El uso de cámaras de video para obtener información de la zona costera se ha extendido en los últimos años, debido al alcance espacial y temporal y el bajo costo del equipo. Con esto se han desarrollado técnicas para realizar mediciones en las imágenes. Estas requieren supervisión, lo que limita el número de imágenes que pueden ser analizadas. En este trabajo se desarrolló una metodología para clasificar imágenes digitales según las características morfodinámicas observadas y reducir el conjunto de imágenes a unos prototipos representativos de todo el conjunto. Esta clasificación se realiza por medio de mapas auto-organizativos. Los mapas auto organizativos son redes neuronales competitivas no supervisadas diseñadas para trabajar en espacios multidimensionales. La metodología desarrollada se aplico en dos playas; la primera, macromareal, se estudio la evolución morfodinámica según el modelo de Wright y Short 1984. En la segunda, micromareal, se estudio, la evolución de la línea de costa. / The use of video cameras to study the coastal zone has been developed in the last years, due to the spatial and temporal possibilities. A large number of techniques to obtain measurements of images were developed too. Most of these techniques require the human supervision, this limit the number of images to be analyzed. In this Thesis, a methodology to classify digital images based on the morphodynamic and reduce the number of images to a few prototypes is proposed. The classification is done by means of Sel-Organizative Maps (SOMs). The SOMs are a competitive and unsupervised neural networks, specifically designed to deal with high dimensional data The methodology proposed was applied to two beaches. In the first one, macrotidal, the morphodynamic evolution was studied using the Wright and Short Model 1984. In the last one, a microtidal beach, the coastline evolution was studied.

Dredging is often conducted to maintain authorized depths in coastal navigation channels. Placement of dredged sediment in the form of nearshore berms is becoming an increasingly popular option for disposal. Compared to direct beach placement, nearshore berms have fewer environmental impacts such as shore birds and turtle nesting, and have more lenient sediment compatibility restrictions. Understanding the potential morphological and sedimentological evolution is crucial to the design of a nearshore berm. Furthermore, the artificial perturbation generated by the berm installation provides a unique opportunity to understand the equilibrium process of coastal morphodynamics. Matanzas Pass and Bowditch Point, located on the northern tip of Estero Island in west-central Florida were dredged in October 2009. The dredged material was placed approximately 600 ft offshore of Fort Myers Beach and 1.5 miles southeast of Matanzas Pass, in the form of an artificial berm. Time-series surveys and sediment sampling were conducted semi-annually in order to quantify sedimentological characteristics and morphological changes within the first year after construction of the berm. The artificial berm at Fort Myers Beach is composed mainly of fine sand. Patches of mud were found throughout the study area, with the highest concentrations being in the trough landward of the berm, and offshore southeast of the berm area. The highest concentration of carbonates was found in the swash zone, as well as at the landward toe of the berm, which coincides with the coarsest sediment. The overall mud content of the berm is lower than that of the dredged sediment, thus indicating a coarsening of the berm over time. The reduction in fines as compared to the original dredged sedimet could also indicate a selective transport mechanism that moves finer material offshore, and coarser material landward, a desirable trend for artificial berm nourishment. During the course of the first year, the berm migrated landward and increased in elevation. Onshore migration occurred mostly within the first 6 months. Along with onshore migration, the shape of the berm changed from a symmetrical bell curve to an asymmetrical shape with a steep landward slope. There is no clear spatial trend of volume change alongshore within the berm area, indicating that sediment transport is mostly cross-shore dominated. A salient was formed landward of the northern portion of the berm. Several gaps were created during berm construction due to dredging and placement techniques. These dynamic gaps are likely maintained by rip currents through them. This study showed that the Fort Myers Beach berm is active, due to its landward migration during the first year after construction.

