A deriva litorânea é estudada no litoral sul do Espírito Santo através de diferentes técnicas: distribuição de Minerais Pesados (MP); modelo conceitual Análise de Transport de Sedimento (Sediment Trend Analysis - STA), através da variação de parâmetros texturais do sedimento; dados de clima de onda entre 1997 e 2010 do modelo global WaveWatch III propagados para a zona costeira através do modelo Delft-3D, fornecendo parâmetros necessários para as equações de deriva; e imagens de satélite e fotografias aéreas para avaliar a variação espaço-temporal da morfologia costeira. O modelo STA mostrou-se confiável apenas nos dois setores ao norte, enquanto nos demais os resultados foram mascarados por altos teores de MP e/ou carbonato e a entrada de outras fácies no sistema; as equações representaram bem a variação da morfologia costeira na área de estudos. De maneira geral, os setores ao sul apresentaram transporte longitudinal para sul, e os setores ao norte, para norte, fato relacionado à batimetria local. A orientação da linha de costa auxiliou na compreensão dos fenômenos erosivos, pois em sua maioria estão orientados no sentido NEN, formando 45º com as ondas dos setores de ESE e SE. / Longshore drift is studied in the southern portion of Espírito Santo through different techniques: Heavy Minerals (HM) distribution; the conceptual model Sediment Trend Analysis (STA) by sediment textural parameters fluctuation; wave climate data between 1997 and 2010 from WaveWatch III propagated to the coastal zone through Delft-3D model, providing the required data for longshore drift equations; and satellite images and aerial photograph to survey time-space coastline variations. The STA model appears to be trustworthy only within the northern sectors, as high HM and/or carbonate content and different facies input into the system may mask the results. Broadly speaking, the southern sectors showed longshore transport southward, while northern sectors showed northward longshore transport, which is related to local bathymetry. Shoreline azimuth helped understanding the location of erosive zones, since most of them are turned NEN, 45o with ESE and SE wave sectors.

In this study, available coastal models are briefly discussed and under wind waves and a numerical shoreline change model for longshore sediment transport based on &ldquo / one-line&rdquo / theory is developed. In numerical model, wave diffraction phenomenon in one-dimensional modeling is extensively discussed and to represent the irregular wave diffraction in the sheltered zones of coastal structures a simpler approach based on the methodology introduced by Kamphuis (2000) is proposed. Furthermore, the numerical model results are compared with analytical solutions of accretion and erosion at a single groin. An application to a case study of a groin field constructed to the east side of Kizilirmak river mouth, at Bafra alluvial plain, is carried out by the numerical model. The results of comparisons show that the numerical model is in good agreement with the analytical solutions of shoreline changes at a groin. Similarly, numerical model results are compared with field data of Bafra and it is shown that they are in good agreement qualitatively. Therefore, the numerical model is accepted to be capable of representing of shoreline evolution qualitatively even for complex coastal regions.

In this study, a numerical model &ldquo / Modified Coast-Structure Interaction Numerical Model&rdquo / (CSIM) is developed with an implicit approach to determine the shoreline changes due to wind wave induced longshore sediment transport under the presence of groins, T-groins and offshore breakwaters by making modifications on the explicit numerical model &ldquo / Coast-Structure Interaction Numerical Model&rdquo / (CSI). Using representative wave data transformed to a chosen reference depth from deep water, numerical model (CSIM) simulates the shoreline changes considering structure interference. Breaking and diffraction within the sheltered zones of coastal structures defined for offshore breakwaters by using vectorial summation of the diffraction coefficients and as for T-groins shore-perpendicular part forms a boundary to define the shoreline changes seperately at two sides of the structure. Numerical model, CSIM is tested with a case study by applying in Bafra Delta, Kizilirmak river mouth at Black sea coast of Turkey. Numerical model simulations show that model results are in good agreement qualitatively with field measurements.

In this study, a two-dimensional depth-averaged beach evolution numerical model is developed to study the medium and long term nearshore sea bottom evolution due to non-cohesive sediment transport under the action of wind waves only over the arbitrary land and sea topographies around existing coastal structures and formations. The developed beach evolution numerical model is composed of four sub-models: a nearshore spectral wave transformation model based on energy balance equation including random wave breaking and diffraction terms to compute the nearshore wave characteristics, a nearshore wave-induced circulation model based on the non-linear shallow water equations to compute the nearshore depth averaged wave-induced current velocities and mean water level changes, a sediment transport model to compute the local total sediment transport rates occurring under the action of wind waves and a bottom evolution model to compute the bed level changes in time due to gradients of sediment transport rates in cross-shore and longshore directions. The governing partial differential equations are solved utilizing finite difference schemes. The developed models are applied successfully to several theoretical and conceptual benchmark cases and an extensive data set of laboratory and field measurements. As an alternative approach to be used in beach evolution problems, a distributed total sediment load formula is proposed based on the assumption that the local total sediment transport rates across the surf zone are proportional to the product of the rate of dissipation of wave energies due to wave breaking and wave-induced current velocities. The proposed distribute load approach is validated with the available laboratory and field measurements.

