[pt] As novas tecnologias trazem novos paradigmas para o design de adornos pessoais. Apesar da sua adoção, essas tecnologias são comumente empregadas para executar as mesmas formas de adornos produzidas em banca de ourives, portanto a inovação pode ficar limitada aos processos de fabricação. A tendência à virtualização do mundo físico também impõe novos desafios ao design de adornos. Esta pesquisa tem como objetivo trazer reflexões para o design de adornos sobre como as novas tecnologias podem contribuir para dar sentidos inovadores aos produtos. Para isso, apresenta e discute características específicas do design de adornos, assim mostrando o paradigma do emprego dessas tecnologias. Posto isso, delimita o escopo das novas tecnologias pertinentes à pesquisa, expondo seus efeitos e impactos no design de adornos. Com base em uma pesquisa documental, mostra o potencial expressivo dessas tecnologias através da seleção de casos. A seguir, através de uma revisão bibliográfica, analisa a mediação que o design pode fazer entre adornos pessoais e novas tecnologias. Em conjunto à contextualização, foram realizadas atividades de experimentação em realidade virtual, digitalização tridimensional e design computacional, que buscaram explorar o potencial dessas tecnologias de forma inovadora através do design. Os experimentos desenvolvidos demonstraram aspectos específicos das novas tecnologias abordadas e, em conjunto, esses procedimentos expuseram a relação entre elas e o processo de inovação de significados no design de adornos. / [en] New technologies bring new paradigms for jewelry design. Despite their adoption, these technologies are commonly used to create the same styles of jewelry produced by hand by goldsmiths, so innovation may be limited to manufacturing processes. The shift towards virtualization of the physical world also poses new challenges to jewelry design. This research aims to reflect on how new technologies in jewelry design can give innovative meanings to products. For this, it presents and discusses specific characteristics of jewelry design, thus showing the paradigm of the use of these technologies. That said, it delimits the scope of new technologies relevant to this research, exposing their effects and impacts on jewelry design. Based on documentary research, a selection of cases is made to show the expressive potential of these technologies. Then, through a literature review, it analyzes the mediation that design can make between jewelry and new technologies. Along with the contextualization, experimentation activities in virtual reality, 3D scanning and computational design were carried out, seeking to explore the potential of these technologies through design in an innovative way. The experiments demonstrated specific aspects of the new technologies addressed in this research and also exposed the relationship between them and the process of innovation of meanings in jewelry design.

No description available.

Dual energy X-ray absorptiometry (DXA) has been well established in both clinical and research settings for measurement of bone mineral density (BMD), and is becoming more widely utilized for assessment of body composition. Reliability and validity are essential factors in both applications of this technique; however, neither have been confirmed for the QDR-4500A DXA at Virginia Tech. Therefore, measurements of the whole body (WB), lumbar spine (LS), total proximal femur (TPF) and total forearm (TF) were made in a group of young-adult males and females at two time-points, 5-7 days apart. Significant differences were not found in BMD (g/cm2) at these body sites with repeated measurements by DXA. Furthermore, measures of percent body fat (%BF), lean body mass (LBM), and fat mass (FM) by DXA were reliable. Validity of %BF by DXA was assessed from comparison to single-frequency bioelectrical impedance analysis (BIA). Significant differences were not found in measures of %BF by DXA and BIA. A second study investigated the reliability and validity of the QDR-4500A DXA in measurements of distal tibia (DT) BMD. Significant differences were not found between repeated measurements. Validity was established by a significant correlation between WB BMD and DT BMD. A third study examined the influence of navel jewelry on the accuracy of LS DXA measurements. Repeated measurements with a spine phantom revealed that both a navel ring and a barbell produced significantly greater measures of LS BMD compared to the spine phantom alone. Manual correction of navel jewelry did not eliminate BMD inaccuracies. Data from these studies confirmed that the QDR-4500A DXA at Virginia Tech was a reliable and valid device in measurement of WB, LS, TPF, TF and DT BMD, as well as %BF, LBM, and FM. In addition, effects of navel jewelry on LS BMD have been recognized. Further studies investigating the reliability and validity of DT BMD measures as well as effects of different types, gauges, and shapes of body jewelry on BMD measures in human subjects are warranted. / Master of Science

В работе обобщены особенности адаптации рекламы международных брендов в Китае и обоснован выбор стратегий для успешной локализации на китайском рынке рекламы российских ювелирных брендов. В ходе исследования были выявлены ключевые стратегии успешной адаптации иностранных брендов на китайском рынке, такие как культурная чувствительность, адаптация продукта к потребительским предпочтениям, а также использование цифровых технологий и социальных сетей для продвижения бренда. На основе полученных данных предложен проект рекламного продвижения на рынке Китая российского ювелирного бренда Avgust. / The paper summarizes the features of the adaptation of advertising of international brands in China and justifies the choice of strategies for successful localization of advertising of Russian jewelry brands in the Chinese market. The study identified key strategies for the successful adaptation of foreign brands in the Chinese market, such as cultural sensitivity, product adaptation to consumer preferences, as well as the use of digital technologies and social networks to promote the brand. Based on the data obtained, a project of advertising promotion of the Russian jewelry brand Avgust in the Chinese market is proposed.

