Observations of the bottom boundary layer on the inner West Florida Shelf were made with a downward looking pulse coherent acoustic Doppler profiler throughout the passage of Tropical Storm Isadore during September 2002. The storm passed through the Gulf of Mexico roughly 780 km offshore of the Florida study site. Significant wave heights ranged from 0 m to 2.5 m within a span of eight days. The excellent, non-invasive, 5 cm resolution of the near bed (bottom meter) mean flows were used to estimate bed shear velocity and bottom roughness using the standard log-layer approach. A unique opportunity to examine boundary layer structure was provided by the high-resolution data. Calculated friction velocity due to currents (u*c) and apparent bottom roughness (z0) reduced considerably when velocity measurements closer to the bed were emphasized. This observation may be indicative of segmentation within the bottom boundary layer and has implications for common practices of estimating bed shear stress measurements from distances greater than a few tens of centimeters above the bed. Acoustic backscatter strength was used as a proxy for sediment suspension in the water column revealing no relationship between current parameters and sediment resuspension during the ten-day data set. Wave effects were included following the work of Grant and Madsen and others with strong relationships between wave and wave-current parameters and the ABS as a proxy for sediment resuspension evident.

Continental shelves connect land and the ocean and also play a major role through time in the storage and re-distribution of terrigenous sediments to the ocean. Most of the sediments which origin in land and very shallow waters are deposited on the continental shelf. Sediment entrainment and movement in the coastal ocean are dominated by the combined effect of waves and currents within the benthic boundary layer. Our study intends to examine the relation between currents, waves and acoustic echo intensity in a wave-current boundary layer. The site of the study was located southeast off Kaohsiung Harbor entrance in southern Taiwan on the inner shelf. Between April 16 and May 1, 2004, a tetrapod was deployed with an upward-looking ADCP (Aquadopp Profiler), a CTD with an OBS (XR-420). Another downward-looking ADCP was mounted at 2 m above bed (mab). The interval of the data collection was one hour. Water samples were pumped in seven time-segments (4 in the neap tide, 3 in the spring tide) through the experimental period at 1 and 0.5 mab, respectively for suspended sediment concentration (SSC) analysis in the laboratory. Aquadopp Profiler not only records 3-D current data but also measures the echo intensity (EI). The echo intensity is proportional to the amount of backscattering particles in the water column. The acoustic intensity could be a useful reference for the total concentration of the suspended particles. Our preliminary findings indicate strong tidal control on the dynamics of suspended particles in the benthic boundary layer. The wave field is also modified by the tidal. The form number of the observed tides is 1.87, which indicates mixed tides with a predominantly diurnal component. The data were analyzed using empirical orthogonal (eigen) function (EOF) analysis. The results indicate that the tidal current dominated the alongshore current. Its period is 24.67 hours. The echo intensity are dominated by the current shear velocity. The observations show that the maximum thickness of wave boundary layer and wave-current boundary layer at the experiment site is about 0.9 cm and 1.24 cm respectively. Cross-correlation analysis results among the roughness length, the thickness of wave boundary layer, and the thickness of wave-current boundary layer show that the roughness length correlates negatively to the thickness of both boundary layer. The data were analyzed by spectrum analysis. The results indicate that wave boundary layer were dominated by the low frequency current. The wave-current boundary layer and the roughness length were dominated by the semidiurnal tides.

There is a long terms of developement for academics theoretical analyzing and experimental researching by using the Lagrangian method. But for such trajectory experimentalists still have interference with reflected waves because of the length of the water tank is too short or the diameter and the density of the simulate particle , in spite of measuring the trajectory of the fluid particle have done. For there is no quite completed quantification data for the trajectory of fluid particle, this study is aiming at researching the truly movement of the flow field under wave-current interaction by trajectory measuring. This research choosing the simulate particle¡¦s diameter for 1 mm , collocating with a high-speed vedio camera to record the particle¡¦s moving characteristics while the wave-current interaction occured, to proceed a series of qualitative and quantitative testing. And to comple with all these data and improve the modification by using Image Processing to derive and orientate the coordinates . According to the experimental results of the flow field,it has proved that mass transport occured at the same-depth and no-flow condition through the wave progressing direction.The trajectory of the fluid particle of wave-current interaction in co-flow , its curve presenting the cross-convolution increasing and even presenting the cuspidal locus. And the trajectory of the fluid particle of wave-current interaction in inverse ¡Vflow is opposite to the trajectory of the no-flow movement. The results of the experiment is quite accord with to the 3rd order the theoretical analyzing of Chen ¡]1994¡^and Shu¡BChen¡]2006¡^¡CThe fluid particle reproducting the moving period of the high-elevation is greater than the wave¡¦s and increasing by the sharpness of the wave. The mass transport velocity is the same theory results ,and decreased deviation of artificiality in estimating particle position. According to the ratio of the experimental results, root mean square of error Ex and total mass transport displacement. The experimental results compared to the theoretical results obtained by Chen (1994)and Hsu¡BChen(2006) has the similar results as well.

