During flight missions, fighter pilots are in general exposed to vast amounts of stress including mild hypoxia, vibrations, high accelerations, and thermal discomfort. It is interesting to predict potential risks with a certain mission or flight case due to these stresses to increase safety for fighter pilots. The most predominant risk is typically thermal discomfort which can lead to serious health concerns. Extensive exposure to high or low temperature in combination with a demanding work situation weakens the physical and mental state of the pilot and can eventually lead to life-threatening conditions. One method to estimate the physical and mental state of a person is to measure the body core temperature. The body core temperature cannot be measured continuously during flight and needs to be estimated by using for instance a human thermoregulatory model. In this study, a model of the human thermoregulatory system and the cockpit environment is developed. Current thermoregulatory models are not customized for fighter pilots but a model developed by Fiala et al. in 2001, which has previously shown good performance in both cold and warm environments as well as for various activation levels for the studied person, is used as a theoretical foundation. Clothing layers are implemented in the model corresponding to clothes used by pilots in the Swedish air force flying the fighter aircraft Gripen E in warm outside conditions. Cooling garments and air conditioning systems as well as avionics, canopy, and cockpit air are included in the model to get a realistic description of the cockpit environment. Input to the model is a flight case containing data with altitude and velocity of the fighter during a mission. human heat transfer; body temperature regulation; physiological model;cooling garment; cockpit modeling

Contemporary dance and modern ballet often focus on conveying emotions through patterns of movement which may be abstract, obvious, or anywhere in between, as supported by music, sound, or spoken words that set the mood. Scenography is typically sparse or confined to the available space, leaving the dancers as the main instrument of communication. This work explores choreography and costume design, with a focus on how garments can inform and direct movement, choreography, and performance, and in turn how movement may inform and contribute to the development of dynamic garments. Through a series of live experiments, ranging from self-instigated performance/video work in collaboration with choreographers and dancers to performances of garment interaction associated with everyday life, the performative, spatial, and interactive properties of garments are explored. The results of these live experiments relate to various aspects of choreography, scenography, and performance space, and offer wide-ranging creative potential. The work shows how designers and choreographers can collaborate on performance scenarios within the context of modern ballet and contemporary dance productions, thus creating conceptual garments that influence the design, choreography, and manipulation of conceptual garments. In relation to the act of dressing and undressing, previously unseen types of garment and ways of wearing and performing were found. New models of collaborative interaction are proposed. This work has demonstrated how the agency of garments can function as a manuscript in modern dance, and how performance itself redefines the notion of wearing and the concept of garments.

A comparative examination of the original and reproduction Gone With the Wind costumes at the Harry Ransom Center is at the heart of this study, which proposes to trace the relationship between the analogue original costume, the replica garment, and the digital image reproduction. A discussion of definitions of authenticity and “the original” within such areas as conservation, film studies, and audience perception explores the questions: what is the role of the reproduction, and can it challenge the authority and “aura” of the original? This inquiry illustrates that authenticity is negotiated; it is not always fixed in a clear line ranging from “the real thing” on one side to “the copy” on the other. The study concludes with examining digital image reproductions of costume. The online digital database record can potentially reveal more than a face-to-face encounter with the object in a gallery space, illuminating the biography and history of the garment, changes in curatorial decisions and exhibition practice, and the experience of tactility and embodiment. / text

In 2013 around 289,000 women died from what was categorised as maternal complications. This figure is likely to be higher as only 40% of the world has an adequately function health reporting system (WHO et al 2014, p.1). Severe bleeding causes around 27% of all maternal deaths; this is the single biggest threat to pregnancy and childbirth. Moreover, maternal complications are the second biggest cause of death for women of reproductive age globally. The risks women and girls face through pregnancy and childbirth are the outcome of socio-cultural structures and norms, which increase the inequalities in many societies. The decisions we make, the choices we have, and the actions we carry out are a product of our social system’s structures and norms. Humanitarian crises painfully display the divisiveness and destruction that these structures and norms can have on the members of that system. But, crises also offer an opportunity to either, rebuild structures and norms in a way that reduces inequality and protects the vulnerable, or a regression to more traditional, more patriarchal and more hierarchical structures and norms which will ultimately disadvantage women and girls further in their plight for equality. There is a vicious circle of poverty and mortality that can be triggered by maternal death. In order to prevent these cycles from continuing, creative, simple and appropriate strategies need to be developed for humanitarian response that build on the knowledge systems and capacities of those affected, as well as the experience and expertise of practitioners. Instead of a discussion between development or humanitarian, the conversation should try to find ways for all interventions to be more homophilious with those affected and ensure that they do not worsen the structures protecting the most vulnerable. Innovation has long since been seen as a process for those who ‘have’, and not for those who ‘have not’. Criticisms of increasing inequality through a division based on socio-economic markers have only led to self-fulfilling stereotypes of who is innovative and who is not. This research is trying to shift the focus from one that is divisive to a more inclusionary approach. To address maternal mortality caused by severe bleeding, it is imperative to understand the context in which it is happening. Who is affected? Why? What do they think and believe? What happens to the family, the community? How are the structures and norms of the society affecting it? What solutions have been offered? In answering these questions it is clear how far the impact of maternal mortality can reach. It is the hope of this research, that its can be used to reduce and lessen this impact through better-targeted and tailored responses using appropriate tools – such as the non-pneumatic anti-shock garment, implemented in a mind frame of sustainability and resilience in an environment receptive to innovation. There is a need for fresh ideas and approaches to reduce a burden that does not exist in resource stable parts of the world, and a burden that has come to be seen as a problem of the poor. The non-pneumatic anti-shock garment is a game changer. It has the potential to inspire interest and access health systems, yet implementation thus far has been limited in humanitarian response. This research investigates maternal mortality caused by postpartum haemorrhage in humanitarian crises, in an endeavour to improve the discussion on including the NASG into the MISP as an appropriate tool to fight maternal mortality and the inequality that is found at its root.

