Syftet med den här studien är att undersöka kvinnliga modeintresserade konsumenters medvetenhet kring greenwashing i relation till miljömärkningar inom klädindustrin. Vidare syftar studien till att undersöka hur kvinnliga modeintresserade konsumenter uppfattar ett plaggs hållbarhet utifrån miljömärkningar inom klädindustrin. För att besvara studiens syfte har en kvalitativ metod använts där insamling av empiriskt material genomfördes med hjälp av semistrukturerade intervjuer. Baserat på ett antal kriterier valdes tio modeintresserade kvinnor ut till att delta i intervjuerna som genomfördes via Zoom. Studiens resultat påvisar bristande kunskap om begreppet greenwashing vilket tyder på att respondenterna därmed inte är medvetna om greenwashing i relation till miljömärkningar inom klädindustrin. Vidare resulterade studien även i att kvinnliga modeintresserade konsumenter till stor del uppfattar plagg märkta med miljömärkningar som hållbara. Däremot varierar konsumenternas uppfattning om pålitligheten av de olika märkningarna. Vår studie visar att ungefär lika stor andel respondenter uppfattar plagg märkta med certifierade miljömärkningar, såväl som icke-certifierade miljömärkningar, som mer pålitliga. Oavsett märkningens upplevda pålitlighet uppfattade alla respondenter, trots detta, att märkningen bidrog med en känsla av hållbarhet. / The purpose of this study is to examine the awareness of greenwashing in relation toenvironmental labels in the clothing industry, among female fashion-interested consumers.Furthermore, the study aims to investigate how female fashion-interested consumers perceivethe environmental sustainability of a garment based on environmental labels in the clothingindustry. To answer the purpose of this study, a qualitative method was used where thecollection of empirical data was carried out by semi-structured interviews. Based on anumber of criteria, ten fashion-interested women were chosen to participate in interviewsconducted via Zoom.The result of the study demonstrates a lack of knowledge regarding the term greenwashing,which indicates that the respondents also lack awareness of greenwashing in relation toenvironmental labels within the clothing industry. Furthermore, the study demonstrates thatfashion-interested consumers perceive environmental labelled clothing as sustainable.However, the perception of reliability of the various labels varies among the respondents. Ourresult indicates that about half of our respondents perceive environmental labels certified bythird parties as the most trustworthy. Whereas the other half of the respondents perceivenon-certified environmental labels as more reliable. Irrespective of the perceived reliability ofthe environmental label, all respondents agreed that the environmental label in some waycontributed to a feeling of sustainability. This thesis is written in Swedish.

Environmental labels on products and services have been increasingly significant in influencing consumer purchasing and represent a crucial communication of the environmental credentials of products and companies. Yet their importance to industrial designers, who are recognised as having significant influence over the environmental impact of products, is less known. The overall aim of this research project is to investigate factors affecting the implementation of UK environmental labels by in-house industrial designers in UK Small and Medium-sized Enterprises (SMEs). A review of the literature on industrial designers and environmental labels found that there was a gap in knowledge surrounding the factors affecting how and whether in-house industrial designers implement labels in their work, and what understanding they have. In response to the literature review a number of research questions were generated, which influenced the direction of this emergent, exploratory research. A Preliminary Study was set up to collect qualitative data from practicing industrial designers in UK SMEs on their recognition and use of environmental label schemes. A mock-up Resource was consequently developed that provided the information the Preliminary Study participants claimed to need. During the Main Study the Resource was used as an elicitation tool to further probe designers' understanding and use of labels. Subsequently, three Case Studies were conducted with UK SMEs who have implemented labels on their products, to identify elements of best practice. The in-house SME designers in the study appeared to have knowledge of environmental label types and schemes. Both this and designers' position within their companies especially in terms of their input on design briefs moderates their ability to implement labels. The cooperation and contribution of colleagues is also significant to the effective application including driving their use and being willing to include them in the product development process from early stages to impact on success or effectiveness. It is suggested that a whole company approach is needed. This thesis provides an original contribution to knowledge on in-house designers' capability to implement labels; understanding of designers' current knowledge and use of labels; and the role of designers in all SMEs, not just those engaged in ecodesign or using environmental labels.

