Esta pesquisa tem três objetivos centrais. O primeiro é compreender o fenômeno que foi denominado de migração da costura. Evidencia-se o funcionamento dos mecanismos de atração dessa força de trabalho transnacional, situados na dinâmica urbana da Região Metropolitana de São Paulo. Trata-se de perspectiva que retira os aspectos nacionais e étnicos para explicar o fluxo migratório que se insere na cidade através do trabalho na indústria de confecções. A hipótese defendida é que foi estabelecida uma afinidade eletiva entre as transformações ocorridas no setor, a partir da reestruturação produtiva, e o modo pelo qual se estrutura a migração transnacional circulante assentada no que se denominou de dispositivo oficina de costura. Esse dispositivo oferece as condições para a realização do projeto migratório: deslocamento, qualificação, trabalho, moradia e alimentação. O segundo objetivo repousa na compreensão das relações entre o dispositivo oficina de costura e a ideia de trabalho escravo. A proposta é rastrear o início do debate sobre o trabalho escravo da modalidade rural à urbana, tendo como referência os migrantes da costura e identificar tratados, marcos e leis nacionais e internacionais que incidem sobre essas populações. Em seguida, evidenciam-se algumas representações de migrantes sobre a temática. O último ponto propõe uma abordagem sobre o trabalho escravo a partir do caso da fiscalização da grife espanhola Zara. São examinadas as transformações da atuação dos agentes estatais no combate ao trabalho escravo: da repressão e criminalização à gestão do fluxo e da inserção dos migrantes na cidade, que ocorre a partir da mobilização de ONGs e de grandes empresas. Trata-se de compreender o trabalho escravo como aglutinador de uma série de políticas de inclusão, referidas no mercado, que buscam organizar esse mercado de trabalho, além de gerir o fluxo migratório. Abordam-se os limites e contradições dessas ações. A metodologia utilizada foi predominantemente qualitativa, baseada em pesquisa de campo, análise documental e entrevistas semiestruturadas. / This research has three main objectives. The first is to understand the garment workers migration. It analyzes the functioning of the sector that attracts this transnational workforce, located in the urban dynamic of Metropolitan Area of São Paulo. Our approach denies national and ethnic aspects to explain the migration flow that enters the city through the work in the garment industry. The hypothesis is that it was established an elective affinity between the changes in this industry, since the restructuring process, and the way in which is structured the transnational circulating migration, settled in what was called as the garment workshop dispositif. This dispositif provides the conditions for the realization of the migratory project: mobility, qualification, work, housing and nourishment. The second aim lies in understanding the relationship of the garment workshop dispositif with the idea of slave labour. The debate on slave labour is tracked from the rural to the urban mode, with reference to the garment workers migration. It is showed the treaties, national and international laws that concern these migrants. Then, some representations of these migrants about this subject are evidenced. The last aim shifts the understanding of slave labour. We put forward the Zara case, an inspection that identified slave labour in Zara´s chain production. We examine the transformations of the performance of state agents in the fight against slave labour: from repression and criminalization to the government of the flow and the incorporation of migrants with the mobilization of the large companies and NGOs. Slave labour is understood as agglutinating the various politics of inclusion, referred on the market, which seek to organize this labour market and govern the migration flow. This research seeks to highlight the limits and contradictions of these actions. The methodology used was largely qualitative, based on field research, documentary analysis and semi-structured interviews.

