Large-scale bed features are often encountered in coastal waters, and include sandbanks and spoil heaps. The morphodynamic development of such features involves complicated nonlinear interactions between the flow hydrodynamics, sediment transport, and bed profile. Numerical modelling of the morphodynamic evolution and migration of large-scale bed features is necessary in order to understand their long-term behaviour in response to changing environmental conditions. This thesis describes detailed measurements of the morphodynamics of sand mounds in unidirectional and oscillatory (tidal) flows, undertaken at the U.K. Coastal Research Facility (UKCRF). High quality data were collected, including water velocities, water levels and overhead images. The parameters tested are: three types of mound shape (circular and elliptical in plan shape, and Gaussian, cosine and triangular in cross-section); underlying fixed or mobile bed conditions; and initial crest height (submerged, surface-touching and surface-piercing). Peak flow velocities are about 0.5 m/s, the sand median grain size is 0.454 mm, and transport occurring mostly as bedload. When analysing the data, the bed contours are determined by digitising the shoreline at different water levels. From these plots, the volume, height, and centroid position of the mound are calculated. A large-scale fit method, based on a Gaussian function has been used to separate small-scale ripples from the large-scale bed structure during the evolution of an isolated sand mound or spoil heap. The bed profile after the ripples are removed is comparable to typical predictions by shallow-flow numerical solvers. The UKCRF experiments investigated the morphodynamic response of a bed mound to hydrodynamic forcing: shape changes, migration rates, volume decay and sediment transport rates. The measured migration rate and decay of a submerged sand mound in the UKCRF are found to be in satisfactory agreement with results from various theoretical models, such as the analytical solution derived by De Vriend. Numerical predictions of mound evolution by a commercial code, PISCES, are also presented for a fully submerged sand mound; the bed evolution is reasonably similar to that observed in the UKCRF. The data provided as a result of the research reported in this thesis provide insight into the behaviour of sand mounds in steady and unsteady flows at laboratory scale, and should also be useful for benchmark (validation) purposes to numerical modellers of large-scale morphodynamics.

La plupart des côtes de la Terre reculent et 80% sont rocheuses. La prévision du recul des falaises littorales est primordiale afin d’anticiper les risques futurs pour les aménagements littoraux. Cependant, la compréhension de ce recul est difficile car de nombreux paramètres le contrôlent. Des expériences en canal à houle de petite échelle ont été effectuées où nous avons mis en place un massif de sable humide soumis à l’attaque des vagues par sapement. Le but est de comprendre comment l’effet des vagues contrôle l’érosion des falaises. La technique de mesure par ombroscopie a été employée et nous a permis de détecter la surface du sable et la surface libre en fonction du temps. Nous avons ainsi analysé l’influence du forçage des vagues (F, ξ) (où F est le flux d’énergie des vagues incidentes au large et ξ est le paramètre de similitude de “surf”) sur la vitesse de recul de la falaise et sur la profondeur des évènements d’effondrement. La vitesse de recul de la falaise augmente linéairement avec le flux d’énergie F. Les débris de falaise érodés changent la morphologie du fond, les types de morphologie du fond dépendent fortement du paramètre de similitude de “surf” au déferlement, ou encore du paramètre de Dean Ω. Des profils du fond instationnaires présentant une oscillation auto-entretenue de la barre sédimentaire ont été observés. Nous avons de plus étudié l’effet de la granulométrie du sable utilisé : pour un sable plus fin, la falaise est plus cohésive et s’effondre au cours d’évènements de plus grande ampleur. Etonnamment, le recul de la falaise est plus important pour du sable fin. Ceci est probablement dû à une modification de la morphologie du fond conduisant à une dissipation de l’énergie des vagues moins importante. Le volume de sable injecté dans le système a finalement été quantifié, la barre sédimentaire a d’abord été prélevée périodiquement et il a été observé que la vitesse