By using a pragmatic paradigm, different research methodologies were employed in this thesis. MS-related symptoms may be exaggerated due to heatsensitivity and it is supposed that cooling garments relieve the symptoms. The effects of wearing a Rehband® vest were evaluated in a sample of 42 persons with MS in a randomised controlled crossover study. Both objective and subjective statistically significant improvements were found when a cooled Rehband® vest was worn compared to the wearing of a room-tempered vest. Using a repeated-measures design, 10m and 30m timed walks and Timed Up and Go were studied in 42 persons with MS. Reproducibility was investigated within and between test points. High reproducibility was found both within (r=0.97–0.98) and between measure points (r=0.91–0.93). The correlation between the three tests was high (r=0.85). Differences at –23% to +40% were established as being needed to detect genuine changes. Severity of MS infl uenced the size of the differences, especially for the 30m timed walk test. The 12-item MS Walking Scale was translated and used in a cross-sectional study. Out of 81 persons with MS, 89–96% perceived limitations in standing or walking. The internal consistency of the scale was acceptable for nine items (0.69–0.84). The concurrent validity between the 12-item MS Walking Scale and the investigated objective tests was low: Berg Balance Scale (r=–0.368**), Four Square Step Test (r=0.338**) and Timed Up and Gocognitive (r=0.319*). A prevalence of falling was found at 63% in a longitudinal cohort study with prospectively registered falls including 76 persons with MS. The odds of falling were fi ve fold when there was a reported need of using a walking aid indoors and outdoors and by 2.5 to 15.6 times while there was disturbed proprioception, depending on severity. The highest sensitivity was found for the Berg Balance Scale (94%) and the highest specifi city was found for the 12-item MS Walking Scale (82%). Positive predictive values at 70–83% were found for the Berg Balance Scale, Timed Up and Gocognitive, the Four Square Step Test and the 12-item MS Walking Scale. Finally, we explored and described factors that persons with MS perceive as related to accidental falls. A content analysis with a deductive approach was chosen. By conducting interviews, we found previously untargeted factors: divided attention, reduced muscular endurance, fatigue and heat-sensitivity. The content of the interviews also gave support to previously reported risk factors such as changes in gait pattern, walking disability, impaired proprioception and vision, and spasticity.

Purpose - The purpose of this paper is to identify the possibilities for a garment producing country, with high supplier and buyer dependency, to implement a yarn-forward value chain. Design/methodology/approach - This study analyzes existing literature along with collected data conducted through a field study in Vietnam. Primary data was collected through interviews with actors within the Vietnamese garment industry. Findings - What has been concluded through this case research is that monetary investments, relationships, and education of employees are dimensions that seem to be foundational in building a yarn-forward value chain successfully. Research limitations/implications - This study is limited to a specific case, only focusing on Vietnam's textile industry, meaning that the identified factors needed for establishing a yarn- forward value chain may differ depending on each country's native capabilities and access to raw materials. Practical implication - The findings of this study may contribute to an increased understanding of the surrounding factors regarding the implementation of yarn-forward production in a garment producing country. Originality/value - This study contributes to a deeper insight in what factors that affects a country’s garment industry and how a more competitive position can be created on the global textile market by taking these factors into consideration.

Corporate colonial behaviour of fashion companies has left the Rana Plaza in ruins and paved the garment industry with catastrophic deaths, casualties, and hypocrisies. As a consequence, the industry is being scrutinized, especially the cheap brands. This paper is an examination of the sustainability of clothes in relation to price and an exploration of the differences between price segments. Quantitative data in the form of price and country of manufacture of 173 t-shirts from different brands were collected and analysed by using the Sustainable Society Index. The results indicate that the social sustainability level of the country of manufacture accounts for roughly 20% of the differences in t-shirt prices. Clothes made in more socially sustainable countries indeed tend to have higher prices. However, the difference in social sustainability is not significant between the high-priced and the luxury segments. Environmental and economic sustainability have little influence on clothing prices. The limitations and implications of assessing product sustainability through the lens of the country of manufacture are addressed.

