Thèses (M.Sc.)--Université de Sherbrooke (Canada), 1999. / Titre de l'écran-titre (visionné le 20 juin 2006). Publié aussi en version papier.

Texte remanié de: Thèse--Lettres--Paris IV, 1981. / Bibliogr. p. 307-311. Index. Résumé en anglais.

Proefschrift--Universiteit van Amsterdam, 1998. / Bibliogr. p. 272-282. Index. Résumé en anglais.

Cette thèse a pour objectif la compréhension des propriétés mécaniques des composites à base de fibres de lin. Tout d’abord, on s’est focalisé sur les renforts tissés, ayant différents types de fils, structures et traitements, à travers une caractérisation multi-échelle. Les résultats montrent une forte influence du procédé du tissage ainsi que les traitements de désencollage et de séchage sur les propriétés mécaniques. L’étude montre une grande variabilité des propriétés mécaniques à l’échelle fil qui diminue significativement de l’échelle tissu à l’échelle composite où les résultats mettent en évidence des propriétés régulières et reproductibles, équivalentes aux composites à base de fibres synthétiques. Ensuite, cette thèse s’est intéressée aux propriétés mécaniques des renforts à orientation aléatoire, les non tissés. La caractérisation mécanique est réalisée sous forme sèche avec des essais de traction simple, de flexion pour différents lots de non tissé. Egalement, l’étude de la déformabilité des renforts non tissés est effectuée avec des essais d’emboutissage sur des géométries simple (hémisphère) et complexe (boite carrée). S’appuyant sur une approche expérimentale, un protocole de caractérisation est établi afin d’identifier et quantifier la réponse du non tissé lors de la mise en forme. L’apparition de nouveaux phénomènes tels que la variation de la densité locale et le glissement des fibres est observée pour les renforts de type non tissé. La caractérisation a démontré les effets de facteurs comme la géométrie du poinçon, la pression du serre-flan, la densité et la direction du renfort. / This work focuses on understanding the mechanical properties of flax-based composites. First of all, a multi-scale characterization is carried out for oriented fabric with different types of yarns, structures and treatments. Parameters such as the weaving process and the existence of treatments like desizing and drying has a strong impact on the mechanical properties. Furthermore, the results shows a high variability of the mechanical properties at the yarn scale which decreases significantly at the fabric and composite equivalent properties with the synthetic fibres based composites. Secondly, the thesis focused on the mechanical properties of randomly oriented preforms known as nonwovens. The mechanical characterizations of flax fibre nonwoven are carried out with tensile, bending tests in the dry form. Then, forming tests of the non-woven preforms are performed with different geometries. Based on this experimental approach, a characterization protocol is established to identify and quantify their formability behavior. New phenomena such the variation of local density and the slippage of fibres network are observed for this type of reinforcement. The forming behavior depends strongly on the punch geometry, blank-holder, the area density and direction of the preform.

Brand extension and lifestyle branding have been the most commonly used marketing strategies. Unlike other consumer goods, fashion products, or other lifestyle products contains strong meaning of the users identity, thus, once done well, the parent non-fashion brands could benefit from not only the profit generated by the extension, but also creating a closer and stronger relationship with customers. Therefore, the purpose of this research is to examine how fashion product attributes affect consumers behavioral intention towards the fashion extension, to examine how perceived fit and brand extension authenticity affect consumers behavioral intention towards the fashion extensions, to explore the important parent brand factors and examine how these factors affect consumers behavioral intentions of fashion extensions; and to test the influence of ownership status and consumer characteristics on consumers behavioral intension of the fashion extensions. Data was collected through Qualtrics with a national sample. A total of 453 valid responses were collected. Structural equation modeling, factor analysis and MANOVA were used to test the hypotheses. Results show that compared to parent band affect, the other independent factor, brand extension attribute evaluation, contributes a larger portion on brand extension behavioral intention through the mediating effects of fit, brand extension authenticity, and brand extension attitude. Brand extension behavioral intention is directly affected by attitude toward the extension, perceived, and parent brand affect. The results of sub-model testing show that parent brand affect is impacted by other parent brand factors, including parent brand trust, consumer-brand identification, parent brand identity expressiveness, parent brand prestige image, and parent brand quality. Among these factors, parent brand identity expressiveness and consumer-brand identification contributes the largest portion to the parent brand affect, which consequently leads to a favorable brand extension behavioral intention. Parent brand ownership status and consumer characteristics, including brand engagement, product knowledge, and need for self-expression moderate the effects on brand extension behavioral intention. These results provide some suggestions to both brand managers and manufacturers who intend to be licensees of the brands. Future research may focus on emerging market and the impact of cultural differences on consumers perception of fashion extensions, and explore co-branding strategies.

This thesis examines the state penitentiaries of Louisiana, Arkansas, and Texas that became sources of wartime supplies during the Civil War. A shortage of industry in the southwest forced the Confederacy to use all manufactories efficiently. Penitentiary workshops and textile mills supplied a variety of cloth, wood, and iron products, but have received minimal attention in studies of logistics. Penitentiary textile mills became the largest domestic supplier of cloth to Confederate quartermasters, aid societies, citizens, slaves, and indigent families. This study examines how penitentiary workshops converted to wartime production and determines their contribution to the Confederate war effort. The identification of those who produced, purchased, distributed, and used penitentiary goods will enhance our knowledge of overall Confederate supply.