Purpose - The purpose of this study is to understand female consumers’ behaviour within online shopping, in order to identify which features within three chosen elements, common within the presentation of women’s tops, reduce mental intangibility and stimulate perceived value. Design/methodology/approach - A standard qualitative study approached through two methods of data collection; interviews and focus groups, from which specific patterns and concepts were identified during the development of conversations. Research limitations - This study is limited to female students from The Swedish School of Textiles. The research will focus on three visual variables common within the online presentation of women’s tops. Originality/Value - This study contributes knowledge to online apparel retailers, enabling them to optimise their website product display, thus increasing their competitive advantage. Our analysis of the chosen visual elements will contribute to a further understanding on how to reduce mental intangibility through visual communication. Additionally by acknowledging how to influence customers’ perceived value, online retailers will be able to trigger loyalty. / Program: Master Programme in Fashion Management

Esta pesquisa tem três objetivos centrais. O primeiro é compreender o fenômeno que foi denominado de migração da costura. Evidencia-se o funcionamento dos mecanismos de atração dessa força de trabalho transnacional, situados na dinâmica urbana da Região Metropolitana de São Paulo. Trata-se de perspectiva que retira os aspectos nacionais e étnicos para explicar o fluxo migratório que se insere na cidade através do trabalho na indústria de confecções. A hipótese defendida é que foi estabelecida uma afinidade eletiva entre as transformações ocorridas no setor, a partir da reestruturação produtiva, e o modo pelo qual se estrutura a migração transnacional circulante assentada no que se denominou de dispositivo oficina de costura. Esse dispositivo oferece as condições para a realização do projeto migratório: deslocamento, qualificação, trabalho, moradia e alimentação. O segundo objetivo repousa na compreensão das relações entre o dispositivo oficina de costura e a ideia de trabalho escravo. A proposta é rastrear o início do debate sobre o trabalho escravo da modalidade rural à urbana, tendo como referência os migrantes da costura e identificar tratados, marcos e leis nacionais e internacionais que incidem sobre essas populações. Em seguida, evidenciam-se algumas representações de migrantes sobre a temática. O último ponto propõe uma abordagem sobre o trabalho escravo a partir do caso da fiscalização da grife espanhola Zara. São examinadas as transformações da atuação dos agentes estatais no combate ao trabalho escravo: da repressão e criminalização à gestão do fluxo e da inserção dos migrantes na cidade, que ocorre a partir da mobilização de ONGs e de grandes empresas. Trata-se de compreender o trabalho escravo como aglutinador de uma série de políticas de inclusão, referidas no mercado, que buscam organizar esse mercado de trabalho, além de gerir o fluxo migratório. Abordam-se os limites e contradições dessas ações. A metodologia utilizada foi predominantemente qualitativa, baseada em pesquisa de campo, análise documental e entrevistas semiestruturadas. / This research has three main objectives. The first is to understand the garment workers migration. It analyzes the functioning of the sector that attracts this transnational workforce, located in the urban dynamic of Metropolitan Area of São Paulo. Our approach denies national and ethnic aspects to explain the migration flow that enters the city through the work in the garment industry. The hypothesis is that it was established an elective affinity between the changes in this industry, since the restructuring process, and the way in which is structured the transnational circulating migration, settled in what was called as the garment workshop dispositif. This dispositif provides the conditions for the realization of the migratory project: mobility, qualification, work, housing and nourishment. The second aim lies in understanding the relationship of the garment workshop dispositif with the idea of slave labour. The debate on slave labour is tracked from the rural to the urban mode, with reference to the garment workers migration. It is showed the treaties, national and international laws that concern these migrants. Then, some representations of these migrants about this subject are evidenced. The last aim shifts the understanding of slave labour. We put forward the Zara case, an inspection that identified slave labour in Zara´s chain production. We examine the transformations of the performance of state agents in the fight against slave labour: from repression and criminalization to the government of the flow and the incorporation of migrants with the mobilization of the large companies and NGOs. Slave labour is understood as agglutinating the various politics of inclusion, referred on the market, which seek to organize this labour market and govern the migration flow. This research seeks to highlight the limits and contradictions of these actions. The methodology used was largely qualitative, based on field research, documentary analysis and semi-structured interviews.

