Denna kandidatuppsats undersöker överdelsplagg och den förflyttning de gör i förhållande till kroppen i rörelse. För att kunna utveckla plagg med smarta funktioner med sensorer eller aktivatorer vars uppgift är att avläsa eller stimulera en specifik punkt på kroppen, är det viktigt att förstå hur plaggets förflyttas i förhållande i kroppen i rörelse. I det syftet utfördes denna studie genom att frivilliga testpersoner skannades i 3D scanner med ett testplagg med markeringar för avmätningar i olika positioner. Positioner som undersöktes i studien var baserade på det rörelsemönstret som är observerat i vardagslivet i Sverige. Studien avsåg även att se över om förflyttningen har olika karaktär för storlekar. Både män och kvinnor deltog i studien i storlekarna S, M och L. Den största förflyttningen skedde vid lyft av båda armarna över huvudet. Det gick även att observera skillnader i förflyttningen mellan de olika storlekarna. Det finns ett behov att uppmärksamma dessa förflyttningar för konstruktion av plagg med sensorer och aktivatorer. / This bachelor thesis is exploring how upperbody garments and the movement the garment does in relation to the body in movement. To be able to develop garments with smart technology with sensors and activators, which jobs are to read or stimulate a specific point of the body, it is important to understand the displacement of the garment when the body moves. In purpose of this, this study is performed by having people volunteer for 3D body scanning wearing a test garment with markers for measurements in different postures. The postures that were examined was based on the pattern of movement that was observed in the daily life in Sweden. The study aimed to see how the displacements changes in different sizes. Both men and women took part in this study in the sizes S, M and L. The biggest displacement was in the posture where the participants lifted their hands above their heads. It was possible to observe differences in the displacement between the sizes. There is a need to observe these movements to be able to make constructions suitable for garments with sensors and activators.

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This thesis describes a practice-based research project that explores the relationship between textile and fashion systems through whole-garment weaving. In the current state of the textile and fashion industry, these are mostly based on two separate systems where the textile industry merely functions as an invisible backbone of the fashion industry. The structure of the weave, the jacquard patterns, the yarns and colours have the ability to link the textile to the garment, materialising the interdependency of the two. Hybrid forms of dressing is based on a series of experiments related to the components of jacquard weaving, local yarns and weaving constructions in a layering system, to gain an understanding of their relationship in the process of garment creation. This project aims to contribute to creating an equal balance between textile and fashion systems, working in a simultaneous design approach and opening up for discussion on this matter.

Readymade garment (RMG) sector is the most common and prospective form of business among microfinance sector in the world. the macro-economic performance of Bangladesh is hugely dependent on its (RMG) manufacturing sector. it has a great contribution on employment, woman empowerment and GDP that creates a great influence on global economy. it is not only the Scandinavians who have faith in Bangladesh for sourcing different types of garments, but other the big giants like USA have facilitated Bangladeshi RMG sector. But there are some restraints that lying behind Bangladesh's RMG sectors success. Such as- unskilled garment workers, infrastructure, political instability, unhealthy environment, low wage etc. Many researchers have study on these issues, but a few look at the organisational and leadership factors that influence sustainable RMG sector. This paper shows the strength and weakness of the industry and finds the solution to gain sustainability in the sector. The study is conducted under the case-oriented Research (COR) design.

This research aims to identify the key factors influencing consumer behaviour and decision-making in relation to sustainable garment brands, aiming to understand why consumers do or do not switch to these brands.  Age significantly influences consumer switching behaviour towards sustainable brands, with younger generations being more likely to adopt these brands. While sustainability awareness does not significantly affect consumer loyalty, it negatively affects their willingness to switch products. Raising awareness of sustainable practices is crucial for decision-making and brand loyalty, making eco-conscious consumers less likely to switch brands.

