This thesis seeks to explain the development and implementation of a new model, methods and process of practice required for the rejuvenation of hand crafted woolfelted textile making customs and practices of the Anatolian region of Turkey, which mediates tradition in a contemporary context. In progressing the aims of the research project underpinning the thesis it was necessary to undertake both field work, learning the felt makers' practices, and to undertake empirical design-based product trials which provided insights into the culture and creative potential of the felt making activity thus facilitating the development of the new model of practice. Therefore the thesis examines not only the nature and context, both historical and contemporary, of felt makers and felt making practice in Anatolia but also presents ethnographic and theoretical discourse intended to argue and justify the approaches adopted in the development of the new model of practice and a verification process of its effectiveness. The thesis interrelates strands of changing contexts; research record and theory discourse and argues that the new model of practice enables sustainability and displays ethical responsibility appropriate to, and commensurate with, the felt making culture of Anatolia and its traditions. The thesis argues by demonstration that the perception of an object is determined by location and level of consciousness, which can be reflected upon and, through redesign involving aggregation of qualities and values, purposefully represent an object and recreate its lost aura's root from tradition, transposed into a new diversity of perceptual responses. The thesis concludes that mediatory actions implicit in the new model of practice need not adversely impact upon the traditional culture of the makers in terms of lifestyle choices, since reciprocal exchange is a local transaction, which proffers evolving tradition as cultural values to a diversity of external locations and levels of consciousness. This open-ended mediatory action of anonymous hybridisations will continue by the intervention of other designers through evolutionary integration to elevate the status of the culture object and its related craft activity.

Neaustinė medžiaga gali būti nauja vaisto forma, todėl yra svarbu rasti biofarmacinį tyrimą, kuris būtų tinkamas įvertinti vaistinių medžiagų atsipalaidavimą iš neaustinės medžiagos. Tyrimo tikslas buvo atlikti tirpimo testo modifikacijas siekiant jį pritaikyti nustatant vaistinių medžiagų atpalaidavimą iš neaustinės medžiagos. / Nonwoven fabric can be a new drug form, it is important to find a biopharmaceutical assay, which would be suitable to assess the drug release from nonwoven fabric. Main aim was to carry out the modifications of the dissolution test in order to adapt it to the process of medicinal substance release from nonwoven fabric.

Fabrics are unique materials which consist of various properties affecting their performance and end-uses. A computerized fabric property evaluation and analysis method plays a crucial role not only in textile industry but also in scientific research. An accurate analysis and measurement of fabric property provides a powerful tool for gauging product quality, assuring regulatory compliance and assessing the performance of textile materials. This thesis investigated the solutions for applying computerized methods to evaluate and intelligently interpret the texture and material properties of fabric in an inexpensive and efficient way. Firstly, a method which allows automatic recognition of basic weave pattern and precisely measuring the yarn count is proposed. The yarn crossed-areas are segmented by a spatial domain integral projection approach. Combining fuzzy c-means (FCM) and principal component analysis (PCA) on grey level co-occurrence matrix (GLCM) feature vectors extracted from the segments enables to classify detected segments into two clusters. Based on the analysis on texture orientation features, the yarn crossed-area states are automatically determined. An autocorrelation method is used to find weave repeats and correct detection errors. The method was validated by using computer simulated woven samples and real woven fabric images. The test samples have various yarn counts, appearance, and weave types. All weave patterns of tested fabric samples are successfully recognized and computed yarn counts are consistent to the manual counts. Secondly, we present a methodology for using the high resolution 3D surface data of fabric samples to measure surface roughness in a nondestructive and accurate way. A parameter FDFFT, which is the fractal dimension estimation from 2DFFT of 3D surface scan, is proposed as the indicator of surface roughness. The robustness of FDFFT, which consists of the rotation-invariance and scale-invariance, is validated on a number of computer simulated fractal Brownian images. Secondly, in order to evaluate the usefulness of FDFFT, a novel method of calculating standard roughness parameters from 3D surface scan is introduced. According to the test results, FDFFT has been demonstrated as a fast and reliable parameter for measuring the fabric roughness from 3D surface data. We attempt a neural network model using back propagation algorithm and FDFFT for predicting the standard roughness parameters. The proposed neural network model shows good performance experimentally. Finally, an intelligent approach for the interpretation of fabric objective measurements is proposed using supported vector machine (SVM) techniques. The human expert assessments of fabric samples are used during the training phase in order to adjust the general system into an applicable model. Since the target output of the system is clear, the uncertainty which lies in current subjective fabric evaluation does not affect the performance of proposed model. The support vector machine is one of the best solutions for handling high dimensional data classification. The complexity problem of the fabric property has been optimally dealt with. The generalization ability shown in SVM allows the user to separately implement and design the components. Sufficient cross-validations are performed and demonstrate the performance test of the system.

