En el presente trabajo de investigación se conoce al movimiento feminista contemporáneo “Free the Nipple” y su vinculación en la moda peruana. Para su desarrollo se formula el siguiente objetivo general: Conocer cómo se manifiesta el movimiento “Free the Nipple” en la moda en Lima desde su origen 2012, hasta el 2020. Para ello, se investigó sobre el origen y la evolución del movimiento, además de analizar y explicar cómo se ve reflejado en la moda peruana. Asimismo, se definieron términos que comprenden al movimiento como: Free the Nipple, feminismo, desigualdad en redes sociales y ciberfeminismo. Así también, como el estudio histórico de dos de ellos: Free the Nipple y feminismo, esto contribuye a identificar históricamente las diferencias que persisten en la sociedad al tratarse de la libertad y derechos en hombres y mujeres. Respecto al desarrollo de antecedentes, solo se encontraron antecedentes internacionales, esto se debe al origen del movimiento en Estados Unidos, de esta manera el presente trabajo de investigación es uno de los primeros recursos nacionales enfocados en el movimiento “Free The Nipple” y la indumentaria de moda local. En cuanto a la metodología de investigación es cualitativa de tipo etnográfica, pues se enfoca en la realidad social empleándose técnicas de recolección de carácter inductivo y teorías. Así mismo, la población de estudio son los diseñadores peruanos de moda, curadores, modelos e influencers. Respecto a la muestra se segmentan y se toman solo a los diseñadores peruanos, curadores, modelos e influencers que se enfoquen en la conceptualización de movimientos sociales, es decir moda activista en busca de la reflexión en la sociedad. Finalmente se realiza recojo de información mediante entrevistas digitales, organizándolas por categorías según la profesión de estos. / In this research work, the contemporary feminist movement "Free the Nipple" and its manifestation in Peruvian fashion are known. For its development, the following general objective is formulated: To know how the “Free the Nipple” movement manifests itself in fashion in Lima from its origin, 2012, to 2020. For this, the origin and evolution of the movement was investigated. to analyze and explain how it is reflected in Peruvian fashion. Likewise, terms that comprise the movement were defined as: Free the Nipple, feminism, inequality in social networks and cyberfeminism. Also, like the historical study of two of them: Free the Nipple and feminism, this contributes to historically identify the differences that persist in society when it comes to freedom and rights in men and women. Regarding the development of antecedents, only international antecedents were found, this is due to the origin of the movement in the United States, in this way this research work is one of the first national resources focused on the “Free The Nipple” movement and clothing local fashion. Regarding the research methodology, it is qualitative and ethnographic, since it focuses on social reality and uses inductive collection techniques and theories. Likewise, the study population is Peruvian fashion designers, curators, models and influencers. Regarding the sample, only Peruvian designers, curators, models and influencers who focus on the conceptualization of social movements, that is, activist fashion in search of reflection in society, are segmented and taken. Finally, information is collected through digital interviews, organizing them by categories according to their profession / Trabajo de investigación

La presente investigación tiene como objetivo general determinar cuál es la influencia de la subcultura urbana de los skaters en la moda streetwear producida por la marca Perro Loco durante el periodo 2013-2019 en Lima. La problemática surgió al percibir que, la moda streetwear ha ganado notoriedad en el mercado internacional y en el mercado de lujo, así como también, la ciudad de Lima no es ajena a dicho fenómeno pues se ha registrado la presencia de esta moda, pero en menor escala. Al comenzar la investigación bibliográfica, se descubrió que el streetwear se originó al fusionar subculturas juveniles, entre ellas destaca la subcultura urbana de los skaters. A su vez, se ha observado que la identidad y forma de vestir de esta subcultura se ve reflejada en la indumentaria streetwear y viceversa. Por ello, la investigación bibliográfica buscará examinar y comprender las características de ambas variables, para luego complementar dicha información con la investigación cualitativa a través del estudio de caso de una marca representativa de esta moda que pueda explicar dicho fenómeno en el contexto peruano. / The present research has as general objective to determine what is the influence of the urban subculture of skaters in the streetwear fashion produced by the brand Perro Loco during the period 2013-2019 in Lima. The problem arose when perceiving that streetwear fashion has gained notoriety in the international market and in the luxury market, as well as, the city of Lima is not unaware of this phenomenon because the presence of this fashion has been recorded, but on a smaller scale. At the beginning of the literature research, it was discovered that streetwear originated by merging juvenile subcultures, among them the urban subculture of skaters. In turn, it has been observed that the identity and manner of dress of this subculture is reflected in the clothing streetwear and vice versa. Therefore, the bibliographic research will seek to examine and understand the characteristics of both variables, and then complement said information with qualitative research through the case study of a brand that can explain said phenomenon in the Peruvian context. / Trabajo de investigación

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The thesis bridges the gap between physical and digital print design in search of a hybrid state, reflecting our present time. With AI-assisted creativity in print development and features such as added volume to the print elements, the physical garments replicate the creation of a 3D object existing in computer software. Through innovative garment construction techniques and the development of photographic print composition, it redefines the relationship between print, form, and body. Driven by visually stimulating imagery and the desire to communicate physical sensation through concepts constructed via digital tools, the thesis proposes hybrid wearables existing in both the digital and physical states. The research examines an innovative symbiosis between the nostalgic past and the futuristic present with joyful expression in mind while simultaneously harmonizing the saturated voices of the current zeitgeist. The project contributes to the utilization of AI image-generating tools such as Dalle2 in the design practice and the role of maintaining human-centered design instead of replacing it. The results are presented in multitudes of different presentation formats from analog or digital ones in the forms of image stills and animation to phygital convergences between the virtual and the actual reality.

