Esta pesquisa apresenta um estudo sobre a aplicação da estratégia de design zero waste como instrumento de ensino, objetivando desenvolver noções de design sustentável em estudantes de curso técnico de moda. O zero waste (zero resíduos) possui um método de criação cujo principal objetivo é não gerar resíduos sólidos têxteis durante o processo de confecção da roupa, que possam impactar o meio ambiente. É uma técnica ainda pouco conhecida no Brasil e pouco utilizada, tanto no ensino técnico de moda quanto nas empresas. Este estudo apresenta uma pesquisa bibliográfica e pesquisa-ação sobre a técnica de design zero waste, com a finalidade de evoluir com as experiências e pesquisas já realizadas sobre o assunto e identificar referências que possam incrementar atividades aplicáveis ao ensino técnico de moda. Diante disso, propõe-se um conjunto de exercícios de design sustentável utilizando a técnica zero waste. Os exercícios são aplicados em forma de workshop para gerar informações que possam contribuir com a discussão de resultados sobre a sua aplicabilidade e aceitação / This research presents a study on the application of the zero waste design technique as a teaching tool, aiming to develop notions of sustainable design in fashion technical course students. Zero waste has a method of creation whose main objective is not to generate solid textile waste during the garment making process, which can impact the environment. It is a technique still little known in Brazil and little used, both in fashion teaching and in companies. This study presents a bibliographical research and action research on the technique of zero waste design, in order to learn from the experiences and research already done on the subject and to identify references that may increase activities applicable to fashion technical teaching. Therefore, a set of exercises of sustainable design using the zero waste technique is proposed. The exercises are applied in the form of a workshop to generate information that can contribute to the discussion of results on its applicability and acceptance

Purpose – This thesis aims to contribute to the understanding of the Chinese customers’ perception and acceptance of eco-conscious apparel (ECA) based on the theory of planned behavior (TPB). The thesis further examines whether people would like to pay more for ECA and how the factor of willingness to pay a premium is influenced by TPB variables. Design/methodology/approach – The research design is based on quantitative methodology. The data were collected via a web-based survey, a total of 315 responses from Chinese consumers were analyzed with application of the structural equation modeling. Findings – Both attitude toward ECA and perceived behavioral control over ECA acquisition have positive influence on ECA purchasing intention. Willingness to pay a premium for ECA is only positively affected by subjective norm. There is no correlation between ECA purchasing intention and willingness to pay a premium for ECA. Implications – To raise Chinese customers’ purchasing intention, fashion company should focus their actions on disseminating environmental information and knowledge, and offer affordable ECA options with the properties close to traditional apparel. To evoke the willingness to pay a premium for ECA, fashion company can apply celebrity endorsement to add perceived social value into its ECA series. Such actions will contribute to formation of positive social norm and hence positive perception towards ECA. Meanwhile, the government can put more efforts into educating Chinese people about sustainability issues in fashion industry, formulating and implementing policies in favor of ECA consumption, so that a positive social atmosphere for ECA consumption could be created. Originality/value – This study is novel in applying TPB for examining the consumer purchasing of apparel containing recycled fiber in China. The thesis provides useful information to corporate practitioners on how to formulate ECA marketing strategies in China. Research findings are also of relevance for Chinese government by providing recommendations for formulating relevant policies to favor the ECA consumption.

In the last two decades a drive for sustainable fashion emerged, grew and ultimately failed. In its beginnings the boom of green fashion and the saturation of labelled so-called sustainable garments, followed by the realization that most of the labelling did not hold any consistency behind it, overwhelmed consumers and made them immune to the effects of green marketing. This occurred because of the approach the fashion industry took regarding the topic. They needed to sell their products no matter what, and if a green tag with a recycling logo and a “green is the new black” motto would help them, they would embrace it. However, after several scandals and inquiries about the validity of the sustainable claims advertised, consumers grew rapidly disappointed and eventually unconcerned, falling back into their usual consumption habits without regard for ethical and environmental aspects. Nevertheless, once uncovered, the issues emerging from the production of garments could not be hidden once again, and companies were then required to take regulatory measures in order to mitigate the effects of the industry, if only to satisfy the general public’s knowledge and perceptions of the brands. As is well known this is not yet standard procedure and the ideal scenario for sustainable fashion production is still a road that continues on, but a small battle was won in the sustainability agenda and corporate social responsibility is nowadays common practice within large enterprises, again, if only for the sake of their stakeholders view. The truth, however, proves to be that this is not enough. Of the main environmental issues caused by clothing, not production, but use and consumption proved to be the most critical points in the larger picture. The amount of water, energy and waste created by laundering alone poses one of the biggest threats to the sustainable fashion notion, as well as the ever increasing textile waste in landfills. These issues are related entirely to each individual user and their actions, but the endeavor of making the large public aware of this issue is being undertaken by several, relatively small enterprises both private and public that don’t seem to be succeeding according to the studies. The public is not going to voluntarily wake up and undertake the quest for consuming and disposing sustainably unless they become aware first of their actions, and are given enough infrastructure to do so. This thesis concentrates on the problematic of consumer awareness regarding both use and disposal phases as well as the existing or possible solutions that help mitigate the devastating effects on the environment clothing is causing nowadays. / Program: Master programme in Fashion Management

