Reproduction de : Thèse doctorat : Sciences : Automatique : Metz : 2004. / Titre provenant de l'écran-titre. Notes bibliographiques.

John Campbell (1806-1891) was one of about 370 Scottish handloom weavers who brought his technical and professional skills to Ontario in the mid- to late-nineteenth century. From 1859 to 1885, Campbell recorded customer orders for close to 54,000 yards of cloth in a 302-page account book, a document which reveals the relationship between producers and consumers in nineteenth-century rural Ontario. This thesis is a quantitative and qualitative examination of Campbell’s inputs and outputs using his account book, looms and textiles. The analysis of Campbell goes beyond the current historiography of handloom weavers by utilizing evidence from documentary sources and material culture contributing to the larger understanding of a self-employed artisan’s production. The case study of one weaver with this level of detail has not been performed to date and provides an important link for the partnership between handloom weavers and their customers. While Campbell’s customers provided a necessary infrastructure for him to operate by participating in pre- and post-weaving production, Campbell’s presence satisfied his customers’ needs not only for cloth, but a way of life that maintained economic and social stability for men and women in south-western Ontario. This thesis conveys the layers of complexity of weaver, technology and customers at the end of an era for handloom weaving in Ontario.

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Perceived value is important in determining brand loyalty. Although studies have shown that consumers perceived values change over time, understanding which values are influenced by self-image congruity is necessary, because the relationship consumers form with brands they favor will help marketers develop strategies that can motivate their brand loyalty. Therefore, this study sought to assess which perceived values consumers acquire from consumption of their favorite sportswear brand. It also examined the influence of self-image congruity on these values. The objectives of the study were to: identify the perceived value of sportswear brands of college students; investigate the effect of perceived value on brand loyalty; test the mediating effect of the self-concept in the relationship between perceived value and brand loyalty; and identify the relationship among perceived value, self-concept and brand loyalty. An online survey was administered to college students. Data was analyzed using descriptive statistics and multiple regression. The results showed that participants were loyal to their favorite sportswear brands given key values. The study identified two clusters of participants based on their self-image congruity, those with high self-image congruency and those with low self-image congruency. High self-image congruency group considered price and quality value in their favorite sportswear brand. Thus, their brand loyalty was mainly as a result of the price and quality value they got from the brand. The low self-image congruency group considered emotional and price value in their favorite brand. Thus there brand loyalty was mainly due to the emotional value and price value they got from the brand. None of the groups were influenced by social value. Therefore, since the self influences consumption, focusing on marketing strategies that enhance self-image congruity for each of the groups could help companies sustain brand loyalty among their customers given the competitiveness in this retail sector.

Over the last few decades, the global consumption of luxury brands has rapidly ýincreased. ýThere are many internal and external factors that motivate consumers to buy a ýluxury brand. ýAlthough there is some evidence of the impact of functional, social, and ýindividual values on ýluxury purchase intention, little has been done to compare cultures in ýterms of these values, ýespecially in the Middle East. Thus, the purpose of this research ýwas to compare Western and ýMiddle Eastern culture (individualism and collectivism) ýregarding the consumers intention to purchase a luxury brand in terms of ýthree main ývalues (functional, social and individual), while also addressing consumer guilt. ý The data for this study were collected from two countriesthe United States and ýSaudi ýArabia. A total of 478 university students participated in this study via an online ýsurvey: 171 ýfrom the United States and 277 from Saudi Arabia. The reliability of research ýscales was ýassessed ýthrough Cronbachs alpha. Pearsons correlation coefficient was ýapplied to test the correlations ýbetween the study variables. Data was assessed using ýSEM. Before testing the proposed ýstructural model, the measurement model was tested ýby a confirmatory factor analysis using the ýAMOS 21 program. Model fit was assessed ývia the chi-square statistic. The results revealed that ýFunctional and Social values ýsignificantly predicted Luxury Purchase Intention while Individual ýValue did not. ýCultural Dimension did not moderate the relationship between Functional Value ýand ýLuxury Purchase Intention. Individualism moderated the relationship ýbetween ýConspicuousness and Luxury Purchase Intention. The relationship between ýConspicuousness and ýLuxury Purchase Intention was stronger within the high ýindividualism group. Meanwhile, Guilt ýmoderated the relationship between Uniqueness ýand Luxury Purchase Intention. The relationship ýbetween Uniqueness and Purchase ýIntention was stronger within the high guilt group. However, ýCultural Dimension and ýConsumer Guilt did not moderate the relationship between Individual ýValue and Luxury ýPurchase Intention. Attitude toward Luxury did not mediate the relationship ýbetween ýFunctional and Social Value and Luxury Purchase Intention but it is partially mediated ýby ýthe relationship between Individual Values and Luxury Purchase Intentions. These results ýadd ýto the existing literature by addressing consumer guilt and Middle Eastern culture to ýluxury ýmarketing, which can then be used for marketing purposes and to increase the sales ýof luxury ýbrands. Theoretical and practical implications were provided based on the ýresults.ý

