Electronic textiles (e­‐textiles) are created by the amalgamation of electronics and textiles, where electronics are integrated into or onto fabric substrates. Woven textiles are specifically considered in this thesis to integrate electronics into textiles' orthogonal architecture. This thesis investigates 'How can the weaving process be manipulated to make woven e-­textiles with integrated electronics?' The methodological approach taken is practice based research carried out via a technical materials approach and creative craft methods. An investigation of woven e-­textiles through design led practice and woven expertise is presented. Previously, woven e-­textiles have been investigated either via technical material approaches, (where the main emphasis remains on function) or via creative craft methods, (which emphasise experimental forms, manipulate integration methods and apply craft based knowledge). Both of these approaches have presented only limited investigation of unobtrusive integrated electronics in woven e-­textiles, and woven structures have not been fully utilised to support the integration. The research applies reflective practice through a design process model; this is based on the researcher's previous weaving expertise and designing methods. The work investigates how woven construction may be manipulated to develop novel integrated woven e-­textiles. It was found that five woven approaches were particularly of value for electronics integration. These were the use of double cloth, the integration of multiple functions into the textiles as part of the weaving, the use of complex weaving techniques to attach and integrate components, the use of inlay weft weaving and the manipulation of floats (free floating threads). The thesis makes original contributions to knowledge, including identification of key stages in the woven e-­textile design process, identification and application of advanced weaving techniques to facilitate integrated woven e-­textiles, and compilation of a systematic record of woven e-­‐textile techniques as a technical woven repository. Underpinning design principles that influence the developed e-­textile outcomes are identified. A range of woven e-­textile samples are designed and made. Three specific examples including an actuator ('RGB colour mixer'), a circuit ('corrugated pleat LED v2') and a soft module ('battery holder module v4'), are described in detail to illustrate their development using the e-­textile design process model. The knowledge gained has potential to be applied to industrial woven processes for e-­textiles.

El presente trabajo tiene como finalidad el desarrollo de una máquina automática que facilite el proceso de hilado de lana, en especial el hilado de lana de alpaca, a las personas y artesanos de zonas rurales, cuyo trabajo está relacionado al comercio y producción de dicha fibra. Con ayuda de este sistema mecatrónico, el artesano podrá ahorrar tiempo en el proceso de hilado y podrá invertirlo en otras actividades, como es el tejido o bordado. Además, gracias a este sistema, el hilo que se obtenga tendrá una mejor precisión con respecto al grosor de este, aumentando así su calidad; el usuario podrá seleccionar entre grosores de 1 mm, 2 mm o 3 mm de acuerdo al uso que él piense darle al hilo. También, debido a que ya no se invertirá demasiado tiempo en el proceso de hilado, las personas que exportan fibra de lana de alpaca en bruto y sin ningún acabado, podrán generar un valor agregado a sus exportaciones de una forma sencilla mediante el hilado de la fibra que exportan. En el capítulo 1 se plantea la problemática existente en el país con respecto al proceso del hilado y que el sistema mecatrónico debe resolver. En el capítulo 2 se mencionan los requerimientos y condiciones que el sistema mecatrónico debe cumplir, asimismo, se presenta el concepto de la solución que logrará cumplir tales requerimientos. En el capítulo 3 se explica detalladamente el funcionamiento del sistema, así como los elementos mecánicos y electrónicos que lo conforman, el detalle se muestra en los planos, esquemáticos y diagramas de flujo. En el capítulo 4 se hace el cálculo del presupuesto necesario para la implementación del sistema mecatrónico. Por último en el capítulo 5 se muestran las conclusiones a las que se llegaron al finalizar el presente trabajo. / Tesis

Diss.--Geschichte--Basel, 1979. / Bibliogr. p. 193-198.

Thesis (M.A.)--Antioch University. / Includes bibliographical references (p. 38-44).

Thesis (M.A.)--Antioch University. / Includes bibliographical references (p. 38-44).