The production of food has increased over time due to modern agriculture methods. However, thisincrease has partly occurred at the expense of environmental and human health. There are severalenvironmental labels for food products, both at national and international levels, that try to create amore environmentally and socially sustainable agriculture by going beyond current legislation. Thisinvestigation is based on an analysis of rules connected to coffee, cacao and coconut oil for theenvironmental labels: EU Organic, Fairtrade, KRAV, Rainforest Alliance and UTZ. The purpose is toinvestigate if these environmental labels have rules that can contribute to an agricultural system withinthe planetary boundaries and also fulfill social conditions for a basic standard of living. The analysisof rules has been done based on the planetary boundaries and social conditions from the doughnuteconomics model. The five environmental labels have rules that can contribute to a more sustainableagriculture in different ways, but none of them cover all the planetary boundaries and socialconditions. Nor can they assure that none of the planetary boundaries won’t be exceeded since no oneknows exactly where the thresholds are. The environmental labels can be combined since they, tosome extent, have rules for different areas. Today, several combinations of environmental labels existon coffee, cocoa and coconut oil. The combination that occurs most often based on a sample in Coopsonline store is: EU Organic, Fairtrade and KRAV. This is not the combination that covers the greatestnumber of planetary boundaries and social conditions based on the result of this study, but it coversthe most problematic environmental and social aspects connected to production of coffee, cocoa andcoconut oil. / Produktionen av mat har ökat till följd av det moderna jordbrukets metoder, men denna ökning har iflera fall skett på bekostnad av miljö och mänsklig hälsa. Både nationellt och internationellt finns ettflertal miljömärkningar för livsmedel som driver på utvecklingen av ett mer miljömässigt och socialthållbart jordbruk genom att gå längre än nuvarande lagstiftning. Denna undersökning baseras på engenomgång av miljömärkningarna: EU ekologiskt, Fairtrade, KRAV, Rainforest Alliance och UTZregler kopplat till kaffe, kakao och kokosolja. Syftet är att undersöka om miljömärkningar har reglersom kan bidra till ett jordbruk som håller sig inom de planetära gränserna samtidigt som socialavillkor för en grundläggande levnadsstandard uppfylls. Regelgenomgången har gjorts utifrån deplanetära gränserna och sociala villkoren i donutekonomin. De fem miljömärkningarna har regler sompå olika sätt kan bidra till ett mer hållbart jordbruk men ingen av dem har regler som beaktar allaplanetära gränser och sociala villkor. Miljömärkningarna kan inte heller säkerställa att de planetäragränserna inte kommer att överskridas då ingen vet exakt var gränserna går. Eftersommiljömärkningarna delvis har regler för olika områden kan de med fördel kombineras. Olikakombinationer av miljömärkningar förekommer på kaffe, kakao och kokosolja idag, den kombinationsom förekommer mest utifrån ett stickprov i Coops e-handel är: EU ekologiskt, Fairtrade och KRAV.Denna kombination täcker inte in flest planetära gränser och sociala villkor utifrån resultatet i dennaundersökning men kombinationen har regler som berör de mest problematiska miljömässiga ochsociala aspekterna kopplat till odling av kaffe, kakao och kokosolja. / <p>2021-06-04</p>

Submitted by Luciana Ferreira (lucgeral@gmail.com) on 2015-10-27T13:11:38Z No. of bitstreams: 2 Tese - Hugo Leonnardo Gomides do Couto - 2015.pdf: 10217216 bytes, checksum: e3a3e2c7ac3b785a2aae25ebc789747a (MD5) license_rdf: 23148 bytes, checksum: 9da0b6dfac957114c6a7714714b86306 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Luciana Ferreira (lucgeral@gmail.com) on 2015-10-27T13:13:23Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 2 Tese - Hugo Leonnardo Gomides do Couto - 2015.pdf: 10217216 bytes, checksum: e3a3e2c7ac3b785a2aae25ebc789747a (MD5) license_rdf: 23148 bytes, checksum: 9da0b6dfac957114c6a7714714b86306 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2015-10-27T13:13:23Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 2 Tese - Hugo Leonnardo Gomides do Couto - 2015.pdf: 10217216 bytes, checksum: e3a3e2c7ac3b785a2aae25ebc789747a (MD5) license_rdf: 23148 bytes, checksum: 9da0b6dfac957114c6a7714714b86306 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2015-03-27 / Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de Goiás - FAPEG / The purpose of this study... / O presente estudo….