Le corps humain et les vêtements sont toujours en interaction directe avec l’environnement, le corps devant maintenir sa température à environ 37°C. Les transferts de chaleur sont affectés non seulement par les propriétés de l’étoffe constitutives du vêtement, mais également par l’épaisseur de la couche d’air entre le corps et le vêtement. Les propriétés thermiques de la couche d’air dépendent de son étendue, influencée par les courbures du corps humain, des propriétés mécaniques de l’étoffe et de la forme du vêtement. Il est donc nécessaire de déterminer la forme 3D du corps et la répartition, l’étendue et l’épaisseur de la couche d’air ainsi que les zones de contact entre la peau et le vêtement dans des conditions posturales de la vie courante. Dans la présente étude, l’influence thermique de couches d’air homogènes (épaisseur constante) et hétérogènes (épaisseur variable) a été montrée. De plus, la distribution des couches d’air et de l’aire de contact réelle a été analysée minutieusement. L’influence des conditions posturales (à l’aide d’un mannequin) et du mouvement (à l’aide d’un logiciel de simulation de mouvement) a été étudiée dans différents cas. Une méthode de post-traitement des données provenant du logiciel de simulation 3D de mouvement a alors été mise au point. Les résultats montrent que le niveau de confort peut être ajusté en sélectionnant l’étoffe et la forme du vêtement et que cela dépend de la région du corps. La connaissance issue de cette étude sera directement utilisée en modélisation des transferts de chaleur au travers des vêtements et contribue à l’amélioration de la conception des vêtements pour la protection ou la pratique sportive. / In real life, human body and clothing are always in direct interaction with environment, where human body attempts to keep its core temperature constant at around 37 °C by physiological thermoregulatory processes. The heat transfer from the wearer’s body to the environment is affected not only by the fabric properties but also by the presence of air layers and the contact between body and garment. The thermal properties of air layer are related to its size, which in turn, depends on the form of the wearer’s body, mechanical properties of fabric and garment design. Therefore, it is necessary to determine the three dimensional (3D) map and the quantitatively determination of air layers and contact area on the garment in real life situations, such as for various body postures and movement. In the present study, a comparison of the thermal effect of the heterogeneous and homogeneous air layers was sought. Additionally, the distribution of air layers and the contact area for lower body garments were analysed systematically. The effect of various body posture and movement on sought parameters was investigated. Moreover, new method was introduced to post-process the sought parameters for the ready output from 3D simulation software. Consequently, the results of this study indicated that the comfort level of the human body can be adjusted by selection of fabric type and the design of ease allowances in the garment depending on the body region and given purpose. The knowledge gained in this study will be directly used in modelling of the dry and latent heat transfer through garment and contribute to the improvement of clothing design for protective and active sport garments.

Abstract In the Lower East Side of New York City from 1909 through 1911 a fight for change was taking place. Jewish immigrant girls put their safety on the line and brought attention to the abuse taking place in factories across the country. They first spoke out and led the Ladies' Garment Worker strike bringing attention to their cause. But it was ultimately their untimely deaths in one of the most tragic workplace disasters ever in history that finally spurred the country to action in passing new fire safety and child labor laws. Historical Fiction, Immigration Story, 1911, Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire, Ladies Garment Worker Strike, 1909