de recul de la falaise vr est constante. Puis, la hauteur de falaise a été modifiée, le recul des falaises est plus important pour des petites falaises. Il semblerait que l’instationnarité d’un profil du fond se déclenche à partir d’un volume seuil de sable érodé. / Most of the Earth coasts recedes and 80 % are rocky. Prediction of sea-cliff recession is essential to anticipate future risks for coastal development. However, it is difficult to understand this recession because many parameters control it. In addition, both the space and time scales are too big for the different mechanisms of cliff erosion to be fully analysed. Experiments in a small-scale wave flume were conducted in which a massif made of wet sand is submitted to wave attack. The aim is to understand how cliff erosion is wave-controlled. The technique of shadow graph measurements was used to detect the time evolution of sand and water surfaces. We have analyzed the influence of wave forcing (F, ξ) (where F is the incident offshore wave energy flux and ξ is the surf similarity parameter) on the cliff recession rate and on collapse event size. The cliff recession rate increases linearly with the wave energy flux F. The eroded cliff materials change the bottom morphology ; the types of bottom morphology strongly depend on the surf similarity parameter at the breaker point, or the Dean parameter Ω. Bottom profiles characterized by unsteady self-sustained sandbar oscillation were observed. In addition, we studied how sand granulometry change the system evolution. Finer the sand is, more cohesive is the cliff and bigger are cliff collapses. Contrary to what was expected, cliff recession is more important for a finer sand : this could be due to a more dissipative bottom morphology built by fine sands. The sand volume within the system changes following cliff collapses and a sandbar removal during particular experiments. The cliff recession rate is constant when the sandbar is removed and decreases with cliff height. It seems that the unsteadiness of the bottom profile is activated when the volume of eroded sand exceeds a threshold value.

Cross-shore bathymetric evolution in the nearshore zone often leads to threatening consequences such as beach erosion and shoreline retreat that concern the coastal community. A new, comprehensive cross-shore morphodynamic model was developed that can be used to describe and predict these phenomena. The study included both physical and numerical models that were designed to focus on the influence of sediment size characteristics on the cross-shore sediment transport process. For a profile equilibrium timescale, three types of beach profiles with different sediment mixtures were simulated in a small-scale, random-wave flume laboratory using erosive, storm, and accretive wave conditions. Dynamic relationships between the sediment grain sorting and beach profile changes were found to be evident as size-graded sediment fractions tended to relocate to different energetic zones along the cross-shore profiles. Existing phase-averaged wave and circulation models were utilized together with several new intra-wave modules for predicting important hydrodynamic parameters that were validated using the experimental data. A novel, multi-size sediment transport model was formulated to compute individual transport rates of size-graded sediment fractions while accounting for their interaction and non-linear size dependencies. The model was coupled with a new grain sorting model that resolves cross-shore grain sorting and vertical grain lamination. Compared to a traditional modeling approach, the new comprehensive model proved to offer superior modeling accuracy for both profile evolution and sediment grain size change. The use of the model is most advantageous for a condition with intensive grain sorting, a common scenario on a natural beach profile. Equilibrium beach profile is also better simulated by the model as size-graded fractions are predicted to relocate to different zones where they could withstand local hydrodynamics. Other new components that also help improve the modeling capability include the terms for wave-breaking and bed-slope effects, wave-crest sediment flux, and acceleration-induced bottom-shear stress. Besides superior profile modeling accuracy, sediment size characteristics and their spatial and temporal variations are also a useful set of information provided by the new model.

