Thesis (Ph.D.)--University of Alabama at Birmingham, 2009. / Title from PDF title page (viewed on July 14, 2010). Includes bibliographical references.

Thesis (Ph. D.)--Ohio State University, 2005. / Title from first page of PDF file. Document formatted into pages; contains xv, 137 p.; also includes graphics. Includes bibliographical references (p. 122-137). Available online via OhioLINK's ETD Center

This qualitative study explores microaggressions in the online natural hair community. Using a thematic analysis, it specifically analyzes conversations about natural hair texture discrimination and /or biases, also known as curlism, in natural hair online spaces such as blogs and YouTube videos. This study concludes that hair texture biases and the ways in which Black women with natural hair experience difference in hair texture is multifaceted; therefore, natural hair companies, women in the natural hair community, and the natural hair community are not individually responsible. Each plays a different role in the perpetuation of hierarchy and difference within this community. The themes developed in this research are as follows: The Kink Vs. The Curl, Curlism as Colorism, Insurgence of Hair Texture Biases, and Empowerment of the Natural Hair Community.

Há um número crescente de indústrias no ramo de cosméticos atualmente, devido ao fato das pessoas se preocuparem mais com suas aparências e ansiarem por produtos de qualidade. Em decorrência desse fato as indústrias vêem investindo cada vez mais nas áreas de pesquisas e desenvolvendo tecnologia neste segmento. Este trabalho visa o estudo das fibras capilares e a interação das mesmas com uma formulação comercial contendo como ativo principal o biopolímero quitosana. Utilizou-se para tanto técnicas como microscopia eletrônica de varredura, microscopia ótica, microscopia de força atômica, análises térmicas (TG/DSC) e análise de espectroscopia de absorção na região do infravermelho. O estudo foi feito com cabelos caucasianos virgens (sem tratamento químico) e em cabelos caucasianos descoloridos. Os resultados evidenciaram melhorias na estrutura da fibra capilar. Pode-se também levantar dados como a rugosidade e a área cuticular da fibra, através desses dados verificou-se que a rugosidade na fibra capilar diminui e a área cuticular aumentou com o uso do produto. Foi observado também através da análise de infravermelho a presença da quitosana na fibra capilar. / Currently exists an increasing number of companies on the cosmetic market, due to the fact that people worry more about appearance and (to) desire (for) quality products. As a result the companies are investing more in this area and developing new technologies. The purpose of this work is to study hair fibers and their interaction with a commercial product containing chitosan which is the main ingredient in the formula of Kit Bio Film® Tânagra and techniques were used, such as MEV, optic microscopy, AFM, thermal analysis (TG/DSC) and infrared absorption spectroscopy. This study was realized with caucasian virgin hair (without any chemical process) and with caucasian uncolored hair. In all analyses improvement of the hair fiber structure was observed. Also observed data such as roughness and cuticle size showed an increase in roughness and a decrease of cuticle size.The presence of chitosan in the hair fiber was also observed by infrared analysis.