Le littoral guyanais accueille chaque année les pontes de tortues marines. En Guyane, les tortues doivent faire face à l’instabilité côtière liée au passage d’imposants bancs de vase le long du littoral. Dans ce contexte, les plages de ponte peuvent devenir non attractives si elles présentent une érosion trop marquée ou si elles sont envasées. L’instabilité de ce littoral peut également induire la création de nouveaux sites sableux (cheniers), sites de ponte potentiels.Ce travail de thèse s’attache à étudier la dynamique morphosédimentaire des plages sableuses servant d’habitat de ponte aux tortues et les répercussions de la migration des bancs sur ces plages. La principale zone d’étude, la plage d’Awala-Yalimapo, a été instrumentée entre 2011 et 2013, et a permis de comprendre le fonctionnement hydro-sédimentaire d’une des principales plages de ponte guyanaises à une échelle mensuelle à pluriannuelle. Parallèlement à ce travail, l’activité de ponte des tortues marines a été recensée permettant de mettre en évidence l’utilisation de certains paramètres environnementaux dans la sélection finale du site de ponte. Les principaux déterminants sont la configuration de l’avant-plage, la hauteur d’eau, les courants de marée et la dynamique morphosédimentaire de la plage d’accueil. / French Guiana coast host, each year, marines turtles nesting. In French Guiana, marine turtles managed with the extreme coastal variability due to the migration of huge mud bank. In this context, nesting beaches could be unattractive if erosion is too intense or if there are silted-up. The instability of this coast could induce the creation of new sandy coastline (cheniers) and so on potential nesting site.The aim of this PhD work was to study the morphodynamics of sandy beaches which are also nesting site for marine turtles and the consequence of mud bank migration on these beaches. In-situ measurements were carried-out on the principal study area, Awala-Yalimapo beach, and permitted to increase our knowledge on the hydro-sedimentary evolution of one of the primary nesting site from daily to multiannual time scale. In the same time, the nesting activity of marine turtles was listed to highlight the use of environmental parameters in the finale selection of the nesting site. Principal environmental clues were the beach configuration, the water level, tidal current and the morphodynamics of the nesting habitat.

Les non-linéarités des ondes de surface, qui se caractérisent par leur aspect dissymétrique, sont reconnues comme l'un des principaux moteurs du transport de sédiments en zone littorale. Cependant, l'estimation du transport reste imparfaite, en partie du fait d’une description inexacte des non-linéarités de la vitesse de l'écoulement orbital. Les ondes infra-gravitaires, qui coexistent avec les ondes courtes en zone littorale, sont des ondes de longue période (20-200 s) associés aux groupes d'ondes courtes. Les mécanismes de génération, propagation et dissipation de ces ondes sont maintenant relativement bien compris, mais leur effet sur le transport sédimentaire est encore mal connu. Afin (i) d’améliorer les paramétrisations existantes des non-linéarités de vitesse et (ii) d’étudier le rôle des ondes infra-gravitaires dans le transport sédimentaire, de nouvelles expériences ont été réalisées dans deux canaux à houle, l’un avec un fond fixe et l'autre avec un fond mobile constitué de sédiments de faible densité. Les données obtenues avec ces modèles physiques ont été utilisés conjointement à des données de terrain et des simulations numériques pour étudier les deux sujets.}TEXT{}{Les paramétrisations classiques pour les non-linéarités de vitesse prennent seulement en compte l'influence de paramètres locaux (la hauteur de vague, la longueur d'onde et la profondeur d’eau), ce qui entraîne des erreurs importantes dans les estimations, en particulier les valeurs maximales de non-linéarité. Ce travail montre que les non-linéarités de vitesse ont aussi une dépendance avec des paramètres qui ne sont pas locaux: (i) la cambrure de vague et (ii) la largeur de la bande spectrale au large, ainsi que (iii) la pente de la plage. Une nouvelle paramétrisation est proposée, qui réduit d’environ 50% l'erreur sur les résultats obtenus avec les paramétrisations existantes. Les résultats expérimentaux obtenus dans le canal à houle avec un fond mobile montrent que des conditions de vagues avec la même énergie d'ondes courtes, mais avec une modulation basse fréquence différente, modèlent des profils de plage différents. L'influence des ondes infra-gravitaires sur le transport sédimentaire est mis en évidence par deux mécanismes distincts: (i) l’advection par les ondes infra-gravitaires de sédiment mis en suspension par l'action des ondes courtes, qui dépend