This text is dealing with the intersection of three main elements: abstraction, geometrical form and distortion. Together these three paths forms garments around and in relation to the body. Throughout the project body is reduced into rectangular planes and cylinders. To reduce body into geometrical shapes can be explained as a method or a system through which body is approach as a neutral form. Because body is the source for abstraction, this approach can be applied to any part of the body and repeated in various compositions as it will always relate to a body form in some ways. The project also focuses on how to build holistic compositions through hues. Geometrically reduced body shapes are arranged through three dimensional compositions in which relationships between dominant, subdominant and subordinate forms are specifically in focus. Garments are embodied through weaving, Dominant and subdominant forms are investigated through distortion as a result of leaving warp and weft threads unattached in certain areas in the woven material. The technique expresses both organic and geometric in the material itself. In combination with colour blocks and panels and cylinders as forms, the technique was able to be translated into wearable forms. The project was developed as a dialogue between intuitive search and an intelligent reflective approach to outcomes. Because the projects put strong focus on subconscious notion of form emotions and senses plays an important role as guidance throughout the project. Findings are presented in collection of ten outfits where aesthetic qualities of form are put as a primary factor. / Program: Konstnärlig masterutbildning i mode- och textildesign

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For several years, research work has been carried out at the University of Canterbury aimed at the development of a rapid prototyping and manufacturing process referred to as Robotic Foam Sculpting (RFS). This system uses a six-axis industrial robot and electrically-heated hot-wire and hot-blade tools to sculpt desired parts from blocks of polystyrene foam. The vision for this system is that it will be able to rapidly create large volume foam models at low cost, for a range of potential applications. Parts produced by the RFS system can potentially be used as investment casting patterns, cores for sculptures and architectural details, demonstration and testing models, wind tunnel test models, and many other potential applications. At the beginning of the work reported in this thesis, there was very little understanding of the nature of the surfaces produced by hot-tool cutting of foam, very little knowledge of the range of input cutting conditions that affected the surface quality, and almost no understanding of the relationships between the cutting strategy and the nature of the surfaces being produced. In addition, there was little evidence of published work on these subjects that was sufficiently robust to be applicable to the RFS system. This research was concerned with rectifying this gap in the existing knowledge. There were a number of different focal areas for this research. These included the surface texture of surfaces cut with hot tools, the effects of cutting strategy on the surface quality in single-pass cutting of foam, the effects of cutting strategy on the surface quality in multi-pass cutting, and the application of a current-control system to control the surface quality in real time during a cut. In each of the focal areas the goal was to develop a detailed understanding of the nature of the different aspects of surface quality, to map the factor interactions and dependencies that controlled these aspects of surface quality, to develop methods for predicting the expected surface quality based on cutting strategy (and vice versa) and to develop techniques for minimising the surface errors. The detailed investigation of the surface texture of surfaces produced with hot-tool cutting is presented in Chapter 4. This chapter explores the characteristic nature of foam surfaces, presents the development of a method of measuring the surface texture of foam, and investigates the usefulness of a range of standard texture parameters for assessing foam surface quality. It is concluded in this chapter that common texture parameters based on the relative heights of surface features are not capable of reliably discriminating between different foam surfaces, so a new texture parameter (the 10%-Height Contiguous Diameter) is developed and implemented. Using this parameter, it is possible to reliably predict the surface texture to be expected for a given set of cutting conditions. Investigations of the cutting strategy in single-pass cutting are presented in Chapter 5. This chapter identifies the two key aspects of surface quality in single-pass cutting, the kerfwidth and the surface barrelling. Experimental work is carried out to investigate the relationships between these errors and the cutting strategy, and the factors that influence each of them are identified. In addition, statistical models are developed for the kerf along the length of a cut so that the kerf can be predicted based on cutting conditions. This chapter also includes a study of the cutting force in single-pass cutting, and develops models that allow the prediction of the expected cutting force for a given cutting strategy. A detailed study of the cutting strategy for multi-pass cutting is presented in Chapter 6. This study identifies the most significant surface errors in multi-pass cutting and determines the causes of each of these errors and the factor interactions and dependencies that have to be considered when developing a multi-pass cutting strategy. Once again, statistical models that allow the prediction of these surface errors based on cutting strategy, or the evaluation of cutting strategy parameters to achieve a desired surface quality, are developed. The models for cutting force in single-pass cutting are applied to multi-pass cutting, and it is found that these models can accurately predict the force in multi-pass cutting as well. The characterisation of the acoustic output in hot-tool cutting forms the subject matter of Chapter 7. This study establishes that the magnitude of the acoustic output is proportional to the cutting force experienced during the cut, and is therefore potentially suitable for use as a trigger signal for feedback current control. This would allow an acoustic signal to be used instead of the current force signal, which has a number of drawbacks that will be discussed in Chapter 2, the Background Material chapter. The specific trigger signal identified as being of most use is the acoustic output in the 4 – 12 kHz band, where the presence of any non-zero acoustic output above background noise is a reliable and repeatable indicator of the presence of thermomechanical cutting. The work presented in this thesis provides a detailed, quantitative, evidence-based and reliable understanding of the nature of the cutting strategy in hot-tool cutting of foam. The key cutting strategy parameters and the important aspects of surface quality for different cutting types are identified, the relationships between all these parameters are mapped, and quantitative models are developed that allow the output metrics like the surface quality or the cutting force to be predicted with a high degree of accuracy based on the input cutting strategy conditions. Armed with this understanding, it is possible to determine the most suitable cutting strategy for sculpting a given part, and to assess whether a given part can be sculpted with the RFS system. As such, the research problem posed at the start of this thesis has been largely solved, and the stage is set for further research to optimise the cutting strategy for sculpting different parts and to correct the remaining drawbacks of the RFS system to complete the development of a commercially-useful manufacturing system.