A coastal lagoon is a landform that is influenced by natural processes and human activities. All human activities at the upstream, particularly agriculture and cultivation bring soil, waste, and other materials to the downstream area through the river drains into the lagoon. Even though its position is inland of water bodies, the lagoon is still affected by waves and winds from the sea. Additionally, coastal lagoon will be the depository place for sedimentation from the upland area. Segara Anakan (SA), which is located in Indonesia, is an example of a coastal lagoon area, which has a unique biophysical characteristic. The region has a great natural ability to ensure the sustainability of the interrelationships between terrestrial, estuarine and marine ecosystems in harmony and balance as a habitat for flora and fauna. The region is an area of migration of various types of protected animals and it is a place of breeding for diverse species of the shrimp and fish, which have a highly economical value. Segara Anakan lagoon (SAL), currently experiencing acceleration narrowed on its area due to a very intensive sedimentation from the mainland. The research aims to answer the question of how ecological dynamic occurs in the SAL area due to sedimentation. Achieving the objectives of this study required examining the morphology and land use changes with multitemporal remote sensing approaches. While, to assess the role of community participation and planning management strategies is using qualitative descriptive methods and SWOT analyze. The using of multitemporal remote sensing Landsat images is possible to analyze the morphological and land use changes with different time and sensors. These Landsat has image accuracy about 92.66%. It can be used for image interpretations resulting 13 classes of land use. The morphodynamics of SAL indicated by the changes of area of lagoon and accreted land and also the distance of coastlines during the periods 1979-2013. In addition, the land use or land cover also changes during that time. The bigger portions of land use changes are in the tropical and mangrove\'s forests. There are distinctive forms of participation in conservation efforts. The upstream community involvement in conservation tends to be different participating in the way of ideas, money, materials, properties, skills and expertise or social activities. In addition, the community at downstream area has a sufficiently high level of participation in environmental conservation. There are also strong relationships between the level of education and level of income and basic knowledge in conservation with the participation of SA conservation. The ecological dynamics of the SAL area are described with a historical time line. It is divided into three time periods: the 1970s - 1980s, the 1990s and from 2000 onwards. Each of these has occurrences that can lead to changes in the environment. The implementation of appropriate conservation technique can reduce the sedimentation rate. Hence, the synergic coordination measures between upstream and downstream regions are necessary in the future. Increasing community awareness and participation in the conservation by improving educational sector, providing information, and applying sustainable development land use are the ways to match human activities with the temporal and spatial dynamics of the coastal resources.

Made available in DSpace on 2015-03-13T17:08:35Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 JuliaVM_DISSERT.pdf: 4236567 bytes, checksum: be73f658e3777fffb5d25f1a4d23b8d3 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2012-09-06 / Coordena??o de Aperfei?oamento de Pessoal de N?vel Superior / This study analyzed measurements of the aeolian transport using vertical sand traps across the field dunes of Jenipabu, in the municipality of Extremoz, Rio Grande do Norte state to the North of Natal city. These measurements were used as parameters for the sand aeolian transport in the region. Before the field trips a map of landscape units was made. Three visits to the field were done in September 2011 (field a - the 13th, field b - the 21st, field c - the 29th), period of the year with the highest wind speed, and another in December 8th, 2011 (field d ) when the wind speed starts to decrease. The sand traps used were of the type "I" with collecting opening of 25 cm from the surface level, and type "S" with collecting opening of 25 cm located 25 cm from the surface level in six collecting points in two of the visits (fields a and d ), and sand traps of the type "T" with the collecting opening of 50 cm from the surface level in the other field trips (fields "b" and "c"). A set of records was also collected by using a portable meteorological station complemented with information such as frequency and intensity of winds, precipitation and relative air humidity in the region, from the Esta??o Meteorol?gica de Natal , located 12 km from the study area. The sediments collected were treated and the data obtained permitted calculating the ratio of sediment transport. In September, the sedimentation ratio varied from 0.01 to 11.39 kg.m-1.h-1 and in December this ratio varied from 0.33 to 1.30 kg.m-1.h-1 in the type T collectors. In type I collectors they ranged from 0.01 to 11.39 kg.m-1.h-1, while the same parameters varied from 0.01 to 0.73 kg.m-1.h-1 in type S collector. Based on the statistical analysis done, we concluded that the sediment transport increased proportionally to the wind speed 25 cm from the surface. However, this is not true above 25 cm from the surface. The transport of sediments is more intense near the surface where sedimentation ratios greater than 10 kg.m-1.h-1 were found, whilst a maximum value of 3 kg.m-1.h-1 was observed 25 cm below the surface. The volume of sediments collected increases with the increasing wind speed