Many obstacles still exist toward improving safety standards, practices, and culture in the ready-made garment (RMG) industry in Bangladesh. Workers' beliefs and habits, employers' level of involvement, and gaps in the regulatory framework necessitate an examination of safety practices to build a foundation for safety culture in the workplace. The focus of this study was to contribute to regulatory reform aimed at creating a safe work environment by exploring the perceptions of workers, employers, and government regulators through the lens of the theory on reciprocal determinism. A total of 41 participants, categorized into three groups of workers, employers, and government regulators, consented to face-to-face interviews. The study provided individual and group perspectives of requirements for safe factories and development of safety culture. Interview data were inductively coded and subjected to a thematic analysis procedure. The results showed the groups collectively prioritized the need for training, collaboration, health, and safety, and they raised concern over civil unrest. The groups differed on the importance placed in areas such as protection of workers, profit, and legal enforcement. The study results can serve to contribute to effective government reform by developing self-efficacy of workers and improve collaboration between workers, employers, and government in the RMG industry of Bangladesh.

Denna kandidatuppsats utfördes i samarbete med designteam från två svenska konfektionsföretag och riktas mot designteknik inom ämnesområdet textilteknologi. Studien syftar främst till att undersöka likheter och skillnader mellan 3D-avprovning och fysisk avprovning och vilka eventuella fördelar eller risker som 3D-avprovningar i så fall kan medföra i produktutvecklingen. Studien undersöker även, via uppföljningsintervju, designteamens upplevelser av att analysera 3D-avprovningar. Tidigare studier visar att företag i konfektionsbranschen använder 3D-avprovningar som verktyg för att bland annat reducera ledtiden i produktutvecklingen, genom att inte vara bundna till fysiska avprovningar och prototyper. Även om 3D-användning gör tidsbesparing möjlig så har fysisk avprovning en betydande faktor för produktens slutliga komfort och estetik. Respektive designteam, som inte hade erfarenhet av 3D, fick därför analysera och kommentera 5 stycken 3D-simulerade plagg. Dessa kommentarer jämfördes sedan med kommentarer från utförda designteamens fysiska avprovningar. Jämförelsen visade att designteamens önskade justeringar vid 3D-avprovning skulle medföra fler design- och mönsterändringar än vid fysisk avprovning. Detta tyder på att beslut som avgör plaggets passform och design inte bör utföras genom enbart 3D-avprovningar. Inga justeringar utfördes via beslut i 3D, endast fysiska avprovningar har legat som grund för designteamens eventuella vidare produktutveckling av plaggen. Hade designteamen däremot utfört justeringar baserat på 3D-avprovningar, parallellt med ändringar baserat på fysiska avprovningar, hade följande fysiska prototyper troligtvis medfört synliga skillnader i passform och design. Dock visade intervjuer med erfarna användare av 3D, samt uppföljningsintervjuerna med designteamen, att designteam kan använda 3D-teknik som kommunikationsverktyg, i ett tidigt skede i produktutvecklingen. Detta för att verifiera att designteamet har en gemensam uppfattning om plaggets generella utformning. / This bachelor’s thesis is written with a focus on design technology in the field of textile technology and was in a collaboration with design teams from two Swedish clothing companies. The study is primarily aimed to examine similarities and differences between 3D-fitting and physical fitting. The study also investigates what benefits or risks 3D-fitting might result in regarding the garment development. Further, the study examines each of the design team's individual experiences of analyzing 3D-fitting via follow-up interview. Previous studies show that companies in the clothing industry use 3D-fitting as a tool to reduced lead time in garment development, by not being tied to physical fitting and physical prototype. Although 3D use makes time saving possible, physical fitting is a significant factor for the comfort and aesthetics of the final garment. Each design team, having no prior experience in 3D, analyzed and commented on 5 pieces of 3D simulated garments. These comments were then compared with comments from the design teams’ physical fittings. The comparison showed that the design teams desired adjustments in 3D-fitting would result in more design and pattern changes than at the physical fitting. This indicates that decisions that effects deign or fit of the garment should not be performed only by decisions via 3D-fitting. No adjustments where done from decisions in 3D, only the physical fittings have been the basis for the design team's further product development of the garments. However, if the design team had made adjusted based on 3D fittings, in parallel with changes based on physical fittings, the following physical prototypes would likely show visible differences in fit and design. Interviews with experienced users of 3D, and follow-up interviews with the design teams, showed that design teams can use 3D technology as a communication tool, in the early stage of the garment development. This would be to verify that the design team has a common idea of garment's general design and fit.

