El objetivo es conocer la influencia de la moda sostenible en la exportación de cárdigan de fibra de alpaca a EE.UU. en la región Arequipa entre el 2014 al 2020. Se identificaron tres categorías: la participación del estado, la formación de asociaciones y las certificaciones. Se realizó una investigación cualitativa – exploratoria con un diseño de investigación de teoría fundamentada con la finalidad de analizar y describir, determinar causas y validar teorías sobre la influencia de la moda sostenible, entrevistando a 22 actores claves. Concluimos que la moda sostenible es una necesidad transversal que involucra temas sociales, económicos y medioambientales. Se necesita inversión estatal en la cadena de valor de la alpaca para asegurar la sostenibilidad. Se determinó que las empresas exportadoras cuenten con certificaciones, sin ser indispensable para el mercado estadounidense, con respecto a la trazabilidad del producto los consumidores son más exigentes y se interesan por conocer su origen. En cuanto a las asociaciones, pueden convertirse en la solución para los criadores, generando ventajas competitivas, confiabilidad, estandarizando procesos, mejorar la calidad y lograr añadir valor para un mejor precio, sin embargo, debido a la idiosincrasia, falta de educación y desconocimiento de la asociatividad no logran formarse y las formadas fracasan o no escalan a un nivel competitivo. Finalmente, se encontraron hallazgos vinculados a la digitalización como promoción de los productos y acceso a nuevos mercados, desarrollo de mercado interno para mantenerse en esta actividad de crianza y el interés por el consumidor actual en conocer la historia detrás del producto. / The objective is to know the influence of sustainable fashion on the export of alpaca fiber cardigans to the United States in the Arequipa region between 2014 and 2020. Three categories were identified: state participation, association formation and certifications. A qualitative-exploratory research was carried out with a grounded theory research design in order to analyze and describe, determine causes and validate theories about the influence of sustainable fashion, interviewing 22 key actors. We conclude that sustainable fashion is a cross-cutting need that involves social, economic and environmental issues. State investment is needed in the alpaca value chain to ensure sustainability. It was determined that the exporting companies have certifications, without being essential for the US market, with respect to the traceability of the product, consumers are more demanding and are interested in knowing its origin. As for the associations, they can become the solution for breeders, generating competitive advantages, reliability, standardizing processes, improving quality and managing to add value for a better price, however, due to the idiosyncrasy, lack of education and ignorance of associativity cannot be formed and those formed fail or do not scale to a competitive level. Finally, findings related to digitization were found, such as promotion of products and access to new markets, development of the internal market to stay in this breeding activity, and interest by the current consumer in knowing the history behind the product. / Tesis

No description available.

This case study examines how luxury fashion brands communicate their sustainability practices on the brands' sustainability page on the company's website and whether selected luxury fashion brands are greenwashing and bluewashing. The luxury brands selected for this study are Stella McCartney and Gucci, on the grounds that both brands have different types of businesses and approaches. To understand the context, this study uses the triple bottom line sustainability concept by Elkinton (1998), sustainable luxury fashion brands (Godart & Seong ,2017; Wiedmann et al., 2009; Joey et al.,2012; and Franco et al. 2019), greenwashing concept by Delmas & Burbano (2011) and bluewashing concept (Sailer et al., 2022). To conduct the analysis, this study uses textual, eco-lexicon categorization developed by Thomas (2008) and the categorization from Milanesi et al. (2022) is adapted for visual analysis and the sins of greenwashing by Terra Choice (2010) to see the potential of greenwashing. The results shows that Stella McCartney and Gucci sustainable communication serves as their marketing strategy which encourage purchase and therefore it is problematic. Both brands use vague, ambiguous words, terms, and certifications and lack of transparency. While the images are not yet seen as a potential tool to communicate sustainability initiatives. Even though the brands are known as sustainable fashion brands, the result demonstrates brands show irrelevancies and paradoxes between what the brands communicate and their actual practices ; therefore show potential greenwashing and bluewashing.

No description available.

