A exposição ao sol traz benefícios à saúde, no entanto, o excesso pode ocasionar danos cutâneos agudos e crônicos, dentre os quais se destacam as neoplasias. A fotoproteção é um método para a prevenção dos efeitos danosos da radiação ultravioleta (UV) e a biodiversidade Brasileira é campo fértil para as pesquisas nesta área. Dessa forma, os objetivos da presente pesquisa envolveram o desenvolvimento de formulações fotoprotetoras bioativas contendo rutina ou quercetina (compostos bioativos) e filtros solares físicos (dióxido de titânio e óxido de zinco); a caracterização das formulações por meio de ensaios físico (viscosidade aparente) e físico-químico (valor de pH); a determinação da eficácia fotoprotetora estimada por espectrofotometria de refletância difusa com esfera de integração; e a avaliação da estabilidade das preparações por meio do Teste de Estabilidade Normal (TEN). Na etapa do Desenvolvimento, a preparação composta por Dermabase® vegetal (10,0% p/p); sistema umectante (8,0% p/p); sistema emoliente (6,0% p/p); sistema quelante/antioxidante (0,6% p/p); sistema conservante (1,0% p/p); e água destilada recém destilada (74,4% p/p), foi selecionada como a formulação-base. As preparações contendo os compostos bioativos e ativos, isolados ou em associações, possuíram valores de pH biocompatíveis com o da pele, abrangendo o intervalo de 4,28 (5,0% p/p de rutina) a 7,58 (5,0% p/p de dióxido de titânio); aspecto de creme com intervalo de viscosidade aparente entre 12400 (5,0% p/p de óxido de zinco + 5,0% p/p de dióxido de titânio + 2,5% p/p de quercetina) e 31900 cP (5,0% p/p de óxido de zinco + 5,0% p/p de dióxido de titânio + 5,0% p/p de rutina); eficácia fotoprotetora estimada na faixa de fator de proteção solar (FPS) de 2,1 (2,5% p/p de quercetina) a 45,3 (5,0% p/p de óxido de zinco + 5,0% p/p de dióxido de titânio + 5,0% p/p de quercetina); e amplo espectro de proteção com valor mínimo de comprimento de onda crítico igual a 377 nm (5,0% p/p de óxido de zinco). Por meio do TEN, as preparações contendo os compostos bioativos e ativos isolados ou a associação dos filtros solares físicos se mantiveram estáveis para os parâmetros de aspecto, FPS estimado, comprimento de onda crítico, valor de pH e viscosidade aparente, nas condições de armazenamento de 22,0 ± 2,0 °C; 5,0 ± 2,0 °C - exceto para a viscosidade aparente - e 40,0 ± 2,0 °C (120 dias). As associações dos filtros físicos com os compostos bioativos se apresentaram instáveis. Apesar das respostas favoráveis que os flavonoides apreciaram, sugerirem-se que novas pesquisas poderiam ser conduzidas com a finalidade de contornar tais problemas, inclusive, realizando a comprovação da eficácia antissolar in vivo das preparações de melhor desempenho. / Exposition to sunlight promotes health benefits, however, its excess may cause acute and chronic cutaneous damages, including neoplasias. Photoprotection is a preventive approach against ultraviolet (UV) radiation deleterious effects and Brazilian biodiversity is an interesting field to the progress of researches in this science segment. The objectives of this research were the development of bioactive sunscreens containing rutin or quercetin (bioactive compounds) and inorganic UV filters (titanium dioxide and zinc oxide); the preparations\' physical (apparent viscosity) and physicochemical (pH value) characterization; the in vitro evaluation of the formulations\' photoprotective efficacy by diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry equipped with integrated sphere; and the sunscreens\' stability analysis by Normal Stability Testing (NST). The vehicle was developed with the following components: Dermabase® vegetal (10.0% w/w); humectant system (8.0% w/w); emollient system (6.0% w/w); antioxidant/chelating system (0.6% w/w); preservatives (1.0% w/w); and distilled water/aqua (74.4% w/w). Formulations containing the bioactive and the UV filters, isolated or in association, were skin biocompatible with interval of pH values from 4.28 (rutin 5.0% w/w) to 7.58 (titanium dioxide 5.0% w/w); apparent viscosity values of 12400 (zinc oxide 5.0% w/w + titanium dioxide 5.0% w/w + quercetin 2.5% w/w) to 31900 cP (zinc oxide 5.0% w/w + titanium dioxide 5.0% w/w + rutin 5.0% w/w); in vitro photoprotection activity by sun protection factor (SPF) ranging from 2.1 (quercetin 2.5% w/w) to 45.3 (zinc oxide 5.0% w/w + titanium dioxide 5.0% w/w + quercetin 5.0% w/w); and broad spectrum property with minimum critical wavelength of 377 nm (zinc oxide 5.0% w/w). By NST, sunscreens with isolated bioactive and active compounds or the UV filters\' association were considered stable during 120 days for the following parameters: aspect, in vitro SPF, critical wavelength, pH value and apparent viscosity when samples were stored at 22.0 ± 2.0 °C; 5.0 ± 2.0 °C (excluding apparent viscosity) and 40.0 ± 2.0 °C. Associations of UV filters with bioactive compounds were instable. Although the favorable results that flavonoids have achieved, it is suggested further researches aiming at to overcome the identified inconvenient, performing the in vivo SPF determination on best performance formulations to prove the estimated in vitro data.