Social media is being used as platforms for viral marketing. Although there is some evidence on the usefulness of viral marketing from the marketers perspective, little is known about the motivations, attitudes, and behaviors of consumers engaged in this marketing instrument. As the social media platform continues to grow, understanding the characteristics and motivations of key players is invaluable for marketers and communicators who deal with message strategy and media outreach. Fashion companies have noticed this change and want to be present in the social media in different ways. This research represents a comprehensive attempt to examine the factors that impact on consumer usage of social media and their behavioral intentions to forward fashion viral messages by developing an attitudinal model that integrated uses and gratification theory and elaboration likelihood model; proposing that the relationship is moderated by individual dynamic traits, message traits and consumer fashion traits. Empirical data was collected from a convenience sample of 381 college students in two southeastern universities via an online survey. Validity and reliability of research scales were assessed. Hypothesized relationships and moderating effects were tested using two-step structural equation modeling approach. Within the general model the findings show that individuals will forward a fashion viral message if they have stronger favorable utilitarian and value-expressive attitudes towards the message. Motivations did not significantly impact attitudes of the consumer with an exception of the dimension of interpersonal utility that impacts individuals value expressive attitude. The results of moderating variables indicate that message traits (functional and experiential oriented) impact consumers utilitarian and value-expressive attitudes. In relation to consumer fashion traits, there was no significant difference among consumers with high or low fashion leadership and those with high or low fashion involvement. Individual dynamics traits (viral dynamics and structural social capital) showed some moderating effects on the relationships between motivations and attitudes toward a social media marketing message. The results add to existing literature related to viral marketing and validate the claim that viral marketing can be used for marketing purposes resulting in increased business for firms. Theoretical and practical implications were provided based on research findings.

The purpose of this study is to explore the application of a pre-existing apparel design process model and design framework to the development of a conceptual slow fashion apparel design process and framework. A content analysis of slow design and slow fashion literature identified 38 themes related to specific design criteria, which were applied to design considerations from the Lamb & Kallal Functional, Expressive, and Aesthetic (FEA) model (1992). Additional design considerations were revealed due to the nature of the research topic and relationship to the stages in the applied design framework. For the Slow Fashion Apparel Design model five considerations were established: functional, expressive, aesthetic, designer, and other. The Slow Fashion Apparel Design Framework established six considerations associated with six stages of the apparel design process framework: material, quality, production, design, evaluation, and implementation. Design criteria were placed into each consideration category according to design theory and Lamb & Kallals model and framework. A sample of 71 textiles, apparel design, and merchandising professionals with membership in the International Textiles and Apparel Association completed a survey regarding the application of the design criteria found in the content analysis to the design considerations established using the FEA model. Apparel design participants from the sample who volunteered for a follow-up survey were interviewed regarding creative scholarship and apparel design processes. Analysis of survey and interview results revealed a differentiation in the application of design criteria within the design considerations established for the design process model and design framework. These differentiations were divided into required, highly recommended, and recommended design criteria. The Slow Fashion Apparel Design Process model had 17 design criteria across five considerations distributed into the three levels of importance. The Slow Fashion Apparel Design Framework had 14 design criteria across four considerations distributed into only required and recommended differentiations. It was revealed that evaluation and implementation consideration categories were not included in the design criteria within the Slow Fashion Apparel Design Framework. Further study is needed to seek explanations for this occurrence. Future research will include the application of this conceptual model to develop of a slow fashion apparel collection.