Bakgrund På grund av den enorma konsumtion av textilier och kläder som sker i vissa delar av världen krävs ett förändrat förhållningssätt till hur de textilier och kläder som köps hanteras både under och efter användande. En stor påverkan har även de företag som designar, tillverkar och säljer produkterna. För att minska användandet av ändliga resurser krävs en strategi som förändrar dagens linjära flöden till ett slutet kretslopp där resurser används på nytt, om och om igen, en så kallad Closed-loop supply chain. Studiens syfte är att undersöka hur fyra svenska detaljhandelsföretag inom modebranschen arbetar med just Closed-loop supply chain och dess möjligheter och utmaningar med konceptet. Syftet är även att se hur företagen arbetar med återvinning och hållbarhet som är relevanta delar i ett fungerande cirkulärt flöde. Genomförande Den teoretiska referensramen beskriver konceptet Closed-loop supply chain och de delar som innefattas, framåtriktad och omvänd försörjningskedja. Den tar även upp sju processteg som måste hanteras för att skapa en Closed-loop supply chain för kläder och textilier. För att undersöka hur de fyra svenska detaljhandelsföretagen inom modebranschen arbetar för att uppnå ett cirkulärt flöde har en grundlig genomgång av respektive företags hållbarhetsrapporter gjorts. I empiriavsnittet presenteras förutom de fyra svenska detaljhandelsföretagen även ett antal organisationer som på något vis arbetar för att möjliggöra ett cirkulärt flöde inom textil- och modebranschen. För att få en bild av konsumenternas kännedom och attityd till återvinningsmöjligheter genomfördes även en enkätundersökning. Resultat För att skapa rätt förutsättningar för att skapa en Closed-loop supply chain krävs det att både den framåtriktade och den omvända försörjningskedjan är anpassad till det. Den framåtriktade försörjningskedjan kräver att klädesplaggen är designade för att enkelt kunna återvinnas och att de av konsumenten är hanterade på ett så hållbart sätt som möjligt. Den omvända försörjningskedjan kräver först och främst att kläderna samlas in. Vidare krävs att de insamlade kläderna sedan skickas vidare för sortering och därefter ta ett beslut om ett lämpligt återanvändningsalternativ. Slutligen omdistribueras produkten för att antingen återföras in i något processteg i den framåtriktade försörjningskedjan eller säljas på en andrahandsmarknad. Av den information som framkommit ur hållbarhetsrapporter och övrig informationsinsamling har det kunnat konstaterats att detaljhandelsföretagen har en lång väg att gå till dess att en Closed-loop supply chain fungerar till 100 %. / Background Due to the enormous consumption of textiles and clothing that takes place in some parts of the world, a changed approach is needed to handle the textiles and clothing that are purchased both during and after use. The companies that design, manufacture and sell the products also have a big impact. In order to reduce the use of finite resources, a strategy that changes today's linear flows into a closed cycle, where resources are recycled, a so-called Closed-loop supply chain, is required. The purpose of the study is to investigate how four Swedish retailers in the fashion industry work with Closed-loop supply chain and the possibilities and challenges with the concept. The purpose is also to find out how companies work with recycling and sustainability that are relevant parts of a functioning circular flow Implementation The theoretical reference framework describes the Closed-loop supply chain concept and the components that are included; forward and reverse supply chain. It also takes up seven process steps that must be handled to create a Closed-loop supply chain for clothes and textiles.To investigate how the four Swedish retail companies in the fashion industry work to achieve a circular flow, a profound review of the respective company's sustainability reports has been made. In the empirical section, apart from the four Swedish retail companies, there are also a number of organizations that in one way or another work to allow circular flow in the textile and fashion industry. In order to get a reflection of consumers' awareness and attitude towards recycling opportunities, a survey was also conducted. Results In order to create the right conditions for a Closed-loop supply chain, it is necessary to adapt both the forward and the reverse supply chain. The forward supply chain requires that the garments are designed to be easily recycled and that they are handled by the consumer in a sustainable way. The reverse supply chain primarily requires that the clothes are collected. Furthermore, the collected clothes are forwarded for sorting and then a decision of the garments reuse options has to be taken. Finally, the product is redistributed either back into any process in the forward supply chain or sold in a secondary market. From the information obtained from the sustainability reports and other information gathering, it has been found that retail companies have a long way to go until a Closed-loop supply chain operates to 100%.