Estudos têm relatado o potencial de aplicação cosmética de classes de proteínas que conferem resistência aos diferentes tipos de estresse sobre a pele. Nesse contexto, as proteínas de estresse - proteínas de choque térmico, metalotioneínas e sirtuínas - enquadram-se entre as proteínas de grande potencial no combate ao fotoenvelhecimento. Diversos extratos vegetais tem mostrado potencial de induzir uma ou mais proteínas de estresse. Dessa forma, o objetivo do trabalho foi avaliar os efeitos in vitro da aplicação isolada dos extratos de Anadenanthera colubrina (Angico branco), Rhodiola rosea (Rodiola), Pfaffia paniculata (Pfaffia), sobre a expressão gênica das proteínas do choque térmico (Heat shock proteins, HSP32 e HSP72), metalotioneína (MT-I) e da sirtuína isoforma SIRT1, em condição basal e mediante exposição aguda das culturas celulares à radiação UV. Como resultados de maior relevância o extrato de Anadenanthera colubrina foi capaz de modular positivamente as expressões gênicas de HSP72, SIRT-1 e MT-I, em fibroblastos sob condição basal. Já o extrato de Pfaffia paniculata foi capaz de elevar a expressão gênica de SIRT-1, em fibroblastos irradiados por UVA após incubação com o extrato vegetal e sob condição basal, além de induzir MT-I em culturas não irradiadas. Por fim, o extrato de Rhodiola rosea elevou as expressões de HSP32 e MT-I, em fibroblastos sob condição basal. Devido à capacidade indutora das proteínas de estresse pelos extratos vegetais avaliados, sugere-se que os mesmos apresentam potencial para utilização em produtos cosméticos, especialmente, com finalidade antienvelhecimento. / Studies have reported the potential for cosmetic application of proteins classes that confer resistance to different types of stress on the skin. In this context, stress proteins - heat shock proteins, metallothioneins and sirtuins - fall between the proteins of great potential in the fight against photoaging. Several plant extracts have been shown potential to induce one or more stress proteins. Thus, the objective of this study was to evaluate the in vitro effects from the isolated application of the extracts Anadenanthera colubrina (Angico-branco), Rhodiola rosea (Rodiola), Pfaffia paniculata (Fáfia) on the gene expression of heat shock proteins, HSP32 and HSP72, metallothionein (MT-I) and the sirtuin, isoform SIRT1, in basal conditions and upon acute exposure of cell cultures to UV radiation. As most relevant results, Anadenanthera colubrina extract was able to positively modulate the gene expression of HSP72, SIRT-1 and MT-I in fibroblasts under basal conditions. The Pfaffia paniculata extract was able to increase the gene expression of SIRT-1 in fibroblasts irradiated by UV after incubation with plant extract and in basal conditions, in addition to induce MT-I in non-irradiated cultures. Finally, the extract of Rhodiola rosea increased HSP32 and MT-I gene expressions in fibroblasts under basal conditions. Considering the plant extracts ability to induce stress proteins, it is suggested that they have potential for use in cosmetic products, especially, for anti-aging purposes.

