Academic perspectives on the meanings of luxury often link luxury to status or conspicuous consumption, assuming that luxury derives its meaning primarily from a traditional viewpoint, in which it is narrowly associated with generic economic and social displays of superiority, as attained through the rhetoric of wealth (Vickers and Renand, 2003; Vigneron and Johnson, 2004). However, this traditional view of luxury fails to appreciate the cultural and emotional complexity of luxury consumption: this rather limited interpretation therefore risks rendering consumers as passive and primarily homogeneous entities. This thesis argues that the term ‘luxury’ has little meaning unless it is integrated within the current ‘practices’ of consumer culture. Thus, the study conceptualises luxury from a consumer perspective, wherein meanings are understood as resulting from luxury consumption practices adopted by diverse sets of consumers across cultures. Sixteen UK and Sixteen Thai undergraduate and postgraduate students were selected to participate in two stages of data collection, involving collage construction, in-depth interviews and further fieldwork. The findings extends the existing research on luxury by developing four practices of luxury consumption: caretaker, escapist, self-transformation, and status-based. Accordingly, the study proposes an alternation view of luxury as ‘everyday luxury’, a view in which consumers can transfer and incorporate self-defined luxuries into everyday contexts. The notion of everyday luxury fundamentally allows us to move beyond a purely materialistic understanding of luxury in order to reach a metaphysical account of luxury as a subjective, moral, ephemeral and immaterial concept present in our everyday living. Moreover, this idea considerably fulfils our understanding of contemporary luxury so that traditional luxury (Veblen, 1902) and everyday luxury can co-exist within the concept of luxury. Overall, the subjective truth of the meaning of luxury in a cross-cultural context is regarded as combining the construct and outcome of a reciprocal interaction between both traditional and everyday luxury, the understanding of the self and morality within different cultures and societies, and different reflections on individuals’ lived experiences.

The world of luxury products for many years was reserved only for the selective and exclusive audience. It looked like it was impossible to experience it or to get in for someone from outside. Marketers of luxury brands have created such an environment where clients could feel exclusivity and enjoy timeless quality, values, history and heritage of the brand. It is very important to maintain the traditional values for luxury brands but in order to stay in touch with the target audience, luxury producers have to face and adapt to rapidly changing environment. There are a lot of debates about comparability of the Internet and luxury, as digital world is too impersonal comparing with core competence of luxury: exclusivity, outstanding experience and human touch in everything including craftsmanship, personal selling and customer relations. In current environment luxury companies cannot ignore the importance of the Internet as a communication and transaction tool and have to stay in touch with its target audience. The main contribution of this dissertation thesis is an analytical framework "features of importance for online luxury consumer satisfaction" that will help luxury marketers to understand online luxury consumers, their motivations, behavior and preferences. Additionally, framework presents the up-to-date data that can be executed while creating digital marketing communications strategy. The influence of content, social, process and technology gratifications on the online luxury consumer satisfaction was investigated. By incorporating the quantitative approach it was possible to make a deep analysis of the research problem. To obtain the necessary data the group structured questionnaire was used to analyze the proposed research model. A total of 133 respondents were accepted for the investigation. Analysis of correlation proved the positive relation between gratifications and luxury consumer satisfaction, even thought, proposed gratifications had different influence on the satisfaction. Content and technology gratifications had the most strong and positive influence on the satisfaction. However, from the obtained results it is visible that social gratification had the least important but still positive effect on the luxury consumer satisfaction. The obtained results are a valuable asset for the luxury companies as research revealed the main directions and themes on which luxury marketers should stress while creating online communication strategies.