Background: The discourse of sustainable development has over the recent years become increasingly vital, due to the fashion industry´s over lyexcessive use of natural resources and contribution to hyperconsumption. Hyper-consumption is part of the consequences of marketing, and consumers regard marketing of sustainability to be unreliable. Previous research has highlighted how communicating sustainability can increase sustainable consumption, however the realissue lies within reducing consumption overall. Using marketing to reduce consumption within the consumer is intricate, but in the light of this the generational segment female Millennials have shown to be prone towards reducing consumption. Purpose: The purpose of this thesis is to explore female millennials mind and values, mainly to be able to identify and form a way of communicating sustainability with the intent of reducing consumption, that is applicable for this segment. The aim is further to propose how this then can be applied and in what way it best should be implemented to finally reduce overall fashion consumption. Design/methodology/approach: This thesis uses an abductive research approach and a qualitative method. The research question is answered by conducting focus groups and illuminates the core determinants which are to be used as part of the development of the communication. Findings: The findings suggest that female millennials need to be motivated into realizing how reduced consumption can be a core value of them. A form of social marketing program is what has been determined to be a viable form of communication since it aligned with the social communicative ways that female millennials are receptive to. Originality/value: This thesis contributes by highlighting and identifying the underlying values and motivations which female millennials have towards sustainability marketing. Moreover, the results imply that female millennials are of valuable consideration for future research of how to communicate sustainability with the intention to reduce fashion consumption. Marketer can specifically learn what the determinants to include in a social benefit program and thereby create valuable concrete results in terms.

La industria de la moda acarrea consigo consecuencias negativas para el medio ambiente al posicionarse como la segunda industria más contaminante del mundo, tales como el agotamiento de recursos no renovables y la acumulación de desechos y residuos textiles. Debido a esto, diseñadores de todas partes del mundo están optando por el upcycling, una técnica de diseño que consiste en recuperar las prendas y fibras en desuso para crear nuevas propuestas de indumentaria exclusiva, y de mayor valor de diseño. No obstante, existen desafíos para la industria de Moda Sostenible de Latinoamérica tales como el desconocimiento, los hábitos de consumo, la logística pobre de residuos y la falta de inversión en maquinaria industrial especializada en sostenibilidad. El presente proyecto tiene como objetivo principal el desarrollo de un proyecto de diseño a partir del análisis teórico y visual de los diseñadores latinoamericanos que utilizan el upcycling como base de sus colecciones alrededor del mundo. / The fashion industry carries with it negative consequences for the environment when positioning itself as the second most polluting industry in the world. Problems such as the depletion of non-renewable resources and the accumulation of waste and textile residues. Due to this, designers from all over the world are opting for the upcycling, a design technique that consists of recovering disused garments and fibers to create new proposals for exclusive clothing with a higher design value. However, there are challenges for the Sustainable Fashion Industry in Latin America such as ignorance, consumer habits, poor waste logistics and lack of investment in industrial machinery specialized in sustainability. The present research has as general objective the development of a design project based on the theoretical and visual analysis of Latin American contemporary designers who use upcycling as the basis of their collections. / Trabajo de investigación

La evolución de una nueva conciencia sobre problemas medioambientales provocó un cambio en la toma de decisiones de las personas respecto a su estilo de vida. Es por esta razón que el veganismo cobra mayor relevancia, pues se caracteriza en no solo ser un consumo libre de productos de origen animal sino también es un estilo de vida basado en la ética. El principal objetivo de este estilo de vida radica en el interés por involucrarse en un cambio pensando en el bienestar y desarrollo del futuro. El proyecto estudia la conexión y sensibilidad que caracteriza al vegano respecto a su preocupación por los animales y el cuidado del medio ambiente. La presente investigación tiene como objetivo proponer un proyecto de diseño a partir del estudio teórico y visual del veganismo. Para la colección se tomó como principal inspiración los colores de alimentos y la naturaleza, los cuales se trasladan a siluetas y texturas dentro de la colección. Asimismo, se busca transmitir el veganismo mediante el uso de procesos sostenibles, tintes naturales y materiales de origen vegetal. / The evolution of a new awareness of environmental problems caused a change in people's decision-making regarding their lifestyle. It is for this reason that veganism becomes more relevant, since it is not only as a free consumption of products of animal origin but also a lifestyle based on ethics. The main objective of this lifestyle lies in the interest to get involved in a change, thinking about the well-being and development of the future. The project studies the connection and sensitivity that characterizes vegan people regarding their concern for animals and caring for the environment. The present research aims to propose a design project based on the theoretical and visual study of veganism. The present research aims to propose a design project based on the theoretical and visual study of veganism. The main inspiration for the collection was food colors and nature, which are transferred to silhouettes and textures within the collection. Likewise, it seeks to transmit veganism through the use of sustainable processes, natural dyes and materials of plant origin. / Trabajo de investigación

