The aim of this thesis is to explore the development of Swedish fashion between 1930 and 1960 by examining the textile and clothing industry from the wider perspective of fashion production. It was during this period that Sweden was transformed into a leading industrial nation, which laid the foundation for increased prosperity in the post-war period. This historical and empirical study is predominantly based on systematic analysis of Swedish official statistics and close reading of the fashion press. The thesis applies a combination of approaches in the analytical chapters (chapter 2–4) that include three central aspects of fashion production: manufacturing, symbolic production, and the production of a national fashion.  Chapter 2 gives an account of the industrial production of clothing and examines the scope, size and structure of the textile and clothing industry. The results confirm its importance to the Swedish economy in the period. One important finding shows that a shift in production from tailored outerwear to lighter garments occurred as early as the mid-1950s.  Chapter 3 investigates the symbolic production of fashion by looking at the structure of the field of fashion in Sweden. The results show a French dominance where couturiers were celebrated as creative ‘artists’. A significant finding is how the idea of Swedish fashion was considered a process of creating economic value, as in clothing manufacturing.  Chapter 4 deals with fashion as an expression of national culture. The result reveals a significant fashion culture associated with an everyday wear fashion that followed the Social Democratic reforms aimed at equality in society during the period. One important finding is that the wool coat was the hallmark of Swedish fashion identity in the post-war period.  These results contribute to a broader understanding of fashion production and new insights into the history of its developments in Sweden between 1930 and 1960, which has gone largely unrecognised by previous fashion historians.

Understanding fashion and dress is frequently dictated by the sense of sight and the social fact of visibility. This thesis aims to explore the phenomenon of non-visual fashion and dress with a particular focus on visually impaired people and their bodies as a site of knowledge production. While previous studies of the relationship between body and dress have examined how the sighted body is fashioned, the present small-scale and socio-sensorial study attempts to fathom how fashion and dress become perceivable in haptic, audial, and olfactory terms. This thesis engages thoughtfully with the visually impaired and their feelings related to the present-day field of fashion and dress, building on a Bourdieusan framework of habitus and embodiment applied to fashion studies. Employing qualitative interviews conducted among visually impaired women in Finland, this thesis gives voice to the people meagrely represented in the literature on fashion and dress. Furthermore, while acknowledging the empirically grounded non-visual dimension, this thesis adheres to previous contributions of revaluing the plurality of epistemologies and discourses vis-à-vis fashion, dress, and the body.

Submitted by admin tede (tede@pucgoias.edu.br) on 2017-10-02T14:18:54Z No. of bitstreams: 1 CARLA LOUREIRO MIGUEL.pdf: 964855 bytes, checksum: 6616e8f7c99078e2a6c72141143400a1 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2017-10-02T14:18:54Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 CARLA LOUREIRO MIGUEL.pdf: 964855 bytes, checksum: 6616e8f7c99078e2a6c72141143400a1 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2003-08-01 / The relationship that young student workers establish with fashion in clothes is discussed, given that there is a field (of fashion) with all its specificities and strategies which constructs values and belief in its goods. Both the classified and classifying goods as well as the hierarchical and hierarchizing goods create a cultural necessity and legitimize the dominant culture. This study is based on Bourdieu’s theory of practice. It analyses the meaning of family, school and work for these young workers when drawing up their values and choices (habitus), and recognizes in the type of work that they carry out (domestic help and sales women), the fundamental structure in the formation of their likes, their life style, and, especially, of the meaning that fashion in clothes acquires, depending on the place in the social strata where they find themselves. / Discute-se a relação que jovens estudantes trabalhadoras estabelecem com a modavestimenta, sendo que existe um campo (da moda) com suas especificidades e estratégias construindo valores e a crença em seus bens. Bens classificados e classificantes, hierarquizados e hierarquizantes, criando a necessidade cultural e legitimando a cultura dominante. Fundamenta- se na teoria da prática de Bourdieu. Esse trabalho analisa o significado da família, da escola e do trabalho para essas jovens na construção de seus valores e escolhas (habitus), reconhecendo no tipo de ocupação (domésticas e vendedoras) que exercitam, a estrutura fundamental na formação do gosto, do estilo de vida e, principalmente o sentido que a modavestimenta adquire, a partir da posição que se encontram no espaço social.