Made available in DSpace on 2016-10-13T14:10:34Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 adrianaleite.pdf: 4599202 bytes, checksum: 49fac7ef4c4d20f3ac114f205900b5e5 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2011-03-24 / The broad purpose of this work is to study some issues that serve to support the relationship among consumption, communication and identity. It seeks to understand the relations between communications and consumption, as from the formation of the identity of female consumers of national luxury articles, obtaining these relations inside the group itself. For that purpose, we will investigate some representations of consumptions of national brands by a social group of the elite, which can influence new tendencies and be followed by other social groups. We will look after the profile of this consumer and how his choices are made. The specific purpose of this work is to analyze the relations among communication, consumption and formation of identity, understood as a continuous social process, where the agents are actives in their choices. Therefore, this work proposes a study of the reception, which is inserted at the research line that studies the socio-cultural impacts of the communication oriented to the marke of the Communication and Consumption Practices Master Program of ESPM. In the process of investigation, we will conduct a bibliographical research, under a theoretical nature, in order to look for references that will help to build the object, enriching the reflections over the proposed relations and the analysis of the data to be collected in field researches. We will also conduct a research of secondary data over the fashion world. / O objetivo amplo desse trabalho é estudar algumas questões que servem de pano de fundo para a relação entre consumo, comunicação e identidade. Procura-se entender as relações de comunicação e consumo a partir da formação de identidade das mulheres consumidoras de artigos de luxo nacional, buscando estas relações junto ao próprio grupo. Para tanto, investigaremos algumas representações de consumo de grifes nacionais por um grupo social de elite que pode influenciar novas tendências e ser seguido por outros grupos sociais. Busca-se identificar o perfil deste consumidor e como suas escolhas são feitas. O objetivo específico é entender as relações entre comunicação, consumo e a formação da identidade entendidas num processo social continuado, em que os agentes são ativos em suas escolhas. Portanto, este trabalho propõe um estudo de recepção, que se insere na linha de pesquisa que trata dos impactos sócio-culturais da comunicação orientada para o mercado do Programa de Mestrado em Comunicação e Práticas de Consumo da ESPM. No processo de investigação, será realizada uma pesquisa bibliográfica, de cunho teórico, com o objetivo de buscar referencias que ajudarão a construir o objeto, enriquecendo as reflexões sobre as relações propostas e a análise de dados a serem coletados em pesquisa de campo. Também será realizado um levantamento de dados secundários sobre o mundo da moda.

This study explored South African female consumers’ value perceptions as well as their needs for traceable information on exotic crocodile leather accessories. The Wiedmann, Hennigs and Siebels' Luxury Value Perception Scale (2007) and the Consumer Decision-making Process (Solomon & Rabolt, 2004:354) served as conceptual framework for the study. A questionnaire was distributed across South Africa and completed by willing participants. All participants were South African citizens, females of varyin g cultural backgrounds, including: African, Caucasian, Indian, Asian and Coloured individuals. The Consulta Research (Pty) Ltd used their extensive database of female consumers for sampling purposes. They managed to collect three hundred and thirty seven (337) completed and usable questionnaires. The Spearman's Correlation Coefficient, descriptive statistics, as well as exploratory factor analysis were used for data analysis. The results indicate that respondents to this questionnaire were not willing to pay marketrelated prices for exotic crocodile leather accessories. Findings of this study uncovered five luxury value perceptions as opposed to the four originally recognised by Wiedmann et al. (2007), namely Functional, Social, Financial, Individual gifts and Individual pleasure value perceptions. Of these luxury value perceptions, respondents indicated that the functional value perception was the most important to them. Traceable intrinsic and extrinsic-related attributes which can have an impact on decision-making by consumers were also explored. Results indicate that respondents found intrinsic-related attributes moderately important when deciding to purchase an exotic crocodile leather accessory. With regard to extrinsic-related product attributes, results indicate that most respondents found these extrinsic-related attributes moderately important. The notable exception was the position brand-holders held on child labour, which was indicated as important by most respondents. Results further indicated weak-positive, but statistically highly significant