Multiple scales of beach morphodynamic processes ranging from those of wave-breaking induced turbulence, individual wave, storm, seasonal, to inter-annual are examined in this dissertation based on both laboratory and field data. These processes were simulated using process-based numerical models and data-driven models. At a microscale, separating turbulence from orbital motion under breaking waves in the surf zone is essential to understanding wave-energy dissipation. Velocity data under monochromatic and random waves in the large-scale sediment transport facility (LSTF) were analyzed. Moving averaging provides a simple method for extracting turbulence from velocity measurements under random breaking waves collected at a reasonably high frequency. Various moving averaging time intervals were examined. An optimum moving averaging interval of approximately 30° to 42° phase angle (relative to peak wave period) allows a reasonable extraction of turbulence. An adaptive moving averaging with variable averaging time at wave crest and trough are proposed to improve the effect of turbulence extraction. At a mesoscale, hydrodynamic conditions associated with onshore migration of a sandbar and the subsequent equilibrium state of a stable bar were examined in the LSTF. Wave and near bottom velocity across the surf zone were measured during the onshore sandbar migration. The near-bottom velocity skewness indicates that before the sandbar reached equilibrium, the velocity was skewed offshore in the nearshore region, and skewed onshore seaward of the bar. The velocity skewness pattern reversed when the beach profile reached equilibrium and the sandbar became stable. The peak onshore directed acceleration was greater than the peak offshore directed acceleration throughout the surf zone during the periods of both onshore migrating and stable sandbar. The macroscale portion of the study examines the beach processes, particularly the morphodynamics of nearshore bar, at storm and seasonal scales. The bar height and bar position were extracted from bimonthly surveyed beach-profiles spaced at 300 m along the 22-km long Sand Key barrier island, West-Central Florida from October 2010 to August 2015. Seasonal beach cycle in the study area is illustrated by onshore sandbar migration during the summer and offshore sandbar migration during the winter, while subaerial beach remains rather stable. Alongshore variations of onshore and offshore sandbar migration were observed over storm events. The water depth over the pre-storm sandbar crest, or the bar crest elevation, is a major factor controlling the onshore or offshore sandbar movement. The offshore moving sandbar tends to have a shallower pre-storm bar crest, while the onshore moving sandbar tends to have a deeper pre-storm bar crest. A dynamic equilibrium bar height of 0.5 m for the study area was identified. The sandbar tends to evolve toward this equilibrium height during the seasonal cycle. The energetic conditions associated with Tropical Storm Debby caused a deviation from the above dynamic equilibrium conditions. The sandbar at most of the profile locations became higher than the pre-storm bar height regardless of the initial height of being greater or less than 0.5 m. After the storm, the higher and shallower bar experienced substantial erosion, the eroded sand was deposited in the trough landward. This resulted in a lower sandbar height, returning to the dynamic equilibrium height of 0.5 m. The Unibest-TC model (Walstra et al., 2012) is able to capture the measured trend of bar migration. The Modelling results suggest that offshore bar migration is dominated by suspended sediment transport. While onshore bar migration is driven mainly by bedload transport. At megascale, a data-driven model was developed to predict beach-profile evolution at multiple-annual scale. Empirical Orthogonal Function analysis was conducted on a time-series beach profile (R61) to identify temporal and spatial trends. Trends in the temporal EOF are modeled using a simple curve fitting. In this case, logarithmic and linear trends were identified. After the trend in temporal EOF values are identified, the curve fitting can be calibrated with 14-month data. The calibrated temporal EOF curve yielded accurate reproduction of profiles. The close examination of multiple scales of beach processes provides a comprehensive understanding of nearshore morphodynamics.