The fashion industry has faced a radical change in how the market has been operating towards a more digitized landscape, and several fashion brands have started developing greater customer experiences as well as engaging the consumers with conveyance of authentic content. Since fashion collaborations can increase awareness and have an immense impact on the consumers’ perception, the concept of creating sustainable collaborations have become an ideal way to meet the needs of the millennial consumers. The topic of sustainable fashion collaborations has started to emerge and the way it is perceived by consumers appears to be unstudied, which makes it very fascinating to analyse. The purpose of this study is to investigate consumers’ response towards sustainable fashion collaborations and how these co-branding projects are marketed to and perceived by millennials. On the basis of this purpose, the following research questions have been formulated: How are sustainable fashion collaborations communicated in the consumers’ eyes? How is the response of millennial consumers towards sustainable fashion collaborations? This study was conducted with an abductive approach, and data was obtained from literature and interviews. A qualitative method was applied, with the definition of four case studies to analyse through semi-structured interviews conducted with twelve millennial consumers. Messages and campaigns can not be superficially developed and need to be explanatory to the eyes of consumers, in order to avoid greenwashing and generating the need to fill in communication gaps. In this sense, storytelling also resulted to be a positive addition to the communication of sustainable fashion collaborations, creating an emotional connection with consumers. Since positive sustainable associations to a brand can only be developed through recognition, this aspect is also fundamental when communicating sustainable products. Moreover, millennial consumers require brands to have a balanced communication in terms of sustainability and fashion content, even when it comes to sustainable fashion collaborations. To conclude, it can be said that millennial consumers are definitely drawn to social media communication, but if brands want to reach a wider audience with their products and sustainability efforts, millennials themselves suggest the use of other communication channels. This study can, in the long-term, contribute to the knowledge and strategies of fashion companies and understanding the needs and expectations of consumers towards the communication of current matters like sustainability.

Background: In the last decade, the world has been facing global challenges of climate change as the climate has worsened significantly. Excessive consumption has been identified as one of the biggest contributors to the climate change where people purchase more products than what meets the basic needs. The excessive consumption of products has been prominent in the fashion industry, where female consumers generally purchase more clothes than men. Today, the fashion industry is dominated by fast fashion, where consumers purchase more clothes with a shorter life span. Thus, the fashion waste increases, leaving serious environmental effects. Sweden is said to be one of the greenest countries in the world but is still one of the countries with the highest levels of consumption globally. The private consumption is high in Sweden and one of the biggest consumer markets that have a negative effect on the environment is the fashion industry. As a result, sustainable fashion consumption is becoming more important.   Purpose: The purpose of this study is to explore the sustainable behavior of Swedish female consumers and later understand how different factors is affecting the IB gap in sustainable (secondhand) fashion consumption.   Method: To be able to achieve the purpose of this exploratory study, a qualitative research strategy was applied. The empirical data was collected through in-depth interviews held with Swedish female consumers with intentions to purchase secondhand fashion, which later was interpreted and analyzed through an abductive approach, incorporating a thematic analysis.   Conclusion: The results of this study showed that the behavior of intenders can be characterized by sustainable intentions that do not translate into behavior. Further, the behavior can be characterized by a weak social support system (barrier), poor availability (barrier), low task- and maintenance self-efficacy, high recovery self-efficacy, and no planning. In addition, the results of this study showed that the behavior of actors can be characterized by sustainable intentions and sustainable behavior. Further, the behavior can be characterized by a strong social support system, good availability, high task- and recovery self-efficacy, medium to high maintenance self-efficacy, and planning. The comparison between intenders and actors showed that the perceived barriers for intenders was contributing factors to the IB gap together with their low task- and maintenance self-efficacy through their most likely negative effect on intenders planning. Intenders lack of planning was shown to serve as a negative mediator between intention and behavior, which thereby contributes to the IB gap. While the recovery self-efficacy was high for both intenders and actors, actors has recovery self-efficacy for the desired behavior of purchasing secondhand on a regular basis, while intenders does not.

The Brazilian textile industry has many years of experience in producing apparel within the country. Brazil is a country with a well developed supply chain, yet they import a big amount of manufactured textile products from Asia each year. Globalization has made fashion brands look outside of the country's borders to be able to deliver a good price to the end consumer. In this study an investigation has been made to elucidate why the apparel companies import from Asia, what is imported from Asia and how the image of the companies would be affected by working more sustainably by utilizing the existing resources available in Brazil. In order to learn why companies do import, semi-structured interviews have been made with people who work and have good knowledge regarding this subject. To put this matter into context a Brazilian apparel company named Cia.hering has been used as an exponent for this report. This to get a more clear view on how the company might be affected by producing more locally and if it would be possible. To learn about how the Brazilian consumers look at sustainable fashion and what they think of Cia.Hering as a company a survey has been conducted. The outcome of this study shows that the consumers have a big effect on how companies choose to produce but that it is up to the individual apparel company to choose how they want to produce their goods. Producing locally makes it a lot easier to control the full supply chain and to work as a more transparent company.