de la hauteur des ondes infra-gravitaires et de leur phase par rapport aux groupes d'ondes courtes et (ii) les ondes infra-gravitaires modifient les non-linéarités des ondes courtes, que ce soit directement ou indirectement, par modulation de la hauteur de la colonne d'eau. Les variations morphologiques du haut de plage induites par les ondes infra-gravitaires sont associées à des changements du profil de la plage dans les zones de déferlement et de levée, en mettant en évidence le lien entre les différentes régions du profil transversal de la plage. / Wave nonlinearities have long been recognised as being among the main drivers of sediment transport in the coastal zone. However, there are still significant errors in the prediction of this transport associated, partially due to inaccurate predictions of the velocity nonlinearities. The infragravity waves, which coexist with the short waves in the coastal zone, are long-period waves (with 20-200 s) associated to the short-wave groups. Their generation, propagation and dissipation mechanisms are already reasonably well understood, but their influence on sediment transport is still very poorly characterised. In order to (i) improve current predictions of velocity nonlinearities and (ii) investigate the role of infragravity waves in sediment transport, new experiments were carried out both in a fixed-bed wave flume and in a light-weight-sediment wave flume. The physical-modelling data set is used in combination with field data and numerical simulations for studying both subjects. Existing parameterizations of velocity nonlinearities account only for the influence of local wave parameters (e.g. wave height, wave length and water depth), which leads to considerable estimation errors, especially of the maximal values of nonlinearity. This work shows that the velocity nonlinearities depend also on non-local wave parameters: (i) offshore wave steepness, (ii) offshore spectral bandwidth and (iii) beach slope. A new parameterization is proposed, which reduces by about 50% the root-mean-square error relatively to former parameterizations. The experimental results in the light-weight-sediment wave flume demonstrate that wave conditions with the same short-wave energy, but different low-frequency modulation, shape different equilibrium beach profiles. The influence of the infragravity waves on the sediment transport is confirmed and depends on two different mechanisms: (i) advection of the short-wave suspended sediment by the infragravity-waves, which is dependent on the infragravity-wave height and phasing with the short-wave groups and (ii) modulation of short-wave nonlinearities by infragravity-wave motion, both directly and indirectly, through water-depth modulation. Changes in the beachface morphology induced by infragravity waves are connected to beach-profile changes in the surf and inner-shoaling zones, highlighting the existent link between the different zones of the cross-shore beach profile.

As desembocaduras lagunares são sistemas costeiros dinâmicos e complexos em função de seu controle por diversos fatores ambientais, como amplitude de maré, energia de ondas e aporte fluvial. Essas variáveis atuam em conjunto produzindo condições hidrodinâmicas únicas e uma variedade de feições deposicionais. Estes sistemas, compostos por um canal principal e por deltas de maré, possuem fortes influências sobre a evolução da região costeira adjacente. O objetivo deste trabalho é avaliar a dinâmica da desembocadura de Cananéia, a fim de compreender os processos que governam as alterações morfológicas da região, considerando as prováveis influências do delta de maré vazante. Através de imagens aéreas e cartas náuticas históricas foi possível analisar as alterações morfológicas da desembocadura e do delta ao longo das últimas décadas. Posteriormente, foi aplicado o modelo numérico MIKE 21 para simular a propagação de ondas, a hidrodinâmica e o transporte sedimentar na região em duas situações batimétricas e em diferentes casos de ondas incidentes. Para tanto, utilizaram-se dados coletados in situ, resultados de modelos globais (WW3 e CFSR) e informações obtidas na literatura. Os resultados mostram alterações na morfologia da desembocadura com o predomínio de processos erosivos na margem norte, migração do canal e do delta para nordeste, aumento volumétrico do delta e avanço deste em direção ao oceano. Além disso, notou-se que a margem norte é exposta a maiores forças de onda e que, em ambas as margens, esta diminuiu ao longo do período analisado. Os resultados indicam a ação do delta de maré vazante como principal agente transformador de ondas, sendo a sua variação morfológica determinante para a ação das ondas nas margens do canal. A circulação é controlada predominantemente pela