Organisationer verkar i en värld med ständig övervakning och kontroll från omgivningens högt ställda normer och förväntningar. Företagens arbete med hållbar utveckling är inte längre en frivillighet om de ska överleva i den konkurrensinriktade och lätt utbytbara affärsmiljön. Det krävs att organisationer uppvisar sitt samhällsansvar där de fokuserar på frågor som berörhållbarhetsarbetets alla funktionsdelar för att bli accepterade av såväl interna som externa intressenter. Som ett resultat av arbetet med samhällsansvar och hållbar utveckling har frågor som berör legitimitet uppkommit. I nutidens allt mer öppna och transparenta samhälle blir det lättare för omvärlden att ta del av organisationernas hållbarhetsarbete. Frågor som berör mänskliga rättigheter haruppmärksammats och klädbranschens smutsiga baksida har fått stora rubriker i media. Sömmerskor och fabriksarbetare i utvecklingsländer är skaparna till många av de plagg vi köper i Sverige men vad får de egentligen utstå för att vi ska kunna köpa stilmedvetna och billiga klädesplagg? Vi har därmed valt att inrikta oss på den sociala hållbarheten för att lyfta frågor som berör mänskliga rättigheter inom klädbranschen med tre svenska modeföretag som utgångspunkt. Syftet med studien är att undersöka hur klädjättarna H&M, KappAhl och MQ arbetar medbeprövade legitimitetsstrategier i sina hållbarhetsredovisningar för att kunna svara på om hållbarhetsredovisningen blivit till ett legitimitetsverktyg hos modeföretagen. Vidare kommer fokus även ligga på att diskutera hur företagen återspeglar arbetet med social hållbarhet i sinarapporter för att kunna sätta det i relation till den information media berör gällande socialhållbarhet hos respektive företag. Studiens resultat visar på att samtliga tre företag använder legitimitetsstrategier som är gynnsamma för att kunna vända negativa händelser till att förmedla en positiv bild av verksamheten. Den sociala hållbarheten är framtagen på liknande sätt men företagets storlek spelar en avgörande roll för i vilken utsträckning kategorierna prioriteras hos företagen. Det går dessutom att urskilja en tydlig skillnad mellan företagens hållbarhetsrapporter och den bild media förmedlar om företagens sociala hållbarhetsarbete. / Organizations operate in a world where they are constantly being monitored by the high standards and expectations from their surroundings. Their work with sustainable development is no longer a voluntary activity if they are to survive in the competitive business environment. Organizations are required to show their social responsibility where they focus on issues that affect all parts of sustainability work in order to be accepted by both internal and external stakeholders. Companies are expected not only to take responsibility for environmental, social and economic issues but also to explain how they work with these areas. Today's society is more open and transparent which makes it easier for the outside world to take part in the organizations sustainability work. Issues concerning human rights have received attention and the filthy backside of the garment industry has received major headlines in the media. The factory workers in developing countries are the creators of many of the garments we buy in Sweden but how much do they really have to suffer in order for us to be able to buy style conscious and cheap clothing? We have therefore chosen to focus on social sustainability to raise issues that concern human rights in the garment industry with three Swedish fashion companies as our starting point. The purpose of the study is to examine how the clothing giants H&M, KappAhl and MQ are working with proven legitimacy strategies in their sustainability reports in order to be able to find the answer if the sustainability report has become a tool for legitimacy. Furthermore the focus will also be on discussing how the companies reflect their work with social sustainability in their reports and put it in relation to the information the media publishes regarding social sustainability. The study's results show that all three companies use legitimacy strategies that are advantageous by being able to turn negative events into a positive picture of the business. Social sustainability has been developed in a similar way but the size of the company plays a crucial role in the extent to which the companies prioritize the categories. It is also possible to distinguish a clear difference between the companies sustainability reports and the image that media shows about the companies social sustainability work. This study is written in Swedish.