at the surface level, whereas this relationship is opposed far away from that surface / O presente estudo fez a an?lise de medidas de transporte e?lico utilizando coletores de areia verticais (Sand Traps) ao longo de um campo de dunas na praia de Jenipabu, munic?pio de Extremoz no estado do Rio Grande do Norte ao Norte da cidade de Natal. Estas medidas foram utilizadas como par?metro de avalia??o da movimenta??o e?lica nesta regi?o. Tr?s visitas a campo foram realizadas no m?s de setembro de 2011 nos dias 13 (campo "a"), 21 (campo "b") e 29 (campo "c"), per?odo do ano com maiores velocidades de vento e uma em dezembro de 2011 no dia 08 (campo "d"), per?odo onde a velocidade do vento come?a a diminuir. Utilizaram-se coletores tipo "I" com abertura de 25 cm a partir do n?vel da superf?cie e "S" com abertura de 25 cm a 25 cm da superf?cie em seis pontos de coleta em duas das visitas ? campo nos dias 13 de setembro (campo "a") e 08 de dezembro (campo "d"), e tipo "T" com abertura de 50 cm a partir do n?vel da superf?cie nas demais visitas 21 e 29 de setembro (campo "b" e "c") ao longo do Campo de Dunas de Jenipabu. Foram tamb?m coletados dados meteorol?gicos com a utiliza??o de esta??o meteorol?gica port?til e complementados com dados da Esta??o Meteorol?gica de Natal que est? localizada a cerca de 12 km da ?rea de estudo para obter informa??es sobre a frequ?ncia e intensidade dos ventos, precipita??o e umidade relativa do ar da regi?o. Os sedimentos coletados foram tratados e foi calculada a vaz?o de fluxo de sedimentos (taxa de sedimenta??o). Em setembro a taxa sedimenta??o variou de 0,01 at? 11,39 Kg m-1 h-1 e em dezembro entre 0,33 e 1,30 Kg. m-1. h-1 nos coletores tipo "T". Nos coletores tipo "I" esses valores variaram entre 0,01 e 11,39 Kg m-1 h-1, enquanto que nos coletores tipo "S" de 0,01 a 0.73 Kg. m-1. h-1. De acordo com a an?lise estat?stica realisada percebe-se que o transporte de sedimento aumentou proporcionalmente a velocidade do vento em at? 25 cm da superf?cie. Por?m, essa rela??o n?o ? verdadeira acima de 25 cm do n?vel da superf?cie. O transporte de sedimentos ? mais intenso mais pr?ximo ? superf?cie onde foram encontradas taxas de sedimenta??o maiores que 10Kg. m-1. h-1 enquanto que a 25cm de dist?ncia o m?ximo encontrado foi menor que 3Kg. m-1. h-1, a quantidade de sedimento coletados aumenta ? medida que aumenta a velocidade no n?vel da superf?cie, ao se afastar da superf?cie a quantidade de sedimento essa rela??o n?o ? verdadeira

Les deltas fluviaux sont des écosystèmes riches et vulnérables. Les apports de sédiments fluviaux assurent leur développement face à la subsidence et l’érosion induite par les agents marins. Les deltas sont principalement exposés à des crues et des submersions marines. Pourtant, ils restent des lieux stratégiques de peuplement, de production économique et d’enjeux géopolitiques, les rendant d’autant plus vulnérables et exposés aux risques. Cette thèse a pour objectif de cerner le fonctionnement passé et actuel de ces systèmes à partir de l’analyse de soixante deltas et d’une approche holistique systémique, à l’aide de données spatiales, environnementales et sociétales. Après l’étude de l’évolution côtière récente montrant une tendance à la diminution de la progradation de nombreux deltas, une classification conceptuelle et qualitative de la morphologie des deltas axée sur les influences fluviomarines a été conduite. La mise à jour de cette classification et la proposition de nouvelles approches, en termes de morphologie, de dynamique et de vulnérabilité, ont nécessité une revue des acquis antérieurs, une quantification de l’influence du fleuve, de la houle et de la marée, et une approche quantitative qui a mis en évidence la complexité des interactions. Le travail débouche sur une nouvelle classification quantitative et objective. La thèse compare aussi les réponses deltaïques à des perturbations exceptionnelles, montrant les limites de la résilience deltaïque. Elle renseigne sur l'impact anthropique sur ces espaces fragiles fortement dépendants de l’apport sédimentaire. Cet équilibre est d’autant plus fragilisé aujourd’hui par les impacts du changement climatique. / River deltas are rich and fragile ecosystems. Deltas depend on fluvial sediment supply to balance natural subsidence and erosion caused by waves and currents. Deltas are mainly affected by river flooding, marine submersion. However, deltas are strategic sites of human settlement, economic hotspots, and geopolitical issues. This attraction increases the pressure, rendering these deltas more and more exposed to risks and vulnerable.The main objective of this thesis is to analyze the past and present functional dynamics of delta shorelines based on 60 of the world’s deltas and a holistic and systemic approach with spatial, environmental, and societal data. After the study of recent coastal evolution showing a tendency to decreasing progradation of many deltas, a conceptual and qualitative classification of deltaic morphology based on fluviomarine influences was conducted. Updating of this classification and the proposal of new approaches, in terms of morphology, dynamics, and vulnerability, have necessitated revisiting these older schemes, and the adoption of a methodological and interpretative approach aimed at quantification of the weight of each of these three parameters showing the complexity of the interactions. The thesis proposes a new quantitative and objective classificatory framework, including the human dimension. Finally, the thesis highlights the responses of deltaic shorelines to exceptional perturbations, and highlights the limits of resilience. The thesis advises over the impact of humans on these fragile coastal environments, the equilibrium of which strongly depends on sediment supply. This fragility is further exacerbated by the impacts of climate change.

