Content: Air temperature and humidity are fundamental in the milling operation. There is a complicated correlation between air conditions and leather moisture that is practically impossible to predict in industrial process. Many important characteristics like softness, grain, pebble, yield depend on leather moisture. This patented system is the latest improvement in milling drums technology that keeps the leather cooler and allows a precise and optimal humidity control. Designed for soft, tight-grained leathers, especially from organic tannages and opened to a wide range of new operating conditions impossible with traditional machinery. The original new design makes the milling drum completely independent from the outside environment with many advantages: consistency over seasons, shorter transition time, energy savings. The original design is recognized by international patent, laboratory results on leather will be displayed during the presentation. Take-Away: The original new Cold Milling technology design makes the milling drum completely independent from the outside environment with many advantages: consistency over seasons, shorter transition time, energy savings. Nappa leather and all tight-grained leathers, especially organic tannaed, are beneficiary of this new technology.

Content: Animal skins, a byproduct of the meat industry is the basic raw materials for the tanning industry. Just after flaying, animal skins have to preserve protecting it from microbiological destruction. Globally, sodium chloride is mostly used as popular preserving agents for the animal skins. It preserves the skin by its dehydrating ability. Nevertheless, sodium chloride is cost-effective, available, and easy to apply but the method suffers greatly in terms of environmental context. To reduce the pollution load, especially chloride in soaking operation several works have been carried out to preserve animal skins with various agents. This study is intended to preserve the goat skin with Sphagneticola trilobata leaf paste without sodium chloride for reducing the chloride in the soaking liquor. The plant has antimicrobial activity, widely distributed tropical and subtropical regions. The anticipated preservation method was assessed monitoring different parameters e.g., shrinkage temperature, hair slip, putrefaction, odour, moisture content, extractable nitrogen, and bacterial count on fresh (raw), 1st, 4th, 7th, 14th, 21st and 28th day in comparison to the conventional wet salting method. The physical properties of the processed leathers e.g., tensile strength, percentage of elongation, and ball burst of the crust leathers were fulfilled the required values. The chemical parameters like chloride, total dissolved solids (TDS), biochemical oxygen demand (BOD), and chemical oxygen demand (COD) of soaking liquor were investigated. The proposed preservation method was reduced pollution loads: chloride, TDS, BOD, and COD in soaking operation by 98.04%, 92.9%, 90.2% and 85.5%, respectively. The scanning electron microscope (SEM) photographs of both the present and conventional preservation methods processed crust leathers revealed similar texture and quality to each other. The anticipated preservation method could be a sustainable option to preserve goat skin, which could reduce the pollution loads during leather processing. Take-Away: 1. Sphagneticola trilobata leaf paste preserved goat skin up to 28 days 2. Reduction of chloride and TDS were 98.04% and 92.9% in soaking liquor 3. Lessening of BOD and COD were 90.2% and 85.5% in soaking liquor

Content: We are a group company of a major department store in Japan. We are in charge of quality control and customer service of items sold by our stores. We constantly monitor our customers’ concerns, and we have been keeping customer correspondence records since 1996. We hold over 100,000 cases for all items of food, clothing, living and services. The record includes not only customer requests but also test results of each item before sales as well as reproduction test results based on customer requests. We use the database to build our quality standards for everything we sell and for the education of our sales staff. All personal information in these correspondence records are, of course, kept completely confidential. However, improving the quality of the items we sell is not simply a problem of finding solutions within our supply chain. Using compiled results, we aim to clarify the type and level of problems users experience with leather goods, leading to overall quality improvement of supply items of scale. However, we cannot perform this task alone. As a survey method, it is based on compiling all 7,000 records of leather goods over the past decade sorted by our original ‘product-code’ and ‘consultation-code’. By using compiled results, we are able to clarify what kinds of items and what kind of complaints is more often in major sales items. Additionally, by using text extraction from the content of customers’ requests and compiling them manually, totals can be determined for each use period and product color. For example, we can compare customer complaint data with test results for colour fastness. Referring to required performance items specified by ISO standards, the gap between customer requests and quality standards can be clarified. With the internationalization of purchasing networks of sales items, quality control based on setting various safety and quality standards is becoming increasingly important. In terms of the characteristics of leather, we think that there is probably a level that is impossible to realize, however, not only the problems of regulations and safety but the nature of the customer's viewpoint must also be discussed. Take-Away: We are going to present current data showing proof of what consumers actually want. Using this data, leather goods manufacturers can efficiently make products that consumers want and avoid making products that consumers don’t want. We suggest that quality standards , including ISO, should consider not only safety and regulations of environment, but consumer`s opinions as well.