Corporate sustainability comes in a variety of shapes and the boundaries defining what can be called sustainability are disputed. This thesis explores the making of sustainability at a medium-sized company in Sweden, in this study called HygieneTech, that actively works with sustainability. Inspired by theories from science and technology studies (STS), the author discusses how different versions of sustainability are created in practices. The study is based on a theoretical approach, actor network theory (ANT), which understands reality as performed rather than observed, and since reality and its objects are enacted differently in diverse situations, reality and objects are considered multiple. Moreover, inspired by Maria Puig de la Bellacasa, “thinking with care” enables the study to tell new stories about how companies work with sustainability. This view of the actors as doing sustainability through care practice in a corporate setting paves the way for a caring analysis, exploring the different versions of sustainability as different matters of care. The enactment of sustainability is studied through participant observation, interviews and document studies. The most frequently enacted versions of sustainability are sustainability as saving resources, sustainability through standards/labels, sustainability as caring for people, and sustainability as a conscious choice. The study shows how some versions of sustainability in one setting can clash, such as when the employees at HygieneTech have to decide between caring for saving resources or caring for labelled products. Even so, in other settings versions of sustainability can be added together and thus enable the employees to care for sustainability both as a marketing device and as a conscious choice. Furthermore, the thesis shows that sustainability is sometimes made absent in relation to other matters of care, such as cleanliness and economy, while in other settings economy and sustainability can be added together. Finally, the thesis shows how sustainability, while enacted in several versions, still can cohere though professional tinkering. / Hur företag arbetar med hållbarhetsfrågor kan se väldigt olika ut och många gånger uppstår stridigheter kring vad som får kallas hållbart. Denna avhandling studerar hur hållbarhet iscensätts i ett medelstort företag i Sverige som arbetar aktivt med hållbarhetsfrågor. Företaget är i denna studie anonymiserat och kallas HygieneTech. Genom att använda teorier från studier av teknik och vetenskap (STS) studeras hur olika versioner av hållbarhet skapas i olika praktiker. Studien utgår från ett teoretiskt angreppssätt, aktör-nätverksteori (ANT), som genom en symmetrisk analys studerar såväl materiella som mänskliga aktörer. ANT anser att verkligheten och dess objekt görs snarare än upplevs och eftersom verkligheten iscensätts på olika sätt i olika situationer, är verkligheten och objekten multipla. Genom att studera hållbarhet som omsorgspraktiker, inspirerad av Maria Puig de la Bellacasa, skriv nya typer av historier kring hållarbetsarbete på företag. Att tänka med omsorg (”thinking with care”) ger forskaren möjlighet att istället för att återberätta den traditionellt återkommande historien om företaget som en vinstmaximerande rationell agent, lägga fokus inte bara på rationalitet, utan även affektion. Hur hållbarhet görs i praktiken studeras genom deltagande observationer, intervjuer samt dokumentstudier. Denna avhandling visar på att det finns ett flertal olika versioner av hållbarhet som iscensätts vilka ofta är sammanknutna i varandra. Några av de viktigaste versionerna av hållbarhet i HygieneTech handlar om hållbarhet genom att spara resurser, hållbarhet genom märkningar/standarder, hållbarhet genom omsorg om människor och hållbarhet som ett medvetet val. Vissa av dessa versioner kan adderas samman, men i andra situationer ställs de mot varandra. Studien diskuterar även exempel på när hållbarhet görs osynligt på grund av att andra värden såsom renlighet och ekonomi istället sätts i fokus, samt hur hållbarhet trots sina olika versioner hålls samman.