Submitted by Maicon Juliano Schmidt (maicons) on 2015-06-09T13:55:36Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Clarissa Nascimento Lourenci.pdf: 4283828 bytes, checksum: fbc08a57ca4e60d1ee3a99644588f31d (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2015-06-09T13:55:36Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Clarissa Nascimento Lourenci.pdf: 4283828 bytes, checksum: fbc08a57ca4e60d1ee3a99644588f31d (MD5) Previous issue date: 2015-03-26 / UNISINOS - Universidade do Vale do Rio dos Sinos / A ligação entre práticas de consumo e a negociação de identidade é um tópico bastante conhecido e estudado na pesquisa do consumidor (JANTZEN; OSTERGAARD; VIEIRA, 2006). Segundo Thompson e Hirschman (1995), o consumo é uma importante fonte de definição daquilo que cada pessoa entende ou deseja ser, com base em imagens e estilos transmitidos através das posses. Dentre as diversas ferramentas utilizadas pelos indivíduos no caminho de construção do self, o vestuário se apresenta como uma das possibilidades. Kaiser (1990) sustenta que o consumo de roupas e moda ocupa um papel importante na construção da identidade e individualidade de uma pessoa. A forma de se vestir assume, assim, a função de passar mensagens de valores pessoais e preferências estéticas do indivíduo, fazendo com que este seja aceito pelos demais (KAISER, 1990). Este estudo utiliza as lentes teóricas da construção de identidade para analisar um contexto bastante interessante e que apresenta números curiosos na atualidade: a imigração de mulheres latino-americanas em países estrangeiros, com um foco de investigação na França. O objetivo da pesquisa realizada foi compreender de que forma essas pessoas utilizam o consumo de vestuário como meio de negociação de suas identidades femininas. Para isso, um estudo qualitativo apoiado em uma abordagem interpretativa foi desenhado. Quinze mulheres latino-americanas e três francesas participaram de etapas de entrevistas em profundidade e projetivas para a obtenção dos resultados. Ao final de um longo processo de análise de relatos, sustentado por um robusto alicerce teórico, foi possível observar que essas mulheres negociam suas identidades através da utilização de vestuários que misturam o novo a seus valores de origem. Ou seja, elas adotam elementos, de certa forma, diferentes dos que costumavam usar, sem deixarem, contudo, de utilizar aquilo que está alinhado com suas essências e valores. Assim, é possível identificar uma coerência central em suas escolhas, que não é anulada devido ao meio, mas sim adaptada. / The link between consumer practices and negotiation of identity is a topic well known and studied in consumer research (JANTZEN; OSTERGAARD; VIEIRA, 2006). According to Thompson and Hirschman (1995), consumption is an important source of definition of what each person understands or wants to be, based on images and styles transmitted through possessions. Among the various tools used by individuals for the self construction, clothing is presented as one of the possibilities. Kaiser (1990) argues that the consumption of garment and fashion occupies an important role in the construction of identity and individuality of a person. The way of dressing assumes the function of passing messages of personal values and aesthetic preferences of the individual, causing his acceptance by the others (KAISER, 1990). This study uses the theoretical lenses of identity construction to analyse a rather interesting context which presents curious numbers today: the immigration of latin women in foreign countries, with a focus of investigation in France. The objective of the research was to understand how these people use garment consumption as a means of negotiating their feminine identities. For this, a qualitative study based on an interpretive approach was designed. Fifteen latin american women and three french participated in stages of in-depth and projective interviews for obtaining the results. At the end of a long process of report analysis, supported by a robust theoretical foundation, it was possible to observe that these women negotiate their identities through the use of garments which blend the new to their original values. In other words, they adopt elements, in a way, different from the ones they used to use, but still aligned with their values and essences. Thus, it is possible to identify a central coherence in their choices, which is not cancelled due to the context, but rather adapted.

This text will take you on a journey to the Far East – Bangladesh to be more specific. Inspring 2008 I went there to find some answers to the question of wages. I wanted to know if achange in focus from minimum wages to living wages could be achievable. The question willunfortunately remain unsolved at the end of the essay. To predict the future would beimpossible. Instead three possible scenarios are presented. The likelihood of each and everyscenario is later discussed. The conclusions at the end of the essay are based on an analysis ofthe theories presented and the interviews proceeded.The starting point for the research is the relocation strategies of corporations, which areoutlined in the background chapter. This chapter also contains information about the garmentindustry in Bangladesh. The main research question is if there can be a shift from minimumwages to living wages in Bangladesh. In order to bring clarity to the question, three subquestions have been used. The first question looks into how wages are determined in theexport-oriented garment industry in Bangladesh. The second question concerns thecorporations’ responsibility for their workers. The third, and last, question addresses howcultural dimensions influence the corporations and how wages are set. To find the answers tothe sub questions I divided the research into four main topics: “Wages – Minimum and LivingWages”, “Morality, Ethics and Business Ethics”, “Employees as Stakeholders of theCompanies” and “The Cultural Dimension”. The topics are dealt with in separate chapters.The chapters contain a theoretical overview, as well as the information gathered from theinterviews.The chapters are followed by a further analysis of the empirical findings. The chapter onwages contains an in-depth explanation of the difference between minimum wages and livingwages. In the conducted study all workers were paid the minimum wage in coherence with thelaw. This wage was however much lower than what the definition of a living wage declares.Therefore many workers did over-time in order to reach a higher standard of living. Businessethics and the stakeholder theory will be used to discuss the opportunities and limitations ofthe responsibility of the corporations for their workers. The scholar Hofstede’s system ofmeasuring national cultural values will be used to look into specific cultural aspects.According to his system, Bangladesh has a high ranking in power distance, a low ranking inindividualism and a middle ranking in masculinity. These three dimensions will be discussed;both correlations and exceptions found in this study will be presented.The three possible scenarios for a change are presented in the conclusions. Firstly, theminimum wages could be changed into living wages, if the government decides on raising thewages of the garment workers. Secondly, the mentality amongst management could provide asolution to the change in focus. If managers could find advantages in paying their workersmore, it would open up for a brand new wage system. Thirdly, changes could come from theworkers themselves, through unification in the regard. This has however been valued as lesslikely to happen, because of the power distance prevailing in the country. / Program: Textilekonomutbildningen