Beach nourishment provides an excellent opportunity for the study of intensified sediment transport gradients and associated morphological changes in a natural setting. The objectives of this study are to quantify and predict longshore and cross-shore transport gradients induced by 1) beach nourishment, 2) different storm wave conditions, and 3) the annual wave climate and long-term sediment supply. The details of sediment transport rates and gradients induced by gradual processes and high-energy events are analyzed on a macro-scale. Well-planned monitoring of the 2004 Upham Beach nourishment project in west-central Florida collected high-spatial and -temporal resolution field data. Three hurricanes passed by the project soon after nourishment was complete.Post-nourishment planform adjustment occurs immediately after nourishment via diffusion spit development at the end transitions. Thus, the initiation of planform adjustment may be abrupt, rather than gradual as pred icted by the typical diffusion models. Diffusion spit formation is dominant during relatively calm wave conditions on coasts with low wave heights and tidal ranges.Profile equilibration also may be an event-driven, rather than a gradual, process. Rapid profile equilibration following nourishment occurred not only due to hurricane passage, but also during a winter season. The duration between nourishment and the passage of the first high-energy event is an important factor controlling the time scale of profile equilibration.The passage of three hurricanes generated different wave conditions and induced different sediment transport directions, rates, and gradients due to their variable proximities to the project area. The direction of cross-shore transport was governed by wave steepness. Onshore sediment transport occurred during a storm event, in contrast with the concepts of gradual onshore transport during mild wave conditions and abrupt offshore transport during storm events, as cited in the literature.By formulating sediment budgets on various temporal and spatial scales, both event-driven and average transport rates and gradients can be resolved. Annual average transport rates for a region should not be arbitrarily applied to nourished beaches; rather, sediment budgets formulated with high-spatial and -temporal resolution field data should be formulated during the design phase of future nourishment projects.

Beaches and coastal environments are dynamic, constantly shaped and reshaped by natural processes and anthropogenic modifications. The morphodynamics and influence of natural and anthropogenic factors of two different coasts at various temporal and spatial scales are discussed. To quantify the performance of several beach nourishment projects at annual temporal and kilometer spatial scales on three adjacent microtidal low-wave energy barrier islands in west-central Florida, a total of 5,200 beach and nearshore-profiles spaced at 300 m were surveyed monthly to bi-monthly from 2006-2010. Beach nourishment performance is most significantly influenced by the interruption of longshore sediment transport by complex tidal-inlet processes. More specifically, the tidal-inlet processes influencing adjacent beach nourishment performance includes longshore transport interruption resulting from divergence induced by wave refraction over an ebb-tidal shoal, flood-tidal currents along the beach, and total littoral blockage by structured inlets. A morphologic indicator of a large longshore transport gradient within the study area is the absence of a nearshore sandbar. These non-barred beaches are characterized by persistent shoreline erosion and were almost exclusively located in areas with a large longshore transport gradient. The more typical beach state along the three barrier islands was one exhibiting a migratory bar and relatively stable shoreline. The presence of a sandbar indicates the dominance of cross-shore processes, with onshore migration during calm wave conditions and offshore migration during energetic wave conditions. The onshore and offshore migration of the sandbar is closely related to non-stormy summer and stormy winter seasonal beach changes, respectively. The morphodynamics of a mixed sand and gravel beach in Delaware were investigated based on 740 beach profiles surveyed almost monthly from 2009 to 2011, 60 sediment cores, and 550 surface sediment samples collected at various alongshore and cross-shore transects. Inter-seasonal temporal scales of storm-induced beach changes and post-storm recovery were examined based on a hurricane, a typical energetic winter storm, and an extremely energetic storm resulting from the rare collision of a hurricane and winter storm ("Nor'Ida") occurring within a 3-month period in 2009. The mixed sand and gravel beaches in Delaware are characterized by monotonically increasing water depths lacking a sandbar under all wave conditions. A distinctive beach cycle was identified consisting of a built-up berm profile and depleted nearly-planar storm profile, with a time-scale related to the frequency and intensity of storm impact and duration of intra-storm recovery instead of simple seasonality. The sedimentological characteristics of the storm deposit associated with Nor'Ida demonstrated substantial cross-shore variation ranging from sandy-gravel and gravelly-sand within the storm swash zone (near the pre-storm dune edge) to well-sorted medium to coarse sand seaward of the storm swash zone, suggesting that storm deposits along mixed beaches demonstrate a variety of sedimentological characteristics. A new dynamic beach cycle model is proposed for the non-barred mixed sand and gravel beach with temporal variability controlled by storm occurrence and inter-storm duration.