relationships between functional value perceptions and the importance of intrinsic-related as well as extrinsic-related information. Weak-positive, but statistically highly significant relationships were also conversely found between financial value perceptions and the importance of intrinsic and extrinsic-related information. There was a weak but statistically highly significant relationship between the individual giftvalue perception and the importance of extrinsic-related information as well as, conversely, a weak-positive statistically significant relationship between individual gift-value perceptions and the importance of intrinsic-related information. Purchase intent is an important determinant when consumers make decisions. Research results for this study have, however, indicated that respondents had a weak purchase intent for exotic crocodile leather accessories. Most respondents reported that they would never, at any time, buy an exotic crocodile leather accessory. Neither would they at some stage have the intention to buy an exotic crocodile leather accessory, or have a purchase interest for an exotic crocodile leather accessory. Finally, results show that there was a weak-positive, but statistically highly significant relationship between the importance of extrinsic-related product attributes and purchase intent. Results of this study make positive contributions towards the decision-making of various role players within the exotic crocodile leather accessory industry. Role players such as farmers, manufacturers, distributers, retailers and marketers can all benefit from the results. Based on the results of this study, recommendations for industry and future research are made. / Dié studie ondersoek Suid-Afrikaanse vroueverbruikers se waardepersepsies asook hul behoeftes aan navolgbare inligting oor eksotiese krokodilleerbykomstighede. Die Wiedmann, Hennigs and Siebels's Luxury Value Perception Scale (2007) en The Consumer Decisionmaking Process (Solomon & Rabolt, 2004:354) dien as die konseptuele raamwerk vir dié studie. 'n Vraelys is dwarsoor Suid-Afrika versprei en voltooi deur vrywillige deelnemers. Alle respondente was Suid-Afrikaanse burgers, vroue van 'n verskeidenheid etniese herkomste, waarby ingesluit: Afrikaan, Kaukasiese, Indiese, en kleurlingindividue. Consulta Research (Pty) Ltd het van hul uitgebereide databasis van vroueverbruikers in hul steekproef gebruik gemaak. Hulle het daarin geslaag drie om honderd sewe en dertig (337) voltooide en bruikbare vraelyste te bekom. Die Spearman’s Correlation Coefficient se beskrywende statistiek en oorsigtelike faktore-ontleding is gebruik in die data-analiese. Die bevindings dui daarop dat respondente op die vraelys nié bereid is om markverwante pryse te betaal vir eksotiese krokodilleer-bykomstighede nie. Verdere bevindings in dié studie het vyf luukse waardepersies blootgelê, teenoor die vier aangedui deur Wiedmann et al. (2007), naamlik: Funksionele, Sosiale, Finansiële, Individuele geskenke, en Individuele plesierwaardepersepsies. Van dié luuksewaardepersepsies het respondente aangedui dat die funksionele waardepersepsie vir hulle die belangrikste is. Opspoorbare en navolgbare intrinsieke of ekstrinsieke eienskappe wat 'n invloed kan hê op die besluitnemening deur verbruikers was matig-belangrik in die besluitproses vir die aankoop van 'n eksotiese krokodilleerbykomstigheid. Met betrekking tot ekstrinsieke produkeienskappe, dui resultate daarop dat respondente grootliks hierdie ekstrinsieke eieskappe ook as matig-belangrik geag het. Die opmerklike uitsondering is beleidstandpunte wat handelsmerkeienaars ten opsigte van kinderarbeid handhaaf en wat as belangrik deur respondente bejeën is. Resultate dui verder daarop dat swak-positiewe, maar 'n statisties hoogs belangrike verband bestaan tussen fuksionele waardepersepsies en intrinsiek-verwante asook ekstrinsiekeverwante beskouings. Verder is ook aangedui dat hoogs belangrike verbande tussen finaniële waardepersepsies, individuele geskenkwaardepersepsies en die belangrikheid van intrinsieke en ekstrinsieke inligting teenwoordig is. Daar was 'n swak, maar hoogs belangrike verband tussen die indivuele geskenkwaardepersepsie en die belangrikheid van ekstrinsieke-verwante inligting asook die omgekeerde statisties-belangrike, swak-positiewe verband tussen individuele geskenkwaardepersepsies en die belangrikheid van intrinsiek-verwante inligting word beklemtoon. Die aankoopvoorneme is 'n belangrike oorweging in verbruikers se besluitneming. Resultate in hierdie studie, dui egter daarop dat verbruikers 'n swak aankoopvoorneme vir eksotiese krokodilleerbykomstighede het. 'n Meerderheid van die respondente het aangedui dat hulle nooit 'n bykomstigheid van krokodilleer sal koop nie. Verder sal hulle in geen stadium enige voorneme koester om 'n krokoldilleerbykomstigheid aan te skaf of belangstel om só 'n produk te bekom nie. Laastens dui resultate op 'n swak-positiewe, maar statisties hoogsbetekenisvolle verband tussen die belangrikheid van ekstrinsieke produkeieskappe en koopvoorneme. Resulate van dié studie maak 'n positiewe bydrae tot die besluitneming van verskeie rolspelers binne die eksotiese krokodilleer-industrie. Rolspelers soos boere, vervaardigers, verspreiders, handelaars en bemarkers kan almal baat vind by dié bevindings. Sleutelwoorde: Vroueverbruiker van luukse bykomstighede; industrie vir luukse krolodilleerbykomstighede; luuksewaardepersepsies; intrinsieke produkeienskappe; ekstrinsieke produkeienskappe; aankoopvoorneme. / Dissertation (MSc)--University of Pretoria, 2017. / Consumer Science / MConsumer Science / Unrestricted