Saltmarshes provide a diverse range of ecosystem services and are protected under a number of international designations. Nevertheless they are generally declining in extent in the United Kingdom and North West Europe. The drivers of this decline are complex and poorly understood. When considering mitigation and management for future ecosystem service provision it will be important to understand why, where, and to what extent decline is likely to occur. Few studies have attempted to forecast saltmarsh morphodynamics at a system level over decadal time scales. There is no synthesis of existing knowledge available for specific site predictions nor is there a formalised framework for individual site assessment and management. This project evaluates the extent to which machine learning model approaches (boosted regression trees, neural networks and Bayesian networks) can facilitate synthesis of information and prediction of decadal-scale morphological tendencies of saltmarshes. Importantly, data-driven predictions are independent of the assumptions underlying physically-based models, and therefore offer an additional opportunity to crossvalidate between two paradigms. Marsh margins and interiors are both considered but are treated separately since they are regarded as being sensitive to different process suites. The study therefore identifies factors likely to control morphological trajectories and develops geospatial methodologies to derive proxy measures relating to controls or processes. These metrics are developed at a high spatial density in the order of tens of metres allowing for the resolution of fine-scale behavioural differences. Conventional statistical approaches, as have been previously adopted, are applied to the dataset to assess consistency with previous findings, with some agreement being found. The data are subsequently used to train and compare three types of machine learning model. Boosted regression trees outperform the other two methods in this context. The resulting models are able to explain more than 95% of the variance in marginal changes and 91% for internal dynamics. Models are selected based on validation performance and are then queried with realistic future scenarios which represent altered input conditions that may arise as a consequence of future environmental change. Responses to these scenarios are evaluated, suggesting system sensitivity to all scenarios tested and offering a high degree of spatial detail in responses. While mechanistic interpretation of some responses is challenging, process-based justifications are offered for many of the observed behaviours, providing confidence that the results are realistic. The work demonstrates a potentially powerful alternative (and complement) to current morphodynamic models that can be applied over large areas with relative ease, compared to numerical implementations. Powerful analyses with broad scope are now available to the field of coastal geomorphology through the combination of spatial data streams and machine learning. Such methods are shown to be of great potential value in support of applied management and monitoring interventions.

Bedrock islands add variation to the estuarine system that results in deviations from typical unconfined estuarine sediment transport patterns. Limited literature exists regarding the dynamics of seabed morphology, delta formation, sediment divergence patterns, and sedimentary facies classifications of non-fjordic bedrock confined systems. Such knowledge is critical to address coastal management concerns adequately. This research presents insights from the Skeena Estuary, a macrotidal estuary in northwestern Canada with a high fluvial sediment input (21.2-25.5 Mtyr-1). Descriptions on sub-environments, stratification, and sediment accumulation within the Skeena Estuary utilize HydroTrend model outputs of riverine sediment and discharge, Natural Resources Canada radiocarbon-dated sediment cores and grain size samples, and acoustic Doppler current profiler and conductivity-temperature-depth measurements from three field campaigns. Research findings delineate a fragmented delta structure with elongated mudflats and select areas of slope instability. Variations from well-mixed water circulation to lateral stratification, govern the slack tide flow transition and sediment transport pathways within seaward and landward passages of the estuary. Fostering a comprehensive understanding of bedrock confined estuary and delta systems has implications for the assessment of coastal management strategies, the productivity of ecological habitats, and the impacts of climate change within coastal areas. / Graduate