政府採購向來金額龐大，以民國 103 年為例，該年度機關辦理逾 10 萬元之採購決標總金額為 1 兆 1367 億餘元，同年度中央政府總預算歲出合計為 1 兆 9162 億餘元，政府採購金額約為總預算歲出的 60%，故就政府採購所制定之法規範具有實務上之重要性。復因政府之採購金額龐大，政府之採購偏好足以影響經濟運作與競爭秩序，因此各國政府經常藉以達成特定政策目標。 　　我國政府採購法第 96 條訂有採購環境保護產品之特別規定，環境保護在國家政策中、甚至國際社會中向來為重要議題，民國 90 年起，行政院核定實施之「機關綠色採購推動方案」、國家永續發展委員會提出之「台灣二十一世紀議程國家永續發展願景與策略綱領」和「永續發展政策綱領」等政策方案，都希望藉由政府採購達成環境保護的目標，我國簽屬之「政府採購協定」（Agreement on Government Procurement）亦於 2012 年修訂環境保護相關條款，然而我國政府採購「環保」之成效卻十分有限，同樣以民國 103 年為例，該年政府採購納入環境考量之比例，約僅為政府採購總金額的 0.5%、總預算歲出的 0.3%。因此，本論文嘗試探討我國政府採購納入環境考量之現行法規，是否符合憲法誡命、或是否存有更佳的立法方式，以回應國內政策的需求、並善盡國際義務。 　　本論文以憲法就環境保護和經濟秩序之規定探討為始，界定立法者具體化相關法令規定之立法形成界限，復以此為前理解，檢視現行規範是否妥適，初步認為政府採購法第 96 條之相關子法，有不當限縮環境保護範圍之嫌，因而手段不足以落實國家對環境的保護義務，可能係實務上納入環境考量比例不足的原因之一；因此以綠色政府採購（Green Public Procurement）成效顯著、且為「政府採購協定」修訂環境保護相關條款之原始提案國──即歐洲聯盟為研究對象，探討其政府採購法制設計，作為我國法制修正之參考。 　　本論文參酌歐洲聯盟採購法制，認為我國應放寬政府採購納入環境考量的範圍、增加可資運用之手段、於採購時計算產品生命週期費用並妥適運用環境標誌與宣告，進而提出初步修法解決之框架建議，以期環境保護能夠確切、妥適地於政府採購中落實。 / Government procurement has been constantly adopted as a policy tool in many countries for its profound effect on a nation’s economic performance and market competition. Legislation concerning government procurement becomes therefore important. According to Article 96 of Taiwan’s Government Procurement Act and other related regulations, procuring entities subjected to those provisions may provide preference to environmentally friendly products. Furthermore, as the Agreement on Government Procurement (GPA) was revised and come into force in 2014, it suggested that environment protection can be promoted via government procurement. As a consequence, the Executive Yuan formulated several policies to enhance environmentally friendly procurement. Nevertheless, such policies were not as effective as expected. Official statistics show that as government procurement value accounted for 60% of annual expenditures in 2014, the adoption and promotion of environment protection in that value merely accounted for 0.5%. Recognizing the problem, the thesis raises two questions: Is current legislation concerning environment protection in government procurement in accordance with the Constitution? Is there any better way to legislate? To begin with, the thesis first discusses the Constitution’s stipulation of environment protection and economic system to figure out the limit of legislative discretion. Secondly, by reviewing current legislation based on such limit, the thesis finds that neither the definition of “environment protection” nor the methods of priority procurement are appropriate. The thesis hence concludes that such inappropriateness of current legislation may be one of the reasons why those policies did not work out. Last but not least, the thesis has done a comparative study on government procurement legislation of the European Union (EU) to see how legislation in Taiwan may improve. While it is the first party to propose to amend the GPA by adding environment protection into the provisions, EU has also achieved remarkably in “Green Public Procurement” (GPP). In conclusion, the thesis has the following legislative suggestions: First, redefine “environment protection” in the Government Procurement Act and other related regulations. Second, add additional ways in current legislation for procuring entities to better adopt and promote of environment protection in government procurement, including using life-cycle costing and eco-labels.