer le confort et la sécurité des sapeurs-pompiers. Plusieurs membranes à base de polyuréthane segmenté ont été synthétisées. L'influence du type de polyol utilisé et sa longueur, et de la quantité de segments rigides a été étudiée. Deux types de mécanisme apparaissent selon la structure chimique du polymère, i.e. une modification en masse et une modification de surface. Celles-ci changent les propriétés de diffusion de l'humidité à travers la membrane. Ces membranes ont ensuite été complexées sur un textile pour renforcer la tenue mécanique, en vue de la confection de la couche entre le sous-vêtement et la veste des sapeurs-pompiers. Ce procédé modifie peu les propriétés des membranes et les produits obtenus semblent présenter une perméabilité à la vapeur d'eau contrôlée en fonction de la température. / This study aims at developing a thermosensitive membrane allowing the water vapor to cross with a function of the temperature to enhance the comfort and the safety of firefighters. Membranes with different chemical structure were synthesized from segmented polyurethane. The influence of the polyol type and its length, and the hard segment content was studied. Two kinds of mechanisms were identified depending on the chemical structure as a bulk modification and a surface modification, that change moisture management properties. Afterwards, membranes were pressed on a textile for higher mechanical properties. The purpose of the final product is to be made inside the firefighter’s personal protective equipment, between the underwear and the jacket. The systems membrane-textile keep the properties of the membrane and present controlled water vapor permeability with the function of the temperature.

The main objective of the present study was to determine the relative role and importance of worsted suiting fabric fibre blend vis-à-vis fabric structural parameters, on the comfort related properties of 12 clothing ensembles, each comprising a different man’s suit, but the same wool/nylon underwear and cotton shirt. To achieve the objective, the comfort related properties, namely thermal resistance (Rt) and water vapour resistance (Ret) and water vapour permeability index (Im), of the clothing ensembles, as determined by means of WalterTM, a thermal sweating fabric manikin, were subjected to multi-linear and multi-quadratic analysis, as dependent variables, with the various suiting fabric parameters, namely weight, thickness, density, porosity, air permeability and wool content, as independent variables. It was found that the multi-quadratic regression analysis was able to best explain the observed differences in the clothing ensemble comfort related properties, in terms of the differences in suiting fabric properties. The regression analyses were used to isolate and quantify the effects of the various fabric and fibre content variables on the above mentioned comfort related properties of the various clothing ensembles. This study indicated that the suiting fabric structural properties (notably air permeability), had a more significant influence than either fibre blend or suiting fabric, as measured on WalterTM, a thermal sweating fabric manikin.

Diseñador Gráfico / No autorizada por el autor para ser publicada en texto completo / El presente proyecto postula para optar al Título de Diseñadora Gráfica de la Universidad de Chile. Se enfatiza en la problemática social de la cultura Aymara por medio del trabajo textil de mujeres pertenecientes a esta etnia. El objeto de diseño, el “awayu”, se fundamenta en que sea el elemento representativo de su cultura y la mujer como la principal sostenedora del patrimonio visual Aymara.

Expone el estudio de implementación de medios para la acreditación de un laboratorio textil con el fin de desarrollar adecuadamente los métodos de ensayo planteados por el laboratorio, brindando veracidad en los resultados presentados a sus clientes. Se utiliza como guía de estandarización la norma ISO 17025:2005, la cual ayudará a crear el soporte para la acreditación del laboratorio textil en el adecuado desarrollo de los métodos de ensayo de control de calidad textil y confecciones. / Tesis

Busca mejorar la productividad de la unidad de desarrollo de producto en una empresa textil. Para ello se implementó una metodología basada en el análisis, diagnóstico y propuestas de mejora para lograr mejores indicadores de productividad. En la parte inicial del trabajo se explican los conceptos de las principales herramientas de Lean Manufacturing, luego se delimita el caso de estudio al grupo 5, esto como consecuencia del análisis de los tiempos de ciclo y la identificación de los desperdicios a lo largo del proceso productivo del grupo, siendo el grupo 5 el proceso con la capacidad más restrictiva. Luego de delimitar el estudio, se realizó el diagnóstico utilizando el diagrama de actividades para conocer el proceso de desarrollo de muestra y la matriz AMEF (Análisis de Modo y Efecto de Fallos) para conocer los niveles de riesgo más altos. En el análisis realizado se identificaron los principales problemas detectados en el AMEF actual, los cuales fueron falta de orden y limpieza en el área y el alto índice de horas paradas de máquina. Es por esa razón que se propuso implementar herramienta de Lean Manufacturing como solución a estos problemas, las cuales son la implementación de la metodología 5S y la metodología TPM (Mantenimiento Productivo Total) La correcta implementación de las herramientas de manufactura esbelta logró un aumento en los tres indicadores que involucran el OEE (Eficacia Global de los XII Equipos). El primer indicador es el incremento de la disponibilidad de las maquinas en 8% provocado por la reducción del tiempo de setup (configuración) y del tiempo de reparación de las máquinas. Otro indicador que impacta en el beneficio es el rendimiento de las líneas de confección, aumentando en 7% debido al alza del tiempo bruto de producción. Por último, la tasa de calidad obtiene un crecimiento de 12% como consecuencia de la reducción de productos defectuosos. Estos tres indicadores logran un incremento del OEE de 21%. Otros beneficios son el incremento de la capacidad productiva, ahorro de horas hombres, incremento del área de trabajo y motivación del personal. / Tesis

Identifica y describe los diseños, patrones de vestido y pintura facial de las miniaturas textiles masculinas y femeninas. Destaca la poderosa presencia del cabello y las diversas formas de sus tocados resaltando su importancia social y simbólica tanto como las formas y tamaño de las cabezas que representan además, la tercera parte del cuerpo. Demuestra que las miniaturas están íntegramente tejidas y revestidas – de cabeza a pies –, así como los tocados y accesorios que lucen o sujetan con las manos. Son una unidad textil que concentra en un volumen reducido de materia, diversas soluciones técnicas y estéticas de la sociedad Chancay. Esta unidad reúne y sintetiza una sólida y milenaria tradición textil así como la unión equilibrada entre técnica y estética. Evidencia las correspondencias entre la composición de la pintura facial de las miniaturas femeninas y el diseño de sus aksus. Destacar por otro lado, el tratamiento, importancia y capacidad de transformación que operaron e imprimieron sobre el cuerpo los hombres y mujeres Chancay y que se manifiestan en las miniaturas. / Tesis

Forensic fiber examination is an important part of trace evidence analysis. Fibers may be recovered from a crime scene that could link a particular suspect to the scene. Clothing fibers are most frequently encountered but automobile carpeting fibers may also be recovered. An understanding of the frequency of occurrence and the discrimination power of different analytical techniques is needed in order to better establish the evidentiary value of automobile carpet fiber evidence. Seventy-five automobile carpet fiber samples were analyzed using a series of techniques ranging from nondestructive to destructive. These techniques included polarized light microscopy, fluorescence microscopy, microspectrophotometry, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy, microtomy (cross section analysis), dye extraction and liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry. Based on the information obtained from these techniques an overall discrimination of 98.02% was calculated. Only 55 of 2775 pairwise comparisons were indistinguishable. The information was subsequently entered into a searchable database for general public use.