Thesis (MA (VA)(Visual Arts. Jewellery Design))--University of Stellenbosch, 2006. / In this thesis I concern myself with a rather particular process of making jewellery – a creative process which epitomises repetitive, labour-intensive and timeconsuming actions, results in an “optimal” experience (Csikszentmihalyi 1990) and leads to meticulous and refined products. In dealing with this process I present its conceptual framework which I understand as a sequence of physical, mental and emotional elements through which I move from fascination (the initiating factor of the process) to product (a concrete and legitimising by-product of the process). As I progress from fascination to product, I move through the distinct, yet interwoven stages of ideation, planning and preparation, production, meditation, incubation and insight. These stages, together with fascination and product, constitute a continuous, three-dimensional spiralling form which characterizes the conceptual structure of my process. Within that conceptual structure, I differentiate between the phase of decisionmaking and the “experiential” phase (here signifying “to experience”). The former phase comprises the stages of ideation, planning and preparation, and production; whereas the latter phase stretches over the stages of production, meditation, incubation and insight. I define decision-making as a sequential thought-process and distinguish between an open-ended and a highly restricted or defined type of decision-making. The open-ended type takes the form of free experimentation and dominates the stage of ideation, leading to those ideas which I choose to translate into concrete jewellerypieces. As I move from ideation to planning and preparation, and subsequently to production in developing and implementing my idea, I increasingly make use of the restricted type of decision-making in the form of relying on previously accumulated knowledge and experience. Understanding decision-making as “a logical process leading to a conclusion” (Loy 1988:146), I interpret decision-making in general, and the restricted type in particular, in terms of the philosophical notion of dual thoughtprocesses, based on the causally and sequentially linked elements of decision-making. As the stage of production progresses, the dual thought-processes of decisionmaking are increasingly relegated to my sub-conscious. Consequently, my consciousness is free to engage in what I refer to as meditation, as a result of which I move into the experiential phase of my process. My meditative state of mind can be ascribed to non-dual, spontaneous and random thought-processes which bring with an atmosphere of incubation out of which insights arise. As a result of my non-dual mind-set I experience both my thinking and my acting during meditation as non-dual, accumulating or resulting in an exhilarating, overtly positive, worthwhile and fulfilling experience. Even though this experience acts as a motivation for engaging in the process and is therefore of enormous significance, the tangible product of the process does serve a legitimizing function as it endows my almost excessively time-consuming and labour-intensive acts with purpose. However, as a result of the input of enormous amounts of personal energy over prolonged time-spans my process leads to an intimate relationship between my products and me, causing a dilemma and paradox as I struggle to let go of my jewellery-pieces.

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Text in English / Ancient Egyptian distinctive headdresses made from precious or semi-precious materials date to prehistoric times, indicating a growing sense of individuality and hierarchy. Women’s headdresses were indicators of rulership, divinity, social status, cultic affiliation and wealth. Visual evidence indicates that female identity was emphasised by external and outward appearance and headdresses in the form of diadems followed recognised stylistic dictates throughout the Dynastic Period. The floral and faunal motifs used in the embellishment were believed to have protective amuletic and magical powers. Although a considerable amount of investigation has been undertaken into the use of materials and techniques used in the manufacture of diadems, the incorporation of symbolism and iconography of these gendered artefacts as a means of interpreting visual messages and self-expression has largely been unexplored. The study has been limited to well-provenanced, extant Old, Middle and New Kingdom diadems housed in various museums worldwide. / Old Testament and Ancient Near Eastern Studies / M.A. (Ancient Near Eastern Studies)