Uppsatsen beskriver vidareutveckling av en längdskidåkningsjacka till en värmande, mer multi- funktionell jacka med avslappnad passform, i samarbete med ett svenskt konfektionsföretag specialiserat på längdskidåkning. I uppdraget ingick att undersöka hur användningsområdet kan breddas utan att jackans funktion vid längdskidåkning försämras. En kravspecifikation utformades med hänsyn till synpunkter från utövare och återförsäljare samt produktionsmässiga förutsättningar. Arbetsprocessen dokumenterades och förankrades i vetenskaplig litteratur och resultatet validerades genom framtagning av en herrjacka som möter de framtagna kriterierna. Ett funktionellt plagg måste framför allt ha riktigt bra passform och komfort; specialiserade finesser kan bli störningsmoment för den som inte behöver dem. Funktionskläder för sport, träning och friluftsliv måste ofta uppfylla höga och motsägelsefulla krav; det kan krävas extrem rörelsefrihet, hög slitstyrka men låg vikt, väderskydd men effektiv ventilation under intensiv ansträngning. Högpulsaktivitet i vinterklimat ställer särskilda krav på klädsystemets temperaturreglerings- förmåga och rörelsefrihet; båda är avgörande för såväl komfort som prestation. Litteratur- översikten behandlar därför termisk och ergonomisk komfort, mönsterkonstruktion för rörlighet, passformsutvärdering, och beräkning av viddtillägg. Jag diskuterar även behoven av konstruktionsunderlag applicerbara på funktionsplagg, systematisering av passforms- utvärdering, och preciserad terminologi. Idag krävs ofta många prototyper för att uppnå god passform, komfort och funktionalitet; denna tidskrävande och kostsamma process bör kunna effektiviseras genom dokumentation och metodstandardisering. / This bachelor’s thesis describes the development of a cross-country skiing jacket for a Swedish niche brand. The assignment required investigation of possibilities to diversify the garment’s usage range while maintaining functionality for the original target group. The concept is a warm, multifunctional men’s jacket in a relaxed fit, complementing the present collection. Market research and literature studies were used to clarify user needs, retailer requests and production constraints. Functional requirements for sportswear are tough and often contradictory: high durability at low weight, weatherproof yet breathable. It is essential, both for comfort and performance, that clothing systems for high intensity activities in cold climate have outstanding thermoregulatory properties and mobility; literature on thermal and ergonomic comfort, patternmaking for mobility, fit evaluation and garment ease is reviewed. The results were validated through the production of a sample garment, while striving to document the process methodically. Numerous samples are usually required to achieve good fit, comfort and functionality; this process tends to be especially time-consuming and costly for quality functional clothing. Benefits of consistent documentation and standardized methods are discussed, as well as the lack of precise terminology and of patternmaking texts applicable to functional garments, systematization of fitting, and fit evaluation.

El objetivo de la presente tesis es identificar los factores que influyen positivamente en el desarrollo exportador de las pequeñas y medianas empresas (PYMES) del sector textil y confecciones en Lima. Esto con el fin de conocer las diferencias entre las PYMES exportadoras y las que no exportan. El estudio del sector se delimita en las subpartidas 6109100031 (t-shirt de algodón para hombre o mujer) y 6109100039 (los demás "t-shirts" de algodón, para hombres o mujeres) ya que el sector es muy amplio y diverso. La investigación tiene un enfoque cuantitativo con una muestra de 35 PYMES exportadoras y 48 PYMES no exportadoras en la cual se aplica un estudio concluyente y descriptivo para responder el objetivo planteado. Además, tiene un enfoque no experimental por el estudio de la situación actual del sector y un estudio transversal en el cual se aplica una encuesta a la muestra detallada. La investigación se basa en la información incluida en el Global Entrepreneurship Monitor (GEM) en su reporte para Perú en 2016-2017. Dicho estudio menciona que las PYMES se internacionalizan dentro de los primeros cinco años de creación. No obstante, solo el 1.5% de estas empresas tienen clientes potenciales en el extranjero. Asimismo, los resultados de la encuesta aplicada en el presente estudio y GEM Perú 2016-2017 comprueban que variables como las características del empresario, factores internos de la empresa y características del sector influyen positivamente en el desarrollo exportador de las PYMES en Lima Metropolitana. / The purpose of this thesis is to identify the factors that positively influence the export development of small and medium enterprises (SMEs) in the textile and garment sector in Lima. This is to know the differences between exporting SMEs and those that do not export. The study of the sector is limited to subheadings 6109100031 (cotton shirt for men or women) and 6109100039 (the other cotton "shirts" for men and women) since the sector is very broad and diverse. The research has a quantitative approach with a sample of 35 exporting SMEs and 48 non-exporting SMEs in which a conclusive and descriptive study is applied to meet the set of objectives. In addition, it has a non-experimental approach when studying the current situation of the sector and a cross-sectional study in which a survey is applied to the detailed sample. The study is based on the information included in the Global Entrepreneurship Monitor (GEM) in its report for Peru in 2016-2017. This study mentions that SMEs are internationalized within the first five years of creation; however, only 1.5% of these companies have potential clients abroad. Likewise, the results of the survey applied in the present study and GEM Peru 2016-2017 verify that variables such as the characteristics of the entrepreneur, the internal factors of the company and the characteristics of the sector have a positive influence on the export development of SMEs in Metropolitan Lima / Tesis