時尚產業快速蓬勃發展，讓其生產鏈共同製造出的環境污染，已讓我們不得不正視其嚴重性，涵括了全球大量使用農藥的棉花田、面料染色需要大量的水資源、第三世界的血汗工廠、以及大量生產的廉價服飾，人們的慾望不斷被挑起，低廉的價格讓人們得以毫不節制地不斷購買服飾，穿不到的服飾變成在第三世界被掩埋的垃圾，這些對環境的傷害和浪費的資源，已遠超過我們可以回收的資源了。時尚產業已成為繼石油之後，位居環境汙染的No.2的幫兇。當一切的美意不再，時尚產業開始省思甚麼才是真正的美好?時尚產業所創造的社會價值是甚麼? 現行「從搖籃到墳墓」(cardle-to-grave)的產品設計不僅在環境上造成傷害，也缺乏經濟效益，因此在許多方面，尋求永續性的替代方案， 發展出創新的再利用方法所帶來的利益， 將比大部分人所能想像的還要多。 本研究主要的目的在於了解並釐清通過回收再造的循環經濟理念，時尚產業的企業以創造社會價值為前提，以商業手法獲取合理利潤得以持續經營的商業模式創新。因此，在研究問題上首先將先釐清循環經濟的本質與面貌，接著探討時尚產業對環境之衝擊和影響以及永續時尚的定義和商品結構。同時，藉由國內外最新的循環經濟的商業模式創新分析，與研究者對於時尚產業運作方式的資料收集，深入剖析永續時尚如何結合消費市場變化與社會的脈絡二者合而為一的過程，以提供國內時尚產業了解國際永續時尚營銷市場的脈動與需求，以提昇開發全球永續時尚產品的能力。 並藉由研究結果提供國內時尚產業對永續時尚資訊運用上，與歐美時尚產業同步運作的速度，並統整永續時尚產業鏈的機制與系統，以期台灣時尚產業、製造業成為發展永續時尚的亞太區重心。通過研究的探討，研究者以永續時尚為核心，提出創新商業模式。以平台概念串接消費者和供應商使其為橋梁，將永續時尚資訊收集途徑系統化，並能使其資訊透明化和有提供有效環保數據，並銷售得到消費者信賴的對地球友善之商品選項，期待成為有利於雙方的商業模式。 / Due to rapid developments in the fashion industry, the transformed production chain has created high environmental impacts. There are various sources in the production processes that casued destructions to the world, for example: the use of pesticides in cotton fields, fabric dyeing consuming great amount of water resources, the use of the third world Sweatshops, and a mixture of strategies of mass-produced cheap clothing. Consumers’ desires are constantly being provoked by those low-price and fast fashion while clothes were thrown to the third world to be buried. The pace of waste generation is far more faster than the speed of material recycling. It’s time to think about values verse demages created by the fashion industry. The primary goal of this study is to understand and clarify the concept of circular economy that promotes greater resource productivity. The aim is to reduce waste and avoid pollution by promoting a sustainable fashion design model on a crowdsourcing platform. Sustainable fashion is a part of the growing design philosophy and trend of sustainability, it is to create an eco-system which can be supported indefinitely in terms of human impact on the environment and social responsibility. The system can be seen as an alternative trend against fast fashion. For these purposes, this study will clarify the relationship of circular economy and fashion industry though the primary focus has remained on improving the impacts of productive processing and material provenance. Meanwhile, the study will examine business cases of circular economy to enhance the development of sustainable fashion platform. The findings are useful for Taiwan fashion industry to strengthen their design and development of sustainable fashion to lead Asia Pacific center. The study explored the influence of sustainable fashion on aspects of design, production, marketing, and innovative business model. The proposed platform provides information and goods of sustainable fashion and builds a channel which connects suppliers and consumers.

Syftet med denna studie är att bidra med kunskap om hur människor bortförklarar, bortprioriterar och förskjuter ansvar för hållbar konsumtion. Vi använde oss av en kvalitativansats där vi utförde semi-strukturerade intervjuer med totalt 7 respondenter. Datamaterialet analyserades med hjälp av en tematisk analys där vi fann teman som hjälper oss förklara hur konsumenter resonerar kring sin klädkonsumtion. Den teoretiska utgångspunkten för denna studie grundar sig i självuppfattning för att se hur kläder används och hur hållbarhet förhåller sig. Vi kom fram till att vid klädkonsumtion så förskjuts ansvaret för en hållbar konsumtion och istället är det viktigare att konsumtionen är kongruerande med individens självuppfattning och sociala kontext. / This study aims to contribute with knowledge on how people rationalize, de-prioritize andproject responsibility within sustainable consumption. This was achieved through semistructuredinterviews with a total of 7 respondents. The collected material was later analysedusing thematic analysis which helped us explain how consumers reason about their ownapparel consumption. Our theoretical approach bounds in self-concept to see how consumersspeak about their apparel consumption and how sustainability is reflected through it. Weconclude in this paper that consumers project responsibility for sustainable consumption andit is more essential to consume congruently to the individuals self-concept and accordinglywith the social context that people finds themselves in. This paper is written in Swedish.