De nombreux descripteurs sont utilisés pour décrire les composites tissés. Cela est dû en partie aux différents usages que l’on peut en faire. Par exemple, le descripteur le plus approprié pour une simulation mécanique (par exemple, un maillage d’éléments finis), n’est pas nécessairement le même que pour un algorithme de contrôle non destructif (par exemple, des descripteurs statistiques issus d’images tomographiques). Cette recherche propose de reconnaître que, malgré les nombreuses formes que peuvent prendre ces descripteurs textiles, le composite tissé 3D qui nous intéresse est intrinsèquement structuré. En fait, il est principalement défini par son motif de tissage 3D (arrangement des torons). Cette caractéristique commune à tous les descripteurs peut être exploitée pour “construire des liens” entre les nombreuses analyses différentes. Ceux-ci peuvent être obtenus à travers de la Corrélation d’Images Volumiques (DVC), qui fournit le champ de déplacement reliant toute paire de descripteurs. Les avantages de la DVC sont démultipliés en permettant la “relaxation” de l’hypothèse fondamentale de la conservation des coefficients d’absorption (le contraste tomographique), et l’utilisation d’une technique de régularisation mécanique “complète”. Cela se traduit par un algorithme de recalage robuste et rapide. Il permet de mesurer les “différences métriques” (déformations et distorsions du toron) et d’identifier les “différences topologiques” possibles (par exemple, les anomalies de tissage) qu’un textile peut connaitre. En somme, ce nouvel “cadre de corrélation” permets l’unification des descripteurs textiles dans un seul descripteur topologique. Divers échantillons tissés observés à l’échelle méso ont été étudiés dans ce contexte. / Many descriptors are employed for describing the woven composites. This is, in part, due to the different uses one may give them. For example, the most appropriate descriptor for a mechanical simulation (e.g., a finite element mesh), may not necessarily be the same as for a nondestructive testing algorithm (e.g., statistical descriptors issued from tomographic images). This research proposes to acknowledge that, despite the many forms that these textile descriptors may take, the 3D woven composite tat interests us is intrinsically structured. In fact, it is mainly defined by its 3D weaving pattern (arrangement of yarns). This common characteristic to all descriptors can be exploited to “construct bridges” between the many different analyses. These can be obtained by means of Digital Volume Correlation (DVC), which provides the displacement field relating any pair of descriptors. It should be noted that the advantages of DVC are multiplied by allowing for the “relaxation” of the fundamental assumption of conservation of absorption coefficients (i.e., the tomographic contrast), and the use of a “complete” mechanical regularization technique. This results in a robust and fast registration algorithm. It allows measuring the “metric differences” (yarn deformations and distortions) as well as identifying the possible “topological differences” (e.g., weaving anomalies) that a textile may undergo. In short, this new “correlation framework” allows the unification of the textile descriptors into a single topological descriptor. Various woven samples observed at the meso-scale were studied in this context.

Humidity responsive materials sense, respond and adapt to the environment in response to changes in humidity. An important potential application of this material technology is the creation of “smart textiles” that facilitate moisture management in clothing. Materials used for clothing must have characteristics such as elasticity, washability and abrasion resistance, but smart textiles that have been demonstrated to date lack these characteristics. It is the need for improved materials that motivated the present study. Here, we developed spore-cellulose nanofiber composites (CNF) and spore-polyurethane (PU) composites, which are two biologically-based humidity-responsive materials that derive their high energy density humidity responsiveness from spores. We demonstrate the use of these hygromorphing materials for smart textiles by coupling the responsive materials to fabrics to create a textile that vents in humid environments and closes in dry environments. This material can be used in clothing to enable fast evaporation of sweat from the skin and improved comfort. Because the spore-CNF composite is not elastic stretchy or water resistant and therefore is undesirable for real world clothing applications, we also developed a stretchy spore-PU composite that is simultaneously humidity responsive, stretchy and water and abrasion resistant. In addition, we fabricated spore-PU based hygromorphing fabric bilayer actuators to create venting smart textiles with adaptive permeability properties that are compatible with clothing applications. These smart fabrics have the potential to improve the functionality and utility of garments, especially those intended for athleticwear, workwear and protective garments.