maré e o transporte de sedimentos, embora limitado, é aumentado sob o efeito sinérgico entre a ação de ondas e de maré. Devido a sua morfologia e hidrodinâmica, a margem norte é submetida à maior influência de ondas e de maré, resultando em processos erosivos. A dinâmica sedimentar reflete a complexidade deste ambiente. / Inlets are dynamic and complex coastal systems subjected to a variety of forces such as tidal range, wave energy and fluvial discharge. Combinations of these variables produce unique hydrodynamic conditions and a variety of depositional features. These systems, consisting of a main channel and tidal deltas, have strong influence on the evolution of the coastal zone. The aim of this study is to evaluate the dynamics of the Cananéia inlet in order to understand the processes that control the morphological changes in the region, considering the influence of its ebb-tidal delta morphology. Based on aerial photographs and historical nautical charts the morphological changes of the inlet and delta were analyzed over the last decades. Subsequently, the MIKE 21 numerical model was applied to simulate the wave propagation, the hydrodynamics and sediment transport in the region, for two different bathymetric situations and several wave scenarios. Therefore, we used in situ data, global model results (WW3 and CFSR) and information from the literature. Results show changes in the morphology of the inlet with the predominance of erosion on its northern margin, the migration of the channel and delta northeasterly, and the delta volume increase and its growth towards the ocean. Furthermore, it was noted that the northern margin is exposed to greater wave power and on both margins the wave power decreased over the analyzed period. The results show the action of the ebb tidal delta as the main transforming agent of the incoming waves and its morphological variation determines the action of the waves on the margins of the channel. The circulation is controlled predominantly by the tide and the sediment transport, although limited, is increased under the synergistic effect between the action of waves and tide. Due to its morphology and hydrodynamics, the northern margin is subjected to greater influence of waves and tide, resulting in erosional processes. The sediment dynamics reflects the complexity of this environment.

Impactos ambientais urbanos geram transtornos sociais diversos. Em muitos casos, a análise de impactos ambientais deveria ser pauta de reflexão cotidiana, inclusa nas políticas de planejamento urbano. Como suporte a essas políticas de planejamento urbano, numa perspectiva de aplicabilidade do conhecimento geomorfológico, destacam-se os mapeamentos temáticos em geomorfologia. Objetiva-se nesta pesquisa, de um modo geral, análises de impactos ambientais urbanos na bacia hidrográfica do arroio Feijó, utilizando-se do mapeamento geomorfológico de detalhe enquanto instrumento de referência, balizador e de síntese dessas análises. Apresentam-se AbSaber (1969), Ross (1992) e Fujimoto (2001), enquanto fundamentos teórico-metodológicos da pesquisa concretizada. Enquanto modos operacionais se destacam as atividades de levantamentos bibliográficos, de elaboração de documentos cartográficos, de trabalhos de campo e, embasadas nestas atividades, as análises. Compreender impactos ambientais urbanos requer o reconhecimento dos processos que os geraram e que, no seu próprio movimento, transformam-se. Impactos ambientais urbanos constituem-se ao longo do processo histórico, por julgamentos de valores de significâncias de efeitos perturbadores, de gêneses ou conseqüências antrópicas, no urbano ou para além, no ambiente, que, na promoção de mudanças ecológicas e/ ou sociais, coloquem em questão estados de auto-organização e/ ou de relativa estabilidade ambiental. A apreensão de impactos ambientais urbanos prima pela compreensão de processos ambientais através de análises multidimensionais as mais articuladas possíveis. As diretrizes para estruturação de mapeamentos geomorfológicos de detalhe, destacando-se os elementos de abordagem acordados pela Comissão de Pesquisa em Mapeamento Geomorfológico da União Geográfica Internacional (UGI), dados morfográficos, morfométricos e morfocronogenéticos do relevo, quando acrescidas das leituras morfodinâmicas do relevo, acredita-se, para o caso da bacia hidrográfica do arroio Feijó, bem embasam análises de impactos ambientais urbanos. Abordagens de dados hidrográficos, geológicos, pedológicos, pluviométricos, sócio-históricos e socioeconômicos contribuem na estruturação do mapeamento geomorfológico da bacia hidrográfica do arroio Feijó e, a partir deste, ao reconhecimento de proeminentes impactos ambientais urbanos na bacia hidrográfica em questão. No contexto do mapeamento