Submitted by Lorenzo de Ruggiero (deruggiero.lorenzo@gmail.com) on 2017-12-20T21:29:16Z No. of bitstreams: 1 FGV Master Thesis - Final - PDF.pdf: 3102015 bytes, checksum: 168294310984bcd8986173f0e9e77fdb (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Josineide da Silva Santos Locatelli (josineide.locatelli@fgv.br) on 2017-12-21T09:39:11Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 FGV Master Thesis - Final - PDF.pdf: 3102015 bytes, checksum: 168294310984bcd8986173f0e9e77fdb (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2017-12-21T12:39:03Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 FGV Master Thesis - Final - PDF.pdf: 3102015 bytes, checksum: 168294310984bcd8986173f0e9e77fdb (MD5) Previous issue date: 2017-12-20 / The aim of the present research thesis is to investigate the luxury market in Brazil and how brand can survive in such context. All over the world this sector is becoming more and more crucial, due to many factors, such as the opening to new markets (Asia, Middle-East and so on), the increasing purchase power of consumers and the presence of much more differentiated products. After having clarified the definition of luxury and of its implications, the thesis will indeed present a global market analysis of the current situation and of the future trends. However, in Brazil luxury’s sector is facing challenging times, as the reports provided by consulting firms demonstrate. In fact, the profile of the Brazilian consumer is very peculiar and so it requires strategies ad-hoc. Moreover, the challenges of the market are many such as the attitude of spending outside Brazil, the counterfeiting, the high interest rates and many others. By the way, Brazil also represents a unique opportunity for international and local luxury brands, given to its increasing wealth and to a youthful generation of shoppers. That’s why, the thesis will also provide some effective tools for luxury companies to overcome the difficulties of the market and to catch all its potentials. As integration, practical cases of foreign luxury brands entering in Brazil are provided (Diesel, Zara, C&A and l’Occitane): these firms had found successful way to exploit the Brazilian market. Finally, the research deals with the case of the only Brazilian luxury brand able to expand outside: H. Stern. Leveraging on this experience, useful strategic insights could be provided to brands willing to follow this path. Leveraging on this experience, useful strategic insights could be provided to brands willing to follow this path. This experience is analysed through a conceptual framework about Internalization’s strategies provided at the beginning of the research thesis. / O objetivo da presente tese de pesquisa é investigar o mercado de luxo no Brasil e como a marca pode sobreviver nesse contexto. Em todo o mundo, este setor está se tornando cada vez mais crucial, devido a muitos fatores, como a abertura a novos mercados (Ásia, Oriente Médio e assim por diante), o crescente poder de compra dos consumidores e a presença de produtos muito mais diferenciados. Depois de ter esclarecido a definição de luxo e suas implicações, a tese apresentará uma análise de mercado global da situação atual e das tendências futuras. No entanto, no Brasil, o setor de luxo está enfrentando tempos difíceis, como demonstram os relatórios fornecidos pelas empresas de consultoria. De fato, o perfil do consumidor brasileiro é muito peculiar e, portanto, requer estratégias ad-hoc. Além disso, os desafios do mercado são muitos, como a atitude de gastar fora do Brasil, a contrafação, as altas taxas de juros e muitos outros. Por sinal, o Brasil também representa uma oportunidade única para marcas de luxo internacionais e locais, dada a sua riqueza crescente e a uma geração jovem de compradores. É por isso que a tese também fornecerá algumas ferramentas eficazes para as empresas de luxo para superar as dificuldades do mercado e conquistar todos os seus potenciais. Como integração, são fornecidos casos práticos de marcas estrangeiras de luxo que entram no Brasil (Diesel, Zara, C & A e L’Occitane): essas empresas encontraram formas bem-sucedidas de explorar o mercado brasileiro. Finalmente, a pesquisa trata do caso da única marca de luxo brasileira capaz de se expandir para fora: H. Stern. Aproveitando esta experiência, podem ser fornecidas informações estratégicas úteis às marcas que desejam seguir esse caminho. Aproveitando esta experiência, podem ser fornecidas informações estratégicas úteis às marcas que desejam seguir esse caminho. Esta experiência é analisada através de um quadro conceitual sobre as estratégias de internalização fornecidas no início da tese de pesquisa.