Esta dissertação tem por objetivo tratar do problema de encaixe de moldes da indústria do vestuário. O problema consiste no encaixe bidimensional de itens pequenos (moldes), que possuem formas irregulares, dentro de um material que será cortado, que possui forma retangular com largura fixa e comprimento variável. O principal objetivo do encaixe é minimizar o desperdício do material que será cortado, neste caso, o tecido. Para tratar o problema do encaixe bidimensional de moldes propõe-se, a partir do desenvolvimento de uma técnica de encaixe, um protótipo funcional.A concepção da técnica foi realizada com as informações obtidas nas etapas de coleta de dados: dados indiretos (Fundamentação Teórica) e dados diretos (Observações Diretas e Entrevistas com especialistas no encaixe manual). Os dados obtidos nessas etapas e, principalmente, a triangulação dos mesmos, permitiram o desenvolvimento da técnica de encaixe de moldes, que consiste em três partes: representação gráfica do tecido e dos moldes, critérios de ordenamento e construção do layout. A técnica proposta está implementada no protótipo funcional Riscare através da linguagem Delphi. Para construir a interface do Riscare, realiza-se uma avaliação da usabilidade de um software comercial com a mesma função. Os conceitos avaliados auxiliaram no desenvolvimento da interface do Riscare. A criação do protótipo funcional possibilitou a comparação da técnica proposta para o encaixe de moldes com encaixes realizados manualmente, com um software comercial e com problemas considerados benchmarks da literatura. Na maioria dos testes comparativos realizados, o Riscare obteve resultados com rendimentos superiores. Os resultados alcançados mostram a qualidade da técnica proposta e, consequentemente, do protótipo funcional desenvolvido. / The objective of this work is to deal with pattern fitting problem in garment industry. The problem is two-dimensional fitting of small items (patterns) that have irregular shapes, within a material to be cut, which has a rectangular shape with fixed width and variable length. The main purpose of fitting is to minimize the material waste, in this case the fabric to be cut. To address the problem of two-dimensional pattern fitting, a functional prototype is proposed based on the fitting technique developed. The design technique is done with the information obtained in data collection: indirect data (theoretical basis) and direct data (observations and interviews with experts in manual fitting). Data obtained in data collection and its triangulation enabled the development of the pattern fitting technique, which consists of three parts: the graphical representation of the fabric and the pattern, the ranking criteria and layout construction. The proposed technique is implemented in Riscare functional prototype, developed using Delphi programming. An usability evaluation of a similar commercial software is performed to build the Riscare interface. The criteria evaluated helped the development of Riscare interface. The development of a functional prototype allows the comparison of the proposed technique for pattern fitting with fitting performed manually, with a commercial software and literature benchmark problems. In most comparative tests, the Riscare obtains results with higher yields. The results show the quality of the proposed technique and the functional prototype developed.

