Water waves generated by wind and ships; ebb tidal currents; water level fluctuations; and dredging impact sediment transport in shallow water of the lower Columbia River. Observations were made over a one-year period after sand dredged from the navigation channel was placed at three study sites in the Puget Island region, 46°15'N 123°25'W, Oregon and Washington. Sediment composition is fine to medium grained, low density dacitic volcanics with small percentages of pumice, heavy minerals, and basalt.

Beach sand acts as a buffer to wave energy, protecting the shoreline from erosion. Estimates of the quantity and distribution of beach sand in littoral cells of the PNW are critical to the understanding and prediction of shoreline erosion or accretion. This study was initiated in order to: 1) document the distribution of sand in littoral cells of the Pacific Northwest; 2) determine the factors which have brought about these present distributions; and 3) address the relationship of beach sand distribution to shoreline stability.

Long Key, on the central western coast of Florida, has been nourished repeatedly since 1975. Following nourishment, the beach has rapidly eroded. This study documents rates, processes, and mechanisms for the rapid erosion. To better understand the beach performance, it is crucial to quantify the background erosion rate when artificial beach fill is at its minimum. This year long study from February 2003 through March of 2004 provides a detailed examination of the performance of a natural beach experiencing intense erosion. The primary objective is to analyze the performance of Long Key through detailed investigation of shoreline and beach-volume changes at a time when the effects of the most recent nourishment in the summer of 2000 are a minimal influence, and the natural performance of the beach, i.e, the background erosion/accretion rate, can be determined. This study also examines, in detail, shore-parallel and cross-shore sediment properties in an attempt to link erosional, stable and accretional areas to sediment grain-size composition. Finally seasonal variations of the nearshore morphology and sediment properties of the Long Key beach were determined to identify the significance of seasonal variations on long-shore and cross-shore sediment transport. This study was conducted using monthly beach profile data and monthly sediment samples. Net longshore sediment transport at the eroding north end (Upham Beach) is to the south at a rate of 34,000 cubic meters per year. Eighty-five percent of this sediment is deposited on the central and southern portions of the island, mainly in the central portion. This is an elevated sediment transport rate as compared to the generally accepted rate of 15,000 to 20,000 cubic meters per year, which explains the rapid erosion at the north end. The greatest volume loss occurs in the winter months, ostensibly due to the passage of winter storms. There is also no significant cross-shore sediment transport in the northern portion of Long Key, beach profile results demonstrate a stable shape. However, there is slight cross-shore sediment transport in the central and southern regions of the island. At location LK 3 in the north end of the island lost 35 meters of shoreline above NGVD and 25 meters below NGVD. At location LK 11 in the south end there was a gain of 3 meters above NGVD and 15 meters below NGVD. Based on detailed sediment analysis, it is not possible to determine distinctive and persistent temporal or spatial sediment characteristics, nor are the sediment properties of Long Key indicative of longshore sediment transport.

Thesis (M.S.)--University of North Carolina at Wilmington, 2004. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves : [92]-97).

A spatial -temporal analysis was made by using cartographic material and Geographic Information Systems techniques. Here we compared the setting of the littoral line of a sector minimally affected by human occupation (Puémape–Puerto Chicama) with other sectors with moderate occupation (La Chira–Lurín) to strongly modified (Salaverry–Las Delicias and the Miraflores Bay). During the period 1961-2006 in the sector Puémape – Puerto Chicama, we identified the predominance of the advance or stability of the coastal line. The sector La Chira – Lurín presented a setting similar, with the tendency to stability and, the sectors strongly intervened showed a setting openly erosive. To the contrary as expected, the rising of sea level due to global warming doesn’t seem to be the principal cause of beach erosion in Perú. This is mainly due to the strong human intervention in the coast because at undisturbed sectors the predominance is stability or advance of the littoral line. / Mediante el empleo de material cartográfico y sistema de información geográfica (SIG), se realizó un análisis espacio-temporal, donde se comparó el comportamiento de la línea de litoral de un sector costero mínimamente afectado por la ocupación humana (Puémape–Puerto Chicama) con otros sectores costeros con ocupación moderada (La Chira–Lurín) a fuertemente modificada (Salaverry–Las Delicias y la bahía de Miraflores). Durante el período comprendido entre 1961 y 2006 para el sector Puémape–Puerto Chicama, se identificó el predominio del avance o estabilidad de la línea de costa. El sector La Chira–Lurín presentó un comportamiento similar, con tendencia a la estabilidad y los sectores fuertemente intervenidos presentaron un comportamiento netamente erosivo. Al contrario de lo esperado, la elevación del nivel del mar debido el calentamiento global no parece ser la causa principal de la erosión de playas en el Perú. Esta se debe principalmente a la fuerte intervención en costa ya que en sectores no alterados el predominio es de estabilidad o avance de la línea de litoral.

