The purpose of this paper is to present a case study of a union organizational campaign among a group of women garment workers. The union that conducted the organizing drive was the International Ladies' Garment Worker's Union. The employees involved in the campaign were employed by the Russell-Newman Manufacturing Company in the North Texas community of Denton.

In 2013, the Rana Plaza Complex in Bangladesh collapsed claiming the lives of 1134 RMGworkers. This event ignited foreign stakeholders applying pressure on factories within the sectorto uphold adequete safety measures and address concerns over labour rights. The ILO and EUhave since conducted surveys and forwarded recommendations toward what they considerpositive change, in a comittment to improve labour rights and factory safety. (Ashraf & Prentice2019) Prior to this devasting event, women’s rights organisations/movements have and continueto actively challenge cultural and traditional norms in an effort to address issues of social injusticewithin the sector and in society in general. These grievances range from harassment, long hours,fairer wage distribution and equal rights. Currently, 86% of the workforce in Bangladesh workswithin the industry, comprising mostly of women and (children) and is its largest exporter toforeign cloths brands in the West. An estimated 4 million people contribute to this labour forceand since the emergence of the industry in the 1980’s, women have faced various disparities.Women workers have faced conditions which have subjected her to unequal premises and beingless privilaged. An essential part of this inquiry is discussing conceptions of womanhood,empowerment and of gender and class.This DP examines how the Accord, OWDEB and NGWF engage, address and advocate change,together with their representatives. All three stakeholders are striving for positive change withinthe sector, each with a specific focus on areas of concern. This inquiry foremost examines thepush for change.

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Conventional pattern construction and pattern making methods typically require the size measurements of a range of standard mannequins or human bodies in order to construct the varying pattern blocks for garment design. These various methods and skills, in the fashion industry, factory or studio are performed by pattern makers or producers, and are refined through the garment sampling and wearer trial system (an uneconomical trial and error) used on woven garments or on woven stretch garments to produce varying garment designs. This is particularly true when fabric stretch and recovery properties and values are encountered. There is a strong alliance with the heuristic knowledge. The aim of the present work is to investigate the influence of woven stretch fabric properties on pattern construction. The stretch and recovery properties of woven stretch fabrics will be taken account for pattern reduction and alteration for the development of a suitable garment pattern to fit the body shape and to meet the comfort requirement during the body movement. The relationship between the degree of alteration and reduction and the relevant fabric stretch properties is to be established. In this thesis, the stretch and recovery properties of various woven stretch fabrics have been measured. The conventional pattern is reduced and altered based on the comfort requirement for body movement, fit to body shape and the extension and recovery properties of the woven stretch fabric. Wearer trial test of the altered garment pattern of woven stretch fabrics is carried out for subjective and objective evaluation in the reference of the traditional woven garment pattern. Their comfort and garment appearances are evaluated by a panel of judges and the wearer. The size and shape stability of garments after the wearing tests are assessed. The results demonstrated that the new pattern method was significantly better for woven stretch fabric. The garment pattern for fit and comfort can be predicated and produced according to the extension and recovery properties of fabrics.