Une approche modélisante du potentiel TSL le long des plages du golfe du Lion est proposée sur la base du modèle d’ingénierie côtière Unibest-LT (Deltares). Sont exploités en entrée de modèle des données de houle de 1979 à 2010 (base de données ANEMOC-2 produite par le Cerema à partir d’une approche modélisante également) conjointement à des données topo-bathymétriques haute résolution LiDAR (base de données Litto3D produite conjointement par le SHOM et l’IGN). Le potentiel de TSL annuel est calculé pour 157 profils topo-bathymétriques couvrant l’ensemble des ∿250 km de littoral étudié dans ce travail de thèse.En premier lieu, le potentiel de TSL annuel résultant est d’abord estimé sur la base d’une année de houle type, établie à partir de 31 ans de houle horaire entre 1979 et 2010, puis pour chaque année entre 1979 et 2010. La différence observée avec le potentiel de TSL annuel résultat « type » permet de discrétiser les années en trois situations : anomalie positive, anomalie négative ou proche de la normale. Par ailleurs, un lien est clairement établi entre la variabilité interannuelle identifiée dans les simulations et les tempêtes. En outre, cette analyse interannuelle menée à l’échelle des plages du golfe du Lion amène à affiner les limites des cellules de dérive littorale potentielle, pour lesquelles trois scénarios d’organisation sont établis : habituel, occasionnel, exceptionnel.Enfin, le lien entre potentiel de TSL annuel résultant et variations du rivage est testé, conformément au large corpus bibliographique qui existe à ce sujet en ingénierie côtière. Cependant, les résultats s’avèrent décevants : une remise en cause de la théorie sous-jacente est proposée. / Wave data from 1979 to 2010 derived from a large-scale modelling database (ANEMOC-2) were used together with high resolution topo-bathymetric LiDAR data as inputs within the coastal engineering model Unibest-LT (Uniform Beach Sediment - Longshore Transport). The spatial and temporal coverage of these data offers a unique opportunity to carry out a comprehensive study of potential longshore transport intensity and direction.Over the 250 km-long stretch of coast covering the study area, the longshore drift directions computed with the 30-year mean wave climate closely match those of previous findings based on experimental geomorphological methods.Potential LST rates are then computed for each year individually over the 1979-2010 period. Deviations from the 30-year mean LST rates are used to identify 3 cases: positive anomalies, negative anomalies and close to normal. Storm contributions to longshore transport are brought into light: inter-annual variability in LST rates is strongly correlated to >4 m waves occurences.The relationship between LST rates gradients alongshore and shoreline changes is also investigated : despite the significant amout of papers on that subject, results showned in this thesis appears to be disappointing.In the light of these findings, coastal drift cell boundaries are defined taking into account the 30-year mean potential LST rates and the inter-annual variability. This thesis thus highlights the good potential of longshore transport modelling in yielding coherent results that are essential from a shoreline management perspective for future coastal sustainability.

As ondas geradas por tempestades causam as alterações mais significativas na costa arenosa. Este trabalho avaliou a influência da variabilidade interanual do clima de ondas nos processos costeiros do litoral Sudeste e Sul do Brasil. O clima de ondas foi determinado a partir de resultados entre 1997 e 2010 do modelo numérico NOAA WAVEWATCH III (NWW3) com seis pontos de água profunda. O modelo numérico MIKE 21 SW foi utilizado para verificar o efeito destas ondas na Enseada de Massaguaçu (SP) e no trecho Sul de Imbituba (SC). Foram simuladas as direções de ondas mais frequentes e foi calculado o transporte longitudinal de sedimentos gerado por elas. As ondas do quadrante Sul foram mais energéticas e não foi identificado um padrão na variação interanual do clima de ondas. Em São Paulo, as direções de onda mais frequentes (Sul e Sul-Sudoeste) não geraram quantidade efetiva de transporte de sedimentos, e foram as ondas de Leste-Sudeste a Sudeste-Sul que geraram a maior quantidade de transporte longitudinal de sedimentos. Em Santa Catarina foram as ondas de Leste a Sul que geraram maior transporte longitudinal de sedimentos. / The coastal dynamics is mainly controlled by waves, being the energetic storm waves the most influential. This study aims to assess the wave climate influence on coastal processes in the South and Southeastern coast of Brazil. The wave climate was defined through NOAA WAVEWATCH III (NWW3) numerical model results for six offshore points, from 1997 to 2010. In order to propagate the waves onshore the Spectral Wave FM from MIKE 21 numerical model has been applied on Massaguaçu bay (SP) and Imbituba (SC). Most frequent storm waves have been simulated for each year and sector and sediment longshore transport along each sector was calculated. Waves from the South are the most energetic. There is no clear interanual pattern in the time-series. For SP, the most frequent directions (South and South-Southwest) do not generate considerable longshore sediment transport, with East-Southeast to Southeast-South waves generating most sediment transport, which was northwards for all beaches. In SC the sediment transport was northwards in Vila and Vila Nova beaches and southwards on Itapirubá beach, with waves from Eastern and Southern quadrants generating more longshore sediment transport.