geomorfológico, reconhecem-se padrões, unidades e geometrias de vertentes do relevo da bacia do Feijó, assim como, formas de processos atuais; também, reconhecem-se aspectos pedológicos e das vertentes de indicações morfogenéticas relativamente recentes do relevo, as quais, sensivelmente alteradas no processo de ocupação antrópica da bacia hidrográfica: há aumento do fluxo por terra e conseqüente redução da infiltração. Verifica-se alteração do sistema hidrológico da vertente e conseqüentemente do curso fluvial. Com a intensa alteração dos processos morfogenéticos, marcados pelo acréscimo dos fluxos superficiais, há um colapso na funcionalidade dos canais, com os solapamentos de margens, assoreamentos e transbordamentos dos mesmos. Visando-se atenuar os problemas decorrentes destas situações, entre outras práticas, utiliza-se do processo de retificação dos cursos fluviais, que se torna permanente. Desse modo, impõe-se a busca das gêneses, das funções e das relações, numa melhor compreensão de impactos ambientais. Há de se considerar essa busca uma constante entre as variáveis das dinâmicas ambientais, dentre elas, indica-se, das morfodinâmicas do relevo da bacia hidrográfica do arroio Feijó. / Urban environmental impacts generate various social disorders. In many cases, the analysis of environmental impacts should be the agenda for everyday discussion, included in urban planning policies. As support to these policies of urban planning in a perspective of applicability of geomorphologic knowledge we highlight the thematic mappings in geomorphology.This research, at large, aims at the analysis of urban environmental impacts in the Feijó stream hydrographic basin, using geomorphologic mapping detail as a reference tool, demarcation, and synthesis of these analyses. Ab\'Saber (1969), Ross (1992), and Fujimoto (2001) are presented in the theoretical and methodological research done. Highlighted as operating modes are the activities of research in literature, elaboration of cartographic documents, field work, and based on these activities, the analyses. Understanding urban environmental impacts requires the recognition of the processes that generated them and that, in their own movement, transformed them. Urban environmental impacts form, along the historical process, by judgments of value of significance of disruptive effects, of genesis or anthropogenic consequences, in the urban city or beyond, in the environment, which, in promotion of ecological and/or social changes, questions states of selforganization and/or of relative environmental stability. The apprehension of urban environmental impacts stands out by understanding environmental processes through the most possibly articulated multidimensional analysis. Guidelines for structuring geomorphologic detail mapping, highlighting the elements of approach agreed upon by the Committee of Geomorphologic Mapping Research of the International Geographical Union (IGU), morphographic, morphometric, and morphocronogenetic data of the relief, when the morphodynamic readings of the relief are added, is believed, in the case of the Feijó stream hydrographic basin, to well underlie analysis of environmental impacts. Hydrographic, geological, pedological, pluviometric, socio-historical, and socio-economical data approaches contribute to the structure of the geomorphologic mapping of the Feijó stream hydrographic basin and, from this, the recognition of outstanding environmental impacts in the urban hydrographic basin concerned. In the context of the geomorphologic mapping standards, units and geometries of sections of the Feijó hydrographic basin relief are recognized, as well as forms of current processes, pedological aspects and areas of relatively recent morphogenetic indications of the relief are also recognized which, significantly altered in the process of human occupation of the hydrographic basin: there is an increased flow by land and a consequent reduction of infiltration. Change in the hydrological system of the slope is verified, and consequently of the course of the river. With intense alteration of the morphogenetic processes, marked by the increase in superficial flows, there is a collapse in the functionality of the canals, with the undermining of the banks, silting, and their flooding. Aiming at mitigating the problems arising from these situations, among other practices, the process of rectification of river courses is used, which becomes permanent. Thus, the search for the genesis, functions, and relations are imposed, for a better understanding of environmental impacts. One should consider this as a constant search among the variables of environmental dynamics, among which, the morphodynamics of the relief of the Feijó stream hydrographic basin is indicated.