In this master thesis work we design and analyze a data driven suit jacket fit recommendation system which aim to guide shoppers in the process of assessing garment fit over the web. The system is divided into two stages. In the first stage we analyze labelled customer data, train supervised learning models as to be able to predict optimal suit jacket dimensions of unseen shoppers and determine appropriate models for each suit jacket dimension. In stage two the recommendation system uses the results from stage one and sorts a garment collection from best fit to least fit. The sorted collection is what the fit recommendation system is to return. In this thesis work we propose a particular design of stage two that aim to reduce the complexity of the system but at a cost of reduced quality of the results. The trade-offs are identified and weighed against each other. The results in stage one show that simple supervised learning models with linear regression functions suffice when the independent and dependent variables align at particular landmarks on the body. If style preferences are also to be incorporated into the supervised learning models, non-linear regression functions should be considered as to account for increased complexity. The results in stage two show that the complexity of the recommendation system can be made independent from the complexity of how fit is assessed. And as technology is enabling for more advanced ways of assessing garment fit, such as 3D body scanning techniques, the proposed design of reducing the complexity of the recommendation system enables for highly complex techniques to be utilized without affecting the responsiveness of the system in run-time. / I detta masterexamensarbete designar och analyserar vi ett datadrivet rekommendationssystem för kavajer med mål att vägleda nät-handlare i deras process i att bedöma passform över internet. Systemet är uppdelat i två steg. I det första steget analyserar vi märkt data och tränar modeller i att lära sig att framställa prognoser av optimala kavajmått för shoppare som inte systemet har tidigare exponeras för. I steg två tar rekommendationssystemet resultatet ifrån steg ett och sorterar plaggkollektionen från bästa till sämsta passform. Den sorterade kollektionen är vad systemet är tänkt att retunera. I detta arbete föreslåar vi en specifik utformning gällande steg två med mål att reducera komplexiteten av systemet men till en kostnad i noggrannhet vad det gäller resultat. För- och nackdelar identifieras och vägs mot varandra. Resultatet i steg två visar att enkla modeller med linjära regressionsfunktioner räcker när de obereoende och beroende variabler sammanfaller på specifika punkter på kroppen. Om stil-preferenser också vill inkorpereras i dessa modeller bör icke-linjära regressionsfunktioner betraktas för att redogöra för den ökade komplexitet som medföljer. Resultaten i steg två visar att komplexiteten av rekommendationssystemet kan göras obereoende av komplexiteten för hur passform bedöms. Och då teknologin möjliggör för allt mer avancerade sätt att bedöma passform, såsom 3D-scannings tekniker, kan mer komplexa tekniker utnyttjas utan att påverka responstiden för systemet under körtid.