A coastal lagoon is a landform that is influenced by natural processes and human activities. All human activities at the upstream, particularly agriculture and cultivation bring soil, waste, and other materials to the downstream area through the river drains into the lagoon. Even though its position is inland of water bodies, the lagoon is still affected by waves and winds from the sea. Additionally, coastal lagoon will be the depository place for sedimentation from the upland area. Segara Anakan (SA), which is located in Indonesia, is an example of a coastal lagoon area, which has a unique biophysical characteristic. The region has a great natural ability to ensure the sustainability of the interrelationships between terrestrial, estuarine and marine ecosystems in harmony and balance as a habitat for flora and fauna. The region is an area of migration of various types of protected animals and it is a place of breeding for diverse species of the shrimp and fish, which have a highly economical value. Segara Anakan lagoon (SAL), currently experiencing acceleration narrowed on its area due to a very intensive sedimentation from the mainland. The research aims to answer the question of how ecological dynamic occurs in the SAL area due to sedimentation. Achieving the objectives of this study required examining the morphology and land use changes with multitemporal remote sensing approaches. While, to assess the role of community participation and planning management strategies is using qualitative descriptive methods and SWOT analyze. The using of multitemporal remote sensing Landsat images is possible to analyze the morphological and land use changes with different time and sensors. These Landsat has image accuracy about 92.66%. It can be used for image interpretations resulting 13 classes of land use. The morphodynamics of SAL indicated by the changes of area of lagoon and accreted land and also the distance of coastlines during the periods 1979-2013. In addition, the land use or land cover also changes during that time. The bigger portions of land use changes are in the tropical and mangrove\''s forests. There are distinctive forms of participation in conservation efforts. The upstream community involvement in conservation tends to be different participating in the way of ideas, money, materials, properties, skills and expertise or social activities. In addition, the community at downstream area has a sufficiently high level of participation in environmental conservation. There are also strong relationships between the level of education and level of income and basic knowledge in conservation with the participation of SA conservation. The ecological dynamics of the SAL area are described with a historical time line. It is divided into three time periods: the 1970s - 1980s, the 1990s and from 2000 onwards. Each of these has occurrences that can lead to changes in the environment. The implementation of appropriate conservation technique can reduce the sedimentation rate. Hence, the synergic coordination measures between upstream and downstream regions are necessary in the future. Increasing community awareness and participation in the conservation by improving educational sector, providing information, and applying sustainable development land use are the ways to match human activities with the temporal and spatial dynamics of the coastal resources.

Although the physical characteristics of surfing breaks are well described in the literature, there is little specific research on surfing and coastal management. Such research is required because coastal engineering has had significant impacts to surfing breaks, both positive and negative. Strategic planning and environmental impact assessment methods, a central tenet of integrated coastal zone management (ICZM), are recommended by this thesis to maximise surfing amenities. The research reported here identifies key oceanographic considerations required for ICZM around surfing breaks including: surfing wave parameters; surfing break components; relationship between surfer skill, surfing manoeuvre type and wave parameters; wind effects on waves; currents; geomorphic surfing break categorisation; beach-state and morphology; and offshore wave transformations. Key coastal activities that can have impacts to surfing breaks are identified. Environmental data types to consider during coastal studies around surfing breaks are presented and geographic information systems (GIS) are used to manage and interpret such information. To monitor surfing breaks, a shallow water multibeam echo sounding system was utilised and a RTK GPS water level correction and hydrographic GIS methodology developed. Including surfing in coastal management requires coastal engineering solutions that incorporate surfing. As an example, the efficacy of the artificial surfing reef (ASR) at Mount Maunganui, New Zealand, was evaluated. GIS, multibeam echo soundings, oceanographic measurements, photography, and wave modelling were all applied to monitor sea floor morphology around the reef. Results showed that the beach-state has more cellular circulation since the reef was installed, and a groin effect on the offshore bar was caused by the structure within the monitoring period, trapping sediment updrift and eroding sediment downdrift. No identifiable shoreline salient was observed. Landward of the reef, a scour hole ~3 times the surface area of the reef has formed. The current literature on ASRs has primarily focused on reef shape and its role in creating surfing waves. However, this study suggests that impacts to the offshore bar, beach-state, scour hole and surf zone hydrodynamics should all be included in future surfing reef designs. More real world reef studies, including ongoing monitoring of existing surfing reefs are required to validate theoretical concepts in the published literature.