Estudos têm relatado o potencial de aplicação cosmética de classes de proteínas que conferem resistência aos diferentes tipos de estresse sobre a pele. Nesse contexto, as proteínas de estresse - proteínas de choque térmico, metalotioneínas e sirtuínas - enquadram-se entre as proteínas de grande potencial no combate ao fotoenvelhecimento. Diversos extratos vegetais tem mostrado potencial de induzir uma ou mais proteínas de estresse. Dessa forma, o objetivo do trabalho foi avaliar os efeitos in vitro da aplicação isolada dos extratos de Anadenanthera colubrina (Angico branco), Rhodiola rosea (Rodiola), Pfaffia paniculata (Pfaffia), sobre a expressão gênica das proteínas do choque térmico (Heat shock proteins, HSP32 e HSP72), metalotioneína (MT-I) e da sirtuína isoforma SIRT1, em condição basal e mediante exposição aguda das culturas celulares à radiação UV. Como resultados de maior relevância o extrato de Anadenanthera colubrina foi capaz de modular positivamente as expressões gênicas de HSP72, SIRT-1 e MT-I, em fibroblastos sob condição basal. Já o extrato de Pfaffia paniculata foi capaz de elevar a expressão gênica de SIRT-1, em fibroblastos irradiados por UVA após incubação com o extrato vegetal e sob condição basal, além de induzir MT-I em culturas não irradiadas. Por fim, o extrato de Rhodiola rosea elevou as expressões de HSP32 e MT-I, em fibroblastos sob condição basal. Devido à capacidade indutora das proteínas de estresse pelos extratos vegetais avaliados, sugere-se que os mesmos apresentam potencial para utilização em produtos cosméticos, especialmente, com finalidade antienvelhecimento. / Studies have reported the potential for cosmetic application of proteins classes that confer resistance to different types of stress on the skin. In this context, stress proteins - heat shock proteins, metallothioneins and sirtuins - fall between the proteins of great potential in the fight against photoaging. Several plant extracts have been shown potential to induce one or more stress proteins. Thus, the objective of this study was to evaluate the in vitro effects from the isolated application of the extracts Anadenanthera colubrina (Angico-branco), Rhodiola rosea (Rodiola), Pfaffia paniculata (Fáfia) on the gene expression of heat shock proteins, HSP32 and HSP72, metallothionein (MT-I) and the sirtuin, isoform SIRT1, in basal conditions and upon acute exposure of cell cultures to UV radiation. As most relevant results, Anadenanthera colubrina extract was able to positively modulate the gene expression of HSP72, SIRT-1 and MT-I in fibroblasts under basal conditions. The Pfaffia paniculata extract was able to increase the gene expression of SIRT-1 in fibroblasts irradiated by UV after incubation with plant extract and in basal conditions, in addition to induce MT-I in non-irradiated cultures. Finally, the extract of Rhodiola rosea increased HSP32 and MT-I gene expressions in fibroblasts under basal conditions. Considering the plant extracts ability to induce stress proteins, it is suggested that they have potential for use in cosmetic products, especially, for anti-aging purposes.