Content: In this study, equipped charcoal of Ficus carica without impregnation, impregnated with potassium hydroxide (KOH), zinc chloride (ZnCl2) and phosphoric acid (H3PO4) was used for sorption comparison of trivalent chromium from tannery wastewater. The equipped charcoal is characterized before and after used by Fourier transforms infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR). The quantitative elemental analysis is performed of the charcoal using PGT Energy dispersive X-ray spectrometry (EDX). The trivalent chromium sorption efficacy of charcoal was examined investigating charcoal dose, contact time, and relative pH parameters. Batch sorption test revealed that Ficus carica charcoal without impregnation had the maximum sorption capacity of trivalent chromium as depicted Fig. 1a. At the same conditions, trivalent chromium sorption on the Ficus carica charcoal without impregnation, impregnated with potassium hydroxide, zinc chloride and phosphoric acid was 98.9%, 98.8%, 8.9 and 2.5%, respectively. It is noticeable that without impregnation charcoal has a higher sorption capacity. Conversely, impregnation with chemical required cost involvement, time-consuming, long process time, and safe. Fig.1b depicts a shift in the peak intensity which indicated the change of frequency in the functional groups of the charcoal due to chromium adsorption. It indicates various responsible functional groups for the removal of trivalent chromium through Ficus carica charcoal. The trivalent chromium removal efficiency with the Ficus carica charcoal without impregnation was achieved 98.9%. The study could be helpful to design the sorption of trivalent chromium from the tannery wastewater in-house prior to discharge. Take-Away: 1. Without impregnation, Ficus carica charcoal has a better trivalent chromium sorption capacity 2. Trivalent chromium sorption capacity was 98.9%

Content: The retanning process is considered as one of the most important processes in leather making, and it plays an important role in the modern leather industry. The fibre structure of hide or skin is not uniform and the retanning agent improves the properties of leather by filling the empty part of wet-blue leather. It could contribute to further stabilization of collagen fibres and give better handle properties to leather such as fullness and elasticity. In a conventional leather retanning process, retanning materials used include both inorganic salt like basic chromium salt, zirconium salt and aluminum salt and organic materials such as vegetable tanning agent, synthetic tanning agent, resin retanning and aldehyde tanning agent. Extract from the barks of Acacia seyal (Talh bark), widely distributed in Sudan, has been evaluated for its utilization in the retanning of the leather and presented in this paper. Barks of talh have been extracted for 1 hour with distilled water (1:10 w/v) at temperature above 80˚C. The talh extract prepared has been used for the retanning of wet blue leathers. The effectiveness of talh extract in retanning of wet blue leathers has been compared with mimosa retanning. The organoleptic properties of the leathers viz. softness, fullness, grain smoothness, grain tightness (break), general appearance, uniformity of dyeing of talh retanned leather have been evaluated in comparison with mimosa retanned leathers. Talh retanning resulted in leathers with good grain tightness. Dyeing characteristics of talh retanned leathers have been found to be better than mimosa retanned leathers. Also physical strength characteristic and shrinkage temperature and economic viability were noted. The effluent arising from this retanning system has been analyzed for its environmental impact. Take-Away: Organoleptic properties physical strength characteristic Shrinkage temperature