The Dissertation is providing concise insight into the history of fashion industry, its global evolution and remarkable thresholds leading us into the way we can see it nowadays. Consequent focus is around today's trend of fast fashion being seen as the synonym for affordable and low-cost apparel. Vigorous supply chain analysis delivers valid arguments about negative social and environmental impact on our society as a result of recent fashion trends. Considering all above highlighted issues along with increasingly important sustainability, the theses is trying to outline a future prospect of the industry.

Esta investigación está enfocada en entender la percepción de los personajes más recurrentes dentro de la atmósfera local de la moda sostenible (diseñadores, entidades y creadores de contenido) con respecto a la producción de contenidos sobre este tema en los medios digitales peruanos desde el inicio del 2020. Para esto, se consideraron los conceptos de la moda como un fenómeno social dentro de un grupo específico en el que interactúa el emisor y el receptor, la adaptación del periodismo de modas hacia el mundo digital, qué dificultades periodismo de modas enfrenta de acuerdo al espacio geográfico en el que se desarrolla y la producción de información sobre moda sostenible en las plataformas virtuales. La metodología para realizar este análisis es cualitativa. / This research is focused on understanding the perception of the most recurrent characters in the local atmosphere of sustainable fashion (designers, entities and content creators) regarding the production of content on this subject in peruvian digital media from the beginning of 2020. For this, the concepts of fashion were considered as a social phenomenon within a specific group in which the sender and the receiver interact, the adaptation of fashion journalism to the digital world, what difficulties fashion journalism faces from according to the geographic space in which it is developed and the production of information on sustainable fashion on virtual platforms. The methodology to carry out this analysis is qualitative. / Trabajo de investigación

Es seguro que hoy en día las personas tienen en su clóset una prenda jean, pues es un elemento básico para armar un outfit y, se considera una prenda versátil que combina con cualquier otro tipo de prenda y se puede utilizar para diferentes estilos y ocasiones. No obstante, es posible que no se es muy consciente de la huella ambiental que estas prendas dejan al momento de ser fabricadas. Según diversas fuentes, como Infobae (2019) y la Organización de las Naciones Unidas (ONU) (2019), se necesitan 2,900 litros de agua para elaborar una camiseta jean y 7,500 para un pantalón jean. A partir de esta problemática, sumado al ritmo de compra en la industria del fast fashion, la cual genera un impacto negativo en el medio ambiente, ya que, según el Diario La Sexta (2019), en los últimos 15 años, la industria textil genera el 8% de las emisiones de gases de efecto invernadero, nació el presente proyecto de investigación. Jeans 360 Perú consiste en ofrecer una solución innovadora al mercado peruano, en la cual se interiorice un nuevo concepto sobre el ciclo de vida de las prendas jeans, es decir, una forma de alargar la vida útil de los mismos. Este proyecto se ha desarrollado con aplicación a la realidad peruana, específicamente a la población ubicada en la ciudad de Lima Metropolitana. Asimismo, el modelo de negocio del proyecto se sustenta en reducir el impacto ambiental de la industria de la moda, basándose en el concepto de economía circular, el cual está enfocado en el cuidado y protección del medio ambiente a través de la reducción de desechos y el aprovechamiento de los recursos. Este proyecto ofrece una plataforma digital web y redes sociales para la comercialización de prendas jeans de segunda mano de diversas marcas, con modelos originales de fábrica y prendas jeans acondicionadas a un diseño acorde a las últimas tendencias internacionales de la moda denim. Adicional a ello, teniendo en cuenta la situación actual del mercado de prendas de segunda mano en el Perú, se aplicarán diferentes estrategias de ingreso al mercado con una propuesta transparente con respecto a los protocolos de sanidad y bioseguridad. / It is certain that nowadays people have a jean garment in their closet, as it is a basic element to put together an outfit and, it is considered a versatile garment that combines with any other type of garment and can be used for different styles and occasions. However, it is possible that you are not very aware of the environmental footprint that these garments leave when they are manufactured. According to various sources, such as Infobae (2019) and the United Nations (UN) (2019), 2,900 liters of water are needed to make a jean shirt and 7,500 for a jean pants. From this problem, added to the rate of purchase in the fast fashion industry, which generates a negative impact on the environment, since, according to La Sexta newspaper (2019), in the last 15 years, the textile industry generates 8% of greenhouse gas emissions, this research project was born. Jeans 360 Peru consists of offering an innovative solution to the Peruvian market, in which a new concept is internalized about the life cycle of jeans garments, that is, a way to extend their useful life. This project has been developed with application to the Peruvian reality, specifically to the population located in the city of Metropolitan Lima. Likewise, the business model of the project is based on reducing the environmental impact of the fashion industry, based on the concept of circular economy, which is focused on the care and protection of the environment through the reduction of waste and the use of resources. This project offers a digital web platform and social networks for the commercialization of second-hand jeans garments from various brands, with original factory models and jeans garments conditioned to a design according to the latest international trends in denim fashion. In addition to this, considering the current situation of the second-hand garment market in Peru, different strategies for entering the market will be applied with a transparent proposal with respect to health and biosafety protocols. / Trabajo de investigación