One of the greatest challenges facing the clothing industry worldwide, including South Africa is to provide well fitting garments to a broadly defined target population (Ashdown, Loker & Rucker 2007:1; Schofield, Ashdown, Hethorn, LaBat & Salusso 2006:147). Yu (2004:32) further states that from the consumers’ perspective, physical and psychological comfort as well as appearance play an important role in determining a well fitting garment and these are most likely to be shaped by the individual’s personal values. According to Kaiser (1998:290), personal values refer to standards or principles that guide an individual’s actions and thoughts that help to define what is important by guiding one’s choices or preferences of how the garment should fit. Hence garment fit and the subsequent appearance serves as a personal expression, communicating some personal values to others (Kaiser 1998:290) that can be achieved through the fitting of the garment. When female consumers encounter garment fit problems either through body shapes, garment sizing or garment size label communication, an emotional experience may result due to the failure to attain the personal values they are aiming to uphold or achieve. Cognitive appraisal theory of emotions is one of the theories among others that attempts to understand why people experience emotions. Lazarus (2001:55) defines cognitive appraisal theory of emotions as a quick evaluation of a situation with respect to one’s wellbeing. The answers to these evaluations directly cause the emotions experienced by a person. Since clothing can be used to express personal values to others (Kaiser 1998:146), the social standards appraisal dimension which can be one of the evaluative questions in the theory of cognitive appraisal concerning a situation, was the relevant evaluative component which this study focused on. This appraisal dimension evaluates whether the situation, in this case the negative experience of an ill-fitting garment affects what the consumer aspires to achieve socially through garment fit. Numerous studies such as Horwaton and Lee (2010); Pisut and Connell (2007) and Alexander, Connell & Presley (2005) on the garment fit problems from a consumer’s perspective have mostly been conducted in developed countries with limited research focusing on the consumers and their emotional experiences with garment fit. Understanding the factors that contribution to the garment fit problem currently being faced by female consumers in South Africa is an essential step in creating awareness of how this problem affects female consumers emotionally and the influence it has on their purchasing decisions. The purpose of this study is, therefore, to determine the female consumers’ personal values attributed to garment fit and to identify the emotions resulting from the perceptions of garment fit. This study predominantly employed an exploratory qualitative research approach. Data were collected from a purposive and convenient sample of 62 females from the UNISA – Florida Campus and King David High School in Victory Park in Johannesburg, South Africa through a self-administered questionnaire. Data on the demographic profile that included the ethnicity and age of the participants as well as data on the psychographic profile of the participants concerning frequently patronized clothing retailers, garment fit preferences and self-reported body shapes were collected through closed-ended questions. These data were analysed using the quantitative method of descriptive analysis. In addition to the psychographic profile of the most frequently patronized clothing retailer and garment fit preferences, participants were further requested to provide reasons as to why they mostly patronized the clothing retailer they ranked number 1, and to provide a reason for their preferred garment fit option. Content analysis, a qualitative method, was used to analyse the reasons provided by the participants for both these questions. Content analysis was also performed on additional information on body shape and garment sizing as well as data on garment size label communication. Furthermore, the means-end chain approach through the hard laddering exercises was used to explore and determine the female consumers’ personal values and emotions depicted through the perceptions of garment fit. Data from the hard laddering interviews on body shapes and garment sizing were carefully coded and categorized into attributes, consequences and personal values. Data were presented through the hierarchical value maps (HVMs) which were constructed through the software program Mecanalyst V 9.1. The analysis established that attributes such as quality of garments, various garment styles, availability of sizes, and fashionable styles directed female consumers’ most frequented clothing retailers. These attributes seemed to be aligned with their personal values they seek when shopping for garments. The findings also showed that most female consumers in this study preferred semi-fitting pants, a blouse and garments in general, a reasonable number of the participants preferred tight-fitting pants (31%), and some participants preferred loose-fitting pants, a blouse and garments in general. The specific personal values such as the comfortability of the garment, modesty, cover-up perceived body shape “flaws” and slimming effect which female consumers in this study desire to achieved through clothing also influenced their garment fit preference. With regard to the perceived self-reported body shapes of the participants, the study reflected that the majority of the participants were triangular body shaped. The study further found that female consumers in this