The St Francis Bay beach has experienced chronic erosion over the past three decades. This erosion can largely be attributed to the stabilisation of a large coastal dunefield which contributed +/- 80 percent of the sand supply to St Francis Bay. Stabilisation began in 1975 initially using plant cuttings and followed by the development of the Santareme holiday suburb resulting in complete stabilisation by 1985. Effects were felt from the late 1970‟s and since then the beach has retreated at between 0.5 - 3 m.yr-1. Erosion has encroached on beachfront properties since the early 1990‟s, leading to the placement of 3-4 m high unsightly rock revetments along much of the beach. Where properly maintained these structures have proved successful in protecting the properties behind, however exacerbated erosion of areas in front and adjacent to these structures is evident. Currently no dry beach is present at high tide for most of the year, leading to a significant reduction in beach amenity value. Several technical studies to investigate remediation of this beach erosion problem have been conducted since the early 1990‟s. This study includes investigations into the processes and dynamics of the existing environment and evaluation of the effectiveness and impacts of several elements of a hybrid approach to coastal protection and amenity enhancement for St Francis Bay beach. This proposal incorporated: Multi-Purpose Reefs (MPR‟s) offshore, for coastal protection and amenity enhancement in terms of surfing; beach nourishment with sand from the Kromme Estuary and dune rehabilitation with appropriate native sand binding species. Extensive fieldwork and data collection were conducted, this included: a series of bathymetric surveys; diving surveys and a helicopter flight; sediment sampling; beach profiling and deployment of a wave/current meter. Analysis of these data provided a greater understanding of the existing environment and dynamics of St Francis Bay and provided reliable inputs for numerical modelling. Numerical and physical modelling was conducted to assess the existing processes and conduct MPR design testing. In addition calibrated hydrodynamic modelling of the Kromme Estuary was conducted in order to assess the impacts of sand extraction from the large sand banks within the mouth of the Kromme Estuary for use as beach nourishment. Comparison of bathymetric survey data collected by the author in 2005/06 with survey data collected by the South African Navy Hydrographic Office (SANHO) in 1952 suggest a major loss of sand from the bay, with a volume difference of some 8.8 X 106 m3 calculated. Greater losses were measured between 10-15 m water depths, with shallow areas of +/- 5 m water depth, remaining more stable. This can be attributed to the presence of shallow reef and rocky substrate through much of the bay at this depth range. Monthly RTK GPS survey data from September 2006 to September 2007 indicates a total loss of 40 000 m3 over this period with the greatest losses measured along the northern part of the beach. The greatest losses were measured after large long period waves from a southerly to south-easterly direction occurred in conjunction with equinox tides in mid March 2007. Sediment sampling at over 100 locations within the bay indicated a high percentage of reef (26 percent) and fairly consistent grain size in the fine to medium size class throughout much of the beach, bay and large sand bank within the estuary. While the majority of the South African Coast is exposed to the predominant south westerly winds and waves, St Francis Bay‟s orientation means that waves from a south easterly to easterly direction dominate. The results of the detailed numerical modelling of the hydrodynamics agree with previous calculations and modelling results which concluded that strong unidirectional longshore currents occur along the headland due to the oblique angle of wave incidence and the close to parallel angle of wave incidence along the beach leads to weak longshore currents of variable direction. Erosion along St Francis Bay beach is a result of cross-shore erosion due to large waves from a southerly to easterly direction. Detached breakwaters are the most effective form of coastal protection in these environments and MPR‟s offer additional benefits over traditional breakwater structures. Results of empirical calculations and numerical modelling indicate that the MPR‟s will provide effective coastal protection through the processes of wave dissipation, wave rotation, salient formation and alteration of nearshore circulation. Physical modelling results allowed the MPR design to be assessed and refined in terms of surfing amenity enhancement and construction constraints. In addition numerical modelling results indicate that impacts due to the extraction of up to 600 000 m3 of sand from the lower Kromme Estuary result in highly localised velocity reduction, mainly limited to the extraction areas. The calculated rate of sediment influx into the lower Kromme Estuary indicates that limited extraction, in the order of 20 000 – 40 000 m3 per year, should be sustainable in the long term. Sedimentation of the lower estuary over recent years has had negative recreational and ecological impacts, through reduced navigability and water exchange respectively. Therefore both the estuary and beach systems prove to benefit from this approach. Although not investigated in detail as part of this study, evidence from numerous projects worldwide indicates that foredunes help to trap wind-blown sand on the beach and form a buffer to storm erosion, therefore dune rehabilitation with native sand-binding plant species was recommended as the third element of the proposed remediation of St Francis Bay beach.