A exposição ao sol traz benefícios à saúde, no entanto, o excesso pode ocasionar danos cutâneos agudos e crônicos, dentre os quais se destacam as neoplasias. A fotoproteção é um método para a prevenção dos efeitos danosos da radiação ultravioleta (UV) e a biodiversidade Brasileira é campo fértil para as pesquisas nesta área. Dessa forma, os objetivos da presente pesquisa envolveram o desenvolvimento de formulações fotoprotetoras bioativas contendo rutina ou quercetina (compostos bioativos) e filtros solares físicos (dióxido de titânio e óxido de zinco); a caracterização das formulações por meio de ensaios físico (viscosidade aparente) e físico-químico (valor de pH); a determinação da eficácia fotoprotetora estimada por espectrofotometria de refletância difusa com esfera de integração; e a avaliação da estabilidade das preparações por meio do Teste de Estabilidade Normal (TEN). Na etapa do Desenvolvimento, a preparação composta por Dermabase® vegetal (10,0% p/p); sistema umectante (8,0% p/p); sistema emoliente (6,0% p/p); sistema quelante/antioxidante (0,6% p/p); sistema conservante (1,0% p/p); e água destilada recém destilada (74,4% p/p), foi selecionada como a formulação-base. As preparações contendo os compostos bioativos e ativos, isolados ou em associações, possuíram valores de pH biocompatíveis com o da pele, abrangendo o intervalo de 4,28 (5,0% p/p de rutina) a 7,58 (5,0% p/p de dióxido de titânio); aspecto de creme com intervalo de viscosidade aparente entre 12400 (5,0% p/p de óxido de zinco + 5,0% p/p de dióxido de titânio + 2,5% p/p de quercetina) e 31900 cP (5,0% p/p de óxido de zinco + 5,0% p/p de dióxido de titânio + 5,0% p/p de rutina); eficácia fotoprotetora estimada na faixa de fator de proteção solar (FPS) de 2,1 (2,5% p/p de quercetina) a 45,3 (5,0% p/p de óxido de zinco + 5,0% p/p de dióxido de titânio + 5,0% p/p de quercetina); e amplo espectro de proteção com valor mínimo de comprimento de onda crítico igual a 377 nm (5,0% p/p de óxido de zinco). Por meio do TEN, as preparações contendo os compostos bioativos e ativos isolados ou a associação dos filtros solares físicos se mantiveram estáveis para os parâmetros de aspecto, FPS estimado, comprimento de onda crítico, valor de pH e viscosidade aparente, nas condições de armazenamento de 22,0 ± 2,0 °C; 5,0 ± 2,0 °C - exceto para a viscosidade aparente - e 40,0 ± 2,0 °C (120 dias). As associações dos filtros físicos com os compostos bioativos se apresentaram instáveis. Apesar das respostas favoráveis que os flavonoides apreciaram, sugerirem-se que novas pesquisas poderiam ser conduzidas com a finalidade de contornar tais problemas, inclusive, realizando a comprovação da eficácia antissolar in vivo das preparações de melhor desempenho. / Exposition to sunlight promotes health benefits, however, its excess may cause acute and chronic cutaneous damages, including neoplasias. Photoprotection is a preventive approach against ultraviolet (UV) radiation deleterious effects and Brazilian biodiversity is an interesting field to the progress of researches in this science segment. The objectives of this research were the development of bioactive sunscreens containing rutin or quercetin (bioactive compounds) and inorganic UV filters (titanium dioxide and zinc oxide); the preparations\' physical (apparent viscosity) and physicochemical (pH value) characterization; the in vitro evaluation of the formulations\' photoprotective efficacy by diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry equipped with integrated sphere; and the sunscreens\' stability analysis by Normal Stability Testing (NST). The vehicle was developed with the following components: Dermabase® vegetal (10.0% w/w); humectant system (8.0% w/w); emollient system (6.0% w/w); antioxidant/chelating system (0.6% w/w); preservatives (1.0% w/w); and distilled water/aqua (74.4% w/w). Formulations containing the bioactive and the UV filters, isolated or in association, were skin biocompatible with interval of pH values from 4.28 (rutin 5.0% w/w) to 7.58 (titanium dioxide 5.0% w/w); apparent viscosity values of 12400 (zinc oxide 5.0% w/w + titanium dioxide 5.0% w/w + quercetin 2.5% w/w) to 31900 cP (zinc oxide 5.0% w/w + titanium dioxide 5.0% w/w + rutin 5.0% w/w); in vitro photoprotection activity by sun protection factor (SPF) ranging from 2.1 (quercetin 2.5% w/w) to 45.3 (zinc oxide 5.0% w/w + titanium dioxide 5.0% w/w + quercetin 5.0% w/w); and broad spectrum property with minimum critical wavelength of 377 nm (zinc oxide 5.0% w/w). By NST, sunscreens with isolated bioactive and active compounds or the UV filters\' association were considered stable during 120 days for the following parameters: aspect, in vitro SPF, critical wavelength, pH value and apparent viscosity when samples were stored at 22.0 ± 2.0 °C; 5.0 ± 2.0 °C (excluding apparent viscosity) and 40.0 ± 2.0 °C. Associations of UV filters with bioactive compounds were instable. Although the favorable results that flavonoids have achieved, it is suggested further researches aiming at to overcome the identified inconvenient, performing the in vivo SPF determination on best performance formulations to prove the estimated in vitro data.

Problem: Research shows that it is crucial to acknowledge the information search step to understand consumer decision-making. Moreover, consumers‟ buying behavior is affected by their brand awareness. A problem is however that there exist a gap in previous research on understanding the consumers‟ actual behavior and why they choose certain platforms for their information gathering. Purpose: The purpose of the thesis is to get an understanding of consumers‟ information gathering process about cosmetic products and in turn to what extent that can create brand- awareness and attitudes. The thesis aims at filling the gap of truly understanding consumers inter-action in media and their behavior. The target audience to be stud-ied is young women, age 18-26, in the cosmetic industry. The inten-tion is to take an exploratory research view and to understand how this group of customers behave and also to describe why that is the reason. Methodology: To meet the purpose of the thesis, a qualitative research design was chosen since it allows the participants to express their opinions, re-flections and feelings as well as truly understanding the target in the way it enables deeper discussions. Three focus groups were con-ducted with young female consumers, and one in-depth interview was held with the partner company The Body Shop. The data was color-coded and presented separately in the result section, so that every participant‟s opinion was visible, before combining the results with theoretical reasoning in the analysis section. Conclusion: This study shows that young female consumers spend most of their information search on Instagram and Youtube since it is quick, fun and give inspiration, but they also value recommendations from friends. On all platforms they highly value a feeling of personal rela-tionships. Regarding brand- awareness and attitudes, it was found that brands are for the most part very important for the young fe-male consumers and they learn about brands both in their infor-mation search online and offline when talking to friends or visiting stores.