study have expectations of how a garment ought to fit their body. Their expectations seem to be shaped by certain personal values such as “confidence”, “freedom” or “look good” which they aspire to achieve through clothing and garment fit. However, due to variations in body shapes, problems of garment sizing they encounter when purchasing ready-to wear garments and the incorrect information communicated on the size labels or the lack thereof, the majority of the female consumers failed to achieve their personal values. As a result mainly negative emotions such as “frustrated”, “sad”, “confused” and “depressed” were expressed by the participants. With regards to the effect of the perceived garment fit on the purchasing decision, the study found that fit of the garment is an important determinant of making a purchase. However, where female consumers in this study showed an interest of purchasing, while aware of some fit problems, the study found that exceptional conditions such as the possibility of altering the garments and design features such as colours that would conceal their perceived “figure flaws, made it easier for them to decide to purchase. The study further highlighted that some participants only purchased their ready-to-wear garment at certain shops where their needs were catered for and only when they had enough time to try-on the garment they intend to purchase instead of relying on the garment sizing and garment size label communication. Where participants indicated they would not purchase a garment with fitting problems, the study found that some female consumers in this study copied the designs of the garments in the clothing retailers and had someone reproduce it for them, whilst a few female consumers refused to purchase a garment whose size label was incorrectly communicated. Lastly the study also revealed that most female consumers thought that body shape, garment sizing and garment size label communication contribute to garment fit problems female consumers are currently facing in South Africa. It is, therefore, recommended that clothing manufacturers consider the various body shapes in their garment charts, know the needs of their target market and also use uniform sizing and size labelling systems that are easily understood by consumers that purchase ready-to-wear garments from retailers in South Africa. / Life & Consumer Sciences / M. Sc. (Consumer Science)

One of the greatest challenges facing the clothing industry worldwide, including South Africa is to provide well fitting garments to a broadly defined target population (Ashdown, Loker & Rucker 2007:1; Schofield, Ashdown, Hethorn, LaBat & Salusso 2006:147). Yu (2004:32) further states that from the consumers’ perspective, physical and psychological comfort as well as appearance play an important role in determining a well fitting garment and these are most likely to be shaped by the individual’s personal values. According to Kaiser (1998:290), personal values refer to standards or principles that guide an individual’s actions and thoughts that help to define what is important by guiding one’s choices or preferences of how the garment should fit. Hence garment fit and the subsequent appearance serves as a personal expression, communicating some personal values to others (Kaiser 1998:290) that can be achieved through the fitting of the garment. When female consumers encounter garment fit problems either through body shapes, garment sizing or garment size label communication, an emotional experience may result due to the failure to attain the personal values they are aiming to uphold or achieve. Cognitive appraisal theory of emotions is one of the theories among others that attempts to understand why people experience emotions. Lazarus (2001:55) defines cognitive appraisal theory of emotions as a quick evaluation of a situation with respect to one’s wellbeing. The answers to these evaluations directly cause the emotions experienced by a person. Since clothing can be used to express personal values to others (Kaiser 1998:146), the social standards appraisal dimension which can be one of the evaluative questions in the theory of cognitive appraisal concerning a situation, was the relevant evaluative component which this study focused on. This appraisal dimension evaluates whether the situation, in this case the negative experience of an ill-fitting garment affects what the consumer aspires to achieve socially through garment fit. Numerous studies such as Horwaton and Lee (2010); Pisut and Connell (2007) and Alexander, Connell & Presley (2005) on the garment fit problems from a consumer’s perspective have mostly been conducted in developed countries with limited research focusing on the consumers and their emotional experiences with garment fit. Understanding the factors that contribution to the garment fit problem currently being faced by female consumers in South Africa is an essential step in creating awareness of how this problem affects female consumers emotionally and the influence it has on their purchasing decisions. The purpose of this study is, therefore, to determine the female consumers’ personal values attributed to garment fit and to identify the emotions resulting from the perceptions of garment fit. This study predominantly employed an exploratory qualitative research approach. Data were collected from a purposive and convenient sample of 62 females from the UNISA – Florida Campus and King David High School in Victory Park in Johannesburg, South Africa through a self-administered questionnaire. Data on the demographic profile that included the ethnicity and age of the participants as well as data on the psychographic profile of the