Garbage & sewage runoff into the Pacific Ocean at the shoreline along the U.S./Mexico Border region poses serious health and environmental threats. The purpose of this study was to analyze the current beach users’ behavioral factors that may be linked to illness prevalence from Coronado Island to the U.S./Mexico border at Imperial Beach in San Diego County. It is a continuation of a study completed by Wildcoast and Imperial Beach Clinic in 2011. The study tried to answer the following two major questions: How have the number of illnesses reported by users along South San Diego County beaches changed in the last 5 years? What relationships exist between reported illness and beach user behavior, if any? To accomplish this, a 2-page self-reporting survey was administered asking about demographics, beach recreation habits, illness and exposure information, and allowed for comments. Surveys were distributed to beach users along Imperial Beach northward to Coronado Island during May, June, and July of 2014. Quantitative as well as qualitative data were collected. The results show that the majority of respondents did not report suffering from an illness, however, for those who did report an illness, frequency of water entry, seasonality of water entry, entry during beach closures, and primary means of water contact were significantly correlated to illness prevalence.

Egmont Key, located at the mouth of Tampa Bay, is part of a dynamic system with many interrelated natural and anthropogenic factors influencing its morphodynamics. This study started in August 2012. During the 3-year period until August 2015, 28 beach profile transects were established and surveyed 10 times. Seventeen historical aerial images from 1942 to 2013 were geo-rectified and analyzed. Three hundred and fourteen sediment samples were procured from the navigation channel dredge area and the beach nourishment area and analyzed for grain size. A numerical wave model was established to simulate the nearshore wave field. The overall goals of this study are to understand the complex morphodynamics of Egmont Key and to evaluate the shore-protection efforts. The overall area of the Egmont Key has reduced 52% from 2.1 km2 in 1942 to 1.o km2 in 2002. The area loss was mostly caused by beach erosion along the Gulf-facing beach. The island-area reduction from 1942 to 2002 was largely linear. Two periods of accelerated area loss from 1978-1984 and 1999-2002 can be related to dredging of the Egmont Channel and the disposal of dredged materials along the channel. Concerning the relatively high mud content in the borrow area for the 2014 nourishment, a large amount of the fine sediment was lost at a temporal scale of hours to days during the dredging and beach nourishment construction processes. Some of the mud was deposited outside the surf zone at water depths of 2 m or greater. This mud became eroded naturally by energetic conditions at a temporal scale of months. Beach erosion and accretion along the Gulf-facing beach can be related qualitatively to tidal flow patterns. Numerical wave modeling shows that the transverse bars offshore Egmont Key have a moderate influence on the wave field, leading to slightly different wave heights along the shoreline. However, there is no clear relationship between the nearshore wave conditions and the erosion/accretion patterns. The severe shoreline erosion has exposed various fort structures at the shoreline and in the nearshore zone. These structures function as detached breakwaters or groins and have localized influence on the beach state.

The Wave Hub facility in Cornwall (South West UK) is a marine renewables test site, predominantly designed for the purpose of trialling wave energy converters prior to commercialisation. Beach water-users such as bathers and surfers are of economic importance to tourism in Cornwall, and during theWave Hub consultation there were concerns among stakeholders that wave energy extraction would reduce the height and quality of coastal waves for sur ng, as well as a ecting sediment transport and beach morphology. This thesis investigates the interaction between wave conditions, beach morphology, and beach water-users, and proposes how a wave climate altered by wave energy extraction is likely to alter these interactions. A multidisciplinary research approach is adopted, involving the collection of qualitative and quantitative social data, the collection of over 5 years of physical wave and beach morphology data, and predictive modelling of the e ects of an attenuated wave climate. Quantitative, structured interview data from 403 water-users, collected at two beaches (Perranporth and Porthtowan) in the lee of Wave Hub, indicate that the population of water-users in the area is predominantly made up of surfers (53%), but bodyboarding and swimming/bathing are also popular activities (29% and 