This dissertation investigates the processes and effects involved in the production of styles in contemporary Stockholm. Particular focus is given to materialization processes regarding gender and sexuality. It is an ethnographic study, organized around three different research methods: participant observation, semi-structured interviews and organic wardrobe studies, carried out during the duration of two years and mainly delimited to Stockholm, often focusing on but not limited to the queer-orientated downtown club scene. The study is centered on ten participants, but is also concerned with the events, situations and relations the participants become part of during this time. In this way, the analysis gives equal attention to the specificity of garments and the spaces and places of social interaction. Drawing on a combination of Judith Butler’s theory of performativity and Bruno Latour’s actor-network theory, it analyses how styles are produced and maintained through interactions. The concept of style operates as a tool of analysis, approaching the subject matter from three different perspectives: verbal communication and politics of naming, the wheres and whens of sartorial practices, and lastly bodily matters as a point of intersection, where styles are constituted as bodily materializations through gestures, movements and orientation in space. Furthermore, this thesis engages in an on-going discussion within fashion studies on how the articulation of matters regarding sexuality, gender and identity projects can be theorized through the concept of style. In this way, it also challenges and furthers the definition of this concept by proving its productive qualities through ethnographic fieldwork.

Textilindustrin har en omfattande negativ påverkan på miljön och konsumenters köpbeteende är en del av detta problem. Konsumenter påverkar mer än vad de är medvetna om genom vad de väljer att konsumera och hur mycket de inhandlar. Då kunden spelar en sådan stor roll i den faktiska miljöpåverkan väljer denna rapport att fokusera på kundbeteendet ur ett hållbarhetsperspektiv. Det finns ett tydligt gap mellan konsumenters attityd och beteende när det kommer till att konsumera kläder hållbart. Rapportens utgångspunkt är därför en studie av Hiller Connell (2010) gällande attityd-beteendegapet hos konsumenter när det kommer till just hållbar klädkonsumtion. Hiller Connell påvisar sex barriärer som hindrar konsument från att handla hållbara klädesplagg. Dessa hinder är konsuments kunskap och attityd gällande hållbarhet samt tillgänglighet av föredragna produkter, ekonomiska resurser, detaljhandelsmiljö samt rådande samhällsnormer. För att kunna undersöka detta gap och dess bakomliggande orsaker har data samlats in i genom garderobsanalys, som främst påvisar konsuments faktiska beteende. I kombination med en semistrukturerad intervju, som främst indikerar konsuments attityd till hållbar klädkonsumtion. Denna studie har genomförts på tio kvinnor i åldern 25 till 35. Analys av resultatet visar att barriärerna (Hiller Connell, 2010) även är påtagliga för denna studies respondenter. Det kan även konstateras att alla hinder är olika påtagliga för olika deltagare samt att typ av plagg påverkar detta. Denna studie finner att dessa hinder kan påverkas olika beroende på om plagg är miljömärkt, begagnat eller av bättre kvalité. Studien finner även ytterligare ett påtagligt hinder hos respondenter, nämligen deras eget engagemang till att konsumera kläder mer hållbart. / The textile industry has a negative impact on the environment and consumer behaviour when shopping for clothes is a part of this problem. Consumers affect more than they are aware of when choosing what and how much to consume when it comes to clothes. Therefore the way customers consume is a huge part of the impact the textile industry has on the environment. Because of this, the paper focuses on consumer behaviour from a sustainability perspective. It has been found that there is a gap between attitude towards consuming clothes that are sustainable and the actual behaviour. This paper draws on findings from a study by Hiller Conner (2010) that has studied the attitude-behaviour gap and have identified barriers that can affect it. These barriers include customer knowledge and attitude towards sustainability, availability of preferable products, customers economic resources, retail environment and social norms. In order to examine this gap and the reasons behind, data were collected through observations of consumers wardrobe to explore the actual behaviour when it comes to buying clothes. Furthermore, interviews and talking about the attitude towards their consumption of clothes were made. This study was made with the help of ten women between the age of 25 to 35. The findings shows that the barriers are in fact relevant. It is also found that they are not equally significant for all of the participants. Furthermore this study shows that the barriers are affected depending on what type of sustainable garment is consumed. As it is found a difference when buying garments that have eco-labels, secondhand or of better quality. This study also found an additional significant barrier among the respondents, their own engagement to consuming more sustainable clothes.

This thesis focuses specifically on yoga clothing to explore the wardrobes of individuals who practice yoga within Northern Europe. This study explores yoga as an embodied practice connected to dress, uncovering the relationship between clothing and the body based on online ethnographic research. Wardrobe studies were carried out remotely during the COVID-19 pandemic producing a new approach to the field through remote wardrobe studies. The theoretical perspective of Erving Goffman analyses the participants and their wardrobes through the lens of dramaturgy. This perspective allows for the investigation into the behaviour of individuals practising online and in- person yoga classes compared to yoga at home. Viewing social life as a theatre performance to explore individual’s wardrobes and yoga clothing is a vital component of the study. The research demonstrates how individuals in a society constantly perform and how a wardrobe is an object that also performs. The findings suggest that yoga clothing, the body, and the wardrobe are intrinsically connected, providing rich information contributing to fashion studies.