participants concerning frequently patronized clothing retailers, garment fit preferences and self-reported body shapes were collected through closed-ended questions. These data were analysed using the quantitative method of descriptive analysis. In addition to the psychographic profile of the most frequently patronized clothing retailer and garment fit preferences, participants were further requested to provide reasons as to why they mostly patronized the clothing retailer they ranked number 1, and to provide a reason for their preferred garment fit option. Content analysis, a qualitative method, was used to analyse the reasons provided by the participants for both these questions. Content analysis was also performed on additional information on body shape and garment sizing as well as data on garment size label communication. Furthermore, the means-end chain approach through the hard laddering exercises was used to explore and determine the female consumers’ personal values and emotions depicted through the perceptions of garment fit. Data from the hard laddering interviews on body shapes and garment sizing were carefully coded and categorized into attributes, consequences and personal values. Data were presented through the hierarchical value maps (HVMs) which were constructed through the software program Mecanalyst V 9.1. The analysis established that attributes such as quality of garments, various garment styles, availability of sizes, and fashionable styles directed female consumers’ most frequented clothing retailers. These attributes seemed to be aligned with their personal values they seek when shopping for garments. The findings also showed that most female consumers in this study preferred semi-fitting pants, a blouse and garments in general, a reasonable number of the participants preferred tight-fitting pants (31%), and some participants preferred loose-fitting pants, a blouse and garments in general. The specific personal values such as the comfortability of the garment, modesty, cover-up perceived body shape “flaws” and slimming effect which female consumers in this study desire to achieved through clothing also influenced their garment fit preference. With regard to the perceived self-reported body shapes of the participants, the study reflected that the majority of the participants were triangular body shaped. The study further found that female consumers in this study have expectations of how a garment ought to fit their body. Their expectations seem to be shaped by certain personal values such as “confidence”, “freedom” or “look good” which they aspire to achieve through clothing and garment fit. However, due to variations in body shapes, problems of garment sizing they encounter when purchasing ready-to wear garments and the incorrect information communicated on the size labels or the lack thereof, the majority of the female consumers failed to achieve their personal values. As a result mainly negative emotions such as “frustrated”, “sad”, “confused” and “depressed” were expressed by the participants. With regards to the effect of the perceived garment fit on the purchasing decision, the study found that fit of the garment is an important determinant of making a purchase. However, where female consumers in this study showed an interest of purchasing, while aware of some fit problems, the study found that exceptional conditions such as the possibility of altering the garments and design features such as colours that would conceal their perceived “figure flaws, made it easier for them to decide to purchase. The study further highlighted that some participants only purchased their ready-to-wear garment at certain shops where their needs were catered for and only when they had enough time to try-on the garment they intend to purchase instead of relying on the garment sizing and garment size label communication. Where participants indicated they would not purchase a garment with fitting problems, the study found that some female consumers in this study copied the designs of the garments in the clothing retailers and had someone reproduce it for them, whilst a few female consumers refused to purchase a garment whose size label was incorrectly communicated. Lastly the study also revealed that most female consumers thought that body shape, garment sizing and garment size label communication contribute to garment fit problems female consumers are currently facing in South Africa. It is, therefore, recommended that clothing manufacturers consider the various body shapes in their garment charts, know the needs of their target market and also use uniform sizing and size labelling systems that are easily understood by consumers that purchase ready-to-wear garments from retailers in South Africa. / Life and Consumer Sciences / M. Sc. (Consumer Science)

Complete garment knitting technology is a method of producing knitted products, generally fashion garments, ready-made directly in the knitting machine without additional operations such as cutting and sewing. This makes it possible to manufacture a knitted fashion garment with fewer processes then with conventional production methods. In the fashion business customer demand is always changing due to fashion trends, so to be able to manufacture and deliver products rapidly is important. Mass customisation is a customer co-design process of products and services that tries to meets the needs of an individual customer’s demand for certain product features. In the fashion business this means that the customer can order a garment with a customised style, colour, size, and other personal preferences. The principal objective of this dissertation was to examine if and