11%, respectively). In-depth semi-structured interviews reveal that water-user perceptions of wave energy extraction and its potential coastal impacts are constructed using intuitive risk perceptions, rather than technical understanding. These risk perceptions are constructed through a weighing of their perception of wave energy devices ('technology') and their perception of the coastal environment ('nature'). To investigate how waves are perceived, nearshore wave buoy measurements collected in 14 m water depth and transformed to breaking height, are compared to concurrent visual observations of mean breaker height and period. On average water-users underestimated signi cant wave height and period by 48% and 17%, respectively. Accounting for variations in wave perception, the wave preferences of di erent water-user groups are determined. Water-users are found to share a common preference towards wave v periods of 9 - 20 s, but di erent water-user groups are found to have di erent ranges of preferred wave height, which is found to govern whether wave energy extraction will decrease or increase the occurrence of preferred waves. Previous research indicates that three-dimensional (3D) beach morphology with crescentic bar and rip features is the primary controller of surf-zone hazard, and also strongly in uences the quality of sur ng waves at the coast. A dataset of 5.5 years of quasi-weekly bar measurements, and quasi-monthly intertidal surveys from Perranporth beach is used to quantify seasonal to inter-annual changes in threedimensionality. Integrated, cumulative uctuations in wave steepness, wave power, and relative tide range that occur over seasonal time scales are shown to be well correlated to seasonal uctuations in beach three-dimensionality. 3D morphology is well related to a disequilibrium term that predicts increases or decreases in threedimensionality by examining the di erence between instantaneous wave conditions and a temporally varying equilibrium condition, based on a weighted average of antecedent waves. This indicates that periods of wave regime change between erosive winter conditions with high steepness waves and accretive summer conditions with low steepness waves are related to the growth of 3D features, and vice versa, while extended periods with similar wave conditions drive the beach towards equilibrium. Using a range of realistic and extreme coastal wave height attenuation scenarios determined from previous Wave Hub modelling studies, it is predicted that none of the scenarios will have a universally positive or negative e ect on the occurrence of wave conditions preferred by water-users. When used to predict beach threedimensionality at Perranporth beach, the attenuated wave climates are found to reduce the variability in three-dimensionality. Even an extreme and unrealistic level of wave energy extraction (100% energy capture) was shown to have an insigni cant e ect on the occurrence of preferred waves, and only under an extraction scenario where the impact was not varied with wave frequency did this level of attenuation have a signi cant e ect on the predicted beach three-dimensionality. The inshore wave attenuation from Wave Hub is therefore likely to have an insigni cant e ect on wave conditions and beach morphology of relevance to beach water-users. A number of observations and recommendations are discussed for the development of a sound and robust methodological approach, which can be used to investigate the e ects of wave energy extraction on beach water-users at future wave farm sites.

La thèse a pour objectif l'étude des plages sableuses enclavées, i.e. contraintes aux extrémités par des caps rocheux, soumises aux vagues et à un cycle de marée morte-eau vive-eau. Une double approche complémentaire liant études numériques et observations et mesures in situ sur un site-atelier a été retenue. Deux modèles déterministes basés sur les différents processus physiques (hydrodynamiques, hydro-sédimentaires et morphodynamiques) en jeu dans la zone littorale et moyennés sur la verticale (2DH) on été sélectionnés. Le code XBeach (Roelvink et al., 2009) utilise un maillage aux différences finies et intègre certaines spécificités tels qu'un modèle de propagation d'un rouleau d'écume ("roller"), un modèle de génération d'ondes longues et un modèle de développement d'un contre-courant de retour "undertow". Le code TELEMAC (Hervouet, 2007) utilise un maillage aux éléments finis. Pour le site-atelier, les plages enclavées adjacentes de La Palue et de Lostmarc'h en Presqu'île de Crozon (Finistère) ont été choisies pour leur bathymétrie complexe (présence de chenaux de baïne et d'un saillant) et leur géométrie complexe (caps rocheux de longueurs diverses, îlot). Une année d'observations et de mesures in situ (levés topographiques, pose de courantomètres ADV) a été entreprise entre le mois de septembre 