Cette thèse présente une étude de la dynamique des plages sableuses ouvertes dominées par la houle, au travers d’une base de données originale, couvrant une période de 29 mois, et composée de 150 levés DGPS couvrant 750m de linéaire côtier, donnant accès à la morphodynamique du site de Biscarrosse à différentes échelles de temps. Dans un premier temps, l’analyse du jeu de données à l’échelle des événements (tempêtes et successions de tempêtes appelées clusters) nous a permis de montrer que la réponse des plages sableuses aux clusters ne résulte pas de la somme des impacts induits par chaque tempête d’un cluster. Ainsi, l’effet cumulé des clusters, rapporté sur d'autres sites dans la littérature, n’est ici pas vérifié. L'impact de l’enchainement des tempêtes a également été étudié et il en résulte que lors d’un cluster, un changement des conditions hydrodynamique, à savoir, une augmentation des hauteurs de vagues et/ou du niveau d’eau, est nécessaire pour que la tempête suivante ait un impact érosif significatif sur le système. Dans un second temps, nous avons étudié la dynamique saisonnière du système plage/dune, que ce soit la saison hivernale ou estivale, dans le but de mettre en relief les principaux processus impliqués à cette échelle. Nos travaux montrent que la réponse hivernale de la plage ne dépend pas uniquement des conditions énergétiques et du profil pré-hivernal de la plage, mais également du séquençage des événements, comme lors d'un cluster. Mes travaux confirment également la nécessité de prendre en compte de nombreux paramètres dans l’étude de la dynamique hivernale des littoraux sableux : les conditions hydrodynamiques, le séquençage des évènements érosifs mais également reconstructifs, en particulier le ré-engraissement post-évènement, les transports sédimentaires cross-shore et longshore, ainsi que la position de la barre interne et des courants d’arrachements. La saison estivale est, quant-à-elle, marquée par la reconstruction de berme. Elle semble être liée à la fois aux conditions hydrodynamiques et aux caractéristiques des barres sableuses. L’étude de deux étés et deux hivers successifs a ainsi permis d’identifier les interactions entre les saisons et l’impact de la saison hivernale sur l’estivale, et l’influence de la dynamique événementielle sur la dynamique saisonnière. Elle a aussi permis de mettre en relief l’impact de l’urbanisme et des stratégies d’aménagement dans la réponse du système, à différentes échelles de temps. / This thesis presents a study of an open sandy beach wave-dominated, based on an original dataset, covering 29 months and composed by 150 DGPS surveys recorded along 750m of sandy shore, giving an access to the morphodynamic of Biscarrosse beach at different timescales. In a first time, event scale analysis showed that sandy beach response to clusters is not the result of the sum of the impact generated by each storm of a cluster on the system. Thus, the cumulated effect of clusters, described in the literature is not verified here. The storm sequencing has also been studied: during a cluster, changes in hydrodynamics conditions (rising of the water level and/or wave height) are necessary to provoke a significant erosion of the system by the second storm. In a second time, we studied the seasonal scale dynamic of the beach/dune system (winter and summer seasons) with the purpose to highlight dominant processes involved at this timescale. Beach response to winter seasons not only depends on hydrodynamic conditions and previous beach profile, but also on erosion/recovery event sequencing, post-storm recovery, cross-shore and longshore sediment transport, the barline characteristics and RIP current positions. Summer seasons are here defined by the berm reconstruction. Recovery periods are both linked to hydrodynamic conditions and barline characteristics (e.g. position and shape).The study of successive winters and summers allowed us to identify interactions between seasons, and the influence of short-scale dynamics on the seasonal one. It also emphasizes the impact of urbanism and coastal management strategies on the system’s response, at different timescales.