Yes / A two-dimensional numerical model is developed to study the propagation of a solitary wave in the presence of a steady current flow. The numerical model is based on the Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations with a k-ε turbulence closure scheme and an internal wave-maker method. To capture the air-water interface, the volume of fluid (VOF) method is used in the numerical simulation. The current flow is initialized by imposing a steady inlet velocity on one computational domain end and a constant pressure outlet on the other end. The desired wave is generated by an internal wave-maker. The propagation of a solitary wave travelling with a following/opposing current is simulated. The effects of the current velocity on the solitary wave motion are investigated. The results show that the solitary wave has a smaller wave height, larger wave width and higher travelling speed after interacting with a following current. Contrariwise, the solitary wave becomes higher with a smaller wave width and lower travelling speed with an opposing current. The regression equations for predicting the wave height, wave width and travelling speed of the resulting solitary wave are for practical engineering applications. The impacts of current flow on the induced velocity and the turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) of a solitary wave are also investigated. / National Natural Science Foundation of China Grant #51209083, #51137002 and #41176073, the Natural Science Foundation of Jiangsu Province (China) Grant #BK2011026, the 111 Project under Grant No. B12032, the Fundamental Research Funds for the Central University, China (2013B31614), and the Carnegie Trust for Scottish Universities

A two-dimensional numerical model has been developed to simulate wave-current induced nearshore circulation patterns in beaches and surf zones. The wave model is based on the parabolic wave equation for mild slope beaches. The parabolic equation method has been chosen because it is a viable means of predicting the characteristics of surface waves in slowly varying domains and in its present form dissipation and wave breaking are also included. The two dimensional parabolic mild slope equation was discretised and solved in a fully implicit manner, so stability did not create a major problem. This wave model was then embedded into the existing numerical model DIVAST. The sediment transport formulae from Van Rijn was used to calculate the nearshore sediment transport rate.

Les formulations et modèles de vagues stochastiques sont les outils les plus traditionnels pour l’évaluation et la prévision des états de mer. Cependant, la prise en compte de nombreux processus physiques essentiels à l’évolution des vagues reste souvent lacunaire dans ces types d’approches. Une des raisons possible est notamment que peu d’observations viennent documenter ces processus. La dissipation des ondes est ainsi mal quantifiée par les méthodes d'observation traditionnelles dans tout l’éventail des conditions océaniques. Dans ce contexte, le travail présenté dans cette thèse explore plus avant les conditions menant au déferlement à travers la modulation de l'énergie des ondes courtes par de fort courants de marée et par des ondes plus longues.Dans cette étude, nous avons profité des campagnes de mesure BBWAVES, spécialement conçues pour acquérir de la donnée dans des zones d’interactions vagues courants.Ces campagnes ont notamment permis de tester une nouvelle bouée dérivante conçue pour la mesure des vagues dans des zones à forts courants de marées. Grâce à des mesures simultanées en zones de forts courants, il a été possible de mettre en évidence des lacunes dans la modélisation des états de mer, et l’influence vraisemblable des erreurs dans la modélisation atmosphérique pour ces conditions. Cette thèse a également tiré parti d’une campagne de mesure stéréo-vidéo d’états de mer en Mer Noire afin d’étudier différents aspects du déferlement des vagues dans une grande variété de conditions d'état de mer bimodales. Ces mesures ont permis de mettre en évidence une modulation des ondes courtes par des longues et une incidence sur les propriétés de déferlement. / Stochastic wave formulations and models are the most common tools for the assessment and forecast of sea surface conditions. Their ability to account for some of the processes encountered by waves during their evolution remains however a central question. Among other processes, the wave dissipation is for instance still poorly quantified and traditional methods for wave measurements fail to proper insight into its physics in a wide range of conditions. In this context, the work presented in this PhD aims to explore available observation techniques for their application to several quantitative aspects of the dissipation of wave energy, and particularly for short wave modulated by strong tidal currents, for short wave modulated by longer waves. This work takes advantage of the BBWAVES oceanic campaigns, especially planned to explore questions related to wave and current interactions. Data from a large variety of sensors are analyzed. The campaign provides the ground for the test of a new design of drifting buoy aimed at measuring waves in areas of strong tidal current. Its performances are verified and the description it provides of the area is explored. From simultaneous measurements, it was possible to highlight the actual inaccuracies in wave model capabilities as well as the contribution of the error contained in the atmospheric modeling over strong tidal currents to the misevaluation of sea states. This work also used an extensive dataset from a stereo video experiment in the Black Sea to investigate wave breaking in bimodal sea state conditions. These measurements have revealed the influence of long wave modulation over short wave breaking.