2014 et le mois de septembre 2015, par diverses conditions météorologiques.Dans un premier temps, la dynamique globale des plages enclavées, représentées schématiquement par une échancrure rectangulaire, a été appréhendée. En particulier, la genèse d'une barre de déferlement en zone subtidale sous l'influence des dimensions de l'échancrure rocheuse, d'un cycle de marée morte-eau vive-eau et de houles énergétiques a été illustrée à travers plusieurs séries de simulations numériques à l'aide du code XBeach.Dans un deuxième temps, la modélisation hydrodynamique des courants sur les plages de La Palue et de Lostmarc'h a été effectuée, avec l'objectif d'étudier l'influence des caractéristiques des houles (hauteur, période et direction) et de celles de l'échancrure rocheuse (longueur des caps, espacement des caps, inclinaison des pointes) sur la prédiction des courants. Une ouverture sur la modélisation aux éléments finis (TELEMAC) en comparaison à celle aux différences finies (XBeach) a été présentée. Le code XBeach a été validé sur le plan hydrodynamique grâce aux mesures in situ d'une campagne de terrain réalisée en janvier 2015. Une étude numérique hydro-sédimentaire sur une lunaison complète (du 01 septembre 2015 au 29 septembre 2015) a alors été entreprise à l'aide du code XBeach, afin d'étudier l'intensité et la direction des flux sédimentaires instantanés et résiduels au gré des différents climats de houle et de marée, et selon les différents secteurs typologiques des plages de La Palue et de Lotsmarc'h. Cela a permis de mettre en évidence les particularités de la dynamique des plages enclavées par rapport aux plages ouvertes "quasi-infinies", tels que le phénomène de "contournement de cap", mais aussi les similitudes. Les résultats du code XBeach, pour différentes configurations du modèle, ont par ailleurs été comparés aux levés topographiques réalisés au cours du mois de septembre 2015.Dans un troisième temps, après une analyse statistique approfondie des climats de houle au large des plages de La Palue et de Lostmarc'h sur une période de 7 ans, l'impact morphodynamique de tempêtes extrêmes (houles décennale et cinquentennale) conjugué à celui de la hausse du niveau marin induit par le changement climatique, a été estimé sous la forme d'une étude numérique à l'aide du code XBeach sur un profil transversal au sud de la plage de La Palue / In this thesis, waves and neap-spring tide action on sandy embayed beaches constrained by rocky headlands is studied. A complementary approach combining numerical modeling and in situ measurements is used. Two deterministic model based on major physical processes (hydrodynamics, hydro-sedimentary and morphodynamics) present in the coastal zone and averaged over the water height (2DH) have been selected. XBeach (Roelvink et al., 2009) employs a finite difference scheme and incorporates some specific processes such as a roller, wave groups and the associated bound long wave and a undertow. TELEMAC (Hervouet, 2007) is a finite element scheme. Nearby sandy embayed beaches of La Palue and Lostmarc'h (Crozon Peninsula, Finistère) have been chosen for their complex bathymetry (rip channels, tombolo) and geometry (headlands, small island). One year of in situ measurements (topographical surveys, ADV velocimeters) between septembre 2014 and september 2015 has been undertaken, with different waves and tide climates.Firstly, the overall dynamics of embayed beaches built schematically in the form of a rectangular indentation has been caught. Especially, subtidal sandbar formation under the influence of waves, neap-spring tide and rocky headlands has been studied through several sets of numerical simulations.Secondly, hydrodynamic modelling on the embayed beaches of La Palue and Lostmarc'h has been made with the aim of study influence of waves characteristics (height, period and direction) and indentation's ones (headlands length, spacing between headlands, headlands inclination) on the prediction of currents. A simulation using finite element scheme (TELEMAC) has been achieved and compared to those using finite difference scheme (XBeach). XBeach currents predictions at two locations on the beaches of La Palue and Lostmarc'h over the period from the 21st January 2015 to the 23rd January 2015 have been compared to in situ measurements to validate the model. Whereupon, a numerical hydro-sedimentary simulation (using XBeach) over a full lunation from the 1st September 2015 to the 29th September 2015 has been undertaken on these two beaches, with the aim of study the intensity and direction of sediment flux (instantaneous and residual) for various waves and tide climates and for different morphological areas. This work has helped to highlight the dynamics features of embayed beaches compared to open beaches ones, such as headland sand bypassing, but also similarities. Moreover, XBeach morphodynamics predictions have been compared to in situ measurements for different model setup.Thirdly, after an in-depth statistical analysis of wave climates over a 7 year period offshore of La Palue and Lostmarc'h beaches, the morphodynamic impact of extreme storm waves (ten-yearly and fifty-yearly) combined to a sea level rise induced by climatic change on a cross-shore bottom profile south of La Palue has been estimated through a numerical study (using XBeach)