M. Tech. (Department of Visual Arts and Design: Fashion, Faculty of Human Sciences), Vaal University of Technology. / INTRODUCTION AND BACKGROUND The fashion trade is a global industry (Amankhwah, Badoe & Chichi 2014:144) that plays a major role in the socio-economic development of many countries (Sarpong, Howard & Osei-Ntiri 2011:98). A number of Asian countries, for example, have been known to thrive in the international textile and fashion trade, owing to their successful training programs in fashion and apparel design (Maiyo, Abong’o & Tuigon’g 2014:63). In South Africa (SA) fashion is also seen as an important industry, as it forms part of economic development programs (Dlodlo 2014:191) and aids in income generation for individuals, not only in major cities, but also in smaller towns and peri-urban areas. Thus, the statement can be made that the successful training of individuals through training programs (with regard to fashion-related skills) has a direct link to a thriving fashion industry and a direct impact on individuals, group and community income generation. Nonetheless, not all individuals within the fashion industry have acquired formal fashion training. Some may have obtained fashion-related skills (such as sewing, pattern making and fashion drawing) through family members, short courses, school or in-service work experience elsewhere. These skills, particularly fashion drawing and illustration (hereafter referred to as fashion drawing), are necessary visual communication tools with which the designer relays their ideas and designs to the client. Visual communication is a pictorial form of communication where visual symbols are incorporated in order to convey information (Liu 2015:41) and this process of visual communication enables both parties to be equally clear about the proposed design (Tatham & Seaman 2004:114; Calderin 2013:148). Thus, specifically in relation to the field of fashion, visual communication is used to communicate designs or ideas to individuals in a visual manner by making use of sketches, photographs, drawings, etc. However, in a previous study conducted in the Sedibeng District Municipality (SDM) (Van Wyk 2007:78), it was found that the most prominent skill that fashion entrepreneurs felt they needed, but lacked, is that of fashion drawing. Of the total sample population, 19% indicated that they do not possess fashion drawing skills. Although this is not a significantly high number, it is important to note that 66% of the mentioned study’s respondents had obtained qualifications from tertiary institutions (Van Wyk 2007:77), which would in all probability have included a fashion drawing curriculum. The lack of drawing skills could be problematic, as this lack relates to client satisfaction which, in turn, promotes the success of entrepreneurial endeavours (Burns & Bryant 2002:42). To address this, the current study was aimed at determining the level, nature and type of fashion drawing applied by fashion entrepreneurs with no formal fashion-related training (FEWNFFRT)1 within the Emfuleni Local Municipality (ELM). This ascertainment was completed in terms, specifically, of the following: the use of fashion sketches to visually communicate the design of the garment to the client; the challenges experienced by the fashion entrepreneurs when communicating an idea or design to a client; and the need for training in fashion drawing as a means of visual communication. A quantitative, non-experimental needs assessment was conducted among a group of FEWNFFRT within the ELM. It is important for the reader to note that this specific research study formed part of a larger study, in which the data was gathered in a joint manner with another researcher (whose study focussed on the business skills training needs for FEWNFFRT in the ELM). To clarify, data was collected and analysed together, but the interpretation and application of the data differed due to different research questions, focus and context. Therefore, while the same data was gathered and used in conjunction with another researcher, it should be noted that this study followed a unique angle. The reason for the joint data collection was dictated by the specific constraint of the study in terms of the specific inclusion criteria to which the sample population had to adhere. Interviewer-administered questionnaires were employed in order to gather data from respondents. This type of data collection tool was seen as the most appropriate for the collection of data for this study, as it was conducted in a verbal manner and allowed the interviewer to explain questions and instruction to the respondents in cases where questions were in any way unclear or the respondents were uncertain. This in turn ensured a higher response rate and enhanced the quality of the data gathered. Insight gained from this study aided in generating a new understanding of the fashion drawing skills training needs of fashion entrepreneurs in the ELM region, which may guide future research aimed at developing training programs, materials and interventions with regard to fashion drawing skills.

Das praxisorientierte Forschungsprojekt widmet sich den Grenzen und Potenzialen der Wiederaufarbeitung von Bekleidung – einer Nischenlösung der Circular Economy. Im Mittelpunkt der Forschungsarbeit steht die Frage, wie die Wiederverwertung von Abfallmaterialien aus der Textilindustrie als Teilflächen mit Hilfe von digitalen Technologien nach-haltig und effektiv gestaltet werden kann. Zudem wird erforscht, welche damit verbundenen ästhetischen Potenziale für den Entwurf neuer Bekleidung entstehen.

This licentiate thesis presents and discusses experimental explorations in search for new methods of form-thinking within the knitwear design process. The position of textile knitting techniques is somewhat ambiguous. This is because they are not only concerned with creating the textile material, but also with the form of the garment as these two are created in the same process. Consequently, the common perception of form and material as two separate design parameters can be questioned when it comes to knitting. Instead, we may view it as a design process that has a single design parameter; a design process in which the notion of form provides the conceptual foundation. Through conducting a series of design experiments using knitting and crochet techniques, the notion of form was explored from the perspective of the way in which we make a garment. The outcome of the experiments showed that there are possibilities for development of alternative working methods in knitwear design by viewing form in terms of topological invariants rather than as abstract geometrical silhouettes. If such a notion, i.e. a notion of a more concrete geometry, were to be implemented in the design process for knitwear, it would provide another link between action and expression that could deepen our understanding of the design potential of knitting techniques and provide the field with new expressions and gestalts.

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