The hair follicle (HF) is a human mini-organ that autonomously cycles between phases of growth (anagen), regression (catagen) and relative quiescence (telogen). Whilst many molecular controls are now appreciated to influence hair cycle, what ultimately choreographs the switch between each cycle stage is yet to be elucidated. With the increasing link between molecular clock activities in controlling local tissue physiology, we began by studying the hypothesis that the human HF has a functional molecular clock. Utilising human HF organ culture, qRT-PCR and immunofluorescence we found that the HF does indeed have oscillating clock gene expression over 24 and 48 hours in situ, separate from the suprachiasmatic-nucleus. Moreover, core clock proteins BMAL1 and PER1 are expressed in the human HF with PER1 increasing as HFs enter catagen. Next utilising siRNA mediated gene knock-down of either BMAL1 or PER1 in situ, we were able to show that silencing either clock gene leads to anagen prolongation in cultured HFs, demonstrating that the molecular clock modulates the human hair cycle, namely the anagen-catagen switch in situ. As human pigmentation is tightly coupled to the hair cycle and both human HFs and epidermal melanocytes express clock genes/proteins, this led us to investigate the hypothesis that the molecular clock modulates human pigmentation. By silencing BMAL1 or PER1 in HFs an increase in melanin content (Masson-Fontana) was observed in a hair-cycle independent manner. Furthermore, tyrosinase expression/activity as well as TYRP1 and 2 expression, gp100 protein expression, melanocyte dendricity and the number of HF melanocytes were all significantly increased in BMAL1 and/or PER1-silenced HFs. Mechanistically, BMAL1 knockdown reduced PER1 transcription, and PER1 silencing was found to induce phosphorylation of the master regulator of melanogenesis, MITF, thus stimulating human melanogenesis and melanocyte activity. This provides the first evidence that the peripheral molecular clock influences human pigmentation. Finally, the thyroid hormone (T4) has strong links with peripheral clock activity and has been shown to prolong anagen and increase human HF pigmentation. Moreover, T4 is a commonly prescribed treatment for thyroid disorder. As such, we investigated the hypothesis that T4 influences HF clock gene activity. It was observed that transient T4 treatment reduces the amplitude of clock gene oscillations whilst circadian rhythmicity is maintained. Conversely with longer term treatment clock gene activity was significantly increased compared to a scrambled oligo-control. Here we have demonstrated that the human HF has peripheral molecular clock activity which influences the human hair cycle and pigmentation. Finally we were able to uncover a potential novel target, T4, whose pulsatile administration may potentially be used to treat not only hair growth and pigmentation disorders but may be able to modulate circadian activity in peripheral tissues and treat clock-related disease.

Indiana University-Purdue University Indianapolis (IUPUI) / Criminal investigation and the science behind evidence analysis is an ever- growing niche, and forensic DNA phenotyping (FDP) is no exception. For years the only information given to authorities regarding DNA found at a crime scene was STR analysis and matching to a comparative DNA sample from a known source. However, what happens when there is no suspect to compare DNA profiles, or the case involves a missing person where the only available piece of evidence is a biological sample found at the scene? Before FDP, not much could be done with the DNA sample and the investigation would be stalled. Now it is becoming possible to statistically predict an individual’s visual characteristics using FDP. Currently, with the use of Irisplex, HIrisplex, and HIrisplex-S, statistical analyses and predictions can be done for categorical eye, hair, and skin color by looking at specific genes and their associative SNPs, such as HERC2 and OCA2. The more that is understood about trait-determining genes and their functional significance with regards to our physical traits, the more phenotypes can be added to these prediction tools. In an effort to discover additional genes associated with human phenotypes, this study looked at thirty-two pigmentation-associated candidate genes, and eleven hair structure and morphology associated genes in owl monkey pelage samples. Although the samples were not of human origin, it is important to point out the high conservation between humans and their non-human primate relatives. The owl monkeys used in this study were helpful for tracking expression levels of genes controlling differentpigmentation and hair structure types, because each monkey had intra-individual variation in thickness and in coat color which allowed the generation of potential candidate genes for human investigation. Of the 43 total candidate genes analyzed, 36 had successful amplification, and 28 showed a significant difference in expression when comparing the different samples. The second part of this study was to compare quantitative characteristics of human hair in physical samples and two-dimensional (2D) photos. A test set of 45 individuals had 3-5 hairs from the vertex of their head plucked and analyzed, and a 2D photograph was taken of their scalp hair. The idea was to be able to make quantitative phenotypes in hair (such as hair width, amount of curl) from 2D imagery, when physical samples are not available for analysis. This is due to the fact that the majority of genotype-phenotype databases consist solely of photographic imagery, and seldom have hairs that can be microscopically prepared for analysis. Defining measurable phenotypes from 2D photos that strongly correlate with their physical counterparts allow for the generation of a more accurate phenotype for future genome wide association studies (GWAS) within and outside this laboratory that study hair thickness and hair curl. Three different quantitative phenotypes were compared between the microscopic and 2D photo- analysis.