Le but de cette étude était de développer une méthodologie pour évaluer la résilience des littoraux aux évènements de tempêtes, à des échelles de temps différentes pour une plage située à une latitude moyenne (Biscarrosse, France). Un site pilote des tropiques, la plage de Jamestown (Ghana), non soumis aux tempêtes, a également été analysé. 6 ans (2007-2012) de données sur la position du trait de côte,obtenues quotidiennement par imagerie vidéo, ainsi que les prévisions hydrodynamiques (ECMWF EraInterim) ont été analysées. Le climat de vagues est dominé par les tempêtes (Hs> 5% de seuil de dépassement) et leurs fluctuations saisonnières; 75% des tempêtes se produisent en hiver, et plus de 60tempêtes ont été identifiées au cours de la période d'étude. Une régression multiple, montre qu’alors que les intensités des tempêtes actuelle et précédente ont un rôle majeur sur l'impact de la tempête, la marée et les barres sableuses jouent un rôle majeur sur la récupération de plage. La position moyenne du trait de côte calculée sur la période de récupération post-tempête montre que la plage de Biscarrosse se reconstruit rapidement (9 jours) après un évènement isolé et que les séries de tempêtes (clusters) ont un effet cumulatif diminué. Les résultats indiquent que le récurrence individuelle des tempêtes est clé. Si l'intervalle entre deux tempêtes est faible par rapport à la période de récupération, la plage devient plus résistante aux tempêtes suivantes; par conséquent, la première tempête d’une série a un impact plus important que les suivantes. Le trait de côte répond, par ordre décroissant, aux évènements saisonniers,à la fréquence des tempête et aux d’échelle annuelle. La méthode EOF montre de bonnes capacité à séparer la dynamique « uniforme » et « non-uniforme » du littoral et décrit différentes variabilités temporelles: les échelles saisonnières et à court terme dominent, respectivement, la première EOF (2D)et le second mode (3D). Le littoral de Jamestown a été étudié comme base d’un projet pilote entre 2013-2014. Les fluctuations du niveau de l'eau jouent un rôle prédominant sur l’évolution de la position du trait de côte. Les vagues et les estimations des marées obtenues par l’exploitation d’images vidéo sont corrélées avec les données de prévisions. Cette étude pionnière montre que cette technique peut être généralisée à toute l’Afrique de l'Ouest en tenant compte des multiples diversités et de la variabilité du climat régional, à travers un réseau d'observations. / The aim of this study was to develop a methodology to statistically assess the shorelineresilience to storms at different time scales for a storm-dominated mid-latitude beach(Biscarrosse, France). On a pilot base, storm-free tropical Jamestown beach (Ghana) was alsoanalysed. 6-years (2007-2012) of continuous video-derived shoreline data and hindcastedhydrodynamics were analysed. Wave climate is dominated by storms (Hs>5% exceedancelimit) and their seasonal fluctuations; 75% of storms occur in winter with more than 60identified storms during the study period. A multiple regression on 36 storms shows thatwhereas current and previous storm intensity have predominant role on current storm impact,tide and sandbar play a major role on the post-storm recovery. An ensemble average on poststormrecovery period shows that Biscarrosse beach recovers rapidly (9 days) to individualstorms, and sequences of storms (clusters) have a weak cumulative effect. The results point outthat individual storm recurrence frequency is key. If the interval between two storms is lowcompared to the recovery period, the beach becomes more resilient to the next storms; and thefirst storm in clusters has larger impact than following ones. Shoreline responds in decreasingorder at seasonal, storm frequency and annual timescales at Biscarrosse. The EOF methodshows good skills in separating uniform and non-uniform shoreline dynamics, showing theirdifferent temporal variability: seasonal and short-term scales dominate first EOF (2D) andsecond (3D) modes, respectively.The shoreline at Jamestown was studied on pilot base from 2013-2014. Water level channgesplay a major role on shoreline changes. Waves estimates from video are in good agreement withhindcasts. This study shows the potential of the technique, to be replicated elsewhere in WestAfrica with all its diversity and regional climate variability through a coastal observationnetwork.