O presente trabalho propõe caracterizar a variabilidade espaço temporal dos prismas praias das praias do Lázaro, Domingas Dias e Sununga em relação às variáveis meteorológicas e oceanográficas, condicionadas pela passagem dos sistemas frontais, proporcionando à compreensão da evolução morfológica deste segmento costeiro da Enseada da Fortaleza e facilitar os próximos estudos para outras enseadas do litoral Norte do Estado de São Paulo. Para a caracterização morfodinâmica da face praial das praias da Sununga, Lázaro e Domingas Dias, no município de Ubatuba, São Paulo, foi utilizado o método de caminhamento com o uso de equipamento de precisão em posicionamento geográfico (DGPS), análises meteorológicas, análises granulométricas e modelo de padrão de incidência de ondas. Os principais resultados encontrados colaboraram para concluir que as praias do Lázaro, Domingas Dias e Sununga, embora estejam inseridas na mesma enseada, e possuam as mesmas características geológicas, meteorológicas e oceanográficas, se comportam de maneiras distintas frente aos processos dinâmicos de ondas geradas nos sistemas frontais, e nos sistemas de \"tempo bom\", devido ao nível de exposição a que ficam submetidos seus arcos praiais a incidência de ondas provenientes de distintas direções. O acompanhamento espaço temporal das três praias da enseada da Fortaleza, todas com suas faces praiais voltadas rumo aos quadrantes a sul, sob as mesmas condicionantes de origem climática, geológica, oceanográfica e antrópica, evidenciaram que a intensidade dos processos de perda e recuperação sedimentar destas praias não dependem apenas do grau de proteção, ou exposição, destes ambientes a ação mais direta das ondas mais esbeltas, mais energéticas, mas também da possibilidade de remobilização de sedimentos dentro do próprio prisma praial. / The purpose of this research is to characterize the spatio-temporal variability of Lázaro, Domingas Dias and Sununga\"s beaches, in Ubatuba, São Paulo, in relation to oceanographic and meteorological variables, conditional on the passage of frontal systems, to provide the understanding of the morphology evolution of this coastal segment of Fortaleza Bay, and to facilitate future studies on other bays of the northern coast of São Paulo. To characterize the morphodynamics of those beaches, we used the method of beach profile with precision equipment in geographical positioning (DGPS), meteorological and gain-size analyses and coastal modeling system (SMC). The main results collaborated to the conclusion that, although these beaches are inserted in the same cove and have the same geological, meteorological and oceanographic characteristics, they behave differently when compared to the dynamic processes of waves generated in frontal systems, and the \"good weather\" systems, due to the level of exposure of their bows beaches to waves originated from different directions, showing that the intensity of the loss and recovery of these sedimentary beaches not only depend on the degree of protection or exposure of these environments to the more direct action of more slender and more energy waves, but also on the possibility of remobilization of sediments inside the own praial prism.