研究生從事成衣業二十載，目睹近年來成衣業遭遇困境、或歇業、或出走、或多角化經營，大大削減其在國際上之競爭力。本論文試圖研究成衣業之競爭優勢，並建立競爭力指標，尋找出指標間相對之重要性，以做為未來發展之模式。 本研究發現成衣業之競爭力有行銷能力、製造能力、研發能力、人事及組織能力，其相對權重分別為：0.315、0.275、0.258、0.152。其最重要者為行銷能力，依次為製造能力、研發能力、最後為人事及組織能力。而在行銷力方面，最重要者為品質、價格，其次為商情資訊蒐集反應顧客需求，掌握自主性國際行銷管道及提供多樣化商品能力。製造能力指標相對重要性為原料供應充裕及配合度最重要，快速反應交期短、生產高附加價值商品之能力少量多款之生產能力，自動縫製電腦輔助系統應用，先進製衣技術之應用較不重要。研發能力指標以開發新產品最重要，設計新產品次之，而管理資訊系統之開發較不重要。人事及組織能力指標相對重要性其差異不大，分別為設計行銷人員水準，人才培訓教育及合理化管理能力。 針對以上指標相對重要性比較台灣及大陸之競爭力，顯示台灣已喪失價格之競爭力，因此兩岸成衣業者應依據比較利益原則進行垂直分工，亦即台灣善用技術、人才、管理、設計能力、資金、行銷技巧的絕對優勢在台灣接單，在大陸加工，結合大陸廉價勞力、原料、優惠措施共同發展以創造彼此的最大利益。以上之先決條件必須是台灣繼續發展成衣業，致力於產業結構之調整及升級。

本研究主要目的是為探討台灣服飾產業，曾經在 60.70年代為台灣外銷出口創下佳績，同時也帶動上游紡織布業的發展，和設計新穎圖案的專業研發，以及印染業的技術突破，更甚至影響下游產生另一批輔料業者，大小廠家不下數萬家。 所謂輔料也就是成衣副料/零配件，但是隨著 80年代台灣經濟成長，薪資上漲，幣值的升值等因素，這些勞力密集的產業遂被中國大陸與東南亞、中亞、中南美、非洲等開發中國家逐漸取代，競爭力盡失。曾幾何時這些為台灣出口創匯立過汗馬功勞的尖兵們，如今多流落異地他鄉各自求生存。 台灣服裝輔料產業整個幾近空洞化，這個產業鏈可以從台北市的迪化街布市及永樂市場布匹批發市場現今的景氣窺知一二。從鼎盛時期到如今零星錯落，盛景不再令人唏噓。 本人身為服裝輔料行業其中一份子，深感此行業沒落。因此就以本公司PK實業為個案，營運三十多年來的心得想法，經歷過營運重心的遷徙轉換策略，尚得以殘存至今，同時經兩年來EMBA 課程的薰陶洗禮，遂有把數年來公司運作經驗與理論結合的念頭，從學術觀點探討下一步該有的經營策略與轉型升級。 / The main purpose of this study is to investigate Taiwan's fashion industry, once in the export of Taiwan's exports of 60.70 era a success, but also led the development of upstream textile fabrics industry, and design new patterns of professional development, and printing and dyeing industry, technological breakthroughs, more and even affect Downstream industry produces another batch of materials, size, no less than tens of thousands of manufacturers. The so－called clothing accessories that is material/spare parts, but with economic growth in Taiwan 80 era, wage inflation, currency appreciation, and other factors, these labor－intensive industries was considered by the Chinese mainland and Southeast Asia. Central Asia. Central America and South America. Africa ... and other developing countries, gradually replacing, competitiveness lost. Once upon a time they set off or Taiwan's export contribution of the pioneer who is now living on their native place more than their survival. Taiwan's garment industry, the near－emptying clothing accessories expected, the industry chain from Taipei City Tihua Street and Wing Lok fabric cloth wholesale market economy obvious visible in today. From its heyday to the present sporadic scattered, not spectacular Cause for regret. I expected as a garment industry in which Deputy member of deeply personal pain. therefore PK Industries of the Company as a case, thirty years of experience working the idea, the focus of migration experienced business transformation strategy, yet to be surviving so far, EMBA program by two years while the influence of baptism, then the company has put years of operating experience combined with the theoretical idea, the next step from the academic point of view of any business strategy and restructuring and upgrading.

<p>This study uses Actor – Network Theory as a lens to present a case study of the process by which Indiska Magasinet, a large Swedish retailer, has defined and developed its conceptualization of Corporate Social Responsibility. Actor – Network Theory offers a valuable tool to examine the inter-actor negotiations that precede a conceptualization of Corporate Social Responsibility. The study results are primarily based on interviews with two prominent Indiska personnel in decision-making positions. At the instigation of the writers, the Indiska personnel told stories about the company’s way of working with Corporate Social Responsibility. In doing so, they described four principle examples of how inter-actor negotiations resulted in significant developments in Indiska’s approach to Corporate Social Responsibility. Their stories also highlighted shared values and legitimacy as the main reasons that Indiska allows other actors to influence its conceptualization of Corporate Social Responsibility.</p>