Today mines produce metals which are used for everyday products by people worldwide. When metals are produced, waste products known as tailings are generated. These tailings are commonly stored in impoundments, surrounded by embankment dams. The demands from the society are constantly increasing regarding the quality and safety of dams. One step in development towards a better control regarding safety and quality of tailing dams, could be to compact the beach. Today there is a lack of methods to easy check the dry densities over large areas for a compacted material. Since these dams can be large structures with embankment lengths of several kilometers, it is necessary to be able to check the density with a fast method. In this thesis it was investigated if the dry density, and correspondingly the compaction, can be checked with a Dynamic Cone Penetrometer (DCP). In the thesis the dry density of tailings was compared with penetration rate of the DCP. A laboratory setup was made with a test box filled with tailings provided by Boliden AB from the Aitik mine. Six different box tests were performed, each test with different compaction. From the tests a trend was observed, for which the tailings increased in density as the DCP indexes showed an increased resistance. A relationship between DCP index and dry densities was found. Though a relationship was found, it is important to emphasize that the tests were carried out in an environment that was easy to control. One test with high water content showed that water was influencing the DCP index results. Therefore it was concluded that if the DCP will be used in field, the water content also has to be checked.

The St Francis Bay beach has experienced chronic erosion over the past three decades. This erosion can largely be attributed to the stabilisation of a large coastal dunefield which contributed +/- 80 percent of the sand supply to St Francis Bay. Stabilisation began in 1975 initially using plant cuttings and followed by the development of the Santareme holiday suburb resulting in complete stabilisation by 1985. Effects were felt from the late 1970‟s and since then the beach has retreated at between 0.5 - 3 m.yr-1. Erosion has encroached on beachfront properties since the early 1990‟s, leading to the placement of 3-4 m high unsightly rock revetments along much of the beach. Where properly maintained these structures have proved successful in protecting the properties behind, however exacerbated erosion of areas in front and adjacent to these structures is evident. Currently no dry beach is present at high tide for most of the year, leading to a significant reduction in beach amenity value. Several technical studies to investigate remediation of this beach erosion problem have been conducted since the early 1990‟s. This study includes investigations into the processes and dynamics of the existing environment and evaluation of the effectiveness and impacts of several elements of a hybrid approach to coastal protection and amenity enhancement for St Francis Bay beach. This proposal incorporated: Multi-Purpose Reefs (MPR‟s) offshore, for coastal protection and amenity enhancement in terms of surfing; beach nourishment with sand from the Kromme Estuary and dune rehabilitation with appropriate native sand binding species. Extensive fieldwork and data collection were conducted, this included: a series of bathymetric surveys; diving surveys and a helicopter flight; sediment sampling; beach profiling and deployment of a wave/current meter. Analysis of these data provided a greater understanding of the existing environment and dynamics of St Francis Bay and provided reliable inputs for numerical modelling. Numerical and physical modelling was conducted to assess the existing processes and conduct MPR design testing. In addition calibrated hydrodynamic modelling of the Kromme Estuary was conducted in order to assess the impacts of sand extraction from the large sand banks within the mouth of the Kromme Estuary for use as beach nourishment. Comparison of bathymetric survey data collected by the author in 2005/06 with survey data collected by the South African Navy Hydrographic Office (SANHO) in 1952 suggest a major loss of sand from the bay, with a volume difference of some 8.8 X 106 m3 calculated. Greater losses were measured between 10-15 m water depths, with shallow areas of +/- 5 m water depth, remaining more stable. This can be attributed to the presence of shallow reef and rocky substrate through much of the bay at this depth range. Monthly RTK GPS survey data from September 2006 to September 