The theoretical part of the thesis is focused on the basic description of the physiology of the skin, human microbiome and a brief summary of where individual microorganisms occur. Furthermore, there is a list of analytical and microbiological methods that are used in this thesis. In the beginning, the practical part is focused on determination of antimicrobial effects of the chosen cosmetic products using microbial tests. Then, the inhibiton and microbial effect of the chosen cosmetic products on examined microorganisms has been measured using ELISA method. The second part of the thesis is focused on the isolation of bacterial DNA in quality that would be high enough to be used for amplification in PCR. There has been an optimalization of isolation of microbial DNA that was to be found on tested subjects’ skin. The presence of chosen microorganisms on skin before and after the usage of cosmetic products was measured using a PCR method. PCR products were then detected using gel electrophoresis. From the gathered data it is clear that the number of observed microorganisms has changed significantly after the application of cosmetic products.

Hemp belongs among important plants with a long industrial tradition. However, its first use was originally for healing. In medicine, it is mainly applied thanks to the content of many biologically active substances, such as cannabinoids. This thesis is concerned with the use of hemp in acne preparations. The theory focuses mainly on the characterization of hemp and its active substances. The other chapters deals with cosmetic preparations and acne itself, and Propionibacterium acnes as well, which is involved. Within the experimental part, the extracts of two hemp varieties (Finola and Bialobrzeskie) were characterized in terms of antioxidant and cannabinoid presence. The cosmetic preparations with hemp extract content were prepared including a complete cleansing set for acne skin, concurrently commercial products of this sort were purchased. In cosmetic preparations and the extracts their inhibitory effect against Propionibacterium acnes was studied as well. Also Micrococcus luteus, Escherichia coli and Candida glabrata were tested. The results show that dried hemp flower extracts contain the greatest amount of active substances, so they have a higher antioxidant and antimicrobial effect. The presence of individual cannabinoids differed mainly depending on the variety. All hemp extracts had effect against gram-positive bacteria, in cosmetic preparations it was lower. Nevertheless hemp antibacterial effect has been proven.

Probiotics products are an integral part of the current market. Products containing probiotics cultures are also cosmetic products. The first part of the study focuses on testing of bacterial survival abilities in the environment of preservatives presented in cosmetic products. Collection strains of genus Lactobacillus were used for these tests. Another part of the study focuses on isolation of bacterial DNA from probiotic cosmetic products Ryor, Yoghurt of Bulgaria, FeminaMed and Lactovit Activit in PCR-ready quality. DNA was isolated by fenol extraction and with magnetic particles. Presence of bacteria was proved by genus and species specific PCRs Lactobacillus. Species specific PCR for identification of Lactobacillus pentosus was optimalized. Species identification was in accord with data declared by producers.

Date: 2021-06-02 Level: Bachelor Thesis in Business Administration, 15 hp Institution: School of Business, Society and Engineering, Mälardalen University Authors: Alkhayyat Abdulmoaz (97/01/01), Stita Ayham (93/06/18) Title: Consumer Behavior towards green cosmetic products Tutor: Michela Cozza Keywords: Green products, purchase intention, eco-awareness, green cosmetic products, consumer behavior Research question: What are the factors influencing consumer purchasing choices when choosing green cosmetic products over synthetic cosmetic products? Purpose: To study the consumer behavior towards green products by analyzing the attitudes of customers choosing to purchase organic cosmetics and to further investigate the factors that affect their purchasing behavior. Method: This research followed a quantitative approach with a deductive reasoning, done by conducting a survey to collect primary data and interpret the results in order to reach a reasonable conclusion. Conclusion: It was found that green cosmetic products are important in reaching the various needs of customers as consent remaining environmentally friendly and sustainable is concerned. There are possible factors that impact consumer behavior, such as the social influences and eco-awareness, causing a change in buying behavior and attitudes.

Purpose - The purpose of this thesis is to explain the impacts of attitude, subjective normsand perceived behavioral control on Swedish consumers' intentions to purchase greencosmetics.Methodology - This thesis utilizes a multiple regression analysis based on an onlineself-completion questionnaire with respondents inside the sampling frame of SwedishMillennials and generation z consumers.Results - This thesis provides an understanding that Attitude, Subjective Norm and Perceivedbehavioral control can positively impact green cosmetic purchase intention.Originality / value - Testing the model of TPB as previously applied in green cosmeticconsumption research, in a greener highly competitive growing market of Swedish personalcare products.