This essay is investigating the increasing Swedish garment export during the period 1997-2003. Despite a long-lasting national production decrease and stronger global competition Swedish designed clothing are exported at higher rates than ever. The hypothesis that this increase is due to increased trade and changed production stage specialization is investigated. The theory used to investigate this is basic trade theory including Hecksher-Olin and New Trade theory with a focus on comparative advantage and specialization. This is completed with production theory that is particularly relevant for the garment industry: product and price competition, fashion cycles and vertical specialization. Trade, production and labor data is analyzed according to this and the main results are based on the unit price development: exports had a much higher growth in unit prices than imports. This is indicating that Sweden has a revealed comparative advantage in capital intensive production stages, a fact further supported by high education levels and high production value per worker. The industry has chosen to focus on product competition rather than price competition and has managed to shorten its product cycles in order to better exploit the fashion cycles. In some garment groups the image is more complex and one of the main theories of a design heavy garment such as jeans being the core of the success is revised. The export success is to a large extent due to an increasing specialization in the industry’s strong areas. / Den här uppsatsen undersöker tillväxten av Sveriges export i klädindustrin från 1997-2003. Trots att Sveriges klädproduktion har minskat i flera år och globalisationen tränger sig på så går svenska design plagg på högexport. Vår hypothes är att ökningen härstammar från ökad handel och specialisering i produktionsleden. Teorier vi har använt för att undersöka fenomenet är grundläggande handelsteorier så som Hecksher-Ohlin och New trade theory med fokus på komperativa fördelar och specalisation. Vi har valt att komplettera med produktions theorier som vi känner är relevanta för klädindustrin: produkt och pris konkurrens, mode cykler och vertikal specialisering. Handels-, produktions- och arbetskrafts- statistik har analyserats och huvudresultaten är baserade på utvecklingen av enhetspris: exporten har en högre tillväxt i enhetspris än importen. Detta indikerar att Sverige har en uppenbar komperativ fördel i de kapitalintensiva produktionsleden, detta bekräftas ytterligare genom höga utbildningsnivåer och en hög produktion per arbetare. Den svenska klädindustrin har valt att fokusera mer på produktkonkurrens än priskonkurrens, den har också lyckats med att minska sina produktions cykler för att unyttja marknaden bättre. I en del grupper är bilden mer komplex och en av våra huvudteorier var att jeans stod för stora delar av exportsuccen, denna teori fick vi dock avfärda. Vad vi kom fram till var att stora delar av exportsucceen kommer ifrån en ökning av specialiseringen.

This study uses Actor – Network Theory as a lens to present a case study of the process by which Indiska Magasinet, a large Swedish retailer, has defined and developed its conceptualization of Corporate Social Responsibility. Actor – Network Theory offers a valuable tool to examine the inter-actor negotiations that precede a conceptualization of Corporate Social Responsibility. The study results are primarily based on interviews with two prominent Indiska personnel in decision-making positions. At the instigation of the writers, the Indiska personnel told stories about the company’s way of working with Corporate Social Responsibility. In doing so, they described four principle examples of how inter-actor negotiations resulted in significant developments in Indiska’s approach to Corporate Social Responsibility. Their stories also highlighted shared values and legitimacy as the main reasons that Indiska allows other actors to influence its conceptualization of Corporate Social Responsibility.

This thesis analyzes class experiences of workers under flexible and precarious conditions of global neoliberal capitalism and tries to answer to what extent these conditions erode their capacities to develop antagonistic class consciousness and collective struggles. Specifically, based on a fieldwork consisting of semi-structured in-depth interviews with 24 workers living in slums of Istanbul, it deals with cultural analysis of working and daily-life experiences of workers involved in the global production of garments. Three categories of analysis are used: experiences of shame, time and necessity, which respectively suggest that, under conditions of precarity and flexibility, the workers, 1. perceive their class positions as personal and feel themselves inadequate, leading to questioning of self-worth, injuries in the self and individual - but not collective - emancipation attempts to escape from the injuring effects of class / 2. have lost not only their control over their present time through extremely long and irregular working hours / but also are ripped of their capacity to plan/organize their future / 3. live under the burden of continuous and persistent concern over necessities, which results in deep-seated sense of deprivation, impoverishment of life experiences, lack of meaning in this life, killing of hopes and consequentially experience of powerlessness. Yet, despite all these alienating experiences, there are also inchoate seeds of revolt and an alternative worldview, which confirms that class struggle exists even &ndash / and indeed (!) &ndash / in most severe conditions of alienation and will be decisive on the emancipatory dialectics of alienation / nonalienation and making / unmaking of class.