Content: Tannins are high molecular weight polyphenols, naturally synthesized by plants to defend themselves against biotic and abiotic stress factors. Their role as antioxidant, antibiotic and antibacterial agent has been known for many years among agriculture, food, pharma and cosmetics industry. If tannins would perform an antibacterial activity in a vegetable tanned leather, the leather itself could be certified as an antibacterial material. This effect could be very interesting for all the applications in which the leather, being in contact with sweat and bacteria, becomes a solution to reduce more or less severe hyperhidrosis and bromhidrosis. The goal of the study was the assessment of the antibacterial activity of vegetable tanned leathers with natural tannins to produce articles in direct contact with human skin and, therefore, their effect on sweat, bacterial growth and metabolite production. Firstly, the antibacterial activity has been evaluated and compared between leathers tanned with Chestnut, Quebracho and Tara extracts, chrome tanned leathers and synthetic materials. The trial was performed in vitro by inoculating gram positive (Staphylococcus aureus) and gram negative (Escherichia coli) bacterial strains. A later step defined the most suitable blend of tannins to obtain, after tanning and/or retanning, an antibacterial natural leather. Furthermore, the vegetable tanned leathers, made with this tannins blend, have been the target of an in vivo trial during which 15 panelists have worn two differently made shoes. The lining and insole inside the right shoe have been made with vegetable tanned leathers with tannins, while the ones inside the left shoe contained only synthetic material. The shoes have been worn for 28 consecutive days, followed by a molecular and bioinformatic analysis of microbiota samples taken from the inner surface of the shoes by using a sterile swab. Lastly, a biochemical analysis of volatile short chain fatty acids has been carried out to investigate the byproducts of the bacteria responsible for the unpleasant odor of shoes. Take-Away: 1. Vegetable tanned leather is a wonderful antibacterial material thanks to the presence of natural tannins, such as chestnut, quebracho and tara. This property is appreciated in the production of insole leather, lining, leather goods and automotive interiors. 2. The problem of bromhidrosis (bad feet odor) can be avoided by using vegetable tanned leather. 3. In particular, vegetable leathers tanned with tannins used to make inside part of the shoes permit to avoid the formation of cheesy and acidic odours thanks to their antibacterial properties and their capacity to absorb sweat.

Content: Wastewater from tanneries besides having toxic compounds also contain nutrients such as carbon, phosphorus, and nitrogen, which facilitate the rapid multiplication of microalgae. Currently, many types of researches search microalgae capable of growing in industrial effluents, exploiting the advantages of removing the nutrients present in these waters and producing biomass with high value- added. The liquid effluents produced in tanneries for finished leather have essential nutrients for the growth of microalgae, but also some compounds that may restrict or hinder the growth of microalgae in this medium. Therefore, the present work has the objective to evaluate the growth of a microalgae consortium (collected in a wastewater treatment plant of a beamhouse tannery) for the removal of phosphorus and ammonia from wastewater streams of a tannery (processing wet-blue to finished leather) with different photoperiods. Microalgae consortium was cultivated at two different compositions of mixtures of raw wastewater (R) and wastewater after secondary biological treatment (B): 50% of R + 50% of B, (50R50B) and 75% of R + 25% of B, (75R25B), in photoperiod of 24 hours and 12 hours of light, temperature of 25 °C and constant aeration. The growth of microalgae in the effluent and the removal of phosphorus and ammonia were monitored throughout the cultivation. The microalgae consortium presented maximum biomass concentrations in the 75R25B effluent (1.40 g L-1) and phosphorus removal (97.64% for the 50R50B and 95.54% for the 75R25B) effluent and ammonia removal (100%) for both effluent with 24-hour photoperiod light. Take-Away: In this study, it was found that the microalgae consortium can survive in wastewater from tanneries (processing wet-blue to finished leather) and exhibit removals of phosphorus and ammonia from the medium. The 24-hour light photoperiod presented better microalgae growth and nutrient removal results.

Content: ZnO nanoparticles were developed by 1:2 ratios of Zinc sulphate heptahydrate and Sodium hydroxide by using precipitation method. The structure, morphology of ZnO nanoparticles were investigated by using XRay Diffraction, Scanning Electron Microscopy and Transmission electron Microscopy. X-Ray Diffraction confirms the formation and average crystallite size of ZnO nanoparticles. Scanning Electron Microscopy studies shows the ZnO nanoparticles were in spherical in structure. These ZnO nanoparticles were used in different ratios along with conventional finishing formulations and coated on the leather surface. The performance properties such as water fastness, rub fastness and flexing resistance were evaluated. Application of ZnO nanoparticles in leather finishing showed significant improvement in overall performance properties than conventional finishing formulations. XRD confirms the formation of ZnO nanoparticles (wurtzite structure) at 36.67° (101) plane and the particles size was in the range of 43 nm. SEM image shows that the particles are in the spherical structure wheras EDAX investigate the stoichiometry and chemical purity of the samples to confirm the presence of zinc and oxygen. Optimum quantity up to 2-5 g/L of the season of ZnO nanoparticle is desirable for upgrading the value of leathers by improving color fastness to water, rub fastness and flexing resistance (wet & dry) properties significantly in cationic (wet), NC lacquer emulsions and PU top coat dispersions in finishing formulations. Take-Away: Optimum quantity up to 2-5 g/L of the season of ZnO nanoparticle is desirable for upgrading the value of leathers by improving color fastness to water, rub fastness and flexing resistance (wet & dry) properties significantly in cationic (wet), NC lacquer emulsions and PU top coat dispersions in finishing formulations.

