Made available in DSpace on 2014-12-17T14:35:48Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 MariaGF_Capa_ate_parte_1.pdf: 498896 bytes, checksum: 914a9b87fd7f84c3792ca757879da202 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2007-12-20 / This research work deals with the compilation of a dictionary on clothing terminology intended to be used as a pedagogic tool as part of the teaching and learning process in the Textile Engineering Course at the Federal University of Rio Grande do Norte. The main terms were selected and assessed by a team of textile teachers and students with the objective to be structured as a conceptual body of information on the following sub-areas of clothing terminology: materials (fabrics and trimmings) and products (garments). This research comprises three main steps: (a) characterization and understanding of the technical vocabulary in the clothing area as well as the identification of a pedagogic demand for a dictionary on clothing terminology, clearly expressed by the textile lecturers and students involved in the assessment of the need and validation of this project development; (b) a proposal for a specific methodology for the compilation of the dictionary which could help the communication process in the lecturing of clothing terminology and (c) based on the terminological principles and the technique of focal groups the dictionary was assessed. The technique of focal groups was used in the first step. In the second step the technique used was that of the terminological methodology adapted to the teaching approach in the Textile Course. In the third step the technique of focal groups was again utilized. It was observed that the main concern of lecturers and students is the lack of a standardized vocabulary, which renders difficult the communication process in both the teaching and learning activities as well as the professional ones in the textile industries. Various aspects, which can overlap, cause this lack of standardization. The main ones pointed out by the study team in the focal groups are: usage of regional words or expressions, usage of foreign words or expressions, analogies, and the low level of formal education, mainly among the industry workers. Another aspect to be considered is the lack of textile literature written in the Portuguese language of Brazil. This evidence shows the importance of a clothing terminology dictionary which will benefit both the education and professional activties in this field of knowledge. This dictionary will also give a substantial contribution to terminological standardization in our research field. With view to fulfill this demand, a dictionary of clothing terminology was compiled with 760 main entries, according to the modern practice in terminology with the necessary modifications concerning our needs. The result of the dictionary assessment was very assertive regarding its structure, contents and possible use in various contexts. The team work emphasized their contribution to the standardization process of the terms that proved to be one of the most important and difficult aspects of this researh work. The significance of this structured terminological dictionary was confirmed by the focal group participants relating to its use for teaching and learning activities, as a reference book, as a source of technical information and also as a tool for pedagogic studies and planning, as well as a significant collaboration to the pedagogic practices in the textile engineering course at University or any other educational institution. Besides, this dictionary can also be used to supply information within the textile field. We are aware that the present work will not exhaust the objectives of this research due to its limitations in opposition to the vast complexity demanded by the compilation of a complete work including all the areas and sub-areas of textile engineering. However, it is an important source for dissemination of concepts on the field of clothing terminology and a tool to effective standardization of the terms used in this subject field / Esta pesquisa trata do vocabul?rio t?cnico t?xtil, especialmente na ?rea do vestu?rio, utilizado como instrumento did?tico no processo ensino-aprendizagem do curso de Engenharia T?xtil, da Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Norte. Esse vocabul?rio foi criteriosamente examinado com o prop?sito de ser conceituado e contextualizado, nas sub?reas do vestu?rio, materiais (tecidos e aviamentos) e produtos (pe?as do vestu?rio), e, para isso, propomos um dicion?rio terminol?gico, justificado e avaliado por professores e alunos. Assim, a pesquisa comporta tr?s etapas principais: (a) caracteriza??o da percep??o do vocabul?rio t?cnico da ?rea do vestu?rio, e identifica??o de uma demanda pedag?gica formulada por professores e alunos da ?rea t?xtil: a necessidade de um dicion?rio t?cnico do vestu?rio; (b) proposta de uma metodologia, e elabora??o de um produto concreto, para suprir essa demanda: um dicion?rio de terminologia do vestu?rio; (c) avalia??o desse produto por professores e alunos da ?rea. Aplicamos a abordagem qualitativa, fundamentada nos princ?pios Terminologia e a na t?cnica de Grupo Focal. Para a primeira etapa, utilizamos a t?cnica dos grupos focais. Na segunda etapa, utilizamos a metodologia terminol?gica, adaptada ? nossa realidade de ensino. E na execu??o da terceira etapa, recorremos, tamb?m, ? t?cnica dos grupos focais. Constatamos que a principal preocupa??o de professores e alunos converge para a falta de padroniza??o do vocabul?rio, que dificulta a comunica??o, tanto no processo ensino-aprendizagem quanto nas atividades profissionais. As causas da falta de padroniza??o s?o variadas e se sobrep?em, mas foram apontadas entre as principais: os regionalismos, o uso de analogias, os estrangeirismos e a baixa escolaridade. Quanto ? necessidade de um dicion?rio de terminologia do vestu?rio, ficou evidenciada a falta de material bibliogr?fico em portugu?s do Brasil. Tanto professores como alunos mencionaram, repetidamente, a escassez de material t?cnico. Nesse sentido, um dicion?rio t?cnico, adaptado ? nossa realidade, pode representar uma contribui??o substancial para a normaliza??o terminol?gica. Para atender a essa demanda, elaboramos um dicion?rio de terminologia do vestu?rio, com 760 entradas, constru?do conforme os procedimentos da moderna terminologia com os necess?rios ajustes. A avalia??o do dicion?rio foi bastante positiva no que se refere ? sua estrutura, conte?do e usos poss?veis em diversos contextos. Os participantes salientaram sua contribui??o para a padroniza??o do vocabul?rio que, conforme observado se configurava num dos principais problemas. Professores e alunos destacaram sua utilidade para o ensino-aprendizagem, como obra de refer?ncia, fonte de informa??es t?cnicas e instrumento de estudo e planejamento did?tico. Acreditamos que, atrav?s da cria??o do dicion?rio de terminologia do vestu?rio, estamos colaborando de maneira significativa para as pr?ticas pedag?gicas no curso de Engenharia T?xtil. H? ainda, a expectativa de que esse instrumento possa ser ?til ?s demais ?reas t?xtil. Com este trabalho, n?o pretendemos exaurir a pesquisa. Temos consci?ncia de suas limita??es, em contraposi??o ? amplitude e complexidade que exigiria um trabalho terminol?gico que inclu?sse todas as ?reas e sub?reas do curso de Engenharia T?xtil. No entanto, temos a convic??o de que ele poder? servir como uma importante fonte para dissemina??o de conceitos sobre a ?rea do vestu?rio, e, acreditamos, colaborar para a efetiva??o da padroniza??o da terminologia utilizada nessa ?rea

The overarching theme of the thesis concerns the terminology aspect of searchability in digitalised archival data. The aim of the work is to analyse material from two archives (The Institute for Language and Folklore (ISOF) and The Nordic Museum) on the subject of sprang and the names of that technique during the 20th century in a Swedish rural setting. The questions posed to the material concern geographic occurrence, descriptions, confusions due to homonyms, and the origins of names. The theoretical foundation is based in relationships like ideology, gender, and power. The idea of nationalism through symbols like names is used to analyse the material. The method is archival research, based in the two archives and a small case-study of the names used for sprang objects in the database digitaltmuseum.se (containing several Swedish museum collections). Key words are used in the search and in total twenty-six hits are examined. The material is categorised in geographic position, names used, and whether it is sprang or not.  The study finds an occurrence of sprang in a rural context later in time, and further north in geography than the literature on the subject would suggest. The case study shows that some confusion in terminology exists between museums, and sometimes within the collection of a single museum. The study suggests that technical terms should be preferred by institutions rather than rural, folkloric, names.