2007 indicates a total loss of 40 000 m3 over this period with the greatest losses measured along the northern part of the beach. The greatest losses were measured after large long period waves from a southerly to south-easterly direction occurred in conjunction with equinox tides in mid March 2007. Sediment sampling at over 100 locations within the bay indicated a high percentage of reef (26 percent) and fairly consistent grain size in the fine to medium size class throughout much of the beach, bay and large sand bank within the estuary. While the majority of the South African Coast is exposed to the predominant south westerly winds and waves, St Francis Bay‟s orientation means that waves from a south easterly to easterly direction dominate. The results of the detailed numerical modelling of the hydrodynamics agree with previous calculations and modelling results which concluded that strong unidirectional longshore currents occur along the headland due to the oblique angle of wave incidence and the close to parallel angle of wave incidence along the beach leads to weak longshore currents of variable direction. Erosion along St Francis Bay beach is a result of cross-shore erosion due to large waves from a southerly to easterly direction. Detached breakwaters are the most effective form of coastal protection in these environments and MPR‟s offer additional benefits over traditional breakwater structures. Results of empirical calculations and numerical modelling indicate that the MPR‟s will provide effective coastal protection through the processes of wave dissipation, wave rotation, salient formation and alteration of nearshore circulation. Physical modelling results allowed the MPR design to be assessed and refined in terms of surfing amenity enhancement and construction constraints. In addition numerical modelling results indicate that impacts due to the extraction of up to 600 000 m3 of sand from the lower Kromme Estuary result in highly localised velocity reduction, mainly limited to the extraction areas. The calculated rate of sediment influx into the lower Kromme Estuary indicates that limited extraction, in the order of 20 000 – 40 000 m3 per year, should be sustainable in the long term. Sedimentation of the lower estuary over recent years has had negative recreational and ecological impacts, through reduced navigability and water exchange respectively. Therefore both the estuary and beach systems prove to benefit from this approach. Although not investigated in detail as part of this study, evidence from numerous projects worldwide indicates that foredunes help to trap wind-blown sand on the beach and form a buffer to storm erosion, therefore dune rehabilitation with native sand-binding plant species was recommended as the third element of the proposed remediation of St Francis Bay beach.

This thesis examines narrative articulations in the films Bend It Like Beckham, Bhaji on the Beach, and American Chai as a complicated conversation in relation to bicultural-identity construction in the Indian diaspora. Unpacking the way desi identities are managed in/as a quantum (third) space – one that is continuously shifting and deferred – the films exemplify how "desi" is a heterogeneous cultural "group" without a homeland from which to speak or to return. The narratives of these films are considered cultural translations that expose inter-generational culture-clashes in the spaces between Indian and Western cultures. Screenplay pedagogy was used as a methodology to (re)read analysis of the films, revealing the ways that different movies employ and reinscribe themes of the multicultural pastoral, the carnivalesque, and melodrama, respectively. This thesis concludes by opening up some of the places from which individuals enunciate their desi identities, including the possibilities for (self)reflection.

The Nature Conservancy of Texas (TNC) is concerned with the amount of shoreline erosion taking place at its Mad Island Marsh Preserve (MIMP), located in Matagorda Bay, Texas. The MIMP is a 7,100 acre nature preserve that borders the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway and is eroded by waves generated by barge traffic. TNC is concerned that erosion will shorten Mad Island Bayou which may increase the salinity of Mad Island Lake; with detrimental effects on lake and marsh habitats. This study uses GPS technology to map the current shoreline and GIS to determine ten year erosion rates (1995 - 2005). Results show that erosion is occurring at various rates along the shoreline as well as along the oxbow bend in Mad Island Bayou.