Due to greater awareness of the need to conserve the world's resources - one direction is to promote products with less environmental impact during manufacturing processes. There are different perspectives to understand what is driving this development towards environmental production. On one hand, producers manage their production with less environmental impact either of an integrated environmental management of the company or because of regulatory requirements in steering manufacturing, especially under circumstances in Sweden. The development may also be because of responding to market demand for eco-labelled prod-ucts. My case studies have two approaches of qualitative research in order to answer the research questions: The first angle, makes a description of how a company has adapted to environmental production conditions, and examine the product development process and the choice of implementing product groups in its range. The second angle is from a customer perspective, exploring choices of specific products. The study begins with the producer Lud-vig Svensson AB and their brand Svensson Markspelle of their eco-labelled furniture fabrics and then followed by a comparison of the different kind of customers within the brand. The findings of the thesis revealed that, Ludvig Svensson has adjusted to a sustainable production since before the implementation of an eco-label. It also shows that there is a need for greater information about the company’s environmental work out to customers as eco-labels is limited in its message as a communication tool, regardless whether the eco-label is part of the ongoing environmental work or not. More customer-oriented information could make a difference as an eco-label is a simple message for complex conditions. There is also an op-portunity to increase knowledge. However, it is important to emphasize that although the organization Ecolabelling Sweden has a responsibility to raise awareness about eco-labels they certify for. Findings of the customer study showed that the choices that govern the public environment are complex. At many times other requirements such as washability, durability and flame resistance are put higher than the choice of an upholstery fabric. To be envi-ronmental friendly in product selection is not just about choosing a product with minor envi-ronmental impact, but high quality is such as great environmental choice. The study also showed that there are general aspects that are problematic to make environmentally con-scious choices and the obstacles of lack of knowledge in some areas come from several directions with regard to conditions in the public procurement. / Program: Magisterutbildning i Applied Textile Management

Syntetiska material står idag för merparten av produktionskedjan för textilmaterial globalt. Behovet av biobaserade regenererade fibrer ligger i framkant när det gäller framtida val för produktion av textilmaterial i samband med målen för hållbar utveckling. I Sverige produceras upp till ca 1000 ton ull per år där endast 46% av ullen faktiskt bearbetas. Svensk gotland- och leicester ull har tidigare ansetts vara svåra att spinna till garn på grund av dess långa fibrer och låg filtbarhet. I och med att en stor del av textilindustrin förflyttades utomlands i slutet av 1960-talet försvann också delar av värdekedjan som då fanns tillgängliga för att möjliggöra förädling av den svenska ullen. Flera delar av den textila värdekedjan för svensk ull som saknats håller idag på att återuppbyggas och initiativ och projekt pågår för att utveckla och återupprätta den svenska ull- industrin. I detta arbete jämförs de två svenska ullkvaliteterna gotlands- och leicesterull och karakteriseras på fiber- och garnnivå utifrån sina textila egenskaper för tillverkning av vävt ulltyg, i syfte att användas som möbeltyg. Detta utförs genom att studera beteendet hos olika typer av bindningar i avseende på dess nötningsbeständighet, samt upphov till pilling och luddighet. Resultaten kopplas till de olika garnens styrkeegenskaper, där garner som innehåller leicesterull uppvisade en styrka på över 3000 cN vid brott, vilket visade sig vara högre än motsvarande resultat som erhållits av gotlandsullen. Vikten av bindningstyp som bör användas vid vävning av ulltyger belyses såväl som analysering av de effekterna som slutbehandlingar ger. Vid val av de olika bindningstyperna satin med olika stigningstal - varprips och halvpanama - som testats för sin prestanda, visade sig varprips och halvpanama vara väl lämpade för vävt möbeltyg av ull. Varpripsbindningens konstruktion visade att varptrådarna slits ut vid nötning medan väfttrådarna skyddas underifrån, vilket spelar roll för produktion och utveckling av tyger utifrån ekonomiska aspekter. Alla provkroppar klarade nötningsbeständighet upp till 50 000 varv enligt Martindale-metoden, med undantag för ytliga skador där satinen bildade noppor i ett tidigt skede och påvisade en högre risk till slitage. Dekatering som utfördes visade sig bidra till att ullväven erhöll en högre glans och högre dimensionsstabilitet och anses därmed vara en relevant slutberedning för ullväven. Svedning bidrog till en minskad ytluddighet som önskat. Tvättning i foulard gav bindningarna i väven högre stabilitet till följd av filtningsprocessen men resulterade däremot i en viss oönskad nyansskillnad. / Synthetic materials currently account for the majority of the textile material production chain globally. The need for bio-based regenerated fibers is at the forefront of future choices for the production of textile materials in the context of the Sustainable Development Goals. In Sweden, up to about 1000 tons of wool are produced per year where only 46% of the wool is actually processed. Swedish Gotland and Leicester wool has previously been considered difficult to spin into yarn due to its long fibers and low feltability. With the relocation of a large part of the textile industry abroad in the late 1960s, parts of the value chain that were then available to enable the processing of Swedish wool also disappeared. Several parts of the textile value chain for Swedish wool that were missing are now being rebuilt, and multiple initiatives and projects are underway to develop and restore the Swedish wool industry. In this work, the two Swedish wool qualities Gotland and Leicester wool are compared and characterized at the fiber and yarn level based on their textile properties for the production of woven wool fabric, with the aim of being used as upholstery fabric. This is done by studying the behavior of different types of bindings in terms of their abrasion resistance, pilling and linting. The results are linked to the strength properties of the different yarns, with yarns containing leicester wool exhibiting a strength of over 3000 cN at break, which proved to be higher than the corresponding results obtained from Gotland wool. The importance of the bonding type that should be used in the weaving of wool fabrics is highlighted as well as analyzing the effects of finishing treatments. In selecting the different types of satin weave with different pitches, warp faced rep and half-panama, which were tested for their performance, warp faced rep and half-panama proved to be well suited for woven wool upholstery fabrics. The design of the warp binding showed that the warp threads are worn out by abrasion while the weft threads are protected from below, which is important for the production and development of fabrics from an economic point of view. All specimens passed abrasion resistance up to 50 000 revolutions according to the Martindale method, with the exception of superficial damage where the satin formed nubs at an early stage and showed a higher risk of wear. Decatizing was found to contribute to a higher gloss and higher dimensional stability of the wool fabric and is thus considered a relevant final preparation for the wool fabric. Singeing contributed to a reduction in surface fuzziness as desired. Washing in the foulard gave the bonds in the fabric higher stability as a result of the felting process but also left a certain shade difference.