The developments in textile technology now enable the weaving of conductive wires into the fabrics. This allows the introduction of electronic components such as sensors, actuators and computational devices on the fabrics, creating electronic textiles (e-textiles). E-textiles can be either wearable or non-wearable. However, regardless of their form, e-textiles are placed in a tightly constrained design space requiring high computational performance, limited power consumption, and fault tolerance. The purpose of this research is to create simulation models for power consumption and fault behavior of e-textile applications. For the power consumption model, the power profile of the computational elements must be tracked dynamically based upon the power states of the e-textile components. For the fault behavior model, the physical nature of the e-textile and the faults developed can adversely affect the accuracy of results from the e-textile. Open and short circuit faults can disconnect or drain the battery respectively, affecting both battery life and the performance of the e-textile. This thesis describes the development of both of these models and their interfaces. It then presents simulation results of the performance of an acoustic beamforming e-textile in the presence and absence of faults, using those results to explore the battery life and fault tolerance of several battery configurations. / Master of Science

Master of Science / Department of Apparel, Textiles, and Interior Design / Diana Sindicich / With continuing advancements in the area of electronics, there are more ways in which they are utilized in order to improve the lives of humans. These advancements have to led to the incorporation of electronic components into fabric structures, creating electronic textiles (e-textiles). As it has become possible to place small electrical components within clothing without the performance of the electronics being hampered, research has been conducted in the use of e-textiles in measuring aspects of the human body, such as the heart rate and perspiration rate. In the area of skin temperature, research has been conducted in the past using e-textiles for skin temperature measurement, but past efforts have been unsuccessful in incorporating useable temperature sensors into a fabric substrate. This study compared three types of sensors incorporated into woven and knitted fabrics, using insulated thermocouples, un-insulated thermocouples, and resistance temperature directors (RTDs). Three incorporation methods (weaving, interlacing into knit, and stitching) were used in six fabric samples, with the three sensor types woven and stitched into three woven fabric samples, while the sensors were interlaced into knitted fabric and stitched into the three knitted samples. Fabric hand washing and temperature measurement tests were conducted, and the temperature readings were analyzed statistically for comparison. The analysis conducted showed that the thermocouples that were interlaced or stitched onto the knitted fabric samples were best for temperature measurement due to their accuracy and durability, while the RTDs were unusable as a temperature sensor, as the removal of the electrical connectors during washing eliminated the calibration that was established before washing. This research was supported in part by the Institute for Environmental Research at Kansas State University.

Trabajo de suficiencia profesional / En la investigación realizada se determinó que era relevante y conveniente investigar la rentabilidad de los productos elaborados en algodón nativo con la adopción de tecnología a través de Agroideas, en la asociación de turismo y artesanía de Pómac III, Pítipo. La hipótesis planteada asumía que si se adoptaba tecnología en la asociación de artesanas, entonces contribuirá al incremento de la rentabilidad de los productos elaborados en algodón nativo. Se tomó en cuenta como objetivo general analizar la rentabilidad de los productos elaborados en algodón nativo para la adopción de tecnología en la asociación. Y como objetivos específicos, identificar el mejor equipamiento tecnológico para la elaboración de los productos, establecer un perfil económico para la producción de los productos en algodón nativo y plasmar una comparación de la situación actual de la asociación con el supuesto escenario en el que se adquiere la tecnología para la producción de artículos en algodón nativo. Metodológicamente la investigación fue de tipo descriptiva cualitativo-cuantitativo y se utilizó el diseño no-experimental, longitudinal de tendencia. La investigación se considera relevante desde el punto de vista científico porque mediante el cofinanciamiento que puedan obtener las integrantes de la asociación podrán realizar la elaboración de sus productos de manera eficiente y productiva. Dentro de las conclusiones más importantes se señala que con este estudio ha quedado evidenciado, que las condiciones en las que se desarrolla actualmente la actividad artesanal del algodón nativo son propicias para generar economía.