O processo migratório de bolivianos para São Paulo com inserção em oficinas de costura existe desde a década de 1990, com uma alta participação de mulheres que trabalham como costureiras assim como os homens. O objetivo deste texto é caraterizar as relações de trabalho na costura em relação com as condições de formação dessa migração, além de caracterizar a inserção particular de mulheres nas oficinas e o seu papel no processo migratório. Para isso, realizamos entrevistas de profundidade com bolivianos costureiros e trabalhos de campo nos espaços de emprego e moradia de migrantes e seus familiares em São Paulo, Buenos Aires, La Paz e El Alto. Como as oficinas de costura se apresentam como lugar de moradia dos migrantes, a reprodução doméstica e familiar é uma dimensão fundamental das oficinas e do processo migratório como um todo, assim como o trabalho. As mulheres são as principais responsáveis pelas atividades de cozinha e limpeza, ao mesmo tempo em que estão contraditoriamente inseridas na esfera do trabalho. A migração boliviana para São Paulo se sustenta, assim, sobre arranjos particulares de trabalho e de reprodução. / The Bolivian migratory process to São Paulo related to garment industry sweatshops begun in the early 1990s, with a wide participation of women working as seamstresses alongside the men. The aim of this text is to characterize labor relations in the sweatshops, regarding the conditions that formed this migration, as well as to characterize the particular insertion of women in the sweatshops and their role in the migratory process. The research included in-depth interviews with Bolivian sweatshop workers and fieldwork in São Paulo, Buenos Aires, La Paz and El Alto. As the sweatshops also offer housing to the migrants, domestic and familiar reproduction is a fundamental dimension of the sweatshops and the migratory process as a whole, as well as the labor. Women are mainly responsible for cooking and cleaning activities, while they are contradictory inserted in the labor sphere. The Bolivian migration to São Paulo is supported by particular arrangements of labor and reproduction.

Essa dissertação analisa e demonstra fatores que afetam a cadeia têxtil e confeccionista, através de um mapeamento do panorama que os respectivos setores apresentam principalmente aqueles relativos à gestão e governança corporativa. Para adquirir dados empíricos o projeto contempla o desenvolvimento de uma pesquisa bibliográfica possibilitando a constatação de dados e avaliação de aspectos sobre o perfil do contexto atual desse segmento usando informações que comprovam os meios que levam a degradação do ramo, principalmente fatores que contemplem a governança corporativa como estrutura solucionadora para o quadro apresentado, foco central desta dissertação. A pesquisa visou obter dados qualitativos e quantitativos através de: a) caracterização do universo cultural de gestão das empresas têxteis e confeccionistas; b) fatores políticos que prejudicam a cadeia têxtil e confeccionista; c) identificação da visão dos diferentes tipos de consumidor sobre o nicho têxtil e confeccionista. d) a influência externa no mercado têxtil confeccionista; e) mapeamento de dados e identificação dos fatores relevantes da cadeia completa; f) apresentação de fatores globais que identifiquem os focos mais relevantes, de forma a compreender o momento dos setores associados. Com os resultados obtidos, foi evidenciado o uso da governança corporativa e a implementação de meios sustentáveis como meios de restabelecer e vigorar a competitividade do mercado interno e projetar melhores enfrentamentos perante a concorrência internacional, notadamente de países asiáticos, que são umas das grandes razões do atual panorama que esse setor enfrenta. / This dissertation analyzes and demonstrates factors that affect the textile and clothing manufacturer chain, through an overview of mapping the respective sectors have particularly those relating to management and corporate governance. To acquire empirical data the project includes the development of a literature enabling data verification and evaluation aspects of the profile of the current context of this segment using information that prove the means that lead to degradation of the branch, especially factors that include corporate governance as solver framework for the overview of the segment, central focus of this dissertation. The research aimed to obtain qualitative and quantitative data through: a) characterization of the cultural universe of management of textiles and clothing manufacturers companies; b) political factors that affect the textile and clothing manufacturer chain; c) Identification of view of different types of consumers about the textile and clothing manufacturer niche. d) the external influence on the clothing manufacturer textile market; e) data mapping and identification of the relevant factors of the complete chain; f) presentation of global factors that identify the most relevant focuses, in order to understand the timing of associated sectors. With the results, it was evident the use of corporate governance and the implementation of sustainable media as a means of restoring force and the competitiveness of the internal market and design better clashes in the international competition, especially from Asian countries, which are one of the biggest reasons of the current situation that the sector faces.

This report deals with the definition and meaning of garment. It explores how the meaning of a garment alters depending on how it is worn. Is the meaning of an garment somhow in the garment itself? By searching for new expressions in clothing by eliminat- ing parts and giving other a new purpose, the aim is to explore the aesthetic potential that occurs when two garment’s are incorporated. This is dealt with through a method that discusses the definition of an artefact. From a minimalistic point of view the es- sence of garments is explored through revealing what is underneath and exemplifying how the garments interact or affect each other. Through experiments I studied how to incorporate two garments in an natural and unforced manner. To find perfect balance in imbalance. As a conclution of my work i discovered that to create balance between two garments was to use the details discreatly and to focus on the small things. However I realised that the “perfect“ balance was not the aim i was striving for. Questions that has been discussed is how much does a garment need to be recognisable and how much does a detail need to be visable. As a method I see this as the starting point and there is more to be explored and developed. / Program: Modedesignutbildningen