how complete garment technology can be applied to the customisation of knitted fashion products. It was pursued through several independent studies in knitting technology, mass customisation, and fashion logistics against a theoretical frame of reference in these areas. The papers in this thesis present various examples of how knitted fashion garments can be customised and integrated into fashion retailing concepts. The starting point of the research was the Knit-on-Demand research project conducted at the Swedish School of Textiles in collaboration with a knitting manufacturing and retailing company. The aim was to develop a shop concept built on the complete garment technology where a garment could be customised, produced, and delivered as quickly as possible. This initial idea failed due to the expense of investing in complete garment knitting technology, and so other avenues of research had to be found. The Knit-on-Demand project continued, using a business model similar to the complete garment concept but with the retail store and the production unit situated in different locations. The overall research question addressed in this thesis is: How can complete garment knitting technology be applied in a retail concept for customised garments? This question is then divided in two problems: What are the fashion logistics effects of combining complete garment technology and mass customisation? How does the co-design process function in the customisation of knitted fashion garments?The following is a qualitative study based on five research articles applying different research methodologies: case studies, simulations, and interviews. The empirical context is the area of mass customisation of fashion products and knitting technology, more specifically called complete garment knitting production technology. No prior studies describing mass customisation of complete garment knitting technology in combination with fashion logistics were found in the literature. The main contribution of this study is the demonstration that complete garment knitting technology can be applied in the customisation of fashion products. It also illustrates the importance of the co-design process between the company and the customer through which a knitted garment can be customised, produced, and delivered to the customer in three to five hours. The process of co-design and manufacture of a customised complete fashion product is examined, and the advantages and disadvantages associated with customisation of knitted garments are identified and described.

För att kunna underlätta för sjukvården, både med avseende att belastning och för att underlätta för patienter med allergier mot t.ex. limmet som används för att fästa elektroder mot kroppen, arbetas det med att ta fram sensoriska plagg. Ett sensoriskt plagg kan användas för att kontrollera olika mätvärden i vardagen så som hjärtsignaler eller liknande och ska vara lätt för patienten att använda själv hemma. Eller som ett alternativ för någon som är allergisk mot det lim som vanligtvis används för att fästa sensorer mot kroppen. För att sensorerna i plagget ska kunna ge tydliga och användbara mätningar behöver de sitta stilla med ett jämt tryck på sensorerna mot kroppen. För att användaren av det sensoriska plagget ska vilja använda plagget och finna det bekvämt kan inte trycket mot kroppen vara för högt. Därför är det viktigt att ta reda på vilket tryck som uppfattas som bekvämt och vara funktionellt, men också är tillräckligt högt för att få en tydlig och användbar mätning. I denna rapport undersöks därför vilket tryck som uppfattas som gångbart ur användarsynpunkt. Undersökningen genomfördes med hjälp av elva deltagare som testat olika tryck och hur dessa tryck förändras under rörelse. Detta för att hitta vilket tryck deltagarna uppfattade som användbart och tillräckligt bekvämt för att använda i vardagen. Denna undersökning visa stora skillnader på vilket tryck som uppfattas som bekvämt och hur mycket trycket förändras under rörelse. Samt att statisk position inte påverkar signalerna från hjärtat anmärkningsvärt vid de undersökta trycken. / To relieve and ease a small part of the healthcare from work overload and help patients with allergies to glue used to attach the standard sensors, a sensor-equipped wearable garment could be used. The wearable garment could be used to monitor a patient´s values during the day and should be easy for the patient to use themselves at home and comfortable to use every day, or for a patient who is allergic to the glue usually used to attach the sensors. To make the sensors on the sensor-equipped garment work the sensors must sit with pressure against the body to get readable and useful measurement. The pressure from the sensors around the body can not be too tight if it gets too uncomfortable. Therefore it is important to find what pressure that is comfortable enough for the patient to use everyday but still get good enough readings from the measuring devise to be used to monitor the patient´s values. This study looks into what pressure that the participants perceive as comfortable to use on an everyday basis. In this study the pressure is measured on eleven different participants, the pressure was measured at different times and when the participants performed different movements too document the changes in the pressure at movement to find what pressure the participants perceive as comfortable enough for everyday use. This study shows that the pressure perceived as comfortable varies between participants and that the pressure change during movement. It also shows that static position do not affect the quality of the signals from the heart at the used pressures.