Content: In this study, different acid proteases, which were produced from Aspergillus and Bacillus, were applied for wet-blue bating and their properties and bating effects were observed. The results showed that the acid protease produced Aspergillus had better bating effect and higher chromium tolerance than that of produced by Bacillus. Furthermore, how the acid protease influenced wet-blue microstructure was analyzed by SEM and Micro-CT. The enzymatic properties of acid protease was studied firstly.Zeta potential analysis showed that the isoelectric point (pI) of the protease was consistent with its pH value, which was at 3.0. By particle size analysis, it found that its particle size was 700 nm. In order to obtain the functional components, the molecular weight of the acidic protease was analyzed by Polyacrylamide gel Electrophoresis (SDS-PAGE). Different molecular weight components were obtained by separating the acidic protease with Tangential Flow Filtration (TFF) Technology. The characteristics of these components were determined such as enzyme types and their proportion. Afterwards, these different molecular weight components were used for wet-blue bating. The bating effluent was collected, and then, contents of Hydroxyproline (Hyp), Hyaluronic acid (HA), Desmosine (Des) and Chondroitin sulfate (CS) were analysed, which could be directly corresponding with the degradation of different proteins in wet-blue. Therefore, by characterizing and comparing the bating effect influenced with these different molecular weight components, the functional components of protease could be identified and further be separated and purified. Based on these results, this research is helpful to the development and study of the action of acid protease in the wet-blue bating process. Take-Away: Micro-CT as a new way to characterize the microstructure of leather; Identification and Separation of Effective Components of Acid Protease； Degradation Analysis of Main Components of Wet-Blue during bating process.

Content: Leather manufacturing involves discharge of large quantities of solid and liquid wastes. While efficient recycling methods and in-plant controls have considerably reduced the discharge of obnoxious liquid streams, satisfactory methods to the solid waste management still elude the leather manufacturers. Landfilling is an easy option for the disposal of solid wastes like chrome shavings and trimmings, but is subjected to stringent environmental regulations because of the presence of chromium in these materials. Considerable efforts have been made to recycle the chrome containing wastes by methods such as incineration, pyrolysis and alkaline or enzyme hydrolysis. These recycling processes, however, are seldom complete without further environmental problems. Unfortunately, in such recycling processes the inherent fibrous structure of these materials gets completely destroyed. Applications based on the fibrous nature of the shavings and trimmings are presently limited but various possibilities are being explored continuously. An efficient way of utilization of these fibrous waste materials may be to combine them in a suitable form with synthetic polymers to give composite materials. Short fiber reinforcement of polymers is an important area in polymer composites where both synthetic and natural fibers are effectively used. Footwear has become a basic necessity like food, shelter and clothes. Soles are bottom components of footwear and some important polymeric materials used in footwear fabrication are last, soles and Insoles. This research aims at reducing the solid waste (Chrome shavings) generated by leather industry and reusing them as low cost shoe components such as soles and insole material. In this research, the footwear components were prepared using chrome shaving (tannery solid waste), EPDM (ethylene propylene monomer rubber) and isoprene rubber with different inorganic oxide/hydroxide nano particle based fillers. In this study, soles are prepared by using strap cutting machine, two roll mill and compression moulding machine. The soling materials made characterised using FT-IR and SEM and tested for mechanical properties. Due to good mutual compatibility between Isoprene, EPDM and leather fibre with inorganic nano clay based fillers, the composites are well in terms of all the physic-mechanical behaviours like hardness, density, abrasion resistance and grain crack suitable for shoe sole application. Take-Away: 1. Ethylene propylene monomer rubber and leather fibre with inorganic nano clay based fillers, the composites are well in terms of all the physic-mechanical behaviours like hardness, density, abrasion resistance and grain crack suitable for shoe sole application. 2. An efficient way of utilization of these fibrous waste materials may be to combine them in a suitable form with synthetic polymers to give composite materials. Short fiber reinforcement of polymers is an important area in polymer composites where both synthetic and natural fibers are effectively used.