A mathematical model is developed to study the coupled heat and moisture transfer through a fabric system that consists of a single layer of fabric and an air gap. Properties of air and moisture are sensitive to temperature and hence are assumed to be functions of local temperature. Therefore the model is applicable to a broad range of boundary conditions. A numerical scheme is proposed to solve the distributions of temperature and moisture concentration throughout the layers, from which the thermal and evaporative resistances of the fabric system can be evaluated. Experiments are conducted for two particular fabrics using a sweating guarded hotplate, and the data show good agreement with the model predictions. Using this model, the effects of parameters in environmental conditions, air gap and material properties on the thermal and evaporative resistances are studied. This work provides fundamental basis for the optimization of garment fit and material properties to achieve good performance for the clothing system.

Hybrid systems with two or more fiber materials were used to combine the benefits of each fiber into a single composite product. Strength and toughness optimization of hybrid thin sheet composites has been studied extensively using combination of different fiber types with low and high modulus of elasticity. Hybrid reinforcement is more significant when the reinforcing structure is in fabric geometry. Fabric structure provides full control on the exact location of each yarn and its orientation in the composite during production, thus maximizes the reinforcing efficiency. A high-strength, high-modulus fiber primarily tends to increase the composite strength with nominal improvements in toughness. A low-modulus fiber expected to mainly improve toughness and ductility. Combination of two or more types of fiber can produce a composite that is both strong and tough as compared to a mono fiber composite. The purpose of the current work was to study hybrid warp knitted fabrics as reinforcement for cementbased composite, having AR (Alkali Resistance) glass and Polypropylene (PP) as the reinforcing yarns. The examined ratios between the two different yarns were 0:100, 25:75, 50:50, 75:25, 100:0 (glass: PP, by percentage). It was found that in the hybrid system, the fracture mechanism is a superposition of the mono systems, and the tensile behavior is a combination between the two materials.

The effect of fabric structure and yarn-to-yarn liquid migration on the overall liquid transport behavior of fabrics is investigated in this research. Sorption of liquid from an unlimited reservoir as well as sorption of a limited quantity of liquid by fabrics representing different structural parameters is studied in detail. Sorption of a limited quantity of liquid is studied by performing drop spreading experiments on fabrics. The spreading and wicking of micron sized drops which are deposited on textile fabrics during ink jet printing is also studied. How the fabric structure related variables influence the spreading of ink drops and how exactly spreading influences printing quality is investigated in this research. Results showed that the wicking in fabrics is determined by the wicking rates of the yarns, thread spacing and more importantly by the rate at which liquid migrates from longitudinal to transverse threads and again from transverse threads back to longitudinal threads. Drop spreading rates were also determined by fabric structure. In general, compact and thinner fabrics showed highest drop spreading rates. Drop spreading rates are primarily affected by the manner and the rate at which liquid migrates from yarn to yarn. Analysis of the results of ink jet printing of pigment ink on textile fabrics showed that excessive drop spreading and higher line widths were observed where continuous and narrow capillaries prevail on the surface of yarns. Yarn surface characteristics are more important than fabric construction parameters.

This thesis examines unsewn cloth pieces which once belonged to Victoria Wood and places them into their social and historical context. It uses the biography of Victoria Wood and her fabrics to argue for the importance of fabric collecting and dressmaking for New Zealand women from 1935 to 1955. It questions why ubiquitous fabrics bought for dress making are not represented in historical accounts of women, or in more general accounts of historical clothing and dress. Aspects of material culture theories are employed to analyse the material properties of the fabric pieces. These are situated within a wider domestic context to demonstrate that there were intrinsic qualities of fabric that influenced and were imagined by many women in this period. Oral histories and other documentary research add to the wider account and provide evidence of the way that dressmaking fabrics reflected the shifting notions of domesticity. The thesis suggests that fabrics bought for the creation of clothing can represent the past or a person. It also demonstrates how dressmaking fabrics simultaneously embody personal and social narratives which reflect the emotional and cultural values of a particular period. In this thesis I construct narratives which are based on the social and historical findings to highlight the importance of fabric collecting and dressmaking as an everyday domestic practice.