Accounted as the second largest cause of pollution, the fashion industry is only behind the petroleum industry worldwide. In recent decades, the supply chains of retail companies have become international with the growth of a global economy. As a result, fashion companies have increasingly shifted their supply chains into developing countries with cheaper labour. The shift is made possible due to their lower environmental awareness and looser environmental regulatory systems. This dominant business model within the clothing industry has gained enormous traction within recent decades and has been coined with the term fast fashion. However, due to the negative economic, social and environmental impact, mainly in developing countries, fast fashion companies increasingly focus on sustainability efforts within their supply chains to ensure the same quality and standards in production and working conditions. The thesis seeks to investigate what efforts have to be done within the supply chains of fast fashion companies in order to become more sustainable. A case study is conducted with a fashion retailer based in Sweden, referred to as Company X, through several semi-structured interviews in order to explore how Company X manages to keep a competitive advantage through its extensive sustainability efforts within its supply chain. The findings and analysis of this study show that there are numerous supply chain strategies for improvements, including sustainable manufacturing, eco-material preparations, green distribution, ethical consumers and reshoring vs. offshoring strategies. The major competitive advantages that are achieved according to the company itself come from; a shift from labour-intensive suppliers to capital-intensive, strong brand image, credibility, increase in ethical consumers, partnerships, transparency and traceability. Conclusively, purchasing from capital-intensive suppliers rather than labour-intensive suppliers will yield new innovative solutions for technologically advanced eco-material as well as efficiency in the production process. Furthermore, it was found that for a reshoring strategy to become the norm in the near future, extensive work and research is required. Lastly, as consumers' behaviour shifts towards a more ethical mindset, traditional fast fashion companies will continue to lose an important customer segment if no changes are made. / Modebranschen är den näst största orsaken till föroreningar världen över bakom oljeindustrin. Under de senaste decennierna har försörjningskedjor för detaljhandelsföretag blivit internationella med tillväxten av en global ekonomi. Som ett resultat har modeföretag i allt högre grad flyttat sina försörjningskedjor till utvecklingsländer med billigare arbetskraft. Förändringen möjliggörs på grund av deras lägre miljömedvetenhet och lösare miljörätt. Denna dominerande affärsmodell har fått ett enormt fäste inom klädindustrin under de senaste decennierna och har myntats med termen fast fashion. Men på grund av den negativa ekonomiska, sociala och miljömässiga påverkan, främst i utvecklingsländer, fokuserar snabbmodeföretag alltmer på hållbarhetsinsatser inom sina försörjningskedjor. Detta görs för att säkerställa samma kvalitet och standarder i produktions- och arbetsförhållanden. Arbetet har i syfte att undersöka vilka insatser som måste göras inom fast fashion-industrins försörjningskedjor för att bli mer hållbara. En fallstudie genomförs med ett modeföretag baserad i Sverige, kallad Company X, genom flera semistrukturerade intervjuer för att utforska hur de lyckas behålla konkurrensfördelar genom sitt omfattande hållbarhetsarbete inom sin försörjningskedja. Resultaten och analyserna av denna studie visar att det finns många strategier för förbättringar inom försörjningskedjan, inklusive hållbar tillverkning, miljövänliga preparat, grön distribution, etiska konsumenter och reshoring kontra offshoring-strategier. De stora konkurrensfördelarna som uppnås enligt företaget själva kommer från; en övergång från arbetsintensiva leverantörer till kapitalintensiva, stark varumärkesimage, trovärdighet, ökade etiska konsumenter, partnerskap, transparens och spårbarhet. Avslutningsvis så kommer köp från kapitalintensiva leverantörer, snarare än arbetskraftsintensiva leverantörer, leda till nya innovativa lösningar för tekniskt avancerade miljömaterial såväl som effektiviseringar i produktionsprocessen. Dessutom konstateras det att för att en reshoring-strategi ska bli normen inom en snar framtid krävs omfattande arbete och forskning. När konsumenternas beteende skiftar mot en mer etisk inställning, kommer traditionella fast fashion-företag att fortsätta att förlora ett viktigt kundsegment om inga förändringar görs.