no / Balding causes widespread psychological distress but is poorly controlled. The commonest treatment, minoxidil, was originally an antihypertensive drug that promoted unwanted hair. We hypothesized that another serendipitous discovery, increased eyelash growth side-effects of prostamide F2α-related eyedrops for glaucoma, may be relevant for scalp alopecias. Eyelash hairs and follicles are highly specialized and remain unaffected by androgens that inhibit scalp follicles and stimulate many others. Therefore, we investigated whether non-eyelash follicles could respond to bimatoprost, a prostamide F2α analog recently licensed for eyelash hypotrichosis. Bimatoprost, at pharmacologically selective concentrations, increased hair synthesis in scalp follicle organ culture and advanced mouse pelage hair regrowth in vivo compared to vehicle alone. A prostamide receptor antagonist blocked isolated follicle growth, confirming a direct, receptor-mediated mechanism within follicles; RT-PCR analysis identified 3 relevant receptor genes in scalp follicles in vivo. Receptors were located in the key follicle regulator, the dermal papilla, by analyzing individual follicular structures and immunohistochemistry. Thus, bimatoprost stimulates human scalp follicles in culture and rodent pelage follicles in vivo, mirroring eyelash behavior, and scalp follicles contain bimatoprost-sensitive prostamide receptors in vivo. This highlights a new follicular signaling system and confirms that bimatoprost offers a novel, low-risk therapeutic approach for scalp alopecias.

no / Hair follicle (HF) morphogenesis is governed by a series of signals exchanged between the epidermal keratinocytes committed to HF-specific differentiation and the mesenchymal cells forming the follicular papilla (Schmidt-Ullrich and Paus, 2005). These interactions lead to the construction of the hair bulb, in which keratinocytes rapidly proliferate and differentiate into several cell populations forming the hair shaft and the inner root sheath. During the final steps of development, the HF elongates up to its maximal length and the hair shaft emerges through the epidermis through the hair canal that is formed at the distal portion of the HF epithelium (Schmidt-Ullrich and Paus, 2005). ...To elucidate a role for MMP-9 in the control of HF development and hair canal formation, its expression was studied by immunohistochemistry in cryosections of embryonic and postnatal skin of C57BL/6 mice (Sharov et al., 2003), and was correlated to the micro-anatomy of the developing hair canal depicted by high-resolution light microscopy, as described previously (Magerl et al., 2001). MMP-9 expression was not observed in the epidermis and developing HF placodes.

Yes / Humans are social animals that communicate disproportionately via potent genetic signals imbued in the skin and hair, including racial, ethnic, health, gender, and age status. For the vast majority of us, age-related hair pigment loss becomes the inescapable signal of our disappearing youth. The hair follicle (HF) pigmentary unit is a wonderful tissue for studying mechanisms generally regulating aging, often before this becomes evident elsewhere in the body. Given that follicular melanocytes (unlike those in the epidermis) are regulated by the hair growth cycle, this cycle is likely to impact the process of aging in the HF pigmentary unit. The formal identification of melanocyte stem cells in the mouse skin has spurred a flurry of reports on the potential involvement of melanocyte stem cell depletion in hair graying (i.e., canities). Caution is recommended, however, against simple extrapolation of murine data to humans. Regardless, hair graying in both species is likely to involve an age-related imbalance in the tissue's oxidative stress handling that will impact not only melanogenesis but also melanocyte stem cell and melanocyte homeostasis and survival. There is some emerging evidence that the HF pigmentary unit may have regenerative potential, even after it has begun to produce white hair fibers. It may therefore be feasible to develop strategies to modulate some aging-associated changes to maintain melanin production for longer.

Yes / This article is an editorial for the special focus theme issue on “hair research” published by the Experimental Dermatology journal. Here we introduce the articles from the special issue and pose a few questions. The full list of publications for the hair research special issue is available on the Journal’s web site. Many of the articles can be viewed free of charge on the web site. This is for; Experimental Dermatology, Volume 29, Number 3, published March 2020.