Les rivières présentent généralement un lit ondulé dû à la présence de bancs, qui correspondent à des larges dépôts sédimentaires alternant avec des zones profondes (mouilles). Des travaux d'ingénierie importants et répétés modifiant la géométrie du cours d'eau, le régime hydraulique et l'apport sédimentaire peuvent à terme modifier la dynamique des bancs à l'échelle de la rivière. Une meilleure compréhension des processus liés aux bancs est importante pour les gestionnaires des rivières, car les bancs contrôlent activement la morphologie du lit et érodent les berges, impactant la navigation, les prises d'eaux, les ouvrages et la qualité des habitats. Même si les mécanismes régissant la formation et le développement des bancs sont bien compris, la compréhension de la morphodynamique des bancs en milieu fluvial reste limitée, en raison de la non-linéarité induite par la combinaison de facteurs naturels en atrophiques. La non-uniformité des sédiments est une caractéristique inhérente des rivières, mais son impact sur la propriété des bancs, même dans des cas simplifiés, reste obscure. Ce travail de thèse vise à étudier l'impact de l'hétérogénéité granulométrique sur des bancs dans des chenaux endigués, via l'utilisation d'un modèle morphodynamique bi-dimensionnel implémenté dans le système Telemac-Mascaret. Les développements numériques nécessaires sont apportés afin d'être en accord avec l'état de l'art sur la modélisation de bancs avec un sédiment-non-uniforme. Par la suite, ce modèle est utilisé pour l'étude de la morphodynamique des bancs dans un chenal rectiligne sur la base d'expériences réalisées en laboratoire. Finalement, l'analyse est transférée sur un tronçon de 1 km de la Loire, caractérisé par sa géométrie relativement complexe. Les résultats permettent de valider l'approche de modélisation et démontrent la portabilité pour d'autres études, apportent plus d'éléments sur la relation entre sédiment non-uniforme et les bancs, et pourront être utilisés pour préconiser les gestionnaires des rivières / Rivers often present a wavy bed topography due to the presence of bars, corresponding to large sediment deposits alternating with deeper areas (pools). Intense and continual river engineering works altering the river geometry, flow regime and sediment supply can impact bar morphodynamics at the reach scale. A deep knowledge of bar processes is important for river managers, because bars actively control the river bed topography and influence bank erosion, with consequences for navigation, water intakes, infrastructure and the quality of their habitats. Although the origin of bar formation and propagation is well understood, the understanding of bar morphodynamics in rivers remains limited due to the non-linearity of combined natural and anthropogenic effects. Sediment non-uniformity is an inherent characteristic of rivers, but its impact on bar properties, even considering simple configurations, is still unclear. This Ph.D. thesis aims at investigating the impact of sediment size heterogeneity on bars in rivers with non-erodible banks, using a two-dimensional morphodynamic model implemented in the Telemac-Mascaret system. The necessary model developments are brought to comply with the state of the art on the modelling of heterogeneous sediment with bars. Then, the model is used to study bar morphodynamics in a straight channel on the basis of laboratory experiments. Eventually, the analysis is transferred in a 1 km reach of the Loire river characterized by a relatively complex geometry. General outcomes validate the modelling approach and demonstrate the application portability for other study cases, shed more light on the relationship between non-uniform sediment and bars, and can be later used as recommendations for river managers.

People relate with one another in space and through imagined and technologically mediated networks. This thesis is concerned with the relationship between these two types of social connections – spatial and network. Spatial connections structure collectives of people in the same place at the same time. Network connections structure relations between people without regard to place or time. Spatial connections are complex, but rigid by nature, while network connections are simple, but flexible. Essential articulations emerge between these two connection types. These articulations create and evolve contemporary socio-spatial systems such as the city, its many places, and groups of people therein. However, the basic human experience of these systems remains largely polarized between spatial and network social practices to the disadvantage of human agency. This thesis proposes a teleodynamic, socio-spatial interaction model for the articulation of these social practices in human agency architecture. The model is a mobile experience design that functions through people with ‘smart’ mobile devices. It connects them with one another in public place and to global information and communication networks simultaneously. Sociological study informs the model’s design – constraints and conditions for the connection extents and integrity of social interaction. The model supports self-organizing circular relationships between human interaction dynamics and their trace structures based on a methodology for emergence in complex systems. It effects the emergence of the aforementioned socio-spatial, human agency architecture, with great flexibility. The model and architecture together serve to better articulate contemporary spatial and network social practices to the benefit of human agency in urban space.