Antropóloga Social / El conocimiento y práctica textil posee larga data y tradición en el área andina. El valor de esta actividad sobrepasa la aparente función utilitaria que le atribuye Occidente, pues los tejidos poseen el rol de lenguaje social que organiza y comunica diversas dimensiones sociales y culturales de las comunidades que los elaboran. En el territorio chileno, las comunidades atacameñas que hilan y elaboran diversos tejidos, se han visto inmersas en un escenario de creciente extracción minera a escala industrial, así como la apertura económica global y el explosivo boom turístico que ha acontecido en Atacama las últimas décadas. Esto ha producido fuertes impactos sociales, culturales y económicos para las comunidades y sus actividades tradicionales

Les caractéristiques mécaniques et le comportement à la déformabilité des renforts sont des connaissances essentielles pour optimiser les procédés de fabrication des composites notamment de formes complexes. Par ailleurs, les propriétés d'usinage des composites déterminent également grandement la performance en service des pièces composites. Cette thèse est consacrée aux trois aspects des procédés de fabrication et d'usinage afin d'explorer les caractéristiques particulières des propriétés mécaniques et des comportements de déformabilité des tissus tressés, qui sont des renforts textiles prometteurs et excellents pour les composites aux formes complexes. Mais également étudier les procédés d'usinage en utilisant la technique du jet d'eau abrasif afin d'améliorer encore l'efficacité de l'usinage sans sacrifier la qualité. Les caractéristiques mécaniques des renforts tressés, en particulier pour les composantes de cisaillement dans le plan, ont d'abord été étudiées et modélisées à partir d’essais de bias-test. Par ailleurs, les tresses triaxiales ont également fait l'objet d'une étude expérimentale de détermination des caractéristiques mécaniques relativement aux paramètres de tressage, tels que l'angle de tressage et le nombre de fils. Le comportement à la déformabilité des tresses triaxiales lors de l’étape de préformage a été analysé et corrélés avec les défauts associés en fonction des différentes conditions du procédé, telles que les pressions appliquées. De plus, l'évolution du comportement à la déformabilité en fonction de l'angle de tressage a été modélisée géométriquement et vérifiée par des résultats expérimentaux. La découpe améliorée multi-passe du jet d'eau abrasif a été introduite dans le processus d'usinage des composites grâce à l'exploration du mécanisme d'enlèvement de matière associée. Il a été conclu expérimentalement qu'une telle technique pouvait améliorer efficacement la qualité et l'efficacité de l'usinage. / The mechanical characteristics and deformability behaviours of reinforcements are essential knowledge to optimize manufacturing process composites with complex shapes. Meanwhile, the machining properties of composites also greatly determine the in-service performance of composite parts. This thesis is not only dedicated on the three aspects in manufacturing and machining processes to explore what characters the special features in the mechanical properties and deformability behaviours of braided fabrics, which are promising and excellent textile reinforcements for composites with complex shapes. But also to study machining processes using the abrasive water jet technique in order to further improve machining efficiency without sacrificing quality. The mechanical characteristics of braided fabrics, especially for in-plane shearing phenomenon, were originally investigated and modelled based on bias-extension test. In addition, triaxial braids were also the subject of an experimental study to determine the mechanical characteristics with regard to braiding parameters, such as braiding angle and number of yarns. The deformability behaviour of triaxial braids during the preforming step was analysed and correlated with the associated defects according to the different process conditions, such as the pressures applied. In addition, the evolution of the deformability behaviour as a function of the braiding angle was geometrically modelled and verified by experimental results. The upgraded multi-pass cutting of abrasive waterjet was firstly introduced into composites machining process based on the exploration of the corresponding material removal mechanism. It was experimentally concluded that such technique could effectively enhance the machining quality and efficiency.

In Peru, the Textile sector generates between 350 and 400 thousand direct jobs, representing 1.9% of Gross domestic product (GDP) and just over 10% of manufacturing. SMEs are characterized by being formed by family businesses, low levels of investment in new technologies and limited financial resources. This context has made SMEs are delayed compared to large companies in implementing Lean Manufacturing. Manufacturing textile companies that have problems with low productivity, excessive use of physical space, unnecessary movement and transport, use the tools of Lean Manufacturing and distribution plant for solving these problems. Many of the problems found in companies are related to the disorganization of processes, material flow and layout. Therefore, companies have seen the need to apply different strategic tools to help them increase the efficiency of their processes and become more competitive in their market. Among the strategic tools is the Lean Manufacturing. Several authors conclude that the plant distributions that SMEs have are not correct for increased productivity, however, the improvement models presenting lack information on how to create step by step a new layout of the company. Because of this, this article details the steps that SMEs can follow in search for a plant distribution model under the SLP tool.

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