Accurate information about tree volume in tropical vegetation formations is critical for the identification of potential areas for sustainable timber production, carbon estimation and biodiversity conservation. Difficult access and the cost of obtaining a large number of samples needed for accurate wood volume and biomass determination are often barriers for carrying out inventories and studies in natural forests in Brazil. Therefore, the development of more efficient techniques of mensuration in tropical forests is an important mechanism for conservation, management and production advancement. The main purposes of this thesis are: introducing a new method for quantifying vertical and horizontal structures by using principal component analysis (PCA); developing two different approaches of volume modeling, one based on DBH and another based on crown area; proposing a new taper equation for native vegetation in three different formations; and estimating upper section diameters to become the geometric form method useful in natural vegetation in Brazil and reducing dependence on destructive measurements. / Informações corretas sobre o volume de árvores em formações de vegetação natural são fundamentais para a identificação de áreas potenciais para produção madeireira sustentável, estimativa de carbono e conservação da biodiversidade. Dificuldade de acesso e altos custos na obtenção de amostras necessárias para estimativas precisas de volume e biomassa são barreiras frequentes na condução de inventários e estudos florestais no Brasil. Dessa forma, o desenvolvimento de técnicas mais eficientes de mensuração em florestas tropicais é um importante mecanismo para o avanço da conservação, manejo e produção. Os principais objetivos deste trabalho foram: introduzir um novo método de quantificação das estruturas vertical e horizontal por meio do uso de análise de componentes principais (ACP); desenvolver modelos volumétricos baseados em DAP e modelos baseados em área de copa; propor uma nova função de afilamento aplicada a três diferentes formações vegetais; e estimar alturas em que deverão ter diâmetros medidos ao longo da árvore para tornar o método geométrico útil em formações naturais no Brasil, e reduzindo a necessidade de mensurações que requerem o abatimento das árvores.

Accurate information about tree volume in tropical vegetation formations is critical for the identification of potential areas for sustainable timber production, carbon estimation and biodiversity conservation. Difficult access and the cost of obtaining a large number of samples needed for accurate wood volume and biomass determination are often barriers for carrying out inventories and studies in natural forests in Brazil. Therefore, the development of more efficient techniques of mensuration in tropical forests is an important mechanism for conservation, management and production advancement. The main purposes of this thesis are: introducing a new method for quantifying vertical and horizontal structures by using principal component analysis (PCA); developing two different approaches of volume modeling, one based on DBH and another based on crown area; proposing a new taper equation for native vegetation in three different formations; and estimating upper section diameters to become the geometric form method useful in natural vegetation in Brazil and reducing dependence on destructive measurements. / Informações corretas sobre o volume de árvores em formações de vegetação natural são fundamentais para a identificação de áreas potenciais para produção madeireira sustentável, estimativa de carbono e conservação da biodiversidade. Dificuldade de acesso e altos custos na obtenção de amostras necessárias para estimativas precisas de volume e biomassa são barreiras frequentes na condução de inventários e estudos florestais no Brasil. Dessa forma, o desenvolvimento de técnicas mais eficientes de mensuração em florestas tropicais é um importante mecanismo para o avanço da conservação, manejo e produção. Os principais objetivos deste trabalho foram: introduzir um novo método de quantificação das estruturas vertical e horizontal por meio do uso de análise de componentes principais (ACP); desenvolver modelos volumétricos baseados em DAP e modelos baseados em área de copa; propor uma nova função de afilamento aplicada a três diferentes formações vegetais; e estimar alturas em que deverão ter diâmetros medidos ao longo da árvore para tornar o método geométrico útil em formações naturais no Brasil, e reduzindo a necessidade de mensurações que requerem o abatimento das árvores.