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El propósito de esta investigación es analizar las características de una posible alianza estratégica entre la industria hotelera y joyeros artesanales de Cusco, que garantice el beneficio de ambas partes y sea sostenible en el tiempo. Se utilizó una metodología cualitativa con entrevistas a profundidad realizadas a los gestores de la industria hotelera y a joyeros artesanales, de la ciudad de Cusco, y se usó la revisión de fuentes académicas secundarias. La investigación tuvo como objetivo establecer cómo los hoteles buscan alianzas con comunidades de la zona a fin de apoyar el desarrollo local. Esta temática no ha sido previamente estudiada en el ámbito hotelero y tampoco existen estudios académicos específicos para el Perú. Por lo que los resultados alcanzados, son una contribución al conocimiento para aquellos organismos que tengan interés en el tema y pudieran implementar un nuevo valor a sus negocios. De la misma manera, es útil para los joyeros artesanales pues significa una manera de reinventarse. Finalmente, se identificó que los gestores hoteleros y joyeros, se encuentran interesados ​​en realizar una alianza estratégica, asimismo, ven como un valor agregado el acercamiento del huésped con las comunidades y, de esta manera, brindar conocimiento de la cultura cusqueña. Por el lado de los joyeros, lo ven como un ingreso que puede ser recurrente, además de tener mayor alcance con sus productos. / The purpose of this research is to analyze the characteristics of a possible strategic alliance between the hotel industry and handcraft jewelers of Cusco, which guarantees the benefit of both parties and its sustainability over time. A qualitative methodology was used with in-depth interviews with managers of the hotel industry and handcraft jewelers, both from the city of Cusco, and also a review of bibliographical references from academic sources. The objective of the research was establishing how hotels seek alliances with communities in the area in order to support local development. This topic has not been previously studied in the hotel industry and there are no specific academic studies for Peru, so the results achieved are a contribution of knowledge for those public and private organizations that are interested in the topic and could implement a new value to their businesses. Likewise, it is useful for handcraft jewelers as the alliance represents a new way of reinventing themselves. Finally, it was identified that hotel managers and jewelers are interested in making a strategic alliance, on the other hand, it can be seen as an added value for the guests to have an approach with the communities and Cusco’s culture. On the other hand, for the jewelers, it can be seen as an income that can become recurrent and also a way of having greater recognition of their products. / Tesis

La presente investigación tiene como objetivo determinar cómo se relacionan tres herramientas competitivas: La estrategia de lugar, el producto de alta calidad y la marca de producto, con el desempeño exportador del sector de joyería de plata en el Perú. Este estudio se elaboró con base en el método científico, utilizando un diseño cualitativo descriptivo de tipo teoría fundamentada. La búsqueda de antecedentes epistemológicos proviene de fuentes confiables e indexadas. La base teórica está desarrollada a partir de dos teorías: ventaja competitiva y las teorías novísimas de comercio internacional (modelo integrado de empresas heterogéneas). La realidad problemática expone los fundamentos para el planteamiento del problema. La población: 75 empresas exportadoras (2015-2019) y 6,670 artesanos. Se aplicaron cuestionarios de carácter descriptivo a 7 artesanos y 10 entrevistas en profundidad a los actores clave del sector, las mismas que fueron procesadas a través del software Atlas.ti®. La discusión de resultados se desarrolla a través de la relación entre los antecedentes, el análisis de producto y los resultados de entrevistas. Los resultados demuestran que, a mayor desarrollo de las herramientas competitivas, mayor participación en exportaciones de joyería de plata; esto aplica tanto entre los países como entre las empresas. El Perú tiene diversas dificultades para el desarrollo de las herramientas competitivas. Esta investigación pretende contribuir al interés y desarrollo de futuras investigaciones donde se desarrollen otras herramientas competitivas relevantes; además de compartir la información con todos aquellos interesados en plantear o ejecutar estrategias para lograr avances en el sector joyero del Perú y sus exportaciones. / The objective of this research is to determine how 3 competitive tools: place strategy, high quality product and product brand are related with the export performance of the silver jewelry sector in Peru. The elaboration of this study was carried out based on the scientific method, using a qualitative descriptive design of grounded theory type. It began with the search for epistemological antecedents through bibliographic databases from trusted and indexed sources. The theoretical basis of this research is developed from the theory of competitive advantage and the new theory of international trade (integrated model of heterogeneous companies). The problematic reality sets out the foundations for posing the problem. The population is made up of 75 exporting companies and 6,670 artisans. Descriptive questionnaires were conducted with 7 artisans and 10 in-depth interviews were realized with key players in the sector (companies, unions, and government institutions). This information was processed through the Atlas.ti® software. The discussion of results is developed by relating antecedents, product analysis and the results of interviews. The results show that, the greater the development of competitive tools, the greater the participation in silver jewelry exports; this applies both between countries and between companies. Peru has various difficulties in developing competitive tools. This research aims to contribute to the interest and development of future research where another relevant competitive tools are developed; in addition to sharing information with all those interested in proposing and / or executing strategies to achieve progress in the Peruvian jewelry sector and its exports. / Tesis