Bakgrund och problem: Under de senaste 20 åren har en global oro växt kring konsumtionens påverkan på miljön. Faktorer som den globala uppvärmningen, hål i ozonlagret samt katastrofer som Tjernobyl var några av drivkrafterna. Historiskt börjar nu den gröna marknadsföringen att framträda på marknaden. Den delades in i tre faser varav en fas representerar marknadsföring av miljövänliga produkter, designade för att främja en hållbar konsumtion (Mishra & Sharmra, 2012). Det är dock under 2000-talet som konsumenternas miljömedvetenhet leder till en ekologisk trend och livsstil. Forskare menar att ekonomisk tillväxt är den bidragande faktorn till ett ohållbart utnyttjande av jordens resurser. Således ligger framtiden i effektivisering, återvinning och ny miljövänlig teknologi för att resurserna ska räcka till. Allmänheten i industrialiserade länder är väl medvetna om de negativa effekter som deras konsumtionsbeteende har på miljön. Den ökade kunskapen bidrar till en efterfråga på ekologiska varor. De ekologiska produkterna skapar nya möjligheter för differentiering och konkurrensfördelar för företag. Men är inom klädbranschen en minoritet då konsumenternas etiska värderingar inte sammanfaller med deras prioriteringar vid ett klädköp. Problemet stärks ytterligare då klädindustrin är byggt på komplicerade system där produktionen består av lågkostnads kläder som produceras i kostnadseffektiva länder. Företag måste se över modegrad och kvalitet vid produktion av ekologiska kläder.

Syftet med studien är att genom en kvalitativ forskningsmetod analysera hur mindre varumärken arbetar med - och i framtiden kan och ämnar arbeta med hållbarhetsstrategier i förhållande till expansion. Denna uppsats analyserar både företag och företags hållbarhetsrapporter samtidigt som den ger forskares syn på ämnet. För studien har en abduktiv forskningsansats använts. Forskningsmetoden är kvalitativ och djupintervjuer har gjorts med 6 olika informanter. För intervjuerna har en semistrukturerad intervjumall använts. Intervjuernas resultat har tytt på att kunskapsnivån om hållbarhetsstrategier hos företag är relativt låg men att intresset för en högre kunskapsnivå finns. Huruvida ett mindre modeföretag arbetar med hållbarhet verkar bero på storlek på företaget. Hur väl en hållbarhetsstrategi kan passa på ett företag verkar också bero på storlek på företaget. / The purpose of the study is to analyze, through a qualitative research method, how smaller brands work with - and in the future can and aims to work on sustainability strategies in relation to expansion. This paper analyzes both companies and manufactures sustainability reports while providing researchers views on the topic. For the study an abductive research approach has been used. The research method is qualitative and in-depth interviews have been conducted with 6 different informants. For the interviews a semi structured interview has been used. Interview results have shown that the level of knowledge about sustainability strategies at companies is relatively low, but that interest in a higher level of knowledge exists. Whether a small fashion company works with sustainability seems to depend on the size of the company. How well a sustainability strategy can suit a business also seems to depend on the size of the company.

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This research explores one avenue for achieving sustainability within the fashion industry; which as it exists today is unsustainable. The Slow Fashion movement has an existing foundation in the larger fashion industry and is already making strides towards sustainability. The authors used this opportunity to examine a strategic approach, as its current approach is ad hoc. First, the authors assessed the Slow Fashion movement using the 5 level Framework for Strategic Sustainable Development. To analyze the Slow Fashion movement further, the concept of Leverage Points was used to provide a focused lens to assist the author’s in navigating through the fashion industry’s complex system. Findings were synthesized into thirty strategic recommendations that target various players in the Slow Fashion movement. Three key recommendations will provide the most leverage in strengthening the Slow Fashion movement: 1) Co-create Slow Fashion Principles to represent the values of the movement and a shared definition of sustainability 2) Establish an overarching global network and local chapters for the Slow Fashion movement 3) Harmonize global garment and textile labelling initiatives under a Slow Fashion label.