Background: Given consumers’ rising awareness of the environmental damages caused by the fashion industry, brands now discuss sustainability in relation to their products often through using social media platforms. With the ambition to shift consumers’ purchasing behavior, firms strive to collaborate with influencers to endorse their sustainable products. Following the increased discussion about sustainability and sustainable fashion online, a new niche of influencers has appeared. However, it remains unexplored how the Swedish Gen Z perceives this category of influencers. Purpose: The purpose of the research is to understand how the Swedish Gen Z perceives sustainable [fashion] influencers on Instagram. More precisely, the study attempts to explore how this generation of consumers responds to these influencers with regards to their trustworthiness, expertise, attractiveness, brand fit, (un)sponsored content, and communication style.  Method: In order to fulfill the purpose of the research, a qualitative study was conducted. The research is of exploratory nature and empirical data was collected through four focus group interviews. The respondents were chosen through a purposive sampling technique, including Swedish Gen Zers who have an active Instagram account. Conclusion: The study found that the Swedish Gen Z responds favorably to sustainable influencers on Instagram. Particularly, this generation supports thrifting influencers the most as they foresee the future of sustainable fashion to be in the hands of this category.

Date:2022-06-02 Level:Master Thesis in Business Administration, 15cr Institution:School of Business, Society and Engineering, Mälardalen University Authors:Agostina Romano(92/08/23) Olivia Gurås (98/01/21) Title:Fashion shouldn’t cost the Earth: an exploratory study on small businesses driving sufficiency in the Swedish fashion industry Supervisor:Edward Gillmore Research Questions:RQ1: How do small firms management develop and implement strategies to promote sufficient consumption? RQ2: How do small firms implement stakeholder management to minimize the challenges caused by the promotion of sufficient consumption? Purpose:To provide a better understanding of the processes, factors and forces that enable companies to promote sufficient consumption, and how they manage to overcome challenges with internal and external stakeholders that are created by the implementation of sufficient consumption practices Methodology:Being an exploratory qualitative research, this study uses primary data collected through 6 semi-structured interviews with management roles of 4 sustainable companies, as well as secondary data obtained from official data bases, books, and websites. Conclusion:Small businesses in the fashion industry implement different sustainable strategies that promote sufficient consumption among others. Whether they are designed and implemented with sufficiency as a goal or not, these strategies bear challenges with multiple stakeholders that firms must face. Some of the main challenges are related to consumer and supplier resistance, as well as lack of awareness, challenging governance, and the internal sustainability vs. profitability debate. This study empirically contributes to past literature in terms of strategies and challenges, and it contributes theoretically in terms of solutions put in place through stakeholder management. Keywords:CSR, Stakeholder Management, Sustainability, Sufficiency, Sufficient Consumption, Sustainable Fashion

Background:           Today’s fashion industry is one of the most wasteful and polluting industries, which contributes to a global concern. A transition from a linear to a circular approach is needed, in which consumers play a key role. Clothing rental subscription is among the sustainable business models that aim to reduce the production and disposal of clothes by increasing their utilization and extending their lifetime. Based on the attitude-intention relation from the Theory of Planned Behavior and on current literature, we develop a theoretical framework. Purpose:                  The purpose of this study is to investigate the influences of perceived sustainability, perceived enjoyment, perceived financial risk, perceived performance risk, fashion leadership, psychological ownership and perceived convenience on consumers’ attitudes towards clothing rental subscription services and their intentions to engage in this circular fashion business model. Method:                  To fulfill the purpose, we conducted a quantitative study. Primary data was collected through online questionnaires, resulting in 282 responses from German females. Multiple linear regression analyses were conducted to identify the influences of the above-mentioned factors on attitude and on intention. Lastly, a linear regression analysis was used to test attitude’s influence on intention. Conclusion:               The results show that consumers’ attitudes towards clothing rental subscription are positively influenced by the perceived sustainability and perceived enjoyment of the business model, and negatively influenced by perceived financial risk and perceived performance risk. Their intentions to participate in clothing rental subscription were shown to be positively influenced by perceived enjoyment and attitude, while negatively influenced by perceived financial risk. Focusing on one clothing rental business model, we contribute to research in the field and provide valuable implications for practitioners.