Realistic human models are widely used in variety of applications. Much research has been carried out on improving realism of virtual humans from various aspects, such as body shapes, hair, and facial expressions and so on. In most occasions, these virtual humans need to wear garments. However, it is time-consuming and tedious to dress a human model using current software packages [Maya2004]. Several methods for dressing virtual humans have been proposed recently [Bourguignon2001, Turquin2004, Turquin2007 and Wang2003B]. The method proposed by Bourguignon et al [Bourguignon2001] can only generate 3D garment contour instead of 3D surface. The method presented by Turquin et al. [Turquin2004, Turquin2007] could generate various kinds of garments from sketches but their garments followed the shape of the body and the side of a garment looked not convincing because of using simple linear interpolation. The method proposed by Wang et al. [Wang2003B] lacked interactivity from users, so users had very limited control on the garment shape.This thesis proposes a framework for dressing virtual humans to obtain convincing dressing results, which overcomes problems existing in previous papers mentioned above by using nonlinear interpolation, level set-based shape modification, feature constraints and so on. Human models used in this thesis are reconstructed from real human body data obtained using a body scanning system. Semantic information is then extracted from human models to assist in generation of 3 dimensional (3D) garments. The proposed framework allows users to dress virtual humans using garment patterns and sketches. The proposed dressing method is based on semantic virtual humans. A semantic human model is a human body with semantic information represented by certain of structure and body features. The semantic human body is reconstructed from body scanned data from a real human body. After segmenting the human model into six parts some key features are extracted. These key features are used as constraints for garment construction.Simple 3D garment patterns are generated using the techniques of sweep and offset. To dress a virtual human, users just choose a garment pattern, which is put on the human body at the default position with a default size automatically. Users are allowed to change simple parameters to specify some sizes of a garment by sketching the desired position on the human body.To enable users to dress virtual humans by their own design styles in an intuitive way, this thesis proposes an approach for garment generation from user-drawn sketches. Users can directly draw sketches around reconstructed human bodies and then generates 3D garments based on user-drawn strokes. Some techniques for generating 3D garments and dressing virtual humans are proposed. The specific focus of the research lies in generation of 3D geometric garments, garment shape modification, local shape modification, garment surface processing and decoration creation. A sketch-based interface has been developed allowing users to draw garment contour representing the front-view shape of a garment, and the system can generate a 3D geometric garment surface accordingly. To improve realism of a garment surface, this thesis presents three methods as follows. Firstly, the procedure of garment vertices generation takes key body features as constraints. Secondly, an optimisation algorithm is carried out after generation of garment vertices to optimise positions of garment vertices. Finally, some mesh processing schemes are applied to further process the garment surface. Then, an elaborate 3D geometric garment surface can be obtained through this series of processing. Finally, this thesis proposes some modification and editing methods. The user-drawn sketches are processed into spline curves, which allow users to modify the existing garment shape by dragging the control points into desired positions. This makes it easy for users to obtain a more satisfactory garment shape compared with the existing one. Three decoration tools including a 3D pen, a brush and an embroidery tool, are provided letting users decorate the garment surface by adding some small 3D details such as brand names, symbols and so on. The prototype of the framework is developed using Microsoft Visual Studio C++,OpenGL and GPU programming.

This research is in terms of the multi-national corporation (MNCs) that is to understand the investment and the overall arrangement of the world, Hong Kong, and Taiwan¡¦s garment marketing in Mainland China. Furthermore, to go deep into how the transnational garment will impact on the China government. Due to the debut of China-US textiles trade war issue in 2005, now we are about to analyze the triangle relationships among the transnational garment and Sino-America governments in textile trade negotiation, so to the Chinese government¡¦s textile industrial policies and development goal under the competition and changing of the international garment marketing after entering WTO. At the mean time, this paper studies in quota system of garment, and also assess to the argument of abolishing quota system from WTO recently. Hence to analyze the internal and external factors such like the negotiation to the garment and textile¡¦s quota between China and US government in 2005. With those international and domestic factors eventually predicts the impact on transnational garment.

Abstract Prints and artwork in fashion are often made separately from the body and garment, processed through digital media and printed with mechanized precision. Far from the dynamic experience a painting can offer. This work elaborates how to build a collection of garments based on the body, using interactive methods. Its purpose and context is to find another print aesthetic in garment through abstract painting and cutting. In regard to the craft I hope to preserve the hands involvement as part of the expression. Suggesting another way to do prints in fashion that allow a more intimate relationship between body, fabric and color. This work explores the body-fabric relation through abstract painting to develop another print aesthetic and way of doing print. Hanging rectangular pieces of fabric over my head and energetically painting the fabric against the body results in an abstract approximation of the body-fabric relation. This approximation is analyzed by cutting and draping in regard to the painting and study of directions through lines. This method has generated a static approximation of the body-fabric relation which can be used as a tool for composing colors.

Looking at defining factors of garment, means to look at garments that has the possibility to be reduced to a extent and would still be seen as a specific garment. So, which garments are we so familiar with, both visually and the meaning, to the extent that we only need a small amount of information in order to recognise and understand it? This work investigates defining factors in garments that would be enough to describe and recognise a certain type of garment. The aim of this work is to explore the use of details as a way to define a garment and to question our learnt knowledge and presumption of what we refer to as a certain type of garment. The work is built on the objectification of a garment and is explored through the methods of abstraction and reduction. The result from this investigation consists of physical examles and conclusions in regards to the approached methods and knowledge about archetypal garments. What is presentend in this thesis, is nine examples of how one could describe a garment. Not what is the right way, but an alternative of combinations and the use of details as a refernce to the original garment we have knowledge about.