Made available in DSpace on 2014-06-11T19:23:29Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 0 Previous issue date: 2007-05-14Bitstream added on 2014-06-13T19:50:15Z : No. of bitstreams: 1 silva_gs_me_bauru.pdf: 675573 bytes, checksum: 50fa95588cf3abdf7e9af02e4024a2e2 (MD5) / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES) / Este trabalho visa à obtenção e caracterização de tecidos e compósitos condutores de eletricidade obtidos a partir de borracha natural e tecidos de algodão tratados com polianilina (PANI). Os tecidos condutores de eletricidade foram obtidos introduzindo-se amostras do tecido de algodão no meio reacional da síntese química convencional da PANI. Este tecido, tratado com PANI, também foi recoberto com borracha natural e submetido à prensagem a quente, formando o compósito polimérico denominado BN/TC. Esse recobrimento protege o tecido condutor de agentes externos que podem danificá-lo (por exemplo, a exposição em meios básicos) provocando uma diminuição na condutividade elétrica. Para a caracterização dos materiais e amostras foram utilizadas as técnicas de análise termogravimétrica (TG), calorimetria exploratória diferencial (DSC), espectroscopia no infravermelho (FTIR) e microscopia eletrônica de varredura (MEV), análise dinâmico-mecânica (DMA), ensaio mecânico (tensão x deformação) e medidas elétricas. Os tecidos de algodão tratados com PANI apresentaram boa condutividade elétrica... / This work aims to prepare and characterize electrically conductive cotton and composites obtained from natural rubber and cotton fabric treated with polyaniline (PANI). The conductive composite was produced introducing cotton fabric samples in the solution of the conventional PANI chamical synthesis. The fabric treated with PANI (CF), was also covered with natural rubber and submitted to a pressure under heating during a short time, forming a composite denominated as NR/CF. Rubber coating protects the conductive fabric from external agents such as an alkaline media impeding the electric conductivity of the fabric to decrease. The characterization of the samples was made using the following techniques: thermogravimetry (TG), differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), attenuated total reflection Fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy, scanning electronic microscopy (SEM), dynamic-mechanical analysis (DMA), mechanic test (stress x strain) and electric conduction measurements. The treated cotton fabric show a uniform deposition of the PANI and presents a good electric conductivity... (Complete abstract click electronic access below)

De par la grande diversité de tissus existants, tous avec des caractéristiques mécaniques différentes, il n’y a que peu d’études portant sur la découpe de tissus textiles.Cette thèse s’intéresse à la découpe de textile en multi-plis par l’action d’une lame oscillante dans un contexte industriel.Dans cette étude, une machine de découpe industrielle est équipée de différents capteurs afin de pouvoir mesurer l’influence des efforts de coupe sur la qualité des pièces découpées. En utilisant cet équipement, il a été possible de contrôler les efforts de coupe pendant toute la durée d’une coupe rectiligne.Enfin, un modèle physique de ces efforts est proposé en prenant en compte différents paramètres comme la géométrie de la lame, les propriétés du matériau découpé et les différents paramètres de coupe. / Due to the wide variety of fabrics, all with different mechanical characteristics, there are few studies dealing with the question of cutting fabrics.In this thesis, we model the multi-ply cutting process using a reciprocating knife in an industrial context.In this study, a textile cutting machine is instrumented with different sensors, to measure the influence of cutting forces on the quality of the resulting profiles. Using this equipment, cutting forces can be analyzed experimentally while the fabric is being cut along a straight line.Next, a model of the physical phenomena of these forces is proposed, taking different parameters into account such as the geometry of the knife, the properties of the material being cut and the parameters of the cut.

Orientador: Aldo Eloizo Job / Banca: José Alberto Giacometti / Banca: José Antonio Malmonge / Banca: Marystela Ferreira / O Programa de Pós-Graduação em Ciência e Tecnologia de Materiais, PosMat, tem caráter institucional e integra as atividades de pesquisa em materiais de diversos campi da Unesp / Resumo: Este trabalho visa à obtenção e caracterização de tecidos e compósitos condutores de eletricidade obtidos a partir de borracha natural e tecidos de algodão tratados com polianilina (PANI). Os tecidos condutores de eletricidade foram obtidos introduzindo-se amostras do tecido de algodão no meio reacional da síntese química convencional da PANI. Este tecido, tratado com PANI, também foi recoberto com borracha natural e submetido à prensagem a quente, formando o compósito polimérico denominado BN/TC. Esse recobrimento protege o tecido condutor de agentes externos que podem danificá-lo (por exemplo, a exposição em meios básicos) provocando uma diminuição na condutividade elétrica. Para a caracterização dos materiais e amostras foram utilizadas as técnicas de análise termogravimétrica (TG), calorimetria exploratória diferencial (DSC), espectroscopia no infravermelho (FTIR) e microscopia eletrônica de varredura (MEV), análise dinâmico-mecânica (DMA), ensaio mecânico (tensão x deformação) e medidas elétricas. Os tecidos de algodão tratados com PANI apresentaram boa condutividade elétrica... (Resumo completo, clicar acesso eletrônico abaixo) / Abstract: This work aims to prepare and characterize electrically conductive cotton and composites obtained from natural rubber and cotton fabric treated with polyaniline (PANI). The conductive composite was produced introducing cotton fabric samples in the solution of the conventional PANI chamical synthesis. The fabric treated with PANI (CF), was also covered with natural rubber and submitted to a pressure under heating during a short time, forming a composite denominated as NR/CF. Rubber coating protects the conductive fabric from external agents such as an alkaline media impeding the electric conductivity of the fabric to decrease. The characterization of the samples was made using the following techniques: thermogravimetry (TG), differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), attenuated total reflection Fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy, scanning electronic microscopy (SEM), dynamic-mechanical analysis (DMA), mechanic test (stress x strain) and electric conduction measurements. The treated cotton fabric show a uniform deposition of the PANI and presents a good electric conductivity... (Complete abstract click electronic access below) / Mestre