The Nature Conservancy of Texas (TNC) is concerned with the amount of shoreline erosion taking place at its Mad Island Marsh Preserve (MIMP), located in Matagorda Bay, Texas. The MIMP is a 7,100 acre nature preserve that borders the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway and is eroded by waves generated by barge traffic. TNC is concerned that erosion will shorten Mad Island Bayou which may increase the salinity of Mad Island Lake; with detrimental effects on lake and marsh habitats. This study uses GPS technology to map the current shoreline and GIS to determine ten year erosion rates (1995 - 2005). Results show that erosion is occurring at various rates along the shoreline as well as along the oxbow bend in Mad Island Bayou.

京都大学 / 0048 / 新制・課程博士 / 博士(工学) / 甲第22415号 / 工博第4676号 / 新制||工||1730(附属図書館) / 京都大学大学院工学研究科社会基盤工学専攻 / (主査)教授 平石 哲也, 准教授 馬場 康之, 教授 森 信人 / 学位規則第4条第1項該当 / Doctor of Philosophy (Engineering) / Kyoto University / DFAM

The fast growth of the urban population affects city life by degrading natural and social resources. Urban developments modify resources such as forest, land, and water, but also modify the intimate relationship of people with the landscape. Many times, the damage of those resources is irreversible, and provokes dramatic changes in the natural landscape and the uniqueness of the place is missing. Despite the intense discussion that landscape architects and scientists worldwide hold about social and environmental aspects in urban environments, many questions about how to support natural and cultural landscapes, or why to keep them are not answered in the existing waterfronts and re-developments at the water's edge. For this reason, the recovering of urban waterfronts is an opportunity to promote ecologically healthy environments, address sense of place, support human gatherings, and encourage economic revitalization. This thesis and its research analyzes the components of the natural regional landscape in recovering waterfronts in order to avoid the loss of the uniqueness of a place. A section of beachfront in St. Augustine Beach, Florida that has suffered beach erosion and development pressures was chosen for the study. The result is an alternative proposal to costly dredging and beach reclamation that includes a series of tools, interventions, and landscape modifications of this threatened site. This proposal aims to return the site to a balanced and friendly landscape. Waterfronts in cities are an opportunity to reconnect communities with their cultural and geographic landscape. / Master of Landscape Architecture

The SUPERTANK dataset is analyzed to examine the upper limit of beach change in response to elevated water level induced by wave runup. Thirty SUPERTANK runs are investigated, including both erosional and accretionary wave conditions under random and monochromatic waves. Two experiments, one under a spilling and one under a plunging breaker-type, from the Large-Scale Sediment Transport Facility (LSTF) are also analyzed. The upper limit of beach change approximately equals the maximum vertical excursion of swash runup. Exceptions to this direct relationship are those with beach or dune scarps when gravity-driven changes, i.e., avalanching, become significant. The vertical extent of wave runup, Rmax, above mean water level on a beach without a scarp is found to approximately equal the significant breaking wave height, Hbs. Therefore, a simple formula Rmax = Hbs is proposed. The linear relationship between maximum runup and breaking wave height is supported by a conceptual derivation. This predictive formula reproduced the measured runup from a large-scale 3-dimensional movable bed physical model. Beach and dune scarps substantially limit the uprush of swash motion, resulting in a much reduced maximum runup. Predictions of wave runup are not improved by including a slope-dependent surf-similarity parameter. The limit of wave runup is substantially less for monochromatic waves than for random waves, attributed to absence of low-frequency motion for monochromatic waves.