Microinfluencers är ett relativt nytt och outforskat fält inom marknadsföring och är en utveckling av den mer frekvent använda termen influencers. Microinfluencers har på senare tid väckt företagens intresse då de, till skillnad från influencers med en bredare följarskara, bedöms uppnå ett större engagemang och en högre grad av förtroende inom sin specifika nisch. I denna studie undersöks nischen hållbart mode och microinfluencers subjektiva uppfattning står i fokus. Det som studeras är microinfluencerns funktion, informationsflöden och samarbeten. För att få inblick i detta genomförs fyra semistrukturerade intervjuer. En kvalitativ innehållsanalys används för att bearbeta vårt datamaterial. När datamaterialet analyseras blir det tydligt att en microinfluencer fyller flera mångfasetterade och komplicerade funktioner. Funktioner som har kunnat urskiljas är: Att debattera och kritisera, att inspirera, att erbjuda information och vägledning, att marknadsföra, samt att agera företag och varumärke. Dessa samspelar med microinfluencerns informationsflöden där två kommunikatörer har kunnat bekräftas; följare och företag. Denna studie belyser även en till kommunikatör; andra influencers. I resultatet av denna studie relateras microinfluencerns funktion med dennes informationsflöden och utifrån detta presenteras rekommendationer och riktlinjer till företag i sina samarbeten med microinfluencers. / Microinfluencers is a relatively new and unexplored field of marketing and is a development of the more commonly used term; influencers. Businesses has recently started to raise interest for microinfluencers, as they, unlike influencers with a broader range of followers, are expected to achieve greater commitment and a greater degree of trust in their specific niche. The niche explored in this study is sustainable fashion and focus lies in the subjective opinion of microinfluencers. The function of microinfluencers, their information flows and their view on collaboration is being studied. To gain insight into this, four semi structured interviews have been conducted. We have used a qualitative content analysis to process our data. When analyzing the data it becomes clear that a microinfluencer has several multifaceted and complex functions. Features that have been identified are: To debate and critizise, to inspire, to provide information and guidance, to market, and act as a company and brand. These interact with the microinfluencer’s information flows where two communicators have been confirmed; followers and companies. This study also shines a light on a third important communicator; other influencers. In the result of this study, the microinfluencers’ functions are related to their information flows, and with this as a basis recommendations and guidelines for companies in their collaborations with microinfluencers are presented. This thesis is written in Swedish.

Con la evolución de las redes de internet, las empresas han desarrollado una estrategia omnicanal para incrementar sus ventas. Sin embargo, los consumidores aún mantienen cierto grado de desconfianza que los limita a realizar compras por internet. Por ello, estos desarrollan un comportamiento Webrooming que es la búsqueda de información online del producto para luego comprarlo en la tienda física. Con ello, algunas marcas de moda han logrado identificar ese comportamiento y desarrollar su estrategia utilizando a las redes sociales como vitrinas digitales y, a través del presente trabajo de investigación, se enfoca el desarrollo de las marcas de moda sostenible, las cuales otorgan un valor más ético e ideal a sus productos a través de la calidad de su post, la información ofrecida dentro del post y la percepción de las variables del producto en la tienda física. / With the evolution of internet, companies have developed an omnichannel strategy to increase sales. However, consumers still maintain a degree of distrust that limits them to making purchases over the Internet. For this reason, they are developing a Webrooming behavior that is the search of online information of the product to buy it at the physical store. With it, some fashion brands have been able to identify their behavior and develop their strategy using social networks as digital showcases and, through this research, focus on developing sustainable fashion brands whose gives more ethical and ideal thoughts with their products through the quality of your post, the information offered within the post and the perception of the variables of the product in the physical sales store. / Trabajo de investigación

The fast fashion companies are growing with their cheap and trendy clothing, promoting people to adapt to new trends and to consume. At the same time, many fast fashion companies have started to advertise sustainable strategies which are communicated though social media. The aim of this research is therefore to investigate social media as a channel for fast fashion companies to communicate sustainable fashion advertisement, by looking at the Swedish market and the generation Y. A qualitative method was used, and the data was collected though semi-structed interviews. The conclusion of this study is that social media as a channel for fast fashion companies to communicate sustainable fashion advertisement, is not that effective, at least not how it is used to today. The sustainable advertisement on social media is not making the consumers of generation Y to purchase sustainable and the messages and content they communicate is not affecting generation Ys intention to purchase sustainable clothing. The communication from fast fashion companies regarding sustainable advertisements on social media should either be revised in order to meet the consumers demands, or to use another media channel to reach generation Y.