Os ambientes costeiros podem ser caracterizados por sua grade dinâmica, onde existe o embate entre o continente e o mar. A dinâmica sedimentar da linha de costa constitui conhecimento básico em obras de engenharia e na compreensão do ambiente costeiro. Buscou-se compreender os mecanismos do funcionamento dinâmico da região em torno do Porto de Tubarão, Vitória-ES, através de análises de marés, de clima de ondas, agitação marítima, de correntes induzidas por ondas e transporte sedimentar. Os resultados permitiram algumas interpretações tanto de curtíssimo prazo como de longo prazo. As correntes de marés são particularmente importantes, sobretudo próximo as bocas dos canais de Vitória e da Passagem atingindo valores de até 0,.7m/s. As ondas atingem a área com alturas significativas variadas, dependendo do grau de exposição. Na praia de Camburi as ondas dificilmente ultrapassam 1 metro de altura significativa, enquanto na praia Mole ondas de 2.5m de altura significativa ocorrem com certa freqüência. A direção da corrente na praia Mole está diretamente relacionadas com as direções de incidência das ondas variando de NE até SW, enquanto sua intensidade está relacionada com as alturas e períodos, variando de 0 até 0.44 m/s. A praia de Camburi, por sua vez apresenta correntes rumo ENE independente da direção de propagação das ondas ao largo da Baia do Espírito Santo. As velocidades médias variam entre 0 e 0,3 m/s. O porto de tubarão serve de abrigo às ondas, influenciando na direção média do fluxo de energia nas praias adjacentes. A longo prazo a tendência da praia de Camburi é de sofrer uma rotação acentuando os processos erosivos na porção ocidental. / The coastal zones can be characterized by the huge dynamic battle, continent forces against the ocean forces. The sedimentary dynamic of the coast line is a basic knowledge necessary to carry out engineering features and to understand the natural coastal environment. This work tried to understand the mechanisms that control those dynamics in the region near to the Tubarão Harbour, Vitória- ES. The effects of the tides, wind generated wave clima, wave induced currents and sedimentary transport was analyzed in short and long terms. In short terms, tide currents are specially important near the estuaries mouth (Vitória and Passagem channels), with velocities reaching 0.7m/s. The waves reach the coast line with different significant wave heights, depending on the each site expositions to in coming waves. At Cambury beach the waves hardly gets significant wave height over 1meter, in other hand, at Mole beach, waves with 2,5m significant wave height are quite often. At Mole beach, wave induced currents directions are directly correlated with the wave direction in outside zones, oscillating between NE and SW directions. The current velocities, which depends on wave height and wave period, presents values between 0 and 0,44 m/s. At Cambury beach the currents always goes to ENE, independent of outside wave directions. The velocities varies between 0 and 0,3 m/s. The Tubarão harbour acts like a wall creating shadows for the incident waves in the beaches behind. In long terms, the Mole beach seems to be stable and Cambury Beach seems to rotate some degrees of it mean direction, with the intensifications of the erosional process in the oriental portion of the beach.

The variability of the nearshore wave climate is investigated via the analysis of over 10 years of Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP) data from a gauge deployed at Melbourne Beach, FL. Examples of large yearly variability in the significant wave height, peak period, mean direction and energy distribution are found in the data. Estimates of the averaged spectra for the entire record show that the average wave energy is distributed almost symmetrically with the peak being close to shore-normal. It was expected that the peak would be shifted towards the north of shore-normal considering net north to south longshore sediment transport at this location. Further analysis of the directional spectra partitioned into three directional windows reveals that waves from the southeast (avg. Hmo = 0.78 m) are less energetic than those from the northeast (avg. Hmo = 0.87 m), but they arrive from the south 53% more often. Additionally, energy-based significant wave height (Hmo), peak period (Tp) and mean period (Tmean) distributions are studied and modeled with notable success. Radiation stress (Sxy) estimates are computed using both rigorous integration as well as parameter-based approximations. These two estimates are correlated but the parameter-based approximation over predicts Sxy by 42%, because this method assigns all the wave energy into one direction (Ruessink et al., 2001). Finally, it is shown by the Sxy total average that the net longshore forcing at this location is indeed north to south, but yearly and seasonal variability were quite high. The results indicate that short-term wave records may not provide accurate information for planning purposes. For example, if only 3 months of data were collected at this site, there would be a 33% chance that the mean longshore forcing would be erroneously directed from south to north.