As the second largest river in the U.S., the entrance to the Columbia River is home to some of the most extreme wave conditions on the Pacific Coast. Winter storms commonly generate waves 6-8 m in height, which in combination with strong tidal currents, can produce dangerous navigation conditions. To improve understanding of the wave dynamics in this complex setting, the SWAN model is applied; 2 hindcasts are conducted and an operations forecast is developed. The model is forced with offshore wave heights obtained from a buoy located in 134 m water depth (for the hindcasts) and a specialized WaveWatchIII forecast (for the forecast). In both cases tidal currents are obtained from SELFE, a circulation model of the Columbia River. The hindcasts are validated through measurements obtained from an inshore buoy located in 25 m water depth, a 4-week field experiment and remote sensing methods. The model performs best at the location of the buoy, with a normalized root-mean-squared error (NRMSE) of 11%, primarily because it is outside the area of strong tidal currents. Within the river mouth, the model is able to predict the changes in the wave field due to currents, but its performance is limited by errors in velocity estimates and strong shears in the tidal current profile. From the modeling work, it is evident that wave transformations at the mouth of the river are dominated by the tidal currents. The forecast has been operational since August 2011 and provides 45-hours of predictive wave information. In comparison with measured wave heights at the buoy, the forecast performs well, with a NRMSE of 16%. The majority of errors are caused by errors in the input conditions, since they themselves are forecasted. Additional errors arise from phase-resolved properties in the wave field that the model is unable to produce; these errors are also present in the hindcasts. Despite the limitations, this forecast provides valuable information to bar pilots since it includes the effects of the tidal currents. / Graduation date: 2013

学位授与大学：京都大学 ; 取得学位: 博士(工学) ; 学位授与年月日: 2007-09-25 ; 学位の種類: 新制・課程博士 ; 学位記番号: 工博第2844号 ; 請求記号: 新制/工/1418 ; 整理番号: 25529 / An atmosphere-ocean coupled model was developed based on a preexisting non-hydrostatic mesoscale atmosphere model (MM5) and non-hydrostatic ocean circulation model (MITgcm). This model together with a pre-established wind-wave-currents coupled model was applied to a number of regional environmental issue and disaster events to reproduce the present status and past situations and to help our understanding of the physical processes of such problems in terms of atmosphere-ocean interactions including the sea surface waves in the interface between air and sea. The disaster events and environmental issue studied in this thesis are follows. 1) Storm surge induced by Hurricane Katrina in the Gulf coast of USA in 2005. 2) Extreme high waves at Hara coast, Suruga Bay in Japan caused by the super-Typhoon TIP in 1979. 3) Positive and negative feedbacks in typhoon-ocean interaction in case of Typhoon ETAU in 2003. 4) Thermal water circulation in a dam-made lake (Yachiyo Lake) in Hiroshima, Japan concerning on the hydrodynamics in the lake. 5) Reanalysis of the past 47 storms that caused disasters in West Kyushu, Japan. 6) Wave overtopping simulation over through the submerged offshore breakwater and enhance seawall. The Regional Environment and Disaster Prevention Simulator is proposed and constructed based on the regional atmosphere-ocean coupled model in this thesis of which the objective was improvement of the numerical assessment method to disaster events and environment problems by introducing he coupling effects between different systems. / Kyoto University (京都大学) / 0048 / 新制・課程博士 / 博士(工学) / 甲第13373号 / 工博第2844号 / 新制||工||1418(附属図書館) / 25529 / UT51-2007-Q774 / 京都大学大学院工学研究科社会基盤工学専攻 / (主査)教授 関口 秀雄, 教授 間瀬 肇, 教授 中北 英一 / 学位規則第4条第1項該当

Ce mémoire présente une étude expérimentale des effets de confinement de la voie d'eau et de courant sur les sillages et la résistance à l'avancement des navires. Deux formes de carènes génériques et représentatives de navires maritimes et fluviaux ont fait l'objet de mesures dans le bassin des carènes de l'Institut Pprime dans différentes configurations bathymétriques. Des méthodes de mesure de déformée de surface libre par moyens optiques stéréoscopiques ont été mises en place pour caractériser les sillages générés. L'étendue spatiale et la résolution des mesures optiques permet de mener une analyse fine du sillage dans l'espace spectral, afin de le décomposer en une composante hydrodynamique dans le champ proche de la carène et une composante ondulatoire dans le champ lointain. Les résultats obtenus dans une configuration de voie d'eau profonde mettent en évidence la non-linéarité des sillages. Les résultats obtenus dans une configuration de voie d'eau peu profonde mettent en avant une modification de la forme des sillages et une répartition différente de l'énergie entre les différents systèmes de vagues. L'influence de la forme et de la vitesse des navires sur l'amplitude de la réponse hydrodynamique et du courant de retour est mise en avant. Des mesures en présence de contre-courant montrent une augmentation de l'amplitude des vagues du sillage et un élargissement de la zone de réflexion au niveau des parois du canal. Des mesures de forces de traînée avec un dynamomètre donnent accès aux courbes de résistance dans chaque configuration. L'augmentation de la résistance à l'avancement en eau peu profonde est mise en parallèle avec l'augmentation de l'amplitude et de la longueur d'onde des ondes transverses. / This thesis presents an experimental study of the effects of the waterway confinement and the current on ships wakes and drag. Two generic hulls representative of maritime and river ships have been studied in several bathymetric configurations in the towing tank of the Institut Pprime. Optical measurement methods based on a stereovision principle have been set up to measure the free surface deformations. The spatial extent and the resolution permits to lead a fine analysis of the wakes in the spectral space in order to decompose them into a hydrodynamic component and an undulatory component, respectively in the near-field and the far-field of the ship hull. The results obtained in a deep waterway configuration highlight the non-linearity of the ship wakes, which results in a modification of the shape of the envelop of the wave field in the real space. The results obtained in a shallow waterway configuration show a modification of the shape of the ship wakes and a different distribution of the energy between the wave systems. The influence of the shape and the speed of the ships on the amplitude of the hydrodynamic response and the return current is also identified. The comparison of the measurements in the presence of a counter-current with the results in calm water show an increase of the amplitude of the waves and an enlargement of the wash zone on the walls of the canal. Drag forces measurements with a multicomponent dynamometer give access to resistance curves for each configuration. The increase of the ship resistance in shallow water is put in parallel with the increase of the amplitude and the wavelength of the transverse waves.

Le littoral sableux du Languedoc-Roussillon est un système vulnérable aux risques d'érosion et de submersion. Ces aléas sont liés à la conjonction des facteurs naturels que sont les vagues, vent, élévation du niveau de la mer et apports sédimentaires et sont donc aggravés en période de tempête. En vue d'une gestion des risques, une meilleure connaissance des phénomènes hydrodynamiques de l'échelle littorale à l'échelle côtière est essentielle. Ce travail a conduit à la réalisation d'une plateforme de modélisation numérique composé du modèle de circulation océanique 3D Symphonie, traditionnellement dédié aux échelles régionales et côtières, qui a été modifié pour inclure le forçage par les vagues, modélisées par les modèles Wavewatch III ou Swan, et ainsi étendre sa validité au littoral.Le modèle a été testé sur des cas académiques littoraux. Des mesures sur la plage à double barres de Sète pendant l'hiver 2008-2009, ont également servi à parfaire le modèle qui reproduit ainsi avec succès les caractéristiques des courants en zone littorale : la dérive, les courants sagittaux sur des bathymétries plus complexes et les profils verticaux des courants. Pour valider le modèle à des échelles plus côtières, nous avons confronté ses résultats à des mesures réalisées pendant une tempête hivernale en 2004 aux alentours de l'embouchure de la Têt, mais également sur des tempêtes de 2007 et 2008 dans le Golfe d'Aigues-Mortes. Les courants sont globalement bien reproduits. Les zones d'action des vagues semblent limitées aux zones de profondeur inférieure à 30 m. Les caractéristiques de notre modèle permet une reproduction des courants à toutes les échelles et sa nature 3D permet un calcul plus précis de la tension de cisaillement de fond et du courant près du fond, responsables respectivement de la mise en suspension et de l'advection des sédiments. / The sandy coasts of Languedoc-Roussillon are a zone vulnerable to erosion and flooding. These hazards are generally associated with a combination of natural factors such as waves, wind, rising sea levels and the importance of sedimentsupply, and are therefore worsened during storms. For the management of such risks, a better knowledge of the hydrodynamic phenomena occuring from the surf zone through to the coastal scale is essential. This need led to the development of a numerical modelling platform consisting of the 3D ocean circulation model Symphonie, usually dedicated to regional and coastal scales, which was modified to include the wave forcing, modeled by the WaveWatch III or Swan models. Using this platform the entire littoral and coastal regions can be accurately represented.The model was tested in several academic cases. Measurements on the barred beach of Sète during the winter of 2008-2009 served to refine the model, which is able to successfully reproduce the characteristics of the currents in coastal areas, drifts or rip currents over more complex bathymetries and also the vertical profiles of currents. To validate the model on the inner-shelf, we compared the simulations with measurements taken during a winter storm in 2004 around the mouth of the Têt river, as well as during storms in 2007 and 2008 in the Gulf of Aigues-Mortes. Currents are generally well reproduced. However, the scope of wave action seems limited to a depth of 30m. The characteristics of our model allow a reproduction of the currents at all scales and the 3D nature of the model permits a more precise